Chevy Astro

Depends on the car... If you can see the injectors, you'll need to disconnect the wiring harnesses from the injectors... (there is also usually a boot over the injector). You then need to disconnect the injector from the fuel rail. (careful not to strip the little fitting). You can then use a wrench or injector socket to remove the injector. Make sure you replace the gaskets and seals when installing the new injectors. (might need teflon tape around the pipe fitting where the injector feeds from the fuel rail).

Ok, jack up the front end of the truck and sit in on jack stands placed on the from crossmember (not the LCA), take off the tires, it makes it so much easier, next use a ball joint clam, or a 5 ton two jaw gear puller and use it to take tension off the torsion key bolt, take out the bolt and remove the thing the bolt bolted into with a pair of pliers, your probably going to have to pound on the end of the t-bar to slid it out.

he's a link to a Very well done how for torsion bar removal (it's written for chevy's but the same concept is for all trucks and cars with front torsion bar suspension).:

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/offroad/65871-ford-keys-torsion-bar-cranking-replacing-tech.html

I deffinitily suggest reading that thread, lots of good info

Beside the battery you'll see a large black box with words stating "remove this to service air breather". The air filter is not IN this box, but you have to remove it to get to what the air filter is in. To remove this box, remove the two bolts that secure the box to the front of the vehicle, then remove the small hose that is stuck in the left side of the box. Then, there are two large, corrugated hoses that come into the back and bottom of the box; leave these hoses attached to the box, but loosen the hose clamps that secure these two hoses to the rest of the engine so that you can then remove the box with the two large hoses entirely from the vehicle. Now that the box is out of the way, look down into the hole to the right. There is a black rectangular plastic cover standing vertically; the air filter is inside this cover, also standing vertically and facing the right side of the vehicle. This plastic cover has two clips on the far side that hold it shut. Flip those two clips away from you, and the plastic cover will hinge open, with the opening away from you and toward the back of the vehicle. You can remove the plastic cover entirely if you wish; the hinged side (closest to you) is just some holes that fit over tabs in the air filter holder. Once the plastic cover is out of the way, you can see the air filter inside; pull it out and replace. Then replace cover, re-clip the clips and so on and so on.

does the lock on the passenger door still work? if nothing from either door then check every fuse on the car. if all fuses are good then check the power door lock relay in the right front kick panel. if not that then remove door panel and check if the motor will work with direct current to the lock.

1-3-5-7-2-6-5-4-8, with the Passenger side bank being 1-2-3-4 front to back and the Driver's side is 5-6-7-8.

There is no timing adjustment on fuel injected models the ignition timing is set by the ECU . Regards:

1991 Chevy Astor Van 6cyl the pulley below alternator isn't moving can I bypass it or is ity important. Joezilla

if it is open, a spoiler!

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The liftgate

to rear of the intake manifold (top side,rear of engine),it connects to the engine end of the big black plastic pipe coming from the big black square air box ,hard to see but its closer to the firewall side of the engine compartment .

It is a 4.3 Liter V6 so it has 6 cylinders.

Yep. When the wire is cold, the current flows from the battery to the starter very easily. As things get hot, the resistance in the wire becomes so great, and the current needed to crank the engine is so high, it just cannot push enough current to the starter until the wire cools down again.

That's the cause. I suggest you go explain it to someone at Pep Boys for the cure, because other than replacing the wire to the starter I have no cure for you. Maybe that IS the cure.

Phil

there is no emergency shut off,unless you pull the fuel pump fuse,only fords have inertia switches.why is that important?

It was a very popular cartoon on TV when I was a kid and the theme song- with different verses and often parodies- likewise- I like the Parody ( sounds like a song for the KGB, at least the Hollywood=ized KGB_ verse two: Overdrive: Cut-in ( High), Strange Nude Girls you Espy! Pana-Celled, ( a type of battery by Panasonic) Jet=-Propelled, with your strobe light eye flashing by! get this- Down the Basement we go,will you fight, friend or foe! what can I do, to be like you, become one of Katherine"s Good Boys!

Very popular, and he still is!

It is just below the throttle body. Follow the air intake from the filter to the tb. It is cylindrical in shape and has a 5 wire connector. You can see it in mine without removing the air intake ducting.

