Car Sounds

Try this simple test: 1. Obtain disc containing mp3 files. 2. Insert disc into CD player of your CR-V. 3. Does it play the files? If so, the answer to this question is "yes". Alternatively, look up the car on Honda's website and find out a bit more about the in-car entertainment options available there. Or you could even phone up your local Honda dealer and ask them! Remember "speaking to people"? That's what we used to do before the internet.

They came with little tools to release them from the frame, if you don't have then you can slide something flat and thin into either side and do the same thing, once released it will slide forward.

RTM: http://www.directedstore.com/manuals/474P.pdf

The knocking sound could be the doors of the vents closing when you turn it off,they are controlled by vacume.Or it could be the plastic making the sound due to change in temperature. If it is a early to mid 90's Chevy it is most likely the actuator solenoid that controls the recirc or fresh air. If it is it will knock for about a minute and 30 seconds when you start the vehicle and about the same wheen you turn it off.

Check front end components for excessive wear and looseness Tie rod ends Idler arm Ball Joints Drag link Pitman arm

If the "grinding noise" is present while cornering left and all but disappears when cornering right, my experience* says it's your right rear wheel bearings needing replaced.

* My '96 did the exact same thing

another thing to check is my exhaust pipe would rub the rear suspension on the passengers side and make an awful noise only when turning left and it would be worse with more weight in the car

Drive Shaft Noises: When operating a vehicle to verify a complaint. Keep in mind that other components could be at fault. A worn wheel bearing, squeaking spring, defective tire, transmission, or differential troubles could be at fault. You must use your knowledge of each system to detect which component is causing the trouble. Drive shaft noises are usually caused by worn U- joints, slip joint wear, or a faulty center support bearing. Drive shaft noises and possible causes are as follows: · Grinding and squeaking from the drive shaft is frequently caused by worn universal joints. The joints become dry, causing the rollers to wear. The unlubricated, damaged rollers then produce a grinding or squeaking sound, as they operate on the scored cap and cross surfaces. · A clunking sound, when going from acceleration to deceleration or deceleration to acceleration, may be caused by slip yoke problems. The splines may be worn. The yoke transmission extension housing bushing may also be worn. This will let the yoke move up and down with changes in drive line torque. An excessively worn U-joint or differential problem can also cause a similar noise. · A whining sound from the drive shaft is sometimes caused by a dry, worn center support bearing. Since this bearing makes complete revolutions. it will make a different sound than a bad universal joint. A high pitched. More constant, whine will usually come from a faulty center support bearing. Any other abnormal sound should be traced using your knowledge of mechanics. A stethoscope and the vehicles service manual troubleshooting chart.

Knocking is caused by preignition, where the heat in the cylinder causes the gas to ignite before the spark plug does. The noise could also be piston slap, which is caused by a worn cylinder wall. Try using a higher octane/grade gas and see if the noise goes away.

In certain engines like the Malibu 3.1 liter and others, the knocking is caused by a piston rocking in the cylinder. This is called piston slap. It is a damaging condition, but seems to be considered "normal" by GM.

bad wheeling bearing

THE REAR STRUTS HAVE NYLON BUSHINGS WHERE THEY MOUNT TO THE FRAME, AFTER A FEW YEARS THE NYLON HOLES WHERE THE BOLT GOES THROUGH GET WORN OUT AND THE STRUTS START SLAPPING UPK AND DOWN WHEN HITTING ROUGH ROADS. MINE WERE DOING THE SAME THING, I REPLACED THE STRUTS AND THAT TOOK CARE OF THE PROBLEM. struts mine did the same thing Answer I had this problem on my '98, I replaced the struts but that did not take care of the problem, what it ended up being was the rear sway bar mounts had been worn and loosened enough to create this problem.

ticking noise is usually "lifter noise". if this noise increases in speed when accelerating then it is "lifter noise". just change your oil.and or maitain proper oil level.try using a medium to thick oil 20/30 20/50 , there is a product call lucas which also helps your oil lubricate the engines moving parts easier. i have use it, and it works , it takes a few miles but it works.

Ok a BOV is a device "down the line" after the turbo to release air pressure in the intake after it reaches a predetermined value. There is several different types and ways they can be hooked up but the sequential BOV is valve type BOV with a primary and a secondary valve that helps with keeping the condition better and helps with sending out just "enough" air to make sure you don't run super rich.

Your Belt needs tightening also the cold weather makes the belt which is out of rubber stiff!! so it does not grip with its full power!! You can give it a tight you self or go to the next garage it wont cost much

Hope that helps mate

Worn ball joints?

Yes

The most easy way is to get a replacement form the junk yard. Yhat said i will admit I was heck bent on fixing mine so the mileage would be right. Mine would tick and in time the speed would jump. I tried replacing and lubricating the cable but it was in the speedomometer itself as it turned out.

So here is what I did and it has lasted as a "fix" for 2 years and 30,000 miles now. I removed the intrument cluster and then removed the spedomometer itself from the cluster. Its pretty straight forward on diassembly. I then filled a bowl almost full ot the rim with marvel mystery oil. I submerged the speedometer works from inotthe bowl butdid not let the face of the unit go under the oil. the face plate of the speedomemeter worked well in making this possible. I let the unit sit over night in the oil. I reassembeled it being careful not to get the oil on the faceplate as it would make the speeomometer look diffrent than the matte black finish on the rest of the cluster. It has worked well with the only "hindsight" remark being that the oil did weep back onto the faceplate in about 3/4 of a year time. Maybe next time I should shake the speedometer out a bit better to remove excess oil. But so far its working fine at 216,000 miles so until it fails I amhappy with the idea..

a bad cv joint. on front wheel drive cars, it may be the CV joint...try a free brake inspection at a chain brake shop, and while they're checking it for free and no obligation, ask the mechanics to take a peek at your CV joints and boots..:) also everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and a professional shop manual should be available at your local library in the reference section, make copies of the appropriate pages, and good luck:)

Any abnormal noise in the transmission is bad - some noises are worse than others. However, you didn't post enough information to be more specific than that. Is it a manual or automatic? Does it make noise shifting into 3rd gear, shifting out of 3rd gear or when driving in third gear? Under load and coasting or just under load ... or just coasting? All the time, or just intermittently?

possibly a loose belt, or a worn belt try sprying some belt dressing on it, if it stops replace your belts soon. belt dressing is a baind aid not a cure.

If it is a front wheel drive vehicle it could be a bad CV joint. In a rear wheel drive car it could be a bad universal joint.

the amp wont work.Check the power fuse first.If this is ok, there is generally another fuse inside the amp that will need checking

Noises are impossible to correctly diagnoise unless you hear them. TAke it to a good diagnoistition.

well that is what you call backfirewich is caused by alot of things hole in exaust to to much fuel going through but more than likely it sounds like a timing prob!!! so check those sources first.....

Power Steering?