Car Starting Problems

If the engine cranks over, but will not start or is difficult to start, it's either fuel or ignition. Too many possible causes to list. A repair shop which can extract engine codes and accurately diagnose problem. Simple things to try: 1. check clogged air filter 2. check clogged fuel filter 3. check worn out plugs, cap, rotor 4. examine vacuum hoses for leaks

The battery terminal is loose at the positive post, or the cable wires are loose at the positive terminal. Remove the terminal, clean everything properly and then reassemble and tighten securely, and it will no longer spark. Your vehicle should start. A light spritz of WD-40 or the like will deter corrosion. It's cheaper than the little anti-corrosion terminal pads they sell at the auto parts stores, but feel free to grab a pair of them when you have a moment. Then when time permits, pull your terminals (positive gets pulled first and put back on last), clean them, and put on the pads before reassembly.

GOT IT FIXED TODAY. WOUND UP THE IGNITION SWITCH WAS BAD. NOT THE KEY AND CYLINDER COMMONLY REFERED TO AS THE IGNITION SWITCH BUT THE SWITCH DOWN ON THE COLUMN UNDER THE DASH THAT THE TURNING OF THE KEY PUSHES WITH A ROD. I ASKED 2 MECHANICS, 4 PARTS STORES AND THE SERVICE DEPT AT THE LOCAL CHEVY DEALER AND THE ALL TOLD ME THE KEY AND CYLINDER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. $179.00 LATER MY CAR STILL DID EXACTLY WHAT IT DID TO BEGIN WITH. SO I PUT ON A $21.39 SWITCH THAT WAS MOUNTED ON TOP OF THE STEERING COLUMN UNDER THE DASH AND WAS SO HARD TO GET TO THE THE WHOLE COLUMN HAD TO COME OUT TO REPLACE IT. HOPE THIS MAY HELP SOMEONE IN THE FUTURE BUT I HOPE YOU NEVER HAVE TO DO IT. IT IS A PAIN.

Sounds like either loose or corroded battery terminal or bad fuseable like

Check the coil packs. And I know this sounds not normal, but check for fuel in the tank. Check the fuel line and filters. I am assuming that it sounds normal when it turns over. If not, check the timing belt.

Make sure that when you attempt to start, the security light doesn't come on; if it is it might be a nats problem, meaning you inserted a wrong key in the ignition causing the ecu to lock.

If you can give me a bit more info, I could hopefully be more specific.

Your timing could be off, Your starter could be going bad, or you could have a low battery.The battery is the simplest to start with. You could go to Auto Zone and they will check your battery for you. Also talk to them about your starter and your timing. Low battery, faulty alternator, worn stater, corroded connection

I am not sure but if you find out PLEASE POST it here I am having the exact same problem and was looking for an answer also!!! It will start sometimes I have had it in the shop several times and it starts perfect for them almost everytime.. they have ran diagonistic test on it and it shows NOTHING is wrong I have gotten a new key with the same code in it (cost 47.00) not the problem, I put a new starter on it they told me that was the problem NOPE it still did it... I put a new battery in it NOPE.. New spark plugs NOPE.. New ignition switch NOPE... I have tried almost everything and still nothing!!! It has to be something simple but NO ONE can seem to find it ... I LOVE my car it is one of the BEST I have ever owned as far as a GREAT riding vehicle just this crazy security problem!!! THANK YOU

I had the EXACT same problems with my 1995 LeSabre. My mechanic disconnected my remote starter and the automatic door/trunk locks, and it starts up fine now--ALL THE TIME! I cannot use my remote starter anymore, and I have to unlock my doors and trunk with a key, but the car starts up perfectly every time! My repair bill was only $65.00!