If the work is to be done by Saturn, Expect to Pay between $1100.00 and $1250.00

I am doing the same project, just picked up the headgasket and headbolts from O'Reilly for $42. I'm waiting to see how bad the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets are before I spend the $7apiece for new ones. I'm broke, lookin to do this as cheap as possible. lol

If your cooling system is full of oil, you'll need to flush the system VERY well with a mild detergent, and then TONS of water to get all the remaining oil and detergent out. If you have oil in the cooling system, Saturn will tell you to replace your radiator/hoses/waterpump. I am not doing this, just am flushing the system throughly. I have done many headgaskets before, and have never had any adverse results from not replacing radiator/hoses/waterpump.

Once you have the cylinder head off, that needs to be planed or resurfaced, to make sure your new gasket will seal properly. This costs $40+tax at engine shops here in WI.

After buying new oil, coolant, the gasket(s), and headbolts, plus the cost to resurface the head, I'll be getting this done for somewhere around $160-$225.

If this is your first time replacing a headgasket, this would be the motor to do it on. The 1.9L single cam is easy to work on, and there's not much to get in your way or make things difficult.

Best of luck!

Curb weight is the weight of the vehicle as it sits, ready to go. Dry weight is the vehicle alone, no fuel.

The arm rest can be removed from the seat on a 1998 F150 by locating the bolts holding it on. Remove the bolts with the proper tool and life the armrest from the seat carefully.

I found the manual at Bob's Manuals. Here is the AstroStart 803U manual.

Leave them up and fix the A/C Take it to a qualified mechanmic Cant diagnose over the computer -- First, check the fuse/circuit breaker under hood or in fuse panel. (see owners manual depending on year)

One thing to check is the splice for ground wire (black) in the flex-boot between door and frame. The door switch only has that one path to ground, and will make your mirrors/windows/lock quit working. If the switches light up (97+), but the windows don't work, then this is not your problem. The other windows also won't work if the harness splice failed, as they see the window lock button as "locked".

Use a test light at the connector to the window controls, there should be 12V between Tan and Black, larger diameter wires. If no voltage, check TAN to Chassis Ground (lighter outlet edge), if no power there, look for fuse or trace back the tan to kick panel. If you have power to chassis ground but not at connector, then check continuity from larger solid black wire in connector to chassis ground.

The splices in the flex boot are a common problem in 90's Jeep Cherokees causing problems from mirrors to speakers. Running a new wire is easier than trying to find/fix the splice.

It might be very simple. You have to check cigarette lighter fuse in fuse box under steering wheel. It's connected with back door lock. If if happens again when you change fuse you might have some electric issue with a lighter.

The small valve on the accumulator (the canister) is wre you put the freon in the 1997 Chevy Astro Vans.

I'm assuming you do not have the owner's manual, because it explains how to do this on page 6-13, so I'll tell you what it says. 1-Move both front seats back as far as they can go. 2-Remove the instrument panel extension ( the thing with the two cup holders and the ashtray ) by removing the two screws on each side at the top of the extension, and the two nuts on the bottom. 3-Grasp the bottom of the extension, lift up, and pull out. 4-Diconnect the connector for the cigarette lighter. Set extension aside. 5-Grasp the top of the heater duct and pull down gently to remove. 6-Remove bolt from engine cover bracket, ( this is about a five inch metal piece at the top right ) loosen the nut on the other side of bracket, and move it out of the way. 7-Lift up on each of the two latches at the bottom of the cover 8-Remove the two screws at the engine cover using a long handled screwdriver. These two screws are on the sides of the cover, about 1/4 of the way from the top. The screws do not come out of the cover, only from the dash. 9-Grasp the bottom of the cover and slide it backwards. Then, lift it up and out of the vehicle. GOOD LUCK

There are many ways you could cure a rough idle. You must first diagnose why the problem started in the first place.

On my 2001 Astro there are 4 bolts from the seat frame to the floor remove the bolts

and the seat is removable (HINT move the middle passenger seat back as far as it can

go and that is easier to remove the seat and frame ..I have done this twice on the 2001

and 3 times on the 1989 I had..