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Car Starting Problems

Some of the common car starting problems stem from a discharged battery, a bad fuel pump (or no fuel), a weakened starter motor, or a broken electrical connection. Checking each part will help troubleshoot why the car won’t start.

5,524 Questions

1993 E-150 van?

It's a Ford van on a 1/2 ton suspension... What's the question? Check for spark, compression and fuel. If you have all three and the timing is right, it will run.

Where is the starter on a 1998 acura 2.5 tl?

Under the intake plenum about the area of your oil filter looks like a real pain to get out Under the intake plenum about the area of your oil filter looks like a real pain to get out

Car seemed to be running fineI go to start it only clicks and engine doesn't turn overi get a jump drive it back home Then try to start it again and it just clicks and does the same thing?

Disregard all the following comments about the alternator being at fault. They are all wrong. The primary reason your starter clicks but won't crank is that not enough current (amps) are going from the battery (a storage device) to the starter (merely an electric motor with a special gear on the end).

So . . . how do you get more amps from the battery to the starter motor?

1. Remove battery cables and wirebrush the connections. Then reattach the cables, making sure that the connections are clean and tight. This will solve most (not all) "clicking" problems.

2. If course of action #1 doesn't solve your problem, disconnect the cables again and this time clean the connection at the starter motor solenoid. Note: do not work on the solenoid connection while the main battery cables are still attached.

3. If clean connections are not enough to solve your problem, remove the battery and take it to Advance Auto or some other auto store that tests batteries. They will put the battery on a charger for 6 hours and then test it with a load meter. The meter will identify a bad battery instantly.

4. If courses of action 1, 2, and 3 have not solved your problem, the culprit may be the alternator. The only way to test it is to get the engine running and then connect a voltmeter to the positive (red) and negative (black) terminals on the battery. The reading should be about 13+ volts. Twelve volts is insufficient, and 15 volts is too high. If the alternator is not putting out 13+ volts, the battery will slowly lose its charge, and you will be back to the "clicking" problem.

Answeryour problem is either the car battery, or your alternator. Answerthe alternator is what charges your battery. try jumping it off again and letting if run for 15 or 20 minutes, then shut the car off. if problem persists, its definetly the alternator AnswerLets start with a good old battery terminal clean up. Are you terminals clean? I mean clean and tight! The problem could well be your battery, if the car is not getting enough Amps it will just click at the selenoid. (When you get a boost you're adding more amps to your car battery.) But if you have a battery charger, or can borrow one for an hour , then charge the battery for an hour and see if you car starts OK. If it does, then get a Volt Meter and hook it up to your battery with the car running.(red to Positive, black to negative.) With the car running you should get about 14.5 Volts at the battery. This would indicate that the alternator is good and there is a very good chance that your battery is toast, if you get only a 12 Volt reading, then your alternator is shot and needs to be replaced. Some battery shops will do a load test on your battery to tell you if it is good or not, phone around, some are very helpful. Some batteries still have lids on them that can be popped off and the cells filled to the bottom of the air slots with DISTILLED water. Only use DISTILLED water. Then charge your battery well, put it on the charger or go out for a good long drive to change that distilled water into acid. Be careful, battery acid is very corrosive and will ruin a good pair of blue-jeans in one washing. It'll also eat nice little holes in your skin anywhere it touches...Aw heck...just go buy a new battery if you need one based on the tests above. Good luck, let us know what you find. Jim.

When did they start painting flames on the fronts of cars?

== == After the the end of World War Two, in California, in the late 1940's , the age of early hot rod car building began. One of the "looks " was to imitate the kind of "nose art " tnat had been painted on WW2 fighter and bomber aircraft, including sharks's teeth and flames and girl friends names. Most of the early hot rod or custom car builders were young single and had been in the military where they learned to repair things such as trucks and jeeps, so they had skills that they used to improve their cars performance and looks. By reducing the weight of a car and increasing the engine horsepower, they wre able to go faster and faster, and by the mid 50's they had cars that could go over 140 mph on a quarter mile drag strip run. The ideal then was a car that could be " steet legal" with the high performance of a race car. By removing the street tires and putting on " cheater slicks " , and disconnecting the muffler system, they could get good times on the strip. In those days, racers did their own engine work, from shaving the cylinder heads to get higher compression to regrinding their own camshafts and crankshafts, and installing "fuelie valves " to get bigger intake and exhaust openings in the cylinders heads. Drilling parts to lighten them was also very popular, so brackets and frames were spider cut to take out weight. Mixing exotic fuels was also a trend and alcohol and nitro benzine were used with some spectacular blow ups, if the mix was too powerful for the engine to stand up to it. Hot rods evolved to full out race cars that were only for the strip, and the beginnings of the NHRA was born, to set rules and promote safety in drag racing. By the early 60's some racers were making a living at it, week after week. By then the flame job was a standard thing on cars that had been modified in some way.

