Car Starting Problems

If you put the vehicle in gear but it doesn't engage, you probably have a problem with the transmission. Check the transmission fluid level first, but don't try to drive it if it won't engage. If it's just low on fluid you might be ok, otherwise, see a transmission shop. It could also be a disconnected CV joint. To determine whether it is the transmission or CV joint, there are two simple tests. The first is to shift the vehicle into Drive and watch the speedometer while you push down on the accelerator. If the speedometer moves, then the problem is the CV joint, not the transmission. The second test is to put the car in Neutral and push the car. If the car rolls, then put the car in Park and push again. If the car rolls forward, then the problem is the transmission. If it does not move forward, then it is the CV Joint.

Remove the right front wheel and splash guard (rubber curtain) the starter will be right in front of you. You can not remove it from the bottom of the truck, it will not fit out that way. From the wheel well you will still need to manuever it around a bit, but that is how it comes out.

It sounds like the battery only has enough of a charge to run the ignition and the alternator is not contributing anything so as soon as you put additional load on it, the engine dies from lack of power for the ignition coil. If you have a volt meter, check the battery voltage BEFORE you start the engine. If it'needs a jump-start again do so and start the engine. Then remove the jumper cables and test the voltage level in the battery with the engine RPM at around 1000. With the engine running it should be somewhere near 13.5 Volts. If it's anything less than 12 V, you have a problem with the alternator.

Yes,without a working coil the engine will not get fire to the spark plugs you can check your coil by using a 12 volt test lamp ground the black wire and connect other lead to negative side of coil, if the light does not flicker when turning the motor over your coil needs replaced

A fully charged 12 volt automobile battery will read 12.6 volts with the engine not running and 13.5 to 15.5 volts with the engine running. It will read 12.4 volts with a 75% charge, 12.2 volts with a 50% charge and 12.0 volts indicates a 25% charge.

If it is the ignition switch and not the key tumbler assembly , it takes a Phillips screwdriver and a #10 torx with the hole in the center, remove the under dash cover and the bottom half of the steering column cover with the Phillips, then use the torx to remove the retaining screw from the ignition switch. Unplug and replace! the unit is located on the left of the steering column under the blinker switch. They average around thirty dollars after market. If it is the key cylinder, you would follow the same instruction except for removing the ign switch, turn the key to the on position and push in the retainer on the bottom then pull out ! I just did this to my daughter's 98 with a little help from a pipe wrench , (it would not go in to the on position) ! The cylinder is not offered after market and dodge wants 80 or 90 dollars for it so I took it to a local lock smith and they rebuilt it for $28.00 Good Luck ! -------------------------------- I tried the answer above with no luck. My key wouldn't go into the on position either, in fact the key wouldn't move at all. All I ended up was denting the crhome-like plate on top of the key cylinder with the pipe wrench. I guess I didn't want to apply so much force not to make matters worse. I ended up calling the locksmith, who, to my surprise, solved it in less than a minute! And here I offer you the cheapest solution. What he did was to take the key off the keychain, insert it in the cylinder as usual, and then insert the thin end of a file (a common tool for locksmiths) through the hole of the key and use it as a lever. Then he started shaking it quickly and vigorously -obviously not enough strenght as to break the key- taking it in and out, and shaking back and forth several times, until it actually turned!! Once it turns you press on the retainer and pull the cylinder out. Then take it to the locksmith and you can save big bucks on the rebuilding and the having the locksmit go to where the car is.

first i would check your coil, if its good, check your ignition switch.

there are many things that can cause this problem. bad spark plugs / wires bad alternator ignition problems loose or corroded battery conection incorrect timing

Starter solenoid is not making contact to turn starter motor. Replace starter or solenoid(which is on the starter)

!st try the battery posts. look and see if tight and clean... same thing happened to me i tightened it ,and the caddy started right up

It could be that the starter or solenoid is in a bind after the engine warms up. Metal expands and contracts with temperature. This is only a solution if it starts when cold which would be the first time it is started. Try starting it cold then shut it off before it gets hot then see if it will restart. If it won't start when hot maybe try replacing the starter. Hope that helps you out.

Your 2001 Ford Explorer uses a key that has chip in it called a transponder (as you know). This chip has a mathematical formula that is used to answer a numeric question that your car generates. If the answer is correct the car's computer allows you to start the car. (A Simple Example: what is 5 multiplied by X?) The transponder and car both know that X = 2 so the chip responds with the answer 20, and the car, knowing the answer is correct, starts. This all happens in about a tenth of a second. There is also about a billion possible answers to the cars question, so if you use the wrong key, it will give the wrong answer, and the car will not start. So, to answer your question: If the key turns in the door and the ignition that it is working mechanically, but the transponder part is broken. If the key does not turn in the lock, the mechanical part of the key (the cuts on the key or the wafers in the lock) are not working properly. Either way, a Locksmith in your area should be able to help you out.

check for fuel pressure, should be around 50 psi. try getting someone to bang on the bottom of the gas tank while cranking, might get it going to determine if its the pump

[check your starter. that was the problem with mine. 94 G20] Original Answer

We just fixed my sister's '95 G20 start problem and ours was a recessed pin in a connector in the starter relay wire (the small wire that's attached to the starter). but there are a few tests you can do;

1. This one is simple: make sure everything is hooked up like you were going to start it on a normal day, then turn your headlights on and try to start it. If it sounds like it tries and the headlights dim (even a little) it's likely a dead battery. if there's a click/no click and then nothing and headlights don't dim, you've got an open somewhere in the starter circuit.

