Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer

try 265/35/22.

You need wheels with a 5 on 5 lug pattern (5 inches accross with 5 lugs).

As for the wheel size... Id go with a 15x 8 just cause alot of tires are available at decent prices for that size wheel and it is a good size...

I wouldn't recommend running any tire bigger than a 32x11.50.

I believe that is a version of the C6 - 3 speed automatic transmission

Cheap brake pads will squeel. If you bought cheap brake pads, that's probably it. Also, make sure you apply brake grease to the back of your pads (do NOT apply the grease to the side of the pad coming into contact with the rotor, apply it to the other side coming into contact with the caliper). If you don't apply break grease, this will also cause squeeling.

I have a 96 and I get 16-20 mpg

On the 91 5.8L, and Im sure the 93 is the same. Its located at the rear of the engine, on the passenger side. its a short small hose attached to the top of it and about a 3/8" hose on the bottom. This hose goes into the intake, behind the air intake housing, its kind of hard to get it back in, but you can do it

in the v6 it's in the wiring harness above the right valve cover. In the others its in the wire at the starter battery connection and there is one other model that has it at the battery end of the wire that goes to the starter.

Located on drivers side firewall under hood. It helps to pull inner fender so you don't have to fight with it so much trying to get it out.

First, remove the door panel. You have to unplug the switches and the door handle. Once the door panel is removed, plug the switch for the window and roll it back up. If you look at the part of the door that faces the rear, you'll see what looks like a rivet close to the bottom. It's about the size of a dime and has what looks like a hole in the center. I had to center punch mine first to remove the center if the peice left over once installed. After it's removed, if it's there, drill the rivet. That's what holds the door lock solenoid. Once it's loose, unplug it and take it out. Be careful, some of the window track parts and door itself have some sharp edges. I didn't replace mine because I didn't want electric lock on my door. I guess it's one of those things that I fear if I decide to go into the deep pond. :-) Hope this helps!!

First you have to drop the tank, so that your hand will fit. Then use the "special tool" (it's plastic). You can find these at most auto parts stores.

look in the trunk above one of the wheel wells

if the rotor turns counter clockwise when you crank the motor then the firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. if its clock wise then it's 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

Drain all coolant from your system, disconnect heater core hoses from heater core in engine compartment. Remove the glove box, open plastic housing, and theres your heater core. No need to remove dash if only replacing the core.

you have to remove the hubs pull the rotors transfer the bearing races and reassemble Make it easy on yourself, buy rotors with races already installed. Most will have them. You'll need an inch pound wrench (or do it be feel)for reuse of old bearings, and a foot pound for new bearings. You'll also need the spindle nut spanner socket, snap ring pliers, a pick, hammer, and punch. The punch will have to be slightly smaller that the diamter of your lug nut studs. If you're lucky, your spindle nut will be the newer ratcheting version which I believe does not need to be torqued. The older setup had two nuts, one with a pin, and a washer between them that required alignment with both the pin and inner groves of the hub. Your's should have the new nut. First remove the lockout assembly. This will expose a snap ring on the axle shaft and an inner snap ring inside the end portion of the inner hub. Remove them both. Next use the spanner to remove the spindle nut(s). Pull the hub and rotor assembly off of the spindle. Be careful not to allow the outer wheel bearing to fall out and onto the ground. It may become damaged. The seal will keep the inner bearing from falling. After you get the bearings and seal out of the rotor you'll have to separate them. This is done by using the punch and hammer. Just set the punch on the end of the studs and pound away until they're out. Be mindful of the threads, or just replace the studs with new ones and you won't need the punch. The studs are cheap enough. Next, remove the seal and inner bearing. After that, put the hub on the new rotor and install the studs. Just set the hub end on a piece of wood to prevent damage and pound the studs in from behind. You'll seat them later when you put the wheel on. Again, use a foot pound wrench. After you have the hub and rotor together, pack your wheel bearings with high temp wheel bearing grease. This is difficult to explain, but there is a simple technique. Put a blob of grease in your palm and scoop in with the wider edge of the bearing. If you're doing it correctly, the grease will be forced through the bearing you'll see it come out of the smaller end. Rotate the bearing and repeat. After you have the bearings packed, install the inner (Larger) bearing and then a new seal. Lightly coat the spindle with grease. Put the rotor assembly on the spindle and install the outer bearing as squarely as possible. Install spindle nut and replace the lockout assemble. Put on the wheel and seat the studs. Keep everything clean, take your time, and use good parts. If you have the two nut spindle setup, put the nut with the pin on first with the pin facing out, install the washer. You may have to tighten or loosen the inner nut to line up the pin. After that, install the outer nut.

