Chevy Prizm

Savage Model 170. was made fro,m 1970 to 1981

check the alternator for most cars the alternator is wat powers the car the battery is for accesories... a quick check for alternator wit out having to disemble it

tunr on ur car disconnect the postitive cable on the battery if car stays on then the alternator is good and the actual battery itself might be bad

In the Haynes Repair Manual for Corolla and Prizm it states that the '98 Prizm has an inline 4 cylinder engine. As you look at the cylinders (spark plugs) from the front of the engine, the cylinders are numbered from left to right 1-2-3-4. The firing order is 1-3-4-2. The coil terminal is on the right and is perpendicular to the cylinders and the terminals are labeled from closest to farthest from you 1-4-3-2. +---+ | 2 | +---------+ 3 | | 1 2 3 4 | 4 | +---------+ 1 | +---+ |(Front of Vehicle)| V V

with just this info it's possible your a/c clutch bearings are going bad with just this info it's possible your a/c clutch bearings are going bad

The bulb and harness twist off the back of the lens. The lens is a separate unit.

The fuels tanks for 2001 Chevrolet Prims and 2001 Toyota Corollas can be interchangeable with a little fabrication.

The pump is attached to the side of the reservoir. ( about $14. 00 at Autozone Part # 22138719 )

Note: there is also a relay that may be bad.

Chevrolet does not use inertia/reset switches.

call a locksmith

low gas, flat tire, broken gas

Belt

After every 3000 miles

There are two black covers one facing up (not the one you want) and one that faces the manifold (much harder to get to, go figure) This is the one that you want. The connectors will only fit one one way, so you can't go wrong.

It is located on the passenger side of the car. If you look right behind the passenger head light you will see two pumps. Make sure you don't switch them because one controls the front windshield and the other controls the back. It was easy to do. I took the air filter cover off to give myself more room to get my hands in there.

its under the car next to the gas tank, on the left side, if your are standing in front of the car. you'll have to remove your muffler to get at it .

Remove the small compartment to the left of the steering column, below the left air conditioning vent labeled "STORAGE ONLY". Look inside, viola!

under the glove box/dash (passanger side of car). It is right next to the blower motor and has a wire harness plugged in to it. It is held in place by 2 screws

abacus was used in 300 B.C by the Babylonians.

(The oldest) always the oldest from long time ago.

first you need to check if your battery is running low and if it is test it to make sure if its not working that means the battery's dead so get a new one. then if its still not working then your product is old so its broken then theres only one thing to do get a new one unless theres some one who can repare it.

with out load testing both starter and battery, its and educated guess for one without experience.

load testing will test the amperage load being used by the starter.

load testing the battery will test the battery amperage output, amperage is what does the work.

a high load test by the starter indicates the starter is working hard to turn the motor over. avg is 225amps. over 300amps and higher, starter is binding.

batteries are rated by cca (cold cranking amps) the higher the # the better rated battery. when cca go down, less amperage is available to turn the starter. amperage is what does the work.

Reach under the bumper cover , and you should feel the wires feel around once you have located the end of the socket twist it and the socket will fall down, then pull the bulb straight out, repeat with the other side

Instrument Panel Lamp Procedure per Prizm Shop Manual This procedure only applies to cars with tilt steering wheels. "Prizms without tilt wheels are infinitely more difficult because you have to disable the airbag system and remove the trim covers from the steering wheel. " not too sure about that...Important: The ignition switch must be in the OFF position when removing the instrument cluster assembly. 1. Tilt the steering column down in order to gain the necessary clearance to remove the instrument panel cluster trim plate. 2. Remove the two screws that secure the instrument panel cluster trim plate. 3. Disengage the two lower clips (hidden) 4. Gently remove the instrument panel cluster trim plate from the instrument panel assembly. and move it into the larger open portion of the steering wheel. Turn sterring wheel to the left and drop it out the bottom. 5. Remove the three screws which secure the instrument panel assembly, pull out the assembly carefully. 6. Mark the the 4 electrical connectors where they connect to the cluster assembly so that you remember which connector went to which socket. Unnecessary7. Disconnect the 4 electrical connectors from the cluster assembly Unnecessary 8. Remove the instrument cluster assembly Unnecessary, shift it out to one side 9. Remove the instrument cluster retainer with the instrument cluster lens attached from the instrument cluster case by releasing the 8 locking tabs. Unnecessary 10. Remove the cluster bulb socket from the instrument cluster case by turning in a counterclockwise direction. Remove the old bulb from the socket. Remove the green rubber boot from the old bulb place on new bulb, insert in socket and replace the bulb. 11. Reverse the procedure to reassemble NOTE: This is such a convoluted procedure you should replace all bulbs while you are this deep into it. Trust me, the other bulbs will soon go bad. Incredibly, the shop manual does not list the part number of the bulb. Note 2: It is easier, and you are less likely to break the trim plate, if this is done while the dash is warm and therfore more flexible. Like parked in the sun for a while before starting. Also, the bulb is a #194, and you will want to get green colored "instrument bulb boots".

