Chevy 305

It is built into the alternator It is all 1 unit. Replace alternator.

yes

It could fry the battery or the electrical system on the vehicles

The #1 spark plug is the furthest forward on the driver's side. Follow that spark plug wire back to the cap and it would be the one you seek. Most of the time it's the tower closest to the #1 plug, but that's not as important as getting the firing order correct.

They look pretty much the same from the outside, so if you're not planning to remove a cylinder head to measure the bore diameter you could try writing down the numbers on the block in front of the passenger side head and looking them up. The numbers are often difficult to read, so you would want some degreaser, a brass brush, a razor blade, a good light, and a magnifying glass.

Here are two websites that can be helpful:

http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php

http://web.archive.org/web/20080518030656/http://www.mortec.com

1980 and newer GM engines are computer controlled which essentially eliminates the need for adjusting the timing. In the event that the distributor has been moved and needs to be reset, consult a Haynes or Chilton's manual to confirm two things:

1. What the timing should be set at (I believe that the Chevy 305 is to be set at 2 degrees BTDC) which will change if you live at a high altitude.

2. What wire should be disconnected to disable the spark advance. (This has the same effect as unplugging the vacuum advance hose on old distributors.

Once you have confirmed where to set the timing and how to disable the spark advance follow these steps.

1. Get the engine up to normal operating temperature.

2. Connect your timing light to the battery and to the #1 plug wire. On a Chevy engine this will be the front driver's side cylinder.

3. Scribe a mark on the base of the distributor and down onto the intake as a reference point in case you need to return the distributor to its "original" position.

4. Loosen the 9/16" bolt that holds the distributor clamp down. This will require a special wrench available at any auto parts store. Loosen this bolt only enough to allow you to spin the distributor with resistance. If it is too loose, you can cause the distributor to spin out of control causing damage to the wires.

5. Locate the timing tab on the timing chain cover. It will be welded to the cover and will be visible if you look straight down between the water pump and the block. You will need to use a rag and cleaner to degrease it so you can see the marks. Yours will likely not have any numbers. If not, the deepest triangular notch is TDC. Each notch represents 2 degrees. Notches to the passenger side are ATDC, notches to the drivers side are BTDC.

6. Spin the crank pulley by hand until you locate the groove. Clean it off as well and mark it with some kind of paint so it is easily visible. If you are needing to install the distributor before setting the timing, remember that the crank pulley comes around twice for wach revolution of the camshaft; once at TDC and once at BDC.

7. Make sure all the wires for the timing light are clear of any belts, pulleys or the fan and start the engine.

8. Shine the light at the timing tab and look for the line on the balancer. Whatever groove on the timing tab the balancer line is showing at indicates where the timing is currently set. Spin the distributor one way or the other to get the line to align with the apropriate notch in the timing tab.

9. Tighten the distributor clamp bolt and recheck the timing.

10. Reconnect the spark advance wire.

NOTE: If the line wanders while shining the light on it, this indicates a worn timing chain and gears. In order to set the timing, these items will need to be replaced. 305s are notorious for excessive wear in the timing sets because they were manufactured with nylon gears at the factory to reduce engine noise. If replacement is required purchase an all steel double roller set which will cost a little more than a standard single roller set, but is much stronger and well worth the extra investment.

8 cylinder, 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2

The torker 2 is a single-plane design, so it won't work as well as a 2-plane such as a Performer or Performer RPM.

8 degrees before top dead center.

I have a 95 I'm having the same trouble with. I've searched numerous forums etc... on how to solve the problem with no specific answer. Hesitation starts just off of idle and ends around 2000 RPM. I have replaced many many things and have maybe narrowed it down to the EGR Valve (not the valve solenoid which I have already replaced). If I disconnect the wire going to the EGR solenoid, to stop the function of the EGR valve, it runs pretty good. But that doesn't mean it's not another problem the ECM is compensating for. Search message boards and you will see this is a common problem among 305 owners. So far no one has found the specific source. Most Common are: EGR Valve, Opti, Coolant temp sensor, IAC sensor, or injectors. It seems as though many differant problems cause the same symptoms. Good luck, and if you find a solution before I do, please let me know. -Dilve

Sorry, But Chevy heads don't have freeze plugs in them. Never did.

The engine block has 8 plugs in it.

2 in the back where the fly-wheel is, 2 on each side of the block, and 2 in the front of the block on both sides of the timing cover. 1 of the plugs on each side of the block is hidden behind the motor mounts. You can't get to the one's on the back of the block unless you remove the transmission or pull the engine out.

Do You have your air intake connected? If not there is a sensor that will shut down your engine check your MAP and MAT sensor I think you might need to check your fuel supply, or your oil pressure sending unit. When the engine shuts down, you try and start the engine by turning the key off and back on, this resets the fuel pump to the 2 second run time before ECM takes over. When the engine is running the ECM looks for oil pressure, if there is no pressure or very little, then the ECM automatically shuts engine down to save it from self destruction of the crank bearings.

it could be a faulty gage or a bad oil pump

Atf is fine for use in power steering except for Honda (requiring Honda fluid), and Audi (requiring mineral 7.1 or 11s) The major difference between atf and p/s fluid is that atf has friction modifers. harmless for hydrulics, nessacary for transmissions to shift smooth.

fuel leak is very possible

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were you parked over leaves?

the cat gets very hot.

68 SS El Camino's have a VIN starting with 13880.....68 was the first yearthe SS was offered and is the only year the SS 396 was a unique model. All subsequent years, the SS was a RPO.

I believe it is a draining bolt, and easier way to drain or flush the coolant from the cooling system.

go to autozone.com hit the vehicle repair guides link, you will find the link at the bottom right hand corner of the page. you will need to know the year,make & type of vehicle but you will find the information you need at this site.

All Chevrolet V8 are the same. Left bank is 1,3,5,7 and the right bank is 2,4,6,8. The firing order is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2.

No because the ports on a tbi head are different than the ports on a vortec head, vortec heads need a vortec intake however you can switch a carburated engine to a tbi engine because the heads are the same

There is 8 on that engine. There's 2 in the back of the block, 2 on each side of the block and 2 in the front of the block.

yes- only if no compter is present in the car/truck . o2 sensers gage the air-fuel mix. I own two 305 engines, you have to by-pass these if you want your car/truck to run strong..

yes....simple job

The question is too vague for a complete answer. A factory service manual can be invaluable for researching an older vehicle.

Yes, but I don't know why you would want to use them on a 350. 305's are limited as far as valve size is concerned because their small bore causes clearance problems with the large valve heads... Larger valves will actually hit the block on a 305. Just about ANY 350 head is better than ANY 305 heads.