Chevy Astro

Fuel Pump. Test For Fuel. Sound As If All Else Is Working Check for and replace any and all bad fuses. Check for fuel leaks. Check for trouble codes in the computer.

its next to the thermastat

but you'll have to remove the air duct, the upper radiator hose, and this type support metal thing which helps support the air compressor to the engine

make sure you release the plastic tab on the e. g. r. electrical connector with a vere small screw driver, wiggeling to help it off

than just 2 -10 millimeter bolts

you may want to get a new gaskett too, clean both surfaces first.

smoking reefer

is smoking marijuana / cannabis.

reefer is another word for cannabis.

'ey rudeboy, set that reefer here'

Check your fuses. Your owner's manual will show you where the fuses are. Replace any that are "blown," that is, no longer conducting electricity. You can tell faulty fuses of the type in your Astro by looking at the loop of metal in the fuse. If it is broken, the fuse has blown. You can buy an assortment at any auto parts store. If the fuse continues to blow, you will have to research the cause. If you are not comfortable working on your van, or if you don't know about automotive electrical components, you will have to find a competent mechanic. Researching automotive electrical problems can take hours, although many are quickly solved. Mechanics will tell you how much they charge per hour; that may motivate you to fix the problem yourself, or you could take a long-term view and just chalk up the charge to the cost of possession of a vehicle.

8000 pounds

165432

pull out the outer edges of the door panel. then take out the screw behind the door handle. there are 2 screws under the armrest you need to take out. after all that is done pll door panel towards you and lift up. then take out the four screws around the speaker and put it all back together doin all this in reverse.

I had the same problem with my '97 Astro van, the plastic vacuum line from the PCV valve to the vacuum cannister underneath the front end had broken. It might not be that vacuum line, but you do have a vacuum leak somewhere.

you should be able to find the fuse at your local pepboys. just buy it pop your hood and remove the fuse cover to the right of your engine compartment and there you will find the fuse usually the white, leftmost fuse ****WRONG INFO HERE****simply pop it out with a flathead s. driver or a fuse removal tool (supplied with fuse sometimes).***

****It's actually harder than that. Remove the fuse cover and it will be on the left, only fuse that says 120. You will need to take off four nuts (not bolts) that are facing up vertically. Then remove the yellow cables that are underneath that. The fuse box will be able to lift up. Turn it over as much as possible to look at the bottom side. The last and hardest step is to remove the bolts that are horizontally holding onto the 120 fuse. These are a pain to get to, one more so than the other. Just use a wrench since a socket wont fit in the tiny space! Then replace the fuse and replace the pesky screws and fuse cover.******

Anything can be done with a welder, but the bolts do not lineup.

I'm 6'2" and weigh 130 lbs, so I've had to gain a lot of confidence to go out shirtless. I think the best way is to start sleeping without a shirt to get used to it, then lounge around the house in a sleeveless shirt. If you have to go out to take out the trash or something, don't put a shirt on, go out with what you're wearing. Eventually you'll have confidence to go out without thinking about it. That worked for me, but the best thing has taken me a while to learn: don't care about what other people may be thinking about you. If they don't like it, that's their problem, not yours. Don't worry about it.

Yes, it can cause low/unstable idle or die off at idle.

I remove the fuel pump fuse or relay while the engine is running. The engine will run until the pressure has dropped. Leave the fuse or relay out until you have finished replacing the fuel filter.

The answer depends on what type of magnetic sensor you are speaking of.

One type might be a reed switch. In the presence of a magnetic field the switch changes state, either opened to closed or closed to open. I'd consider this one the simplest type of sensor. Either the field is strong enough to cause the state change or it isn't.

Another type I'd consider to be more of a transducer. According to physics' proof and the ideas of a guy from long ago named Faraday, a changing magnetic field (this field is also said to be in a state of "flux" when changing) in the presence of a conductor will induce a voltage proportional to the rate of change of the field.

