Dodge Ram

Your question is not specific enough to answer.

What do you need to do? Replace the pump? I just basically rebuilt my entire fuel delivery system so I can help if you can be a bit more specific.

It is on the side of the throttle plate right across from the accelerator cable.

Most vehicle manufacturers now put the regulator inside the alternator.

The SLT Plus is a trim package upgrade. Some think the SLT Plus option was the 3rd row seat - but that is not the case - that is also available on the SLT. Couple easy ways to veryify: SLT Plus had woodgrain trim on dash and door panels along with overhead console.

It's not a signal flasher.. It's Lighting Control Module. Located to the RIGHT of the steering column by the temp/ashtray assembly.. Under, what I assume would be the kick panel.. (mine's been taken off due to retired squad)

Usually 1" or 1 1/16". A deep well thin wall socket will work on most vehicles. Lisle Tool # 13250 or KD Tool # 3458 will get it done on GM Vehicles

there not

my 2005 f-150 ford will not go from 4wd back to 2wd

The Speed Sensor Is Located on the transmission. On The Top Towards the Back

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to a parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

The drivetrain warranty of the 2014 RAM 3500 is 5 yr./ 100000 mi..

The pressure line is the one closer to the front.

The pressure line is the one closer to the front.

It only has the "pick up plate" inside the distributor.

It only has the "pick up plate" inside the distributor.

Call your local public library and ask if they Mitchellondemand online! You have to log into this online automotive repair manual at the library. If they don't have a subscribtion, keep requesting it be subscribed t, because more people are trying to repair there older vehicles in the "questionable" economy.

You have to remove the entire headlight assembly to change the bulbs. Be careful not to touch the glass on the bulb, as the oil from you skin will shorten the life or break the bulb when it heats up. According to the manual and from what I've seen, there is two bolts on the inner side of the headlight assembly that need to be remove, then there is what looks like a cover with a plastic philip's screw that needs to be removed. Then towards the outer side and underneath of the headlights, between the front bumper there is another bolt that you will have to remove. This is about how far I got on the driver's side headlight, I wasn't able to remove it, because it looks like it's caught on something. From what I could tell, behind the headlight, on the outer side, it looks like there is a small box, maybe 1"x.5"x.5" and it has a clip on the top and bottom. I can't tell for sure if you need to push this through but it looks like it's part of the headlight. It should then just pull forward. I used a 10mm socket on the bolts and that seemed to work. I'm sure there is a standard socket that works better instead of metric, but I didn't have standard on me. The bolts shouldn't be extremely tight, so you shouldn't strip them.

One. Located near the back of the engine on the drivers side.

The 2006 cummins is the most powerful of the 5.9's at 325 hp and 610 torque

NO THAT COULD SERIOUSLY INJURE YOU OR DAMAGE YOUR VEHICLE. google "16.5 inch rim" and you'll get plenty of info

Vibration when applying brakes is most likely warped rotors. Another cause could be loose caliper bolts.

buy the haynes manual

there are bolts located on top of the fenders under the hood one on the very bottom located by the door one behind the black wheel well liner towars the door also and also there are three or four bolts by the hood hinges. After removing all the bols and the electrical stuff off the fenders they should come out. Good luck

This is another type of car, but the picture is very close to the Rx-8. Remove the plastic cover from the engine; look on the back of the air intake housing for a GREEN canon plug. {There is also a "dummy" connection point above and to the right side of the IAT sensor. I wonder wht its' for?} http://www.rightautos.com/imagelookup?html=http%3A%2F%2Fboomer.cz28.com%2Fiat.html&thumb=http%3A%2F%2Fre3.mm%2Da2.yimg.com%2Fimage%2F2205409946&file=resistor_in.jpg&thumbheight=108&width=640&height=480&size=58.1

If it is a automatic gearbox check that out. low oil pressure or dirty filter can sometimes cause this problem == Answer== Extra details from original poster of question: HISTORY 1) I have given this car a complete tune-up about 3000 miles ago with new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, & injector cleaning. 2) The car was running "fine" for 2500 miles after tune up. 3) This problem appeared pretty quickly (good to bad within 50 miles), but I'm not sure whether to look for bad sensor, or think bad gas. 4) To combat bad gas, I have given this car injector cleaner to clear dirt, sea foam for general fuel system conditioner, and "heet" additive to make sure there was no moisture in the fuel system. ( but no improvement ) 5) This car is a 1993 Camry with 6cyl engine, and 180+ miles. it has had Decent maint over the last three years I've owned it, inc. timing belt. PROBLEM BEHAVIOR For last 500 miles, car bucks/lurches/surges when taking off from a stop. It DOES start reliably, and idle is OK, it will rev OK when in neutral, but... when you step on the gas, from a stop light/sign, it wants to surge/lurch and will NOT smoothly accellerate until it gets to about 15 miles per hour. It doesn't seem to matter whether I step on the gas *hard* or soft; you get the same problem. (of course more pronounced when trying to push harder) The ODD thing is, it does NOT happen in reverse ! You can go from 0 to 20 MPH in reverse, just FINE, with no stalling/surging but as soon as you put it in any forward gear, it wants to surge/lurch. Sometimes (10%) you can even notice this (lightly) while STOPPED, even with your foot OFF the gas. The fact that this does not happen in reverse, makes me think that perhaps this is a sensor issue. The engine's computer may disregard some of the sensors in reverse, that are active going forward. Note: I do NOT think that the tranny slips at all, in either FWD or Reverse. After you get to 18 or 20 Mph, things move along fine, and it drives OK, with decent power, no noises, no miss or cut-out, even the fuel milage seems fine. This feels like a fuel or sensor problem, I don't notice any spark miss. The check engine light does not come on. This car is pre-1996, so it doesn't have the OBD-II standardized connector, and I have not gotten any codes. Please Help me diagnose this problem, so I have a reliable car to drive, and don't get hit in traffic because I can't accelerate from low speeds.

remove the upper half of the fan shroud and buy a fan clutch remover tool Unscrew the fan clutch then remove the serp belt and open the radiator cap only when the engine is cool Drain the coolant and remove the lower hose from the pump Unbolt the pump, its held on by four bolts scrape off any remaining gasket and use silicone glue on the bolts that go into the water jacket when reinstalling

Just go here for all the info you need! I'd make it a Favorite too! http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/19/f6/75/0900823d8019f675.jsp