Car Starting Problems

Probably not much unless it's a lightning strike. A simple power surge shouldn't do damage since the vehicle is fairly rugged when everything is turned off like that. A lightening direct hit or near direct hit can cause results that are unpredictable. Voltages at that level tend to follow whatever path they like.

Apparently so. After a few techies at my MB USA dealership guessed at why the engine cranks but never fully starts an engineer from the blue guessed that my key was the cause. Even though the key was synchronized with the car's computer, it still wasn't acceptable to the "computer module" that is part of the steering column. I am guessing there are handshake routines that the key remote and the receiver portion in the car go through that checks for invalid/valid responses and my key was responding incorrectly. Although the key was able to remotely unlock and disarm the ant-theft system it somehow lost the ability to start the car. To test this theory I used my other key (with remote) and the car indeed started. The car was even startable with the valet key (which has no remote....interesting). Other MB techies were guessing that the fuel pump may be the reason, another thought the battery wasn't charged enough and yet another engineer thought my cranckshaft sensor was probably damaged and thus preventing the car from starting. Since the car is no longer under warranty, I have saved thousands of dollars by following the advice of the techie who guessed it was the key remote that is the cause of the problem. At any rate this went on for three days before he came along and solved the mystery. One thing that hasn't been tested is what if the batteries were removed from the offending key. Would the car start? Wouldn't a key with a remote w/o batteries be just a plain key like the spare valet key that WAS able to start the car? We haven't tried that yet. I was too excited to drive the truck out of the dealership and back to home with a working fuel pump, battery and all the other doohickies that were presumably the cause of this problem. All the best!! Chance.

If your 1989 Mercury Topaz starts but won't stay running, you should check the fuel system, including the fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel injectors. Additionally, check the ignition system for issues with the spark plugs, ignition coil, or ignition module. Finally, inspect the air intake system for any blockages or leaks that could be affecting the engine's ability to run smoothly.

The starter motor is located under the car. There is three bolts holding it to the side of the transmission. There is also a bracet being held on by the bolt which is connected to the E.G.R. tubes. Just undo the the three nuts and pull the E.G.R. bracet off then undo the power line to the starter and you should have the starter in your hands. Before you do anything though disconnect the + batterie terrminal.

Rocking the car back and forth may help the car's fuel pump to pick up residual fuel and deliver it to the engine. This can sometimes be enough to give the engine the boost it needs to start. However, this is likely a sign of an issue with the fuel system, such as a failing fuel pump or clogged fuel filter, that should be addressed to prevent further problems.

Make sure the keys are out of the ignition first. Then check to see if your vehicle has any braces holding it in place. Once you've taken any braces off, disconnect the ground wire(black), it useally takes a 1/2 inch wrench. Then take your hot wire off(red). These are all the workings of a person being self sufficient. Good luck.

The fuel pump relay is situaded behind a cover next to your pedals on the right hand side.If you removed it you will find your computer box allso there that's on the astra F so I hope it will help

i too had the same problem with my L300. after about a year of this problem i replaced the crankshaft position sensor...it was extremely easy to do myself. the car has not acted up since. hope this helps.

Your fuel pump should run all the time. If it is loud its bad or going bad. As for the puddle - spray silicone on your spark plug wires a cap. Vans inject water at great pressure because of the cover. That's most likely the problem.

The stator is bad.. Or the pulser coil

I had this problem that was intermittant on my 1992 300E. after alot of searching, they discovered it was a crankcase sensor that was broken. does not show up on computer. it only happened when the engine was warm. the car would shut off after i had driven it 10 miles and would not restart till it cooled down. ANSWER 2 I think you will need to give LOT more information than this. Dead battery, corrosion built up on battery terminals, dead fuel pump, bad sensor, blown fuse, blown wiring, corroded wiring, bad distributor, bad spark plugs, out of gas, clogged fuel injectors, blown motor, dead cat caught in your belts, packrat taken up residence in your crank case, you ran it with no oil and it has seized up, I mean I could really go on and on. Please give specifics.

the solenoid itself is probably bad, if not that probably the ignition switch I agree 100%, check the solenoid first then the switch.

Go back to the basics, look at fuel delivery, ignition and compression. If you have all 3 and everything is adjusted properly, the engine will start. Try spraying a little starting fluid into the air intake while someone is trying to start the engine. If the engine briefly catches while you're spraying starting fluid, the problem is fuel delivery.

The starter on the 2002 Saturn vue is located on the front underside of the engine, follow the positive(red) cable from the battery and it should connect to the solenoid which is part of the starter.

If your car uses VVT(Variable Valve Timing) or adjusts its ignition timing it could cause poor fuel economy, misfires, keep the car from starting. If the car is fuel injected the timing of the injectors is tied in with that too. In short nothing could, if the car manages to keep running it could lead to a blown motor depending on how you drive.

Try tuging on the steering wheel while trying to turn the key. Check the position of the front wheels, they can transmit tension back up the steering colum and lick the ignition switch.

Some cats can go on either way but some can't did you put it on the right way

No, the battery terminal should be able to handle as much electrical current as the vehicle should ever use, WITHOUT heating up. Clean or replace any battery terminal that is getting hot.

If its shaking side to side could be a tire out of balance or maybe a mechanical issue (wheel bearing, alignment, etc). Probably not a safety issue, but it can wear the tires out prematurely which can be expensive. Warped brake rotors are the most likely cause if the steering wheel only shakes when applying the brakes.

Park the car is a quiet location and turn the ignition key on but do not start the engine. Listen carefully for the sound of the fuel pump. It will run for a few seconds and then shut down which is normal. If you do not hear the pump, either the pump is bad, the fuse is blown, or the fuel pump relay is defective. You may also hear the pump and it can still be pumping with so low a pressure as to be defective. Make sure your problem is not a clogged fuel filter. Replace the filter asap. If the car has over 100,000 miles on the Odometer you probably need a new pump, especially if you have neglected to replace the fuel filter every 50,000 miles. A clogged fuel filter will burn a fuel pump up very quickly.

clean the battery terminals with baking soda and water. them jump it

Its at the front of the engine, low down just on driver side of centre of car. You have to be on the ground to see it.

That question will need much more detail before it can be answered. For an engine to run it needs fuel, air and spark. Without knowing which of these the engine has or does not have the question can't be answered.

If by nothing you mean it acks as though there is no battery in the car try this it worked on my (1990 DEVILLE ). Put the car in park ,Attach a remote starter switch to the starter,remove the air cleaner,turn the key to the on position, put approx one teaspoon of gas in the intake manifoil throat and try to start the engin using the remote starter. If the car starts the problem is somewhere in the pass key decoder circuit which includes the starter enable relay ,the fuel pump relay,key warning ,seat belt warning ETC. Your car has on onboard diagnostic computer which will give basic problem codes you can find out what the codes mean in a Haynes Repair Manual for your car. I repaired my car by bypassing the starter enable relay and the car works fine (but if the battery is disconnected for any reason I must charge the engine with a teaspoon of gas to restart the car GOOD LUCK a repair is $600+