Mathematically stated this is written as

e = k do/dt

where e is the voltage induced, k is a constant of proportionality, and do/dt (the derivative of phi, o, with respect to time) is the rate of change of the flux.

(Note: o is supposed to be the Greek letter phi, but I haven't a convenient means of entering it, and I don't remember the ASCII code.)

Anyway, so this e voltage that's developed can be measured with a voltmeter or via an oscilloscope and is proportional to the rate of change of the magnetic field. Rarely would a magnetic field remain constant. Therefore, one can always expect some amount of potential to be developed no matter how small.

However, you may be asking, 'but what about the field itself. How would the field's strength be detected?'

The do/dt in the above equation is the key. Just the same way that o can be differentiated (called "taking the derivative" of) to obtain do/dt, do/dt can be integrated (the opposite/inverse of differentiation) to obtain o. However, it should be understood that there must be a time period involved, because integration is, simply stated, the area under the curve. You can't have an area without a width. Therefore, when integrating we're taking a bunch of infinitessimally small-width rectangles and summing them over a period of time (because time is the independent variable in the above equation and not something else.)

So, leaving the Calculus aside except for the above equation, the way the magnetic field is detected is the voltage e that's developed must then be applied across a load. For example, we could just measure it with a voltmeter, but that voltmeter itself is a load, a very high resistance load. When that load is applied, a current flows due to more physics and the theories of another guy long before television named Ohm (if there is a closed loop for the current to flow in.)

Ohm's Law (actually, I'm pretty sure it's still a theory, but they call it a law) states:

voltage = current x resistance

or

e = i x r

or

The potential, e, developed across a resistance is proportional to the current flowing through the resistance. (Notice that e gets larger as i gets larger?)

Hence, rearranging Ohm's Law to solve for i we have (and I'm going to write the equation downward this time):

e

=

ir

therefore

e

--

r

=

ir

--

r

therefore

i

=

e

--

r

So (saying it like a normal person now) we have

i = e/r

What this says is we can produce a current proportional to the voltage developed by applying that voltage across a load.

Hence, to sense the strength of the magnetic field, we can integrate the rate of change of the flux over time, or, if we're only interested in whether the field is present or not, we can read the voltage developed whenever the field changes. Either way we have sensed the magnetic field.

There's one other way to sense a magnetic field and it's by way of another phenomenon of physics called "The Hall Effect." However, I regret that I don't remember enough about it to explain it very well. In a nutshell, a voltage is developed in the presence of a magnetic field within (usually) a semiconductor material by the magnetic force causing drifting positive charges to go one way and negative charges to go the opposite way thus producing a difference of potential across the material. That difference of potential is called the "Hall voltage" or "Hall emf" (electromagnetic force, voltage). However, with this short explanation I really do not do Edwin Hall (another guy who didn't watch tv) justice. And I'd really appreciate it if someone more knowledgeable will post an update to this answer which does explain it.

die

A

Would likely be caused by a lack of fuel, lack of air, or lack of spark.

disconnect the battery for 1 minute and it will reset.

My 2000 averages 17.5 mpg. Astroman

It happened to my van a long time ago, after I loosened the gas tank cap, it never happened again. I guess the ventilation or gas tank cap malfunctioned so no air was let in. You can try this one. .

Fuse, or fuel pump relay. check to see if power is reaching the fuel pump conecter just be for it goes into the tank if no power check the relay and the fuese if good check for spark if no spark try the crank shaft sensor and cam shaft senor it may have a low oil shout off sensor

Inside the alternator itself

It depends on your mechanic, and what he charges for his services. I want to know why you wish to replace the head. Are you sure it is beyond repair? Is the head cast steel or aluminum? Hard to answer your question w/o full knowledge of the problem. I would guess the cost at or about 450-900 dollars.

It always gets back to fuel, ignition and compression. If you're getting all 3, it will start. If it's not starting, find out which is missing. Start with a little starting fluid while someone attempts to start the engine. If it starts briefly, it's a fuel problem.