Chevy Avalanche

They have 305 horse. The SS had either 325 or 335.

It was underated at 305 horse power at the factory, but was actually closer to 325.

*** Depending on the trim, Z28 or SS, it made anywhere from 290 to 305rwhp for the Z28 and 305 to 315rwhp for the SS Camaro. ***

When I worked at the local GMC dealership we did the following:

1: Diagnose as collision damage.

2: Order a new tube.

3: Yank the old tube out.

4: Crank the spare tire down.

5: Schedule a return appointment to replace the tube.

230 HP @ 4,600 rpm 285 ft lb @ 2,800 rpm

driver side door jam...If you are sitting in the drivers seat it is where your left elbow would be.

Flush the transmission.....for some strange reason when I had the transmission fluid changed...new filter..etc....the engine hours were reset to 0. Not happy...can't seem to find any info as to why this happened or if it can be fixed.

Just did this last night while replaceing stock speakers. There are 2-bolts that hold the door panel on. 1St bolt bottom hinge side 2Nd bolt between door handle. Remove bolts, lift up on entire door panel, disconect light & window wire harnesses (clip style use flathead screwdriver), then use Allen wrench or appropreiate Allen driver to remove all 4 speaker bolts. To install repeat the same order backwards. Importanat...Be sure your new speaker has enough clearance between window & speaker magnet. Test your window slowly to see if window clears new speaker. Speakers/mids are 5-1/2 inch 140mm. If your window does not clear new speaker/mids then make spacers/washers on 4 mounting bolts between the speaker and the door. I went with the Rockford Fosgate T1625 set up with mids, tweets & crossovers. Sound awesome. Hope this helps.

Check this X-Trail Page.

http://www.runboard.com/baustralianxtrail.f34.t123884

Look for the "Audio Install Series II ST" link. It's not for the Bonnavista edition, but it will be similar.

Approximately 111 hp in stock form.

A lot

that is true but to elaborate depends entirely on what type of engine, and the price of a new one would very on the condition(new, used etc).

E-gunparts.com

click on Winchester then 74 at the top you can buy it for about $1.50

On the left side (Passenger side) there is a box near the front of the vehicle, it will have a flexible hose attached to it. Loosen the four screws and when they are loose enough you will be able to lift the box up, take the old filter out and replace it with the new one. Then place the lid back on and tighten the screws.

need to replace door hindge pins and bushing,how do we get door off safely.

6

The owners manual would have that information.

the reason for the air being warmer on one side than the other is because the mecanism that provide air intake in the ac system has the foam sealer worn out it need a new sealer if you remove the air duck unther the hood you will see the problem on the cap that seal the air that goes in to the car

Trouble code P1682 means: Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2

The listed rating of the 1984 4-cylinder Fiero is : 94hp (if I recall correctly)

12ft pounds

All you have to do is buckle it for a couple of minutes. Then take it off NO BEEP until you restart your truck.

Counter clockwise

Open the fuel filler door and remove the gas cap. Listen at that location while someone turns on the ignition without starting the engine. You should hear the pump run for a few seconds and then shut down. If you hear nothing then either the fuse is blown or the relay is defective. But even if it does run it may not be pumping any fuel. A fuel pressure test at the fuel rail with a FP gauge will verify if it is pumping. Also a clogged fuel filter will cause the engine to not run.

Your dragging something

Please Read at bottom...

It seems kind confusing your answer. Why remove the AC pump if it is on the front area of the engine and the alternator is on the back?

The problem on removing the alternator on this vehicle is on the bracket that seems to lock the CV Axle in place. This bracket is behind the alternator and seems like it has to be removed so the lower bolt holding the alternator can be removed as well. I have my vehicle up and the alternator hanging by it's lower bolt because it can not be removed as it hits the bracket behind the alternator.

I am just getting a technical manual to figure out the proceeds in to remove the bracket behind the alternator and have room to remove the lower bolt holding the alternator. What a better response??? Avoid buying such a difficult car to work with; even changing spark plugs is a hassle on this vehicle, unless you want to have a +- $900.00 spark plug service on a $3000.00 vehicle.

