Chrysler

5w30

Check for a loose inner or outer tie rod.

The only fuse box is under the hood, next to the battery.

If it works occasionally then you probably have a loose connection at the bulb.

How can you identify a mopar 727 big block transmission? I dealt with this with my 1965 Chrysler w/ 383 V-8. At least for my car, the big block version is stamped "727 BB" and the case is longer. I recall 35"L from front of case to end of the aluminum (not rubber driveshaft seal). Everything looked good on the rebuilt transmission, but when I unwrapped it to install I found the speedometer hole was too big and it didn't have the cable shift input. Under the gun with a moving truck coming, I had mine rebuilt locally, which didn't fix the "morning sickness" problem (fluid draining back from torque converter?). I since found that 1965 was the year Mopars converted from pushbutton to column shift but retained the cable shift of the pushbutton (1965 only). If I ever have to replace my case, I am guessing an earlier big-block transmission would work if I can't find a 1965.

The airbag light stays on when the computer detects a malfunction and sets a code.

you have to unscrew 2 screws on top of the radiatior, then remove the 2 wires (1 plug) and pull it to the top, calculate 2-5 mins

No. The oil pressure sensor is not required for the engine to run.

You need to replace the blower motor resistor. It is a circuit that uses different resistors for different speeds. They routinely burn out....

They are the same, as far as I know. Plymouth was a marque of the Chrysler Corporation that they discontinued around the turn of the century. The Plymouth Voyager was the equivalent of the Dodge Caravan, a minivan on a smaller chassis than the similar Dodge Grand Caravan and Chrysler Town and Country; prior to the end of Plymouth, Chrysler did not have an equivalent, so they moved the Voyager over from the Plymouth model line to Chrysler's.

This is the story I got from a Chrysler salesman back in 2001, when I noticed the same thing.

Chrysler also uses the name "Voyager" for the minivans that they sell in Europe; (rather than "Town & Country" as in the U.S.)

Obviously there is an electrical problem..

In my '93 LeBaron, my son borrowed the car and left the emergency brake on, after starting the car. There was a short as a result, and my headlights needed jury-rigged to work...My dash lights do not come on, but the warning lights work.

Was there an electrical short, at some time in the past?

3,800.

maybe my radiator is defective

Remove all the bolts in the housing. Two are a little difficult, one is under the distributor and needs removed with a pivot extension or similar flex wrench. The other is under the heater supply pipe to remove this one you first must remove the bolt holding the heater supply line. The bolt holding the heater supply line is attached to the block behind the distributor (not the same bolt as under the distributor). Once the bolt holding the supply line to the block is removed the supply line can be wiggled out (just a o ring holds it now). Once the line is removed the last bolt is accessible for removal. Also the 2 electrical connections must be disconnected along with removing the thermostat inlet cover. Once all this is done the unit can be wiggled off the inlet pipe which is in back of the housing ( all that is holding it now is the o ring in back). Once free from that water pipe (which goes to the water pump and passes under the intake manifold) there is one more line that goes to the heater core that needs wiggled free. This line is also held by a o ring and will separate with a little wiggling of the housing. The housing is now free and can be slipped out from behind the hoses and wires. A leak can develop from the o ring in back this will leak down from on top of the transmission and is probably why you want to remove the housing) . If replacing this o ring make sure you sand the seat clean and use a good RTV sealant on and around the o ring.

Yes, it was.

It is located inside the driver side wheel well, you must remove the plastic to see the unit.

Remove Wheels re-install two lug nuts to hold rotor in place Loosen both Caliper hold down bolts Totally remove one bolt only swing caliper using remaing bolt as a pivot point support flexible brake line slide outer brake pad out use "C" clamp or other like tool to retract piston using inner brake pad for leverage remove inner brake pad

Install both brake pads\ pivot caliper back down and secure remove lugs nuts install wheel

REMEBER TO PUMP BRAKES TO RESET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING CAR.

Of course their is just go watch any old movie about cars and stuff ex dukes of hazards and joe dirt

7200 pounds. With the tow/haul button on!

340 HP @ 5000 RPM Torque 390 lb/ft @ 4000 RPM

Trouble code P0004 means: Fuel volume regulator control circuit high

The 2012 Chrysler 300 has 37.9 in. of rear head room.

There are many approaches that can be used on a rounded nut or bolt. Many of them depend on the access you have to the nut. If you have easy access you can try using Vice grips, a pipe wrench, or a hammer and chisel/screwdriver. You may also consider applying heat to the nut or welding another nut to the existing nut if you have the proper equipment.

You should put some penetrating oil on the nut, penetrating oils such as liquid wrench help you break the nut loose.

Other tools designed specifically for removing rounded nuts include a nut splitter and bolt/nut extractors

(See the website at the related link for a discussion on removing a rounded nut with a hammer and screwdriver, cutting tool, penetrating oils and nut extractors.)

No, what would support the Windows if the top is down.

2820lbs curb weight