Chevy Prizm

abacus was used in 300 B.C by the Babylonians.

(The oldest) always the oldest from long time ago.

first you need to check if your battery is running low and if it is test it to make sure if its not working that means the battery's dead so get a new one. then if its still not working then your product is old so its broken then theres only one thing to do get a new one unless theres some one who can repare it.

with out load testing both starter and battery, its and educated guess for one without experience.

load testing will test the amperage load being used by the starter.

load testing the battery will test the battery amperage output, amperage is what does the work.

a high load test by the starter indicates the starter is working hard to turn the motor over. avg is 225amps. over 300amps and higher, starter is binding.

batteries are rated by cca (cold cranking amps) the higher the # the better rated battery. when cca go down, less amperage is available to turn the starter. amperage is what does the work.

Reach under the bumper cover , and you should feel the wires feel around once you have located the end of the socket twist it and the socket will fall down, then pull the bulb straight out, repeat with the other side

Instrument Panel Lamp Procedure per Prizm Shop Manual This procedure only applies to cars with tilt steering wheels. "Prizms without tilt wheels are infinitely more difficult because you have to disable the airbag system and remove the trim covers from the steering wheel. " not too sure about that...Important: The ignition switch must be in the OFF position when removing the instrument cluster assembly. 1. Tilt the steering column down in order to gain the necessary clearance to remove the instrument panel cluster trim plate. 2. Remove the two screws that secure the instrument panel cluster trim plate. 3. Disengage the two lower clips (hidden) 4. Gently remove the instrument panel cluster trim plate from the instrument panel assembly. and move it into the larger open portion of the steering wheel. Turn sterring wheel to the left and drop it out the bottom. 5. Remove the three screws which secure the instrument panel assembly, pull out the assembly carefully. 6. Mark the the 4 electrical connectors where they connect to the cluster assembly so that you remember which connector went to which socket. Unnecessary7. Disconnect the 4 electrical connectors from the cluster assembly Unnecessary 8. Remove the instrument cluster assembly Unnecessary, shift it out to one side 9. Remove the instrument cluster retainer with the instrument cluster lens attached from the instrument cluster case by releasing the 8 locking tabs. Unnecessary 10. Remove the cluster bulb socket from the instrument cluster case by turning in a counterclockwise direction. Remove the old bulb from the socket. Remove the green rubber boot from the old bulb place on new bulb, insert in socket and replace the bulb. 11. Reverse the procedure to reassemble NOTE: This is such a convoluted procedure you should replace all bulbs while you are this deep into it. Trust me, the other bulbs will soon go bad. Incredibly, the shop manual does not list the part number of the bulb. Note 2: It is easier, and you are less likely to break the trim plate, if this is done while the dash is warm and therfore more flexible. Like parked in the sun for a while before starting. Also, the bulb is a #194, and you will want to get green colored "instrument bulb boots".

How to change spark plugs on a 2001-2002 Prizm:

The manufacturer recommended iridium plugs cost about $10.00 apiece and last about 150,000 miles. The platinum plugs cost about $2.00 apiece and last about 50,000 miles. For the hassle involved in repacing the plugs, Iridium plugs are better

Tools you will need before you start

1. 1/4" ratchet

2. 1/4" extention

3. 10 mm socket, 1/4" drive

4. small flat bladed screwdriver

5. 3/8" ratchet

6. 3/8" long extention

7. 5/8" spark plug socket, 3/8 " drive

8. air compressor with blow gun or can of compressed air

9. long needle nose pliers

10. 1/4" internal diameter rubber hose 8 inches long

11. wire coat hanger

12. neverseez lubricant

Procedure

1. Remove the two 10 mm cap nuts on the top plastic housing over the engine

2. Remove the two fasteners on the back of the housing and remove the plastic cover

3. You will see four plastic blocks with four wire clips on each block.

4. Use compressed air to blow out debris around the blocks

5. Use the small flat bladed screwdriver to carefully lift up on the tab that holds the electrical connector onto the block and slide the wire clip off the block.

6. Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the plastic block onto the engine. Use the needle pliers (I found that a pair with a 5-7 mm tip are best) to firmly grasp the plastic screw and pull straight up to remove it

7. Loosen the 10 mm nut on end of the plastic rail that holds the wiring harness for the blocks so that the round plastic washer on the bottom of the block will not break when you pull off the block

8. Carefully pull the plastic block out of the engine. There is a 4 inch tube attached to the block that extends into the engine to the spark plug. It will take some twisting and pulling but you must be careful not to catch the back part of the round plastic washer that you cannot see, on the bottom of the plastic wiring harness.