I am currently having the same problem with my 95 LeSabre. I have been told to replace the ignition lock cylinder because the problem could be in the wires running to the VATS system from the ignition. I have also been told it could be the VATS system itself. Well I found a site that give you the ability to bypass the system!! I haven't tried it yet but think I'm going to. Here is the link:

http://vats.likeabigdog.com/

Here is another link to a you tube video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKfn7J9CeZM

The engine needs fuel, compression and spark the run. You are missing one of those.

i had this problem on a older ford it was the module in the bottom of the distributor and the same problem in a newer car and it was the module under the coil packs The last answer is correct. Although it could also be the coil pack. If the resistance is off a little bit, it will get worse as the vehicle heats up. It will then kick the auto shut down relay and your done till it resets. Check the module and the coil pack. Depending on the kind of vehicle you have it could be either or both if it's a GM car from the 1980s or 1990s the fuel filter can get clogged to the point where the engine will stall after it's warmed up even tho the fuel pump etc etc are all okay. it does this because the filter is is mounted low and it's filling up due to gravity when the car is off. this often happens on Firebirds/Camaros and can be quite a problem. try changing the fuel filter. ps The diagnostic computer will often fail to see the problem

Take the steering column housing off (usually held by 4 screws from the bottom) and remove the starter cap from the back of the ignition cylinder. In a Nissan, the ignition cylinder usually has a T shaped pin which turns the starter. if you can start your vehicle by turning the starter cap with a screw driver, you probably don't have an issue with the starter.

If you put the vehicle in gear but it doesn't engage, you probably have a problem with the transmission. Check the transmission fluid level first, but don't try to drive it if it won't engage. If it's just low on fluid you might be ok, otherwise, see a transmission shop. It could also be a disconnected CV joint. To determine whether it is the transmission or CV joint, there are two simple tests. The first is to shift the vehicle into Drive and watch the speedometer while you push down on the accelerator. If the speedometer moves, then the problem is the CV joint, not the transmission. The second test is to put the car in Neutral and push the car. If the car rolls, then put the car in Park and push again. If the car rolls forward, then the problem is the transmission. If it does not move forward, then it is the CV Joint.

Remove the right front wheel and splash guard (rubber curtain) the starter will be right in front of you. You can not remove it from the bottom of the truck, it will not fit out that way. From the wheel well you will still need to manuever it around a bit, but that is how it comes out.

It sounds like the battery only has enough of a charge to run the ignition and the alternator is not contributing anything so as soon as you put additional load on it, the engine dies from lack of power for the ignition coil. If you have a volt meter, check the battery voltage BEFORE you start the engine. If it'needs a jump-start again do so and start the engine. Then remove the jumper cables and test the voltage level in the battery with the engine RPM at around 1000. With the engine running it should be somewhere near 13.5 Volts. If it's anything less than 12 V, you have a problem with the alternator.

Yes,without a working coil the engine will not get fire to the spark plugs you can check your coil by using a 12 volt test lamp ground the black wire and connect other lead to negative side of coil, if the light does not flicker when turning the motor over your coil needs replaced

A fully charged 12 volt automobile battery will read 12.6 volts with the engine not running and 13.5 to 15.5 volts with the engine running. It will read 12.4 volts with a 75% charge, 12.2 volts with a 50% charge and 12.0 volts indicates a 25% charge.

If it is the ignition switch and not the key tumbler assembly , it takes a Phillips screwdriver and a #10 torx with the hole in the center, remove the under dash cover and the bottom half of the steering column cover with the Phillips, then use the torx to remove the retaining screw from the ignition switch. Unplug and replace! the unit is located on the left of the steering column under the blinker switch. They average around thirty dollars after market. If it is the key cylinder, you would follow the same instruction except for removing the ign switch, turn the key to the on position and push in the retainer on the bottom then pull out ! I just did this to my daughter's 98 with a little help from a pipe wrench , (it would not go in to the on position) ! The cylinder is not offered after market and dodge wants 80 or 90 dollars for it so I took it to a local lock smith and they rebuilt it for $28.00 Good Luck ! -------------------------------- I tried the answer above with no luck. My key wouldn't go into the on position either, in fact the key wouldn't move at all. All I ended up was denting the crhome-like plate on top of the key cylinder with the pipe wrench. I guess I didn't want to apply so much force not to make matters worse. I ended up calling the locksmith, who, to my surprise, solved it in less than a minute! And here I offer you the cheapest solution. What he did was to take the key off the keychain, insert it in the cylinder as usual, and then insert the thin end of a file (a common tool for locksmiths) through the hole of the key and use it as a lever. Then he started shaking it quickly and vigorously -obviously not enough strenght as to break the key- taking it in and out, and shaking back and forth several times, until it actually turned!! Once it turns you press on the retainer and pull the cylinder out. Then take it to the locksmith and you can save big bucks on the rebuilding and the having the locksmit go to where the car is.