What would cause a clicking noise and a 1999 Honda Prelude not to start?

dead battery... if battery is ok, most likely bad starter.. also everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and a professional shop manual should be available at the library in the reference section for FREE...make copies of the right pages and fix your vehicle like a PRO! :) good luck Dave :)

New battery and car wont start even with a jump?

Lots of things. Fuel, timing belt broke, coil or coil pack, fuse, bad spark plugs, spark control or pick up in the distributor. What kind of car, how old, and how did it do when it wouldn't start the first time or what happened when it wouldn't? Many cars have the same thing happen so it helps to know what kind it is.

Bypass neutral safety starter switch on 1992 pa-so?

Just jump it or splice the wires together once you find the switch. A wiring diagram will provide location.

After not starting your car for 3 days the battery is being drained If you unhook your battery for those 3 days will it save the battery?

If your battery is good and you know your car is draining it then yes, disconnecting your battery from your car will keep your battery charged for much longer than 3 days. Your battery should stay charged way longer than 3 days in normal conditions being hooked up to your car. You should get it checked out and figure out what is draining your battery so fast.

When your car is started and has had time to warm up the engine starts to rev high and then drop suddenly and just keeps on doing this for a while and then will stop and then start again?

Sounds like you have a intermittent with the Idle Air Control valve. Wires that go to the valve may be loose at the connector or intermittently shorting out to one another or ground. valve may be sticking, opening and closing from carbon build up. these valves can be taken off and manually cleaned.

You bumped your front bumper in a minor accident and your car will not start?

im not a mechanic but about a year ago i hit a pot hole and had same problem it ended up being a fuel reset switch mine was in trunk but i hear some are under dash if u cant find go to a parts store and look up in the books that they have for sell for ur vehicle

Your Chevy s10 wont start it turns over but doesn't fire you just a snow storm and it is all gone now what is wrong?

Check the Chevy S10s crankshaft position sensor. The sensor is located low on the engine, and the snow could have gotten the connection damp. The engine will not start when the sensor does not operate.

What would cause a Nissan starts when is cold but won't start it is hot?

Check the engine coolant temprature sensor it may be sending the wrong signals to the ECU making the ECU think the engine is cold and overfueling the engine.

What does the fuel cutout light mean on a 1993 ford escort?

when i spin the motor the fuel cut out light comes on. The injectors are getting fuel but the car want hit a lick

Why would a 1968 Olds 442 only run when the starter is being turned over and stall instantly once the key is no longer in the start position?

Answer:

The engine runs while starting because the spark plugs are getting electricity from the battery via the ignition coil and distributor. When the key leaves the start position to go back to the normal "run" position, the spark plugs must get their energy from the alternator. I would start with the alternator (probably the most common part to go bad), you can test it or remove it and take it to Advance Auto or one of the parts places and they can test it. If it is bad then replace, else put it back on. If your problem isn't fixed at this point then you will want to have it towed to a shop or buy a 68 Cutlass/442 shop manual from Ebay or fusick.com (if you want to learn how to fix this yourself). The next steps are a little more involved, checking the voltage regulator, alternator circuit, ignition switch etc. If it just started doing this one day, and you didnt do anything to it ;), then its probably 80-90% likely to be a bad alternator.

What would cause my Ford E-150 Van to crank but not start when I have 12 volts to the coil but no spark from the coil?

Perhaps a bad coil?

I have a 1986 ford club wagon 150-302 with fuel injection. It turned out that the pick up coil in the distributor was bad and I had to replace the distributor. Not an easy job.

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