How to change spark plugs on a 2001-2002 Prizm:

The manufacturer recommended iridium plugs cost about $10.00 apiece and last about 150,000 miles. The platinum plugs cost about $2.00 apiece and last about 50,000 miles. For the hassle involved in repacing the plugs, Iridium plugs are better

Tools you will need before you start

1. 1/4" ratchet

2. 1/4" extention

3. 10 mm socket, 1/4" drive

4. small flat bladed screwdriver

5. 3/8" ratchet

6. 3/8" long extention

7. 5/8" spark plug socket, 3/8 " drive

8. air compressor with blow gun or can of compressed air

9. long needle nose pliers

10. 1/4" internal diameter rubber hose 8 inches long

11. wire coat hanger

12. neverseez lubricant

Procedure

1. Remove the two 10 mm cap nuts on the top plastic housing over the engine

2. Remove the two fasteners on the back of the housing and remove the plastic cover

3. You will see four plastic blocks with four wire clips on each block.

4. Use compressed air to blow out debris around the blocks

5. Use the small flat bladed screwdriver to carefully lift up on the tab that holds the electrical connector onto the block and slide the wire clip off the block.

6. Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the plastic block onto the engine. Use the needle pliers (I found that a pair with a 5-7 mm tip are best) to firmly grasp the plastic screw and pull straight up to remove it

7. Loosen the 10 mm nut on end of the plastic rail that holds the wiring harness for the blocks so that the round plastic washer on the bottom of the block will not break when you pull off the block

8. Carefully pull the plastic block out of the engine. There is a 4 inch tube attached to the block that extends into the engine to the spark plug. It will take some twisting and pulling but you must be careful not to catch the back part of the round plastic washer that you cannot see, on the bottom of the plastic wiring harness.

9. The spark plug is at the bottom of the 4 inch hole.

10. Blow compressed air down the hole to remove debris

11. Use a 5/8 sparkplug socket with a rubber collar on the 3/8" extention to remove the spark plug. The rubber collar will hold onto the spark plug as it is removed.

12. The NGK website recommends making sure the spark plugs have the correct gap .044 but the spark plug box says not to adust the gap because you might damage the needle point iridium tip. The new spark plug has a protective cardboard tube that is removed.

13. Spark plugs can stick inside aluminum heads and break off when you try remove them, leaving only the threads of the plug inside the engine which will necessitate removing the head to remove broken spark plug. Putting neverseez on the threads of the new spark plug will prevent that in future spark plug changes

14. Now comes an interesting choice. You can use the rubber tube over the neck of the spark plug to slowly drop it down the hole and hand tighten it or you can use the spark plug socket with the rubber collar. If you use the spark plug socket, the rubber collar will stick to the plug and you will pull off the extention, leaving the socket in the hole. A pair of long needlenose pliers will reach into the hole and remove the socket, but the rubber collar may remain on the plug and you will have to bend a piece of coathanger with a short 90 degree tip to reach into the hole and pull out the rubber collar. The rubber collar is there to prevent you from cocking a regular 5/8" deep socket at an angle which will break off the neck of the sparkplug, necessitating another 10 dollars and another trip to the auto parts store.

15. After the spark plug is hand tight, give it 1/2 turn more.

16. Replace the square block, being sure that the black silicone gasket on the bottom of the round plastic washer does not get bound up on the engine post where the 10 mm bolt goes. Tighten the bolt

17. replace the electrical clip.

18. Go to the next spark plug and repeat the procedure.

19. After the last spark plug is done, be sure to retighten the 10 mm nut on the wiring harness rail

20. Replace the plastic cover over the engine and you are done

1.6 liter holds three quarts with a filter change.

If you have a bad rotor, when you turn a corner sharply it will make a humming noise kind of a wah wah wah (if you will). If you have it apart, the bearing would probably look visibly worn, rusty, dry, ground down etc. Hope this helped.