first i would check your coil, if its good, check your ignition switch.

there are many things that can cause this problem. bad spark plugs / wires bad alternator ignition problems loose or corroded battery conection incorrect timing

Starter solenoid is not making contact to turn starter motor. Replace starter or solenoid(which is on the starter)

!st try the battery posts. look and see if tight and clean... same thing happened to me i tightened it ,and the caddy started right up

It could be that the starter or solenoid is in a bind after the engine warms up. Metal expands and contracts with temperature. This is only a solution if it starts when cold which would be the first time it is started. Try starting it cold then shut it off before it gets hot then see if it will restart. If it won't start when hot maybe try replacing the starter. Hope that helps you out.

Your 2001 Ford Explorer uses a key that has chip in it called a transponder (as you know). This chip has a mathematical formula that is used to answer a numeric question that your car generates. If the answer is correct the car's computer allows you to start the car. (A Simple Example: what is 5 multiplied by X?) The transponder and car both know that X = 2 so the chip responds with the answer 20, and the car, knowing the answer is correct, starts. This all happens in about a tenth of a second. There is also about a billion possible answers to the cars question, so if you use the wrong key, it will give the wrong answer, and the car will not start. So, to answer your question: If the key turns in the door and the ignition that it is working mechanically, but the transponder part is broken. If the key does not turn in the lock, the mechanical part of the key (the cuts on the key or the wafers in the lock) are not working properly. Either way, a Locksmith in your area should be able to help you out.

check for fuel pressure, should be around 50 psi. try getting someone to bang on the bottom of the gas tank while cranking, might get it going to determine if its the pump

[check your starter. that was the problem with mine. 94 G20] Original Answer

We just fixed my sister's '95 G20 start problem and ours was a recessed pin in a connector in the starter relay wire (the small wire that's attached to the starter). but there are a few tests you can do;

1. This one is simple: make sure everything is hooked up like you were going to start it on a normal day, then turn your headlights on and try to start it. If it sounds like it tries and the headlights dim (even a little) it's likely a dead battery. if there's a click/no click and then nothing and headlights don't dim, you've got an open somewhere in the starter circuit.

2. If the engine cranks over no problem, but just won't start firing and driving itself, you've likely got either a dead fuel pump or a clogged fuel line/filter.

3. have someone listening under the hood when you turn the key to the on position to make sure the clutch inhibitor relay is clicking (should click once when the key is turned to the on position).

If you're a Do-It-Yourselfer, here's some solutions you can try. If not, take it to a mechanic and tell him/her your findings and let them go from there.

1. If you have a multimeter/voltmeter and ohmmeter, you can investigate an open fairly easily-BE CAREFUL with the voltmeter test as you will have to have the battery plugged in. start by pulling the starter fuse (if it's like my sister's, it'll be tucked underneath the front driverside quarter panel under the hood, (should be able to access it just behind the battery). you can do an ohm test on the fuse itself to make sure it's good (if it's not transparent, otherwise just look at the metal arch inside it to see if it's separated). then a voltage test with the red lead in one side of the fuse plug and the other on the negative side of the battery or a good ground like the frame or the engine; you should get 11.9v-12.4v. (if you don't get voltage try moving the red lead to the other side of the fuse plug). Do you get voltage? Yes: your issue is farther down the line, closer to the starter motor. No: you have an open between your battery and the fuse. continue testing this way all the way to the starter motor. once on the other side of the ignition switch you can switch to ohm testing, just make sure the key is in the OFF position or you'll fry your tester. Here's a couple wiring diagrams for manual or automatic transmission:

You have to slip a plastic strap used for banding skids,etc. through the window and wrap it around the door lock. Pull it tight and up at the same time. This will unlock the door. Do not pry to hard on the window when you slide the strap down the window to the lock.