Car Starting Problems

start with checking the battery, next check the solenoid,next check the starter motor.then check ignition switch

You may have knocked off a wire when you reconnected the starter wire, Check the wire going to the O2 sensor. if this isn't it take it to a shop and have them scan the ecm. It could be a flewk.good luck....Michael

The most common reason, would be a dirty battery post, where you battery cable hooks to the battery. It could be either one or both. You need to take the cable off, and then clean the battery post, and the inside of the cable that goes over it. I don't know what kind of vehicle you have. If it's a GM with the side mount connections on the battery,it also could be a corroded cable, that you can't always see. They corrode under the insulating rubber. These usually require a new cable.

on the front of your transmission is harness plug .unplug it and try it then. It could be a few problems, but the main one would be your Lock up converter. The converter itself and/or the wiring may be bad, thus making your transmission lock itself when you try to put it into gear. Upon removing the transmission (some overhaul will be needed) a common problems with the AX4N are bad valve body or worn gears. This tranny is electronically controlled and can often be a pain to work on because it is very exacting. Have a Transmission specialist(not a dealer, unless under warranty) test it and replace the necessary parts. The dealer will want to replace the whole thing, which probably is not necessary. New AX4N's run 2500-3000 plus labor.

The cylinder head temperature sensor could be bad. If it shows an open circuit (resistance is infinity) it tells the computer that the air temp is very cold and the computer adds more fuel, kinda like a choke). Locate the sensor (right beside the distributor on a V-6, buried down in the valley) and remove the wiring harness. Use a jumper wire to short the wiring connector to ground. This will fool the computer into thinking the engine is warm and will meter fuel accordingly. You can then drive the truck to someone who has the special tool required to get to the sensor.

The starter is probably at fault. Hit it with a hammer real good and if it starts it is the starter for sure. That won''t work but a few times.

would check the crank sensoe 2 c if it is pulsating.

For an engine to run, you need air, fuel and a spark. 1)Check to see if you have spark at the end of one of the spark plug wires. 2)To check for fuel, turn the key to the ON position but do not start. The fuel pump will run about 2 secs and then shut off. You should hear a buzzing type sound coming from the back of the car.

I had a problem with my 97 grand am not starting. It would turn over but it was acting like it didn't get any gas. I had to leave the key on for 10 minutes to reset the anti theft system. I found that out after changing the fuel filter and part of the fuel line.

My Son's 2001 Grand Am had the same problem. Did the 'leave ignition switch turned on for 10 minutes' It worked. Changed the fuel filter, and tested the fuel pump that was ok. The Throttle Body Carb would not let any gas in till we did the 10 reset. Thanks

Take it to an independent garage. On some cars it is fairly simple to remove the lock cylinder and replace it (the ignition tumbler & keys for my 1989 cavalier was only $25; unfortunately, it is a long task to get it apart). If it is the ignition swith, same applies, on some cars it is quite simple. I found that the best advice I gto was from an auto wreckers (they know how to dismantle a variety of vehicles)

if you have fouled sparkplugs then the car will hesitate when you accelerate, seeming to 'miss' a step or two. if it's a clogged throttle body, the car will just act sluggish, gas mileage will go down and the accelerator might stick a bit when you try to step on it.

Could be a number of things. Is your car attempting to turn over (whur-whur-whur sound) or do you not get any response at all when you turn the key. Things to check:

1. Battery partially drained(it takes alot more juice to start a car then to just power your accessories).

2. Ignition coil (provides electricity to your spark plug wires).

3. Distributor cap/rotor (sends this electricity to your spark plugs).

4. Fuel pump.

5. Electrical continuity, espcially grounds. Check to see if all your ground wires are fastened AND tightened.

Maybe the starter, had a problem with mine, got underneath and wiggled the connnection to the starter and would start, eventually I replaced the starter, no problems since.

You could also check the Neutral Safety Switch. This limits the vehicle to only start in Park or Neutral.

Just guessing here, but it sounds like you need a PATS key to start your car. (passive anti-theft system). I don't know if your particular vehicle requires one, look in the owner's manual. If you have the original Mercury key, it would have a plastic head containing a computer chip (transponder). Contact your local Ford, Mercury, Lincoln dealer and ask for the Parts Dept., or a help desk. Have your make, model and VIN number handy. If your car needs a pats key, dealer prices can be high, try getting one on ebay. You'll still need to go to a dealer or a specialized locksmith shop and have it programmed. If you find out that your car doesn't require a pats key, then I'd check to see if the ignition key tumbler needs replaced.

Most likely cause is a corroded set of battery connections. remove, clean and re-install.

Ignition module is a possibility.

you need to disconnect the two wire spout connector shorting bar located between the battery and data link connector

The starter solenoid, or ignition switch is bad, and either one needs to be replaced.

Look to see if the ignition plug to your starter did not come loose or un plugged. Since this is on the same side, possible disconnect of the starter ignition wire became disconnected

POSSIBILITIES ARE; VOLTAGE REGULATOR OR BARE OR DISCONNECTED GROUND WIRE TO THE STARTER. WATER AND SNOW WILL CAUSE THESE BARE SPOTS TO SHORT THE CURRENT TO GROUND OR ELSWHERE. I WOULD SUGGEST GETTING A WIRING SCHEMATIC FROM THE LOCAL LIBRARY OR PURCHASE A CHILTONS BOOK. WIRING PROBLEMS CAN BE SIMPLE OR UNTRACEABLE AT TIMES. I KNOW SOME PEOPLE THAT HAVE NEVER SOLVED A TAIL LIGHT SHORTING OUT. THE MANUAL AND SCHEMATIC WILL HELP YOU NARROW DOWN THE PROBLEM. GOOD LUCK!

The engine needs good battery power, fuel and spark to start and run. You are probably missing one of those.

check the battery, some with bad cells will test with 12 volts but once you puy it under a load it fails. Sounds like a possible transponder key or factory security system issue.

bad glow plugs or faulty glow plug timer module

The pulleys have marks that line up with marks on the case, See link below for complete step by step how to with pictures.

It usually means that the cylinder head gasket has perished. The gasket is designed to provide a complete seal for the combustion chamber and allow full combustion of the fuel to take place. When it perishes, air is drawn in to the chambers by the sucking action of the pistons, which accounts for the hissing noise. The smoking is caused by the fact that incomplete combustion is taking place, meaning that partially-burnt fuel is being expelled as dirty smoke.

Unless you have knowledge of car engines and also the necessary tools to make the repair, it will need to be carried out by a garage.

most common cause is the crank sensor mounted to the transmission bellhousing, the wire harness usually cracks and shorts wires near sensor. also the fuel pump will not work unless it receives signal from crank sensor

only the older belt driven air pumps seize up and may stop engine from cranking by fan belt holding engine, new electric air pumps are prone to suck up water or electric motor failure causing fuse to blow but car will still run

Don't drive in deep water.

It means you got the electronics wet. Once they dry out it will start.