9. The spark plug is at the bottom of the 4 inch hole.

10. Blow compressed air down the hole to remove debris

11. Use a 5/8 sparkplug socket with a rubber collar on the 3/8" extention to remove the spark plug. The rubber collar will hold onto the spark plug as it is removed.

12. The NGK website recommends making sure the spark plugs have the correct gap .044 but the spark plug box says not to adust the gap because you might damage the needle point iridium tip. The new spark plug has a protective cardboard tube that is removed.

13. Spark plugs can stick inside aluminum heads and break off when you try remove them, leaving only the threads of the plug inside the engine which will necessitate removing the head to remove broken spark plug. Putting neverseez on the threads of the new spark plug will prevent that in future spark plug changes

14. Now comes an interesting choice. You can use the rubber tube over the neck of the spark plug to slowly drop it down the hole and hand tighten it or you can use the spark plug socket with the rubber collar. If you use the spark plug socket, the rubber collar will stick to the plug and you will pull off the extention, leaving the socket in the hole. A pair of long needlenose pliers will reach into the hole and remove the socket, but the rubber collar may remain on the plug and you will have to bend a piece of coathanger with a short 90 degree tip to reach into the hole and pull out the rubber collar. The rubber collar is there to prevent you from cocking a regular 5/8" deep socket at an angle which will break off the neck of the sparkplug, necessitating another 10 dollars and another trip to the auto parts store.

15. After the spark plug is hand tight, give it 1/2 turn more.

16. Replace the square block, being sure that the black silicone gasket on the bottom of the round plastic washer does not get bound up on the engine post where the 10 mm bolt goes. Tighten the bolt

17. replace the electrical clip.

18. Go to the next spark plug and repeat the procedure.

19. After the last spark plug is done, be sure to retighten the 10 mm nut on the wiring harness rail

20. Replace the plastic cover over the engine and you are done

1.6 liter holds three quarts with a filter change.

If you have a bad rotor, when you turn a corner sharply it will make a humming noise kind of a wah wah wah (if you will). If you have it apart, the bearing would probably look visibly worn, rusty, dry, ground down etc. Hope this helped.

This is for a 1997+ model Chevrolet Prizm. First, disconnect your battery and remove it (negative lead first, positive second). This will come in handy later. Jack your vehicle up and mount it on jack stands. Now remove the two splash shields on the underside. Your starter will be mounted on the forward section of the engine, roughly centered. From the underside you should be able to remove the bottom mounting bolt and disconnect the two electrical connections (One is mounted on a threaded terminal post, the other is a molex-style connector). The top mounting bolt is a little tricker, but made markedly easier having earlier removed your battery. It is on the reverse side from the other mounting bolt and has quite a bit of clutter around it. A short, slim profile ratchet will come in very handy here (something I wish I'd had). After you have disconnected the leads and removed the two mounting bolts, you should be able to wiggle the starter out from the underside. Installation of the starter is the exact reverse of this procedure. Good luck! ---- A minor note in addition. It took my a couple hours to figure this out, but the top bolt on the starter is opposite the bottom bolt. Because of the exhaust system is directly on top of the starter, there is no possible way you can get at the top bolt IF it were going the same direction as the bottom bolt. This means the top bolt is inserted toward the passenger side of car, and the bottom bolt is inserted toward the driver side. The bottom bolt is about an inch shorter than the top bolt, do not mix them up after removal. I was easily able to remove the top bolt with a 1/2 socket and drive with about 12" of socket extensions, I also had greater torque using the larger wrench. The bottom bolt should be easily removed if you follow the first set of instructions. When installing the starter, I put the bottom bolt in first, leaving an eighth of an inch loose, I then wiggled the starter while inserting the top bolt with my 12" of drive extensions until it caught the threads. * ** *** **** ***** hand tighten bolts with hand or with socket extension until you are forced to use a wrench to tighten the rest of the way!!!************ I hope this clarifies it for all you do-it-yourselfers. mounting bolts are a metric14mm

it is in the trunk you just turn and pull the light out of the socket and the light bulb is a 194 i do believe

If the hood cable is broken on a Geo Prizm, the only option is to open the hood from underneath the vehicle. It is best to put the car up on a hoist and use a pole to trip the hood latch.