IN ORDER TO CHANGE THE ALTERNATOR YOU WILL NEED TO; DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, REMOVE THE SKID PAN FROM THE UNDERCARIAGE, UNBOLT THE AIR CONDITIONING PUMP FROM ITS BRACKET(FROM UNDER THE CAR) (CAREFULL ITS PROBABLY CHARGED WITH FREON). LET IT HANG. GO TO THE TOPSIDE, UNDER THE HOOD, AND UNBOLT THE THREE NUTS ON THE ALTERNATOR. RMOVE THE STUDS FROM THE BACK SIDE. REMOVE YOUR FREEON HIGH PRESSURE HOSES FORM THE AIRCONDITIONING PUMP.( BE CAREFUL, BECAUSE IT WILL BLOW FREON EVERYWHERE, NOT GOOD FOR THE OZONE, BUT I HAVE NOT MASTERED THE ART OF CATCHING HIGH PRESSURE VAPORS) GO BACK TO THE UNDERCARRIAGE AND REMOVE THE AIR CONDITIONING PUMP. UNBOLT THE BRACKET THAT IT WAS MOUNTED TO BOLTED TO THE ENGINE NEXT TO THE OIL FILTER. NOW YOU CAN DISCONNECT THE FAST CONNECTOR FROM THE ALTRERNATOR, (EASIEST FROM THE TOP SIDE) THE GO BACK TO THE BOTTOM AND UNBOLT THE POWER CABLE FORM THE ALTERNATOR.(ENSURE YOU HAVE ALREADY DISCCONECTED THE BATTERY) GO TO THE PASSENGERS SIDE REACH OVER THE FENDER AND REMOVE THE SERPENTINE BELT. GET UNDER THE CAR REACH UP AND PULL OUT THE ALTERNATOR. IT MAY REQUIRE A LITTLE LEVERAGE DUE TO HOW TIGHT IT FITS IN THE BRACKET. AFTER REASSYMBLY YOU WILL NEED TO GET YOUR AIR CONDITIOINING RECHARGED WITH FREON. ITS R-34 AND YOU CAN PURCHASE THE PRESSURIZED CANS AT MOST AUTOMOTIVE STORES FOR ABOUT THIRTEEN DOLLARS A BOTTLE. GOOD LUCK

There is a much simpler way to replace your alternator. Jackup and brace front passenger side. Remove front passenger tire and the small plastic inner fender panel (4 bolts 10 mm). The alternator is right there. Remove belt and inspect now is the time to replace it if needed. its easiest two remove the two bolts the hold the tensioner on once you have the belt off the tensioner. Your factory tensioner will require pushing on it from the top, an aftermarket one(about 70 bucks) will have the 3/8 fitting for a socket handle. Removing the tensioner is done to feed the belt through easier onto the upper pulley as there isn't much room to push it through attached. With belt removed there are two bolts to remove. remove the upper bolt the take the nut off the lower bolt its easier to loosen the bracket for the upper bolt as well (for reassemble) once you have the upper bolt out and the lower bolt off the bracket molded into the block is slotted gently pry up and wiggle alternator and itll come off with bolt in place. put bolt in the new alternator. you can now rotate the alternator to remove the battery terminsl and the plug. remove alternator and reverse the procedure. remember to tighten the alternator bracket after you have the alternator in place and the top bolt started. its not 100% necesarry to loosen the bracket but it makes lining up the bolt hole on the alternator easier. Absolutely no reason to do anything with the ac pump or any other component.

Ok Having now done this myself I can say that what is directly above is correct.

Honestly this job is not all that difficult. By the way mine is a 2003 with a 2.7L. I am assuming that this is the same for all models from 2001 thru 2006 I believe?

I recommend several other things than above. Move the tensioner, and slide the belt off of the idler pulley. Don't take off the tensioner... Move the tensioner again and remove the belt from the alternator. Then just push the belt up out of the way of the alternator. Much easier for reassembly.

Now there are two key items that no one seems to elaborate on. The back or rear bracket hole in the alternator is slightly larger then the front bracket hole. In the rear bracket hole is a hard plastic grommet that is slotted. This allows the alternator to slop when the nut has been removed. The other really key piece of info is that the bracket itself is completely slotted front to back. This is how the whole thing comes easily apart. Yes some one really did think about this... As soon as you apply some downward pressure at the other bracket, (That's the one that is single and threaded), the entire alternator will almost pop out of the slotted bracket. Once you have it out you can then pivot around some to get a socket on the nut for the charging wire. Assume you know how to get the interlock plug out.

Reassembly is really much easier if you loosen the two bolts in the bracket that the bolt goes through to screw into to the single threaded hole. Alignment is really difficult almost impossible if you don't.

Also have to get my dig in. Shame on you Haynes Manuals for taking the easy out approach and saying, "Space is limited in this area and other parts must be removed to replace the alternator."

Remove clip-on and red wire from back Remove belt by releasing pressure on the auto-pressure arm on passenger side of motor at front, near center at bottom. I used a 2-foot jack lever to push down while a second person removes belt with screwdriver remove 2 bolts holding down the reservoir in front of the lowest bolt on the alternator Remove 3 bolts Reassemble. 2nd' person needed to re-attach belt while i hold down pressure arm. Saved me 400 bucks