Check Engine Light

Because you have an engine problem. Take it to AutoZone, or NAPA, and they will check it for free. To reset the computer, disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal and turn the headlight switch on, then back off, and reconnect the battery about 30 minutes later. If there is no problem, the light will stay off. If there IS a problem, it will come back on.

An intake mixture of that is low on fuel signifies a "system to lean," condition causing your check engine light to come on. This is mechanical condition needing to be corrected because when lean predetonation - or engine damaging knocking can occur.

I just had the same problem. After reading posts about cylinder head, and/or valve issues, I took my car into the dealer to check out the check engine light that went on last night. My problem? The gas cap seal had a wrinkle in it, allowing air into the system. Check that out before going to extremes. I'll do that next time, before spending $135 to tell me the gas cap wasn't on right.

This is apparently a common Aveo problem. Even when that cap seal looks good and you swear you clicked in on right, it still will trigger the check engine light. Take the cap off, check the seal, replace the cap correctly and it should reset the light. It might take a while and you may have to repeat a few times but it should eventually come around.

My gas cap was loose. I closed it, drove around the block and the light was gone.

In order to reset the service engine soon light in any newer model car including this one, you need to be able to clear the codes stored by the OBD-II computer controlling your car. These codes are what causes the light to go on. The only way to do this is by plugging a code reader into the data port located underneath your dashboard above the brake pedal. A code reader is about the size of a palm pilot and costs about as much, so your best bet is trying to find a place that will read your code for free. I believe NAPA or a related autoparts place does this. Make sure you find out what the problem is before you clear the code. It could indicate something serious. Good luck

Another way you can turn off your check engine light is by disconnecting the positive battery terminal for a couple minutes and then reconnect. This will shut the light off but if the fault is still present the light will come back on

You need to replace your spark plug wires!! You can check this by spraying water on your spark plug wires when it is dark. Then start your engine and you should see the wires arc and your engine will be running rough just as it does when it rains or after a rain. Good Luck

Generally that means that the engine has "thrown a code", meaning that you need to plug in a code reader to find out what the onboard computer is trying to tell you. Many of the auto parts stores have code readers that you can use at their premises but depending on the year and make of the vehicle it might be worth your time to buy a code reader to figure out what's going on. Please note that the above is not correct, if a check engine light is blinking you are experiencing an engine misfire. This is universal with all obd2 vehicles.

"TC" symbol means "traction control", in other words it's trying to keep you from slipping when you try to go. If that light is constantly on, and the check engine light is on, it's PROBABLY telling you that there is something wrong with the traction control system, perhaps a faulty or disconnected wheel sensor.

well I read about this happening somewhere else I cant really recal it but from what I remember the o2 sensors where changed and then there is a problem in the wiring with o2 sensors

The check engine light comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle.

Generally, a check engine light is lit when there is a problem in the emissions or somthing that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions.

replace the bad sensor and it will turn off.

The cam sensor is inside the distributor and tells the computer the rotational location of the camshaft.

That would be your check engine light. Your best bet is to take it to autozone and ask if they can read what "code" made that light come on. They can even turn it off for you, but beware, it may come back on if you do not fix the problem that made that light come on for you in the first place.

Checking codes at autozone should be free. Napa, Pep boys (not recommended), and other auto part stores should be able to "scan" your car for "codes" for free. If they ask for a fee to check, walk away

Trouble code P0125 means:Insufficent coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to a parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

This sounds like a misfire. The computer recognized this as a potential fatal problem and it is not. I would have the plugs and wires checked....have Autozone run diagnostics on your car and the specific cylinder will be identified.

Good Luck

First, if it is something like a loose gas cap, just tighten it and it will reset itself in the next 100 miles or so. If it is something else, like a leaky gas cap it will never reset. But to reset the OnBoardDiagnostic (OBD)Computer... Go to eBay and search "obdII" and buy one, they run about $50.00 including shipping. There are two types, ISO for Chrysler and some Japanese, and the other one for all the others like Ford and GM. There are several that are both, that is the kind you want. Be sure to email the eBay seller and ask if it is used with your year and model. (1996 was a changeover year for OBDII technology, so this advice may not apply to everybody--but the dealer service guy can tell you over the phone--ask him if it is OBDII compliant.) When you get it, you just plug it in and let it cycle 4 or 5 times and it resets everything. You then have to drive your car for 50 to 100 miles for the onboard computer to test everything, and in the meantime your car will fail smog checks because it has no history in the computer and the smog test procedure demands a history even if there is no pollution. Cut and Paste http://search.ebay.com/OBDII for a list of them for sale on eBay. Most units come with a list of generic fault codes so you can tell what the problem is, this could be very helpful.

On the west coast the Auto Zone parts stores lend OBD II diagnostic tools. You pay for the tool when you take it, your money is fully refunded when you return it, net cost zero.

The OBD II connector on a 96 Honda is hidden behind the ash tray under the radio. This is a very easy check for anyone to do. Don't be afraid to plug it in, turn on the car, and read the codes.

You can do it!

With firm handshake, Raleigh

That usually means there is a "stored code". When the computer detects an engine "fault" a code is stored that can tell you what's wrong. Use a code scanner and find out what's wrong. If you repair the problem, the light will go off.

Check Engine light comes on due to a wide range of possible problems, often automatically disabling the cruise control, leaving it blinking. The problems can range from sensor issues (MAF, Oxygen Sensors, Etc.) to a loose gas cap, to condensation, to a loose connector on a sensor, perhaps even a dying battery, a flaky alternator or a faulty battery terminal connection. It is a catch-all problem indicator. If you are lucky, you can simply reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a minute, and the Check Engine light will be gone and cruise control will work. If the error persists, you need to get the error code (if you do not have a code reader or accesspoint, stop by Autozone or somewhere similar and get them to read it for you) see what the error is, and fix the problem. Simple? Hopefully it's not something more troublesome, bad injector, etc.

I think you are referring to the Universal OBD (or OBD2) test port. This is

the plug under the dash that you plug the OBD code tester into.

It may also be referred to as the 16-Pin Data Link Connector (DLC).

Hi, I was told that if you fill the gas tank while the car is running, the check engine light may come on, it will go off after a while of driving. I had the same intermittant problem.....

"TPS" = Throttle Position Sensor. It's the sensor that tells the computer how far your foot is into the throttle. It should be connected to the butterfly valve that opens to allow more air into the engine.

If NJ has an emissions standard, no. You'll have to repair whatever is wrong before the vehicle will pass emissions.

It is blinking because there is a problem in the emmissions that is causing damage to the catalytic converter. I had this happening and it turned out to be a final warning before the fuel line broke.

PO403 Is rather generic. It simply means that the circuit has failed somehow. This means that the connector on your Exhaust Gas Recircultion sensor could have simple come off. I recommend that you take this to your Ford dealership. They can pin-point the prblem. They have to fix these types of problems for free for a certain amount of time and mileage. It is a government thing. Hope this helps.