Car Stalling Problems

open the hatch and look on the inside of the door jamb there should be 2 screws or 3 screws remove those and pull the light out.

yes, a muffler is designed along with exahust pipe to create proper amount of back pressure

i have the same problem with the same car i had my erg valve changed and the problem went away for a year untill now its happening again always when i slow down in a queue of traffic typical !

A few more questions before I can give you a better answer -

a. does your car have fuel injection or a carburetor? (If you aren't sure: do you have to warm it up and or pump the gas to start it? If so, it's got a carburetor.)

b. Under what conditions do you have the problem? (Walk me thru a typical example - i.e. car cold/hot ... do you have trouble starting or restarting ... so forth)

c. if your car is carburated, it might be out of adjustment or dirty. If it's fuel injected, it may be as simple as dirty injectors or a small sensor bad/disconnected. You may need an engine diagnostic check.

Frequently in older vehicles, high humidity or rainy weather can cause poor performance, usually because of a problem in the ignition system. Moisture and condensation may be forming in the distributor. Also, the ignition (suppression) wires may be old and arcing from one cable to another, causing timing issues and misfire problems. That problem is aggravated by moisture and humidity.

The most common problem with these vehicles is fuel pump; you pump may be getting weak; I would have it tested.If it is the pump (getting hot then stopping to cool )it will progressively get worse.

No fuel, blocked fuel line or filter. A faulty airflow meter or map sensor, a blown head gasket, blown rings, blow by, incorrect fuel in tank IE: put petrol in diesel van. Sorry for rough answer but you didn't give much away in your question. The make, model or circumstance that van stopped working etc..

Probably a senor: MAP, MAF, IAC, pr TPS

Letting the clutch go to quickly

bad gas can cause that, or water in the gas

It could have run out of fuel

Could be the oxygen sensor.

air in the lines, bad fuel, dirty air filter, need more info to properly troubleshoot

Fuel pump failure from defective pump, blown fuse, or defective fuel pump relay. Clogged fuel filter, catalytic converter, bad alternator, and other electrical problems along with a bad emission sensor. Of course, you could also be out of gasoline.

Just spray some carburetor cleaner into the carburetor and then let the car idle for a bit.

In addition to the above answer add a can of Seafoam or Techron fuel system cleaner to a full tank of fuel once each year.

1) bad IAC

2) filthy throttle body

3) idle learn reset (with computer or after battery disconnect) relearn - clean throttle body, then start and use accelerator pedal to keep running

4) vacuum leak

5) bad ECT sensor reading hotter than actual

6) excessively retarded ignition timing

If it has a Electronic fuel injection system that is within the intake manifold, the likely cause is an interal leak in a fuel line. Also there is the possibility of a leaking fuel pressure regulator located within the intake. If you smell Gas, this is the route to take. Other parts can cause this as well, however they usually throw a code and your check engine light will light up. o2 or oxygen sensor, and map sensor. Either can cause a bad idle and not appear to cause the engine to perform well in acceleration. Wish i was a little more familiar with the 3000. Good luck.

if yours is a manual make sure the clutch is not dragging, if its not and your problem is purely at idle look for any vacuum leaks(cracked /missing hoses) you can do this by spraying carb cleaner around the intake fittings while the motor is running, if a leak is present the carb cleaner will in-richen the fuel mixture and the idle wis raise. if you sprayed evrey fitting and havent found a leak then its time to look in to what controls the motors fuel.

MAP

TSP

AIC

these three components work together to create the ideal fuel to air ratio for the motor in different conditions.

first pull off the air in take hose, be sure the butterfly valve moves freely, clean area with the leftover carb cleaner. now that you have located the butterfly valve find the AIC (air idle control ) is bolted just below the butterfly valve. over time carbon and other foren objects clog and block that valve, remove and cleane with carb cleaner, re install the ICA and most of the time this is the solution

good luck

-Michael

Could be the alternator is not charing correctly.

I had a similar problem with my Park Ave. It turned out to be the crank sensor. The cam sensor can cause the same problem. Both are needed by the computer to fire at the correct time. Have the error code checked to see if that is the problem.

It checks many things, connections, belt, and voltage regulator. I have never checked one with a load test. On a modern car or truck, never ever disconnect the battery from the alternator with the motor running to check the alternator. It can burnup a lot of electronics instantly.

The crank position sensor is located on the front of the engine, behind the lower crank pulleys.

It depends on what you mean be stall. If you can hear the engine rev up like the trans isn't even in gear...it could be a few things. 1) You're low on trans fluid. And the trans is literally falling out of gear around turns or when you go up hill. 2) If you stomp the gas and it revs up then takes off...and you have an automatic trans your drive belt is going out. If you can take off fine in 1st gear (automatic only) then it is your drive belt. If it just started doing this get something called Lucas Transmission Additive. It will recondition the belt enough to make it driveable. If it's been going on a while, chances are good your trans is shot.

First off what kind of car is it? 1. try putting it in a low gear. 2 check your transmission fluid level it could be low. Camaro z28 5 speed. When it is under load as the revs increase it looses power? Exhaust?

I'm sure there are many reasons that are possible, off the top of my head, 1) Low on fuel, the tilt of the tank does not allow fuel to get to the engine. 2) If the car has a carburetor, the float and float needle might stick when the car is not on a flat surface. 3) Electrical short in ignition wires only when weight of car shifts forward or backward. (you don't say if you stop going up hill or down) 4) Movement of the drive train due to bad motor mounts causes the clutch to not disengage totally. 5) The car doesn't like you.

My 1992 Lexus Sc400 was doing that at stop lights or when stopped. It would stall completely and idol funny too. I had to replace the timing belt because of that. So check that and see if that is the problem. It cost me 700 dollars to replace the timing and water pump so it is not to expensive. Ever since I changed the timing I have gotten way better gas mileage too. Hope this helps.

Check your power cables from the battery, Take them off and clean them and inspect them closely for starters.

You can't, the fuel filter is a part of the sending unit and would require you remove the fuel pump.

I experienced this problem first hand, my error was that i used the wrong type of gasoline in the machine which caused it to shut off after several seconds while idling. Another thing to check is the spark plug because there can be significant carbon build up on it. I have a 4 stroke Makita weed eater by the way so i just had to remove the gas from the chamber and replace it with premium unleaded gasoline.