Car Shaking Problems

no--bearings and tires are the most likely cause of roaring--esp if it gets louder as you roll faster

White smoke = Coolant entering the combustion chamber. STOP driving this car until this is repaired or you will destroy this engine.

Black Smoke = Overly rich fuel/air mixture. Too much fuel not enough air. STOP driving until this is repaired or you will ruin the converter and O2 sensor and possible do other damage.

Blue Smoke = Engine is burning oil. Worn rings is normally the cause.

I have a 1996 Toyota Tacoma, V-6 with 204,000 miles. It ran fine when I bought it but because of the mileage, I decided to do-it-yourself tune up. I bought a set of wires, a set of plus (Denso) and a PVC valve and did the tune up myself. I'm not a mechanic but I have done it before.

I drove the truck up to Northern Michigan for a deer archery hunting trip and it ran fine til I when drove back. As soon as I hit 50 mph, the truck jerks continuously til it hits about 60 mph then it ran fine again. Also, if and when I stopped at an intersection or a stop sign, as soon as I hit the gas pedal, the engine hesitate before it picks up speed.

I consulted with two of my auto mechanic friends and they both agreed that it must be either the wires or the plugs or both. They suggested that I need to first, switch back with the old wires and see how it runs. If it doesn't help then I need to switch back with the old plugs and see if it works.

I didn't have much time so I just went to a Toyota dealer and bought everything new from them. Did the whole thing again and now it runs better than it was before. I hope this help.

Sounds like it could be a bad alternator, but I can't be sure based only on the question.

Can also be a loose alternator drive belt.

A bad wheel hub searing can cause vibration on your steering. Loose or broken steering and suspension components can cause vibrations when accelerating, decelerating or changes in speed. Worn tie rod bushings, damaged struts or shocks are common causes of vibration. Drivetrain problems, such as a bad wheel bearing, damaged CV-joint (front-wheel-drive cars), a bent or imbalanced driveshaft (rear-wheel-drive cars) or missing chassis/drivetrain damper weights are all examples of speed-sensitive vibrations.

The code scanner is reading a P1450 on my frod expedition? what would be the problem

Begin by removing the tire and wheel from your 2000 Mitsubishi. Remove the end of the axle. Remove the wheel bearing nuts. Remove the axle seal and the wheel bearing. Reverse the process to install your new wheel bearing. It will take a novice mechanic approximately 2 hours to complete the job.

It could be 1 or 2 things, or a combo of both. First of all a tune-up is defineately needed. Plugs, wires, dist. cap if you have one, and make sure the timing is set properly. A clogged fuel filter will make it run rough or shake when starting out. And you should check your motor mounts. Broken or badly worn out mounts will cause engine vibration upon acc. or take off.

Mark H.

Hi, It sounds like the u-joints are bad on drive shaft.

Your wheels could be out of alignment; however, it is probably your wheels are out of balance. I would have this checked and repaired, if it is not fixed this will cause your tires too wear faster.

Worn Parts like a radius arm bushing , wheel bearings , or even upper or lower ball joints can cause a shaking in your front end.

check around on the throttle body right before the the intake runners

Brake linings worn?

Wheel bearing?

The engine of a Chevy Trailblazer may begin shaking when idle if there is insufficient fuel reaching it. This can be caused by a clogged fuel filter or dirty fuel injectors.

for the case of the side of the car: if the side doors are crumple then the people in the car would be crash because there is not much space for the crumble zone to absord the force and redistribute. also, if the roof of the car is crumple, then when the car collapses , people in the car will be crash. we want the collision force to be far away from the passengers , and the way that the crumble zone work is when the car hit something, the crumble zone reduces the initial force of the crash, and they redistribute the force before it reaches the vehicle's occupants.

hope this kind like give you the idea,

Yes, either can cause a shake while driving.

Follow the wires from the spark plugs and they will go to the distributor unless the engine does not have one and has a coil pack.

First, it's very dangerous to operate an engine when fuel is leaking the way you describe.

Repair the leak and the rest of the problems will probably go away. The leak could be resulting in either a flooding condition or low fuel pressure depending on what's going on. Either way, repair the problem before you have more serious issues to deal with.

DON'T DRIVE IT UNTIL IT'S REPAIRED!!!

Intake or exhaust manifold? It can be a $40 to four hundred dollar repair but it all depends on the vehicle and year model and and how easy it is to get to the bolts of the manifold or time required to remove other parts to get to the manifold. Most all service shops have a flat rate repair estimate guide and can tell you that price with a simple phone call. Those prices are a high side price. An honest shop will charge you less if the repair takes less time and the max if it turns sour.

What kind of car is is? When it jerk while shutting off, do you turn the key off and it sits there chugging for a second before stopping?

Freon (R12) is a refrigerant that started being phased out in the early 90s. The last I knew it was selling for about $50.00 a pound and a car usually takes about 2 pounds. So a simple evacuation, then recharge may cost about $150.00. This however probably wouldn't include diagnosis of the reason why it needs recharging in the first place (ie a leak) so replacing alone will most likely lead to another trip to the garage to charge it and actually find the leak. If the car is 1992 or newer it will almost definitely be equipt with the new refrigerant R134 which costs about $18.00 a pound making the repair that much cheaper. Also if it is equipt with an R12 system the best recomendation is to have it retrofitted to R134. A simple and fairly inexpensive job.

Switch the front wheels to the rear and try it; if the vibration has changed at all you have a tire/wheel problem. It is not uncommon for a shop to miss this problem. Most vibrations like yours ARE tire/whhel problems. sounds like u-joints

make sure that the tires are all properly inflated. If they are, then you may need to have the front end aligned.

More than likely your tires are out of balance. Have your tires rotated and balanced. Make sure they check for a bent wheel.