Instrument Panel Lamp Procedure per Prizm Shop Manual This procedure only applies to cars with tilt steering wheels. Prizms without tilt wheels are infinitely more difficult because you have to disable the airbag system and remove the trim covers from the steering wheel. Important: The ignition switch must be in the OFF position when removing the instrument cluster assembly. 1. Tilt the steering column down in order to gain the necessary clearance to remove the instrument panel cluster trim plate. 2. Remove the two screws that secure the instrument panel cluster trim plate. 3. Disengage the two lower clips (hidden) 4. Gently remove the instrument panel cluster trim plate from the instrument panel assembly. 5. Remove the three screws which secure the instrument panel assembly, pull out the assembly carefully. 6. Mark the the 4 electrical connectors where they connect to the cluster assembly so that you remember which connector went to which socket 7. Disconnect the 4 electrical connectors from the cluster assembly 8. Remove the instrument cluster assembly 9. Remove the instrument cluster retainer with the instrument cluster lens attached from the instrument cluster case by releasing the 8 locking tabs. 10. Remove the cluster bulb socket from the instrument cluster case by turning in a counterclockwise direction. Remove the old bulb from the socket and replace the bulb. 11. Reverse the procedure to reassemble NOTE: This is such a convoluted procedure you should replace all bulbs while you are this deep into it. Trust me, the other bulbs will soon go bad. Incredibly, the shop manual does not list the part number of the bulb. Note 2: It is easier, and you are less likely to break the trim plate, if this is done while the dash is warm and therfore more flexible. Like parked in the sun for a while before starting. Also, the bulb is a #194, and you will want to get green colored "instrument bulb boots".

Need to know where you are to correctly answer this.

There is one on Bloomington, IL Craigslist right now.

screwdriver?

This could be one of several problems, my friend has the same year and his did the same thing. His problem was the alignment needed attention. as for what else it may be before asking a mechanic to look at that, possibly for a fee; would be to have the tires checked ( discount tire does it for free). Check them for uneven wear, correct tire pressure for all 4 tires, and have them checked for being "out of round" (tire may appear circular, but unless its machine checked it very well could be the problem). next would be to check the suspension, could have bad shock absorbers or even weak coil springs, or both. To check, go to either side (left or right front), then apply your hands on the fender above the wheel. Give it a good push and remove your hands. The car should come back up and stop with Very little wobble (hopefully no wobble), if it does bounce a few times or wobble for a second or 2, you may want to get the shocks replaced. A wise idea here is to go to the opposite side and repeat. If replacing (doing it yourself) do both at the same time, and very important here, check the top mounting holes for bolt size (my buddy had to have me drill him a new size for one side). last thing I could think of would then be the alignment, since the equipment is very expensive, take it to a repair shop like meinekke, or any place that you trust if you have a mechanic. cost for an alignment is typically $100.00 Hope this helps

GEO

It has a bad "Blower Motor Resistor" The fan switch itself is fine.

I'm not sure about the 1993 model but in the 2001 they don't have "Freon" (meaning R12) any more. The refrigerant is stored in that silver canister on the front left side of the engine-bay. R12 is expensive to replace. AC service providers are EPA licenced to service R12 & R134 systems, but they won't sell you the "stuff". So, you have to go to a service provider. I hope this helped. == 1993 Prizms still used Refrigerant-12, commonly known as "Freon". Later models use R-134. Refrigerant is distributed throughout the system. The excess refrigerant and oil is held in the drier/receiver. If you have a tight system and can afford it, stick with the R12. You will not regret it. Retrofit to R134 can be very problematic and expensive.

Change your oil/filter every 5,000 miles if you use conventional oil and every 8,000 miles if you use synthetic and you drive under normal conditions. If your vehicle is equipped with an oil life monitor system then change it when the system tells you too and reset the oil life monitor. If it does not come on for one year change the oil anyway and reset the system even though the light is not on.

Apparently, turning on the air conditioning is triggering the computer to send a DTC (diagnostic trouble code) to the check engine light. It would be in your best interest to have the OBDII connector scanned and retrieve the trouble code(s) to find what is causing the check engine light to come on.

The 200 X was made in 1983, '84, '85, and '86. In 1983 and '84 the seat was black, in 1985 the seat was blue, in 1986 they changed the plastics color from red to white. This was the last year the 200 X was sold in United States. It was still sold in other countries including Canada for another two years.

It's on top of the valce train cover. You'll have to take off the black plastic shroud that covers the top of the engine. Its on the transmission side of the engine (driver's side of car) towards the firewall. It's just a little rubber hose that goes from the valve train cover to the intake almost directly below it.

Is it manual or automatic ???? Dextron III Mercon = automatic Dextron III Mercon = Manual