Car Sounds

Is the knock sensor hooked up ? ( located behind the intake manifold, passenger side on top of the block ( it screws into the block and has a 2 wire plug on it), did you brake in the motor ? Does it only knock at the rpm you said ? Only when cold ?

They could, yes.

A resonator is a kind of "mini-muffler" placed behind the muffler in the exhaust. They were used to dampen a different frequency than the mufflers, thereby making the exhaust note more tolerable. Road Rage can be caused by the exhaust tone of your car. No kidding. There seems to be some range humans don't like.

rear differential got lube? rear wheel bearings?

Three chimes in a Subaru typically indicate a warning related to the vehicle's system or settings, such as an open door or a seatbelt reminder. It serves as an alert to the driver that attention is needed for safety or operational reasons. Always consult the owner's manual for specific meanings related to your model and year for accurate information.

If it's coming from the engine, it's a belt problem. One of your accessories might be out of alignment, or your belt could be going bad.

its not spossed too...you may need to balance your tires

Yes, a rotten ball bearing can cause a wheel to seize up very quickly

Low coolant? Cooling system airbound?

Not at all common, in fact very uncommon.

That could be a variety of things - could be overheated (radiator) could have blown a gasket (oil) could have a hose that is off or loose.

Best to get it checked.

Black smoke-you are burning oil, engine is worn out. White smoke-you probably have a blown head gasket. Good luck with either one, both are expensive to repair. The above answer is only partially correct. Black smoke is not oil burning. Black smoke is an overly rich fuel mixture. Blue smoke is burning oil and white smoke is coolant in the combustion chamber.

its either the the left or right drive axle. when the cv joints get worn or dry the click around corners due to the cv joint hinging and moving more during turns. when driving straight the cv joints dont move alot. in a front wheel drive vechicle the front tires need to drive you forward, but they also have to turn, so the driveshafts / axles need 2 cv joints per axle. change your bad axle and you will be noiseless

Depends on the terrain you are driving in if roads are bumpy are potholed it has to be higher than if the roads are smooth with no bumps.

The right-turn clicking sound you hear is most likely a result of worn or damaged outer CV joints. A quick way to test this is to drive the car in reverse while cranking the wheel to one side

could be a lifter sticking

The back box may be more quite, if a smaller one is installed. It may also be quieter if there was a bend added to it.Ê

More info:

Sound appears when the steering wheel is held in specific positions and the car is accelerated (sweet spots - so much as 5 degrees clockwise, 30 degrees, etc.) but still persists (for a few seconds) if the wheel is held in the sweet spot and there is no acceleration.

Can 'feel' the car kind of straining when this occurs relative to when it's not there, like when turning left.

There is *no* sound / creaking if the car is parked, only when in motion.

The sound is not brake-related squealing. It's like a rusty spring mattress being jumped on.

It is not power steering fluid related insofar as cranking the wheel to either side does not produce the knocking sound.

Doesn't seem brake related, as a brake inspection was performed, quite literally, today.

din

CHECK YOUR LUG NUTS

You need to be more specific as to where the noise or coming from before that question can be answered. Now, stay away from the fan and moving parts and do not do this with loose clothing.

This test is done with the engine running. Do not perform with loose clothing and stay away from moving parts like fan and belts/pulleys.

Take a long metal rod, like a screwdriver with no handle and sleeve a piece of vacuum line over it. Take the other end of the vacuum line and lay it across the palm of your hand, with the end by your thumb, and close your fist around it loosely. Place your thumb side of your fist against your ear and place the screwdriver on solid parts of engine until you locate the sound.

You also might have to place the screwdriver on the alternator, power steering pump and so on, being very careful to stay away from pulleys and belts... and that fan!

At early stages, a constant "tick" that gets quicker with acceleration but quiets down is most likely in the valve train... like a lifter... or LOW OIL! As the wear gets worse, the sound can also get louder with acceleration.

A "knocking" is most likely in the bottom end of the engine. Which would be connecting rods, worn piston pin/bore, etc.

Could also be spark arcing. Park it in a very dark area, leave it running and open the hood. Look around for spark. You shouldn't see any and DO NOT try and adjust wires while it is running. The voltage from a coil/coil pack can be as high as (average) 35,000 Volts. Probably just need new plug wires.

If the 4.0 overheats while performing these tests, it could also be the exhaust manifold is cracked and you are hearing the exhaust lifters. They are known to crack because of bad heat dissipation and often can be found broken in 4 places. There is no welding these and an OEM replacement would be foolish. Your best bet would be to replace it with an aftermarket header that is a direct bolt-in, from a company like JBA Headers. They can be found at CenturyPerformance.com and check places like eBay and Amazon.com after you have a part number for your vehicle. You also can try places like PriceMatch.com for deals. Sometimes companies will also have scratch and dent discounted parts. A dent might* be a concern if it is deep enough (like 1/2" on a 1.250" tube or 1" on a 2.875" tube), but scratches are no concern if it's not a show car.

Care must be taken when installing the header just as it would if installing an intake or exhaust manifold. The intake and exhaust manifold are removed and installed together. The bolts need to be torqued in three steps... and in a sequence. Torque on the intake bolts are different than that on the exhaust through all stages. The installation information can be found in almost any Repair/Service Manual, even at the library (can be found online at "modern" libraries) where you can photocopy the needed pages to take home and get greasy. Clean and apply anti-seize to the bolt/stud threads and make sure you note where each bolt/stud went and where each washer went, along with which direction each washer was in. IIRC, the intake washers are convex in shape. They must be reinstalled in the correct manner. This paragraph is very important. If you just bolt it down without sequencing and without a correct torque wrench, warpage and/or breakage will occur. No matter what an unedumacated shade-tree/back-alley mechanic says (no offense to educated ones).

as a former Toyota technician, i saw some of these "whistlers". Try changing the PCV valve with a new one from Toyota.

if that doesnt work (it probably wont) try removing the spars on the roof rack (if equipt). I see this from time to time and it will drive you crazy! also make sure the rear windows are completely shut.

if its a front wheel drive vehicle then it could be the axels

Try this simple test: 1. Obtain disc containing mp3 files. 2. Insert disc into CD player of your CR-V. 3. Does it play the files? If so, the answer to this question is "yes". Alternatively, look up the car on Honda's website and find out a bit more about the in-car entertainment options available there. Or you could even phone up your local Honda dealer and ask them! Remember "speaking to people"? That's what we used to do before the internet.

They came with little tools to release them from the frame, if you don't have then you can slide something flat and thin into either side and do the same thing, once released it will slide forward.