Car Starting Problems

go to autozone or VIP and ask to see the starter for your car in there are instructions with a diagram that may help you. sorry that is the best i can do wolverine

Hey Deborah==Remove the neg battery cable then the wires on the solonoid. Then take out the 2 bolts that hold it on. goodluckJoe

Disconnoct the negative battery terminal. After the car is up on appropriate support so one can work under it, the four bolts, 10MM, that hold the torque converter cover on must be remover and the cover removed. Then, put blocking or a small hydraulic floor jack under the starter and remove the front bolt that holds the heat shield to the starter. Then remove the two bolts,15MM, on the gear end of the motor. Slowly lower the starter down until the wiring can be removed. Be careful the stud(s) stays in place when the nut is removed. (Also when re-installing the new starter). Reverse the process to install the new starter.

There are a few checks that can be done to verify this.

Although some safety precautions are strongly advised, before attempting these procedures:

* Ensure the hand-brake is applied. * Ensure that the car is in Neutral, or Park (if Automatic). * Ensure that the Ignition Key has been removed from the Ignition Switch. Firstly, check the heavy duty cable connecting the solenoid to the battery, for continuity.

Using a jumper cable, connect the starter-motor directly to the battery. If you hear it spin, then it's OK. If not, then the starter-motor itself has burnt out and will need to be replaced. As most cars since the 1970's use the Pre-Engaged type Starter, where the motor and solenoid are built into a common unit, there's generally no need to proceed any further.

To check the solenoid, remove the terminal connection from the Ignition Switch and connect directly to the battery. If the solenoid is OK, you will hear a click, this can be quite loud so there's little chance of missing it. No click indicates that the solenoid is not working. On Pre-Engaged Starters, this unfortunately means that the whole unit must be replaced.

Next, check that there isn't a path to earth, caused by the cable connecting the low tension side of the solenoid to the Ignition Switch, grounding. Also check this wire for continuity. The rest of the starting circuit can be checked, by working backwards checking for interruptions in the supply of power from the battery.

I have a problem with a Ford Focus once that left us stranded in the supermarket parking lot. It would turn over but would start. Come to find out the key we were using (had the chip in it) went bad somehow. We got the other key from home and it started fine. Does this vehicle have a antitheft deterent system in it? Try this and maybe contacting the service center at the local Chevy dealership for advice. Maybe you anti theft system is malfuncting. I hope this helps you. Worth a shot. not enuff information in your question to diagnose anything about why your engine will not start

can a starter be removed from the top on a 98 Nissan sentra gxe

The relay and fuse are probably on the firewall, under the hood. Occasionally GM puts it behind a plastic cover. Fuel pump gets 12 volts, but it is turned off once the pressure is built and if the computer determines that the engine isn't running within a few seconds.

An immobilizer / immobilizer is an electronic device that is fitted to a vehicle to prevent the engine from running unless the correct or authorized user is present. It uses a Driver ID via walk-up or walk away Fob with RFID technology. It also prevents the vehicle from being hotwired after entry has been achieved. It is not a GPS system, but can be integrated with many GPS systems to offer enhanced features.

· Immobilizers became a mandatory requirement for any vehicles entering into Canada in September 2007 (Standard 114). Immobilizers have been mandatory in all new cars sold in Germany since January 1998, United Kingdom in October 1998, Finland in 1998, and Australia since 2001.

· Early models used a static code in the ignition key (or key fob) which was recognized by an RFID (Radio Frequency Identification) loop. If the code was unrecognized, the multi circuit immobilizer would disallow ignition to take place. Current models of immobilizers use rolling codes or advanced cryptography to defeat copying of codes.

Many newer vehicles are equipped with immobilizers at the factory. Several kinds of after-market immobilizers are also available. But not all immobilizers are created equal.

The transponder is a radio frequency chip located in the key or key fob. When the chip is near the ignition, it sends a signal that deactivates the immobilizer, allowing the vehicle to start. The vehicle will not start without that signal. That means that when you walk away from your vehicle with the key or key fob, the immobilizer is armed and your vehicle cannot be started.

Some immobilizers house the de-activation system in the steering wheel column. In addition, many iimmobilizers only disable one system in a vehicle, while best in class immobilizers must disable three.

Many factory installed immobilization systems are electronic and function in conjunction with the vehicle computer (PCM/ECM). The electronic and ignition only systems tend to be ineffective against professional car thieves. Best in class 3 circuit systems, when properly installed, act as an effective deterrent to theft.

Other than the normal mechanical issues to check (low/no battery charge, bad starter, etc), you might want to double check the alarm system.

I had a problem where my 92 would not start on it's own with a full battery, not even engage the starter; but if you jumped it, it started fine. What we traced it back to was the stock alarm, it either had a short or some low voltage starter kill that kept the starter from getting juice.

Once I had the alarm yanked out for $150 the car reliably started, and I didn't have to deal with the occasional alarm going off and being ignored by everyone.

PS if anyone wants a stock 92 alarm give me ring ;)

The knob you pull out is attached to the switch. To get the switch out, you will have to remove the panel underneath the dash, and some of the HVAC ductwork that runs underneath. Disconnect the battery. On the back of the switch, under the dash, there will be a little button you will have to push in to get the switch's shaft & knob to release from the switch. After that is done, you will be able to pull off the trim going around the face of the dash. It should just snap on. Then there will be a nut holding the switch to the dash. Remove the nut, the switch will come out the back, and then you can unplug it. Replace in reverse of these directions, only leave the swith shaft/knob for last. It will just push back into the new switch.

