Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer

The lights may not work because the wires for the lights is not pluged in or you blew a fuse.

did you check out the fuse plugs, sometimes theres also a fuse box under your hood that has a fuse that's hooked up to the radio

According to the About . com website :

On a 1993 Jeep Cherokee , inline 4.0 six cylinder engine :

The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE ( looking from the top )

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Also :

The firing order is ( 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4 )

The # 1 position on the distributor cap faces AWAY from the engine

The engine cylinders are numbered 1 to 6 , from front to rear

This is a really tough problem. The tie rod end is a ball and socket arrangement with a tapered stud. The tapered stud usually is a force fit into the steering knuckle. What you've done is loosen that force fit and now the whole stud is turning.

First, I have to ask if you removed the cotter key from the castle nut before you tried removing it? If not, then that's why the stud is turning. If the cotter key is out, then try using a C clamp to squeeze the stud back into the steering knuckle so you can get some resistance.

Also, you can try using a die to rethread the rusted threads on the stud.

If all else fails, you'll have to get a nut cracker and split the castle nut. Then you'll have to buy a new nut.

Rick

The shop you took it to may not have balanced them properly. Also could be the wheels are not torqued correctly. Be sure to watch next time.

Get a manual if you need pictures and it will tell you how also.

check out this link

http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl962.htm

the easiest way to test your idea is to get two pieces of wire and put a fuse between them so that the fuse will take the load if there is a problem ,then check the link you suspect to be faulty first put one end of the made up wire where the link gets its power then put the other end of the madeup wire to where ever the power should be going by doing this you will bypass the fusable link as for now it will be supplied power from the new made up wire if the item works its the link if it makes no difference this is not the problem area good luck

Usualy a fuseable link that is fried will feel hard and not flexable. A continuty tester is the best way of testing it. Get a dvm volt meter.

Measure it with a meter. It is the only way to tell for sure.

good now for a quick check ...pull some in the fuseable link with your two fingers....if it streches it's shot...if it breacks looose it was making a bad connection and is bad any way....this is as quick of a test when you have just your brains to figure how to check circuits and parts. note. now what do you use to replace a fuseable link when you don't have one availaible? i know lets see if anyone else knows......

this is a tough one and doesnt have a definite answer. my first answer would have been spark, but if you've replaced most of the ignition, that shouldn't be a problem. it may still be the plugs or the wires, which you didn't specify replacing. i would first test spark on all 4 cylinders with a spark tester. you can get them from most auto parts stores and they can tell you how to use them, or you can see my other answer to someone's question about replacing plugs & wires to fix ignition problems. my second answer would be compression. try testing your compression on all 4 cylinders. you can usually rent or do loan-a-tool thru autozone or advance/schucks/kragen auto parts to get off cheaply on doing this. you may find that 2 or more don't have adequate compression for proper firing. third would be fuel. if your smell a strong fuel odor, it may be that your injectors are cracked or not properly sealed, or the wires or connectors are bad and the injectors aren't functioning at all( = no fuel). another possibility (and a relatively remote one) is that your catalytic converter has melted or broken components inside and is restricting exhaust flow, causing a backflow or incomplete exhaustion of the cylinders, resulting in a misfire (another symptom of this may be that the misfiring cylinders are not always the same ones). try hitting your catalytic converter gently with a fist. if you hear a rattling inside the cat., i would take it to an exhaust shop and have it looked at or replaced. hope it helps!

Newer answer:

So you know for a fact that your starter is bad and needs to be replaced? I have worked on Mercedes Benz for 5 years and have never replaced a starter! These thing are totally bullet proof! But if it is the starter the below should let you know how to replace it.

I don't have a Mercedes, and have never even seen the engine you are dealing with, but every starter I've ever seen is bolted on the lower half of the engine block right near the fly wheel. It could be bolted to something else, but it has to be right by the flywheel, because that's how it starts the engine. Start by looking around the bellhousing (where the engine bolts to the transmission), it will probably be on the bottom. As for replacement instructions, it varies by car, so I can't help you, but I hope this at least gives you a starting point.

Voltage Regulator? In the alternator voltage limiter? voltage regulator...a little square box usually located on the driver side wheel well.

first remove tire. remove pad holder and secure with hanger to keep pressure off brake fluid line. Remove small amout of brake fluid from reservoir and leave cap off. Remove old pads. Use a C Clamp to force pad holder open for insertion of new pads. If you don't remove fluid,This action will force fluid out of reservoir. insert new pads (they are labeled) and re install pad holder. Repeat other wheel. Fill reservoir to line and cap. If done correctly you should not have to "bleed" the brakes. Just be sure to pump pedal to refill fluid to line before driving.

Something loose? Exhaust pipe rattling/hitting on something? You'll have search it out.

i have the same vehicle. iam in the process of restoring and not 30 minutes ago i asked myself the same question, the front 2 speakers on driver and passenger side doors are 5x5 and the rear is 5x8

1-4-2-5-3-6 distributor rotation: clockwise"

* "I replaced the fuel pump in my 93 dodge dynasty. we couldn't get the fuel filler tube out, so we could only drop the tank so far. Luckily, we were able to drop it just enough so that if we pried on the tank we could replace the fuel pump." * "Just keep pulling. The rubber piece is removeable. If you damage it you should be able to order another one." --MM

Did you try putting gear shift in "neutral" when shifting into 4 WD Low?

Generally vacuum lines are sold in bulk hose at any auto parts store. IF there are special ends, the parts store (assuming the countermaan is on the ball), should help you to make some. Auto parts store. napa, Autozone, etc...

timing cover, it bolts to the block and covers the timing chain and gears, then the water pump bolts to it.

On a 1996 Ford Bronco :

The ELECTRIC fuel pump is INSIDE the fuel tank

* it is installed through an access hole in the top of the tank

its on the left side of the brake and gas peddling and/or clutch.you may need to remove a piece of the doors lineing panel to acces it.to remove it you must loosen the bolt in the electrical plug which should use a 10mm socket and the bracket which uses (in some cases)an 11/32 socket. after this the ECU shoulbe free to remove

Your transfer case is supposed to be filled with dexron III mercon for that year. The older transfer cases used gl-4 or gl-5 gear lube or 30 weight motor oil but the new process(yours) uses tranny fluid.

i would recomend picking up a Haynes or Chiltons repair manual Haynes is designed for people with little to know experience and chiltons is closer to a dealer ship shop manual

Buy an aftermarket of OEM Ford manual.