2. If the engine cranks over no problem, but just won't start firing and driving itself, you've likely got either a dead fuel pump or a clogged fuel line/filter.

3. have someone listening under the hood when you turn the key to the on position to make sure the clutch inhibitor relay is clicking (should click once when the key is turned to the on position).

If you're a Do-It-Yourselfer, here's some solutions you can try. If not, take it to a mechanic and tell him/her your findings and let them go from there.

1. If you have a multimeter/voltmeter and ohmmeter, you can investigate an open fairly easily-BE CAREFUL with the voltmeter test as you will have to have the battery plugged in. start by pulling the starter fuse (if it's like my sister's, it'll be tucked underneath the front driverside quarter panel under the hood, (should be able to access it just behind the battery). you can do an ohm test on the fuse itself to make sure it's good (if it's not transparent, otherwise just look at the metal arch inside it to see if it's separated). then a voltage test with the red lead in one side of the fuse plug and the other on the negative side of the battery or a good ground like the frame or the engine; you should get 11.9v-12.4v. (if you don't get voltage try moving the red lead to the other side of the fuse plug). Do you get voltage? Yes: your issue is farther down the line, closer to the starter motor. No: you have an open between your battery and the fuse. continue testing this way all the way to the starter motor. once on the other side of the ignition switch you can switch to ohm testing, just make sure the key is in the OFF position or you'll fry your tester. Here's a couple wiring diagrams for manual or automatic transmission:

You have to slip a plastic strap used for banding skids,etc. through the window and wrap it around the door lock. Pull it tight and up at the same time. This will unlock the door. Do not pry to hard on the window when you slide the strap down the window to the lock.

Could blow up the battery, probably burn out one of the main fuses or fuseable links, could mess up the computer or any part of the electrical system of either or both cars.

If by 'jumpstarting the car backwards,' you mean pushstarting the car (with manual transmission) in reverse, then no harm should be done. However, it is often more difficult to start a vehicle by pushstarting in reverse, so whenever possible try to start it in 2nd or 3rd gear forwards.

it's underneath and bolts to the transmission via two bolts. it's the size of a small coffee can. it runs parallel to the oil pan.. it's big. you can' miss it. if you car is having trouble starting, look for corroded wires or a malfunctioning starter realy, which is bolted to the inner fender by the battery. email with further ?'s

Try servicing the car... Fuel filter/Air filter and housing is the most common culprit. The car basically can't 'breathe' and pushing the accelerator forces the engine to run.

my 87 just had this problem...it was the mass air flow sensor. if its not that try the computer my 86 had the same problem, it was the Mass Air Flow Sensor

If the car won't start it is usually the battery, starter or could be the altenator. What are the symptoms when you try to start it, is there any power?

Internal combustion engines need 3 things to start and run: air, fuel, and spark. First look over all of your fuses, to make sure none of them such as the fuel pump fuse, or the fusable link have burned out. Make sure your battery is not faulty, even a brand new battery could potentially be no good. Check the voltage with your volt or multi meter, it should read around 12.5v. Inspect the cables to and from the battery and alternator, but sure they are properly installed. Check your air induction system, make sure the air filter is nice and clean, no blockages. If your vehicle is equipped with a MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor) make sure it is plugged in correctly. Likewise if your vehicle is equipped with a MAP (manifold absolute pressure sensor) be sure that is plugged in correctly. Visually inspect the entire length of the intake piping, for loose clamps, cracked piping, or gaps. Once you have completed that if your vehicle has a distributor system, remove the distributor cap and replace it if necessary. If you see any visible damage to the spark plug wires, or the age of them is unknown replace them. Next check your spak plugs for the correct gap as recommended by the manufacturer, be sure they are in good shape before reinstalling them. If the vehicle still will not start, try replacing your fuel filter. This is usually inline, though in some cases it is in the fuel tank itself. Once that is completed turn the key to the accessory position, in most vehicles you should hear the fuel pump turn on and prime the lines for starting. If you do, you should be in good shape at this point.

If a 1995 Chevy Cavalier overheated and will not start, try checking some of the sensors near the radiator. The radiator could be leaking which caused the overheating, and in turn, caused a sensor to get wet in the engine compartment.

I had this problem and found and answer on the internet. Find your computer, mine is next to windshield wiper water bottle. Pull off the plastic cover than unplug the leads to computer. You will see two screws back them out one turn. That is it. Some how the cover is shorting the computer because the screws are to tight, Mine is a 1996 Cherokee Limited.

your engine will start but run badly on a multi cyl. ie. more than one only 1 plug may be down, not often more than 1 together

The crankshaft sensor on a 2000 Nissan Xterra is located at the rear of the engine near the bell housing. It continuously monitors the crankshaft and updates the vehicle's computer on its status.