Please supply engine type/size and whether auto/manual trans. If you are talking about the manual transmission model, the switch is located on the bracket holding the clutch pedal.Since it is activated by depressing the pedal it is situated at the base of the pedal where it pivots and can be adjusted by loosening a screw in the back to make it more or less sensitive.But remember, this is a safety feature so think twice before making any changes. For the automatic model, the switch is located on the transmission case itself where the gear shifter is connected.Jack up the vehicle safely, ask a friend to move the gear shifter up and down thru park,drive, etc. and look at the side of the transmission housing: the switch is located in a plastic case where the manual gear lever causes the transmission to shift.There may be two or more wires hooked up to it.

Attached to the starter. behind the instrument cluster. go under the dash and look to the left sided of the steering column. you will see a junction block with a 7mm screw head in the middle. it will be right above that. it is called a starter enable relay.

On the bottom side of the engine( front of the car) just below the exhause manifold. It is easiest to remove the mounting plate from the body of the engine, as balancing the coils on the module as you remove and insert screws if a real pain in the but. If anyone has any suggestions on waterproofing this area, I would greatly appreciate it, as I have gone through three of these modules in three years due to water getting into it and shorting the module out. This last time it was a coolant leak around a seal on the top of the water pump, spraying right into the module that caused it. Argh!

i assume there is no clicking sound??? possible causes could be a faulty igntion switch, try hitting under the steering column where your ignition key goes in, give it some real good hard hits, and try, if it cranks/starts, you have a faulty ignition switch, if not, you may have a blown fuse, a bad battery, or a bad starter, generally speaking, alot of clicking, means a faulty battery, one click, or few clicks means faulty starter,

with today cars there are several relays which are used to send electricity to certain parts of your electrical system, such as a fuel pump relay, or a starter relay. one thing i tell people to do is have some one try to start your car with the lights on if the lights go off while trying to start the battery is dead . if the lights stay lit with very little dimness then you have a starter problem.

Could be loose or dirty battery terminals, bad cable, starter solenoid. load test battery just because it has 12 volts does not mean there is enough amps to turn over check corroded terminals especially side terminals pull them off and pull bolt out and check both sides for corrosion

Maybe you need to check the oil

The oil light will stay on until the engine starts. If the oil light was on when it was running and now it will not start then you may have internal engine damage. Take it to a professional.

Follow the cable from the solonlid to the starter and simply take the bolts out and remove it. once you find the starter there will be 3 bolts one on the passenger side 15mm one on the driver side 13 mm and on the driver side there will be a 13 mm nut holding on a ground wire remove the nut and then remove the 13mm stud disconnect the 2 wires connected to the solenoid 1 spade connector and 1 10 mm i think pull the starter to the left and slide it over the front crossmember.

After testing the coil for proper resistance and finding they had the proper values, I swapped them from one side to the other. The coil with no spark still had no spark. A new coil was installed, problem solved.

First, check the easy things.

0. Are you SURE, absolutely SURE, you have gasoline in the tank?

1. Is the fuel pump fuse OK? If not, you need to investigate WHY it blew before replacing.

2. If the fuse is OK, check the fuel pump relay. In a 95, you can swap it with a similar, known good relay from the relay box. You could also remove the cover of the relay and watch to see if it is 'pulling in' to close the contacts. Also, inspect the contacts for corrosion or pitting. Replace the relay if this is the case.

3. Get underneath and see if you can hear the fuel pump running when it's supposed to be (a few seconds before/during cranking). If not, check the connectors, wiring and so forth leading to the pump.

4. If you've gotten to this point, it's likely your fuel pump needs replacement. To check this, you can connect a pressure gage to the test port on the fuel rail and see if the pump is meeting specs. A more dangerous way to check is to release the fuel line feeding the injector rail and place it in a glass container (Mason Jar?) SECURELY, and while an assistant cranks it over to run the fuel pump, see if fuel is being supplied. If not, brace yourself for an expensive replacement part. If so, you may have a problem with your PCM or the wiring to the injectors. This is less likely.

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Sounds like the battery has gotten weak. If the battery has been replaced recently maybe the alternator isn't charging it up. Some auto parts houses will load test the battery for you and tell you if it is weak. They can also check to see if it is charging the battery while it is running.

Your security system is malfunctioning and putting your Suburban in a temporary lock down. It is shutting down your engine right after start each time. In a few hours it will reset and allow you to start your Suburban again. Needs a new distributor cap. May be a loose fuel pump electrical connection. Located on top of the fuel tank. Requires dropping the tank to access and inspect.

i have 89 gle it was doing the same thing , and it was the fuel injetor relay (black 1 undre the hood) I have a 1991 740 which suffers from no start when hot (engine turns fine). Apparently, and this is from a Volvo trained mechanic I'd trust with my life, the fault in these earlier models lies with the fuel pump relay (which he's replacing in a few days). The relay lies behind and slightly above the fuses which are accessed from behind the ashtray, and in an emergency may respond by being tapped a couple of times. Otherwise wait for around 20 minutes and try again.

it probably has air in the fuel line i would turn the key to the run position then bleed the air out of the shrader valve located on the fuel rail ( it looks like a tire valve stem ) then try to start if that dosent work i have seen some Cherokees that you had to use starter fluid to get them to start then they act normal and start on their own after that.

The current passed through them was too high. Possibly they are cheap cables, (many of them on the market today.) - Cables should be at least 10 gauge wire. Mine are 6. The thicker wire, the better quality your cables are. Anything thinner than 12 gauge is dangerous,.

The starter is located on the top of the engine, on the driver's side under the intake manifold. You remove the rear manifold mounting bracket to get to it.