A mastic regulator is a pressure controlling device that smooths out the flow of high viscosity fluids in a pressurized system. Generally used in the industrial application of sealants and other caulking.

how do u change the rear brake on tx3 1989 how do u push the pin back to put new pads. This is advised that you do not replace the brakes in any car wthout the right knowledge of what to do.

The worst part about replace a freeze plug on ANY engine is getting to it. You need to remove whatever structures are blocking the freeze plug, whether it's the starter, manifold or who knows what. At that point, just remove the old freeze plug, using whatever means you feel is necessary, then clean the hole and press in a new one. It's actually quite simple. If you have specific questions, you can purchase a book from your auto parts retailer. Also, sometimes the sales people at auto parts retailers are good sources of specific information. Also, you can often purchase good, self-sealing "Universal" type freeze plugs that install a little easier and seal a little better. Good luck.

The fusible links are all on the large terminal on the starter - The one the battery cable hooks to.

Yes you do have to remove the bars or at least the torsion bar cross member and to do that you either need the otc tool or use a two jaw puller make sure to measure the bolt height before you start and set it the same they control your ride height

Remove headlight switch knob. Remove trim at the bottom of upper portion of dash to reveal TORX screws holding dash trim panel on. (this is tricky, you will need to bend something, maybe a paper clip or the like, to fit behind those trim pieces and pull straight out - it will fight you) Remove TORX screws, then remove upper dash panel (you may need to disconnect electric 4x4 switch, if equipped), revealing gauge cluster. Remove TORX screws holding guage cluster - not the ones holding the lens. Remove entire gauge cluster and find bulbs on back - 1/4 turn will remove each bulb socket - change as req'd. Reassemble in reverse order.

speed sensors are located on front hubs remove the wheel and you will see what looks like a serated disk the sensors are located adjacent to these

These sensors are for the ABS and do not control the speedometer. The vehicle speed sensor is somewhere on the transmition or transfer case. Exactly where I am also trying to find out.

Similar Problems found on Ford Ranger 1994, other as well (1983 - 1995) against ford on many cars from Oct 13, 2000 because they misled NHTSA and the public by hidding poor design practices in relationtothe ignition modules, some people die because of this. The ignition module is seated on the engine block and it can not take all the heat even if thermal grease is used, eventually it dies, and the cars stall. Talk to your local dealer maybe they can give you at least a discount on fixing the problem since it has been a while since the seatlement......

to start off you have to pull the tranny then the fly wheel and if its a one piece your good to go but if its a 2 piece you have to drop the oil pan.

I currently have 235 75 R15 on mine. They are better with pot holes than the factory installed 205 75 R15.

what you can do is remove the back panel on the tail gate, that will give you access to the internals. now find the wiring going to the window motor, unplug them and hook up a 12 volt source directly to the wires and t will go up or down. when you hook it up and the window goes down reverse the wire and it will go up.

Good luck not allot of room in there, prepare to scrape your knuckles

I would first make sure the tailgate is correctly latched. There is a safety switch built into the driver side latch. This keeps the window from activating (up or down) if the gate isn't fully closed. Bypassing the switch (described above) and rolling up the window may lead to a broken window and possible personal injury. If the safety switch located on the drivers side latch (on the tailgate itself) isn't functioning - it may be the problem.

Testing it is simple: With the tailgate slightly open, find the latch mechanism in the jamb. Simulate a closed tailgate by rotating the two half moon shaped pieces toward each other to make a closed circle. (just as the striker does as the gate closes.) These must be rotated and closed simultaneously. With the gate ajar, use the tailgate key switch to try to activate the motor. If that doesnt work, have a helper use the switch on the dash to activate (ignition must be "on"). Listen for motor noises. If it goes up, that indicates the tailgate is out of adjustment. The tailgate sheetmetal (skin) surface must lineup with the corner of the rear quarter panel.

Dont forget to open the latch dogs by lifting the inside tailgate handle before trying to close!!

If the motor did not activate after the test above, it has other issues; key switch bad, safety switch bad, disconnected or broken wires, bad motor etc.

OMG that is all great info.... also know that the key switch will not work sometimes if the switch on the dash is defective... most people go to the wrong switch 1st.