Car Stalling Problems

it turns out the exhaust rocker was broken, replaced it and now it runs fine.

It sits on top of the motor. The location is directly under the passengerside windshield wiper post. It has a hose feed out to the Left. If you believe your IAC is fouled and causing poor idle or no idle, you can verify the IAC valve is the culprit by giving it a few taps with an object. Because of it's location, a long screwdriver works best or even your lug wrench if you are stranded. Poke at it a few times to 'free it up'. Removing it and CLEANING it is also a viable option.

mine is under the bed towards the back of the frame. its a black box with a hose going to a sensor, and another to your gas tank.

A 95 Toyota Corolla engine that loses power when idling can have a number of different things wrong with it including clogged injectors, a dirty fuel filter, or fouled spark plugs. Performing a standard tune-up will often resolve this issue.

Does this happen when you come to a complete stop or while you are coming to a stop? Is this Truck Automatic or Standard? Brake booster could be something, Torque Converter Clutch Valve not disengaging(Automatic).

My MX3 1993 idle dropped to almost stalling point when I stepped on the brake. After replacing the batter this problem disappearred and has so for 2 months now. There was no indication i needed a battery when i was driving it daily,however after leaving it sit for 5 days when I went to start it there was little juice to fire it up. By replacing/disconnecting the battery it reset the computer and I have not had an issue since...worth a try. Chuck

This happened with my car, and I was told that it was either the mass air flow sensor or the crank angle sensor (inside the distributor). I had the mass air flow sensor replaced by a mechanic only to have the car die in the same fashion on my home from the shop, so I replaced the distributor myself. Car's been great since then. Your distributor takes the air from the air filter and the gas from your tank and mixes them together in the right portions to make your engine fire in the most optimum fashion, so when your distributor starts to die, the fuel/air mixture isn't correct and makes your car stall while idling and lack power while driving. your timing has a lot to do with the position of your distributor as well, so if you do this yourself, make sure you understand TDC and put the distributor back in the EXACT same position in which it came off the car. This problem could also have to do with your spark plugs so check the gaps and conditions of those before you replace anything.

BEWARE!!....BAD ANSWER ABOVE!!

A distributor has absolutely NOTHING to do with your air/fuel mixture!!..it controls the timing of the spark to each cylinder!!!

As for the original problem it could one of many things...ECM/TPS/IAC/CPS..fuel pump..fuel filter..etc..etc..

The first thing to do is to check it with a scanner to see if you have any codes set in the ECM and then go from there...Autozone or any number of parts stores will do this for free.

Maybe increase the idle speed - Spud

most likely fuel cap problem try replacing it, are there any codes set? (signaled by check engine light)

probably for boyscouts emergency preparedness right?

well honestly i don't think you can. maybe bring some tools to fix it?

me too lol thats what i was searching it for

There is a vacuum switch that controls an air gate that diverts the air flow to the proper outlet. Blowing air out the defroster is the default setting of the switch. Most common causes of this problem are vacuum leaks. Check the vacuum hose on the passenger side engine compartment first. It ususally leaks going through the fire wall. Regardless this problem is most often always the result of a leak somewhere in the vacuum system not the failure of the switch itself. If it is a diesel check for proper operation of the vacuum pump

My 2003 Geo Tracker also starts and runs great but shuts the fuel off when it gets hot while idling for about 10 minutes, for instance in heavy traffic, at stop lights, etc. My mechanics couldn't fix it, so I removed the thermostat so at least I could drive it until we found the problem. Any help is greatly appreciated.

there is a reason you should state vehicle year........asking part of a question only gets part of an answer

This happened to me on a 1986 cutlass 2.5. A wire was shorting out going to the map sensor and only did it in reverse. The bracket on the alternator had rubbed a hole and only grounded when the motor moved, when placed in reverse. I fixed it temporary with electrical tape.

Sounds like you have a headgasket problem, if your compression is strong is enough for it to run, your engine gets hot and the parts inside expand, creating a larger compression leak thus your vehicle is not capable of running and shuts down.

This is a normal condition. It sucks in air through the throttle body to create a fuel/air mixture used for combustion.

Normally it should have no effect on the engine performance as regards 'dying'. You may have more than one problem.

The cranikshaft postion sensor is located on the front driver's side of the block about 4 inches below the value body cover

on the bottom of the battery there is a long screw with a type of washer thing that holds the battery down and from moving when mobile. so look around it and near the bottom for a nut looking thing try that maybe. well hope it helps

Code 43 indicates a fault in the ESC (electronic spark control) system. It usually means the knock sensor has failed, or the wiring to the knock sensor is faulty. When this fails it causes the computer to retard the spark timing to protect the engine, resulting in stalling, poor performance and reduced mileage.

PCV valve, grommet, and a new elbow fixed mine. Booya

,,,,the cause could be a hundred different things but most probably it's ma fuel delivery problem or an electrical problem.

every time I try to insert an A into my posts, it always come out ma!!

bad fuel pump, you dont have enough pressure to stay alive.

fit a smaller main jet and or move the needle jet c clip up one position. also use decent fuel, leaded fuel is best; aviation fuel if in NZ fit a smaller main jet and or move the needle jet c clip up one position. also use decent fuel, leaded fuel is best; aviation fuel if in NZ

One reason why a Mitsubishi Star Wagon will stall when accelerating is bad spark plugs. Another reason is a bad oxygen sensor or the throttle position sensor.

Sounds like a vacuum leak. Check mounting bolts on throttle body and intake manifold for tightness. Also check vacuum hoses for cracks or disconnections. Might also want to check PCV valve and air filter.

If the car does this every time, but is ok in forward gears, then the transmission could have an internal problem. There could also be an electronic issue. If possible, run the computer codes for any bad codes to appear.