Chevy Tracker

u can only turn the lights off by applying the parking brakethen turn the key

I just did this yesterday

first you will probably need an impact wrench because the bolts you will be reaching are hard to loosen or tighten and are in an awkward position. Take your wheel off. (It will take an 18mm socket if you don't have the tire iron.) Then you will need to open the bleed valve on the back of the caliper. (The bleed valve will usually have a small black cap on it, the bleed valve looks like a nipple on top of a nut with a distinct whole in the center.) Open the bleed valve with a 12mm open ended wrench when you see brake fluid come out use the round end of the open ended wrench to pry between the two brake pads till there is enough space that they are not touching the rotor. With pressure still on the brake pads, close the bleed valve. There are two bolts on the back of the caliper, 18mm, take out the bottom one, then the top one and the caliper will come off. take off the brake pad sensor, it pulls strait back off the caliper take off the spring from the back of the caliper (the spring has two little hooks and arms that level the caliper out) take out the old brake pads put in the new brake pads then go in reverse order of directions to put back on.

IF YOU NEED TO CHANGE THE ROTOR before changing rotor I recommend buying a screw extractor, not very expensive and will save you a huge headache!!! WHILE THE CALIPER IS OFF take a 6mm Allen wrench and unscrew the rotor bolt. (It will be the only bolt on the rotor) tap the old rotor with a hammer or rubber mallet, because it may be frozen on. Put the new rotor on put your lug nuts in and tighten down hand snug to align your rotor. Put your rotor bolt back in and tighten down TIGHT (If you did not buy a BMW rotor you may not have a rotor bolt to put back in) put caliper back on, take lug nuts out, and put wheel back on

and now you have new brakes

PS don't forget to add more DOT 4 brake fluid.

Sounds like clogged fuel injectors

standing facing the Tracker, in front, there is a big black hose looking thing connected to a black box. This box has 4 latches. And when you take it off...there is your air filter.

Yes

Just fixed this problem yesterday (thanks to some other person's forum posting, plus my own diags using info from alldatadiy.com)... If NOTHING (left button, right button, remote keypad) unlocks the door, then the problem is certainly not in any of those mechanisms, its at a point that is common to all of them. Your problem is likely to be the same as mine, and quite easy to fix... In the wiring splices under the carpet on the front passenger side of the van floor. Turns out that there's an AC drain tube that leaks under the carpet and apparently causes corrosion to any splices in the area... So, open the passenger door, remove the plastic sill plate (just pull up on it), and lift up the carpet. You'll probably find that the underside of the carpet is wet. There's a load of wires wrapped up under the carpet there. Remove the tape and search for the 'white' wire. Or, you can just look for two splices (one is for lock (blue), one is for unlock (white)). I almost guarantee you that you'll find this splice to be loose or broken. Just re-do that splice and your lock will probably work. It fixed mine!! Good luck

My 2003 Chevy Tracker would not restart when it was hot and finally would stall & not restart until it sat and cooled off for 10 minutes. It would crank but not start. We replaced the camshaft it solved the problem. It was located at the back of the engine, at the top and is held by just one screw.

Not knowing the vehicle make or model will only get you a generic answer. Often vehicles are fitted with a switch that measures engine load and switches off accessories such as A/C when considerable engine load is detected at idle speed. For example when parking a vehicle with the A/C on and the steering turned hard near its lock the demand of the A/C compressor and the power steering pump could be so great it would cause the engine to stall (if the switch is defective). An engine that is sick could also fall vitim to increased load as well. Have a technician test the engine for proper operation. Low engine vacuum, low curb idle speed, defective power steering pump, box, hose, or rack and pinion could all present themselves with this symptom. It should not be a hard fix for a good auto tech but several tests must be performed to properly diagnose the problem.

Before you try to make adjustments, check the hinge pins and bushings. When they wear out the door drops. Depending on the vehicle, your local auto parts store should have pin and bushing kits available. Replacng the worn pins and bushings will restore the door alignment back to normal.

There is one illumination bulb to light up the gear shift indicator. Remove the center rear console, then the console around the shift lever, and you will see the wires on the left side that go to the bulb. Twist the small socket and it will come out, then just put in a new bulb.

Because 96 and older cars have [OBD 1 , ON Board Diagnostic] computers which only output faults with no real time data like newer OBD 2 ecu computers.

no, it will not. A Samurai and a Tracker are different body styles. The Suzuki Sidekick is the same body style as the Geo Tracker and those hard tops are interchangeable.

Unless things are VERY strange, it should be the same essentially as was on Suzuki Samurais...yes, it has a belt that goes around the crankcase pulley (front of engine near the bottom), the fan (front of engine near the top), and the alternator. The alternator is set off to the passenger side of the engine bay, and the way the belt is tensioned is by loosening a bolt on the top bracket of the alternator and swinging the alternator toward the engine to loosen the belt and toward the battery & air cleaner to tighten it. Note you may have to also loosen the bolts on the bottom of the alternator so it will 'swing' back and forth. That's the way it was on Samurai's, and I know that Geo Tracker engines were a common swap into a samurai, so I'm pretty sure it would be the same. Hope that helps.

I had this problem with my 2001 Tracker, 2.0 L DOHC engine. The problem was caused by the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor. It wasn't sending the right signal when it got hot.

Info on the web said a guy doused it with water after it got hot enough to affect the engine and it started right up. Replacement was about $180 for the part. Easy install.

Problem solved.

the black thing what has P R D 2 1 onit it pulls off

never heard of a ac amplifier

99 and newer tracker have a small oval cover on the left side of the shifter cover near where your right leg would be while driving. Remove the cover and stick in a thin screwdriver to press the small button while shifting out of park.

Yes, by the dim switch there is a little button just push it two or three times in a row and your lights will turn off and you will have to use the actual headlight switch until the vehicle is turned off and then back on.

are they the factory locks?? if so it could bea vaccum line it operates on vaccum lines. or it could be the ground.

I just had mine done today at 117 000 km, along with the pads. I had the pads done at 45 000 km before that. City Driving up to 75 000 km, Highway Driving to 117 000 km.

The fuse box of a 2002 Chevy Tracker is located under the dash, near the hood release. It contains many important fuses which protect the vehicle's electrical systems.

Put the transfer case in neutral, the transmission in park, the frt. hubs in free wheeling, and turn the key on the first notch to unlock the steering. I think this is correct but check to make sure. I will not be responsible for any information given on this site, Right or wrong. If you don't have locking hubs and you have automatic hubs you may damage the trans if the frt. hubs lock. If the vehicle moves back any it will lock the auto. hubs. You NEED unlocking (free wheeling hubs) This is for a 4 wheel drive with automatic transmission.

It was offered by Chevrolet from 1989 through 2004.