Ford Escape XLT

Not sure, I have been trying to find a tool for 2 days now. My 10mm was too small and ny 12 mm was too big - can't find an 11 mm. i was told to try a 7/16 hex and will drive 30 miles tonight to get one at Sears. Wish me luck

The same way as a rear wheel drive.

The height of the 2008 Ford Escape is 5 ft. 8 in. (68 in.).

The 2006 Ford Escape's turning circle is 35.4 ft..

4 runner means four wheel drive.

If the 4runner is only two wheel drive or the 4 wheel drive is not engaged, the rear wheels power the vehicle.

not sure about on a 93. But mine 94 2.o has it on the left (driver side) wheel panel inside the hood. it is screwed into the side panel right before the battery.

headlight bulb?..........push big tab on the black bulb cover and take it off........you see wires and connector....... wiggle and pull connector (not the wires) off the bulb terminals...... a metal wire retainer keeps the bulb in place......to release the retainer push inward and left.....remove spent

bulb....new bulb (do not touch glass) fits one way only...........replace retainer........replace cover entire episode takes about 5 minutes OK!

The 2006 Ford Escape has all wheel drive.

Under the dash up above the emergency brake pedal.

in the centre console underneath the stereo

Push the button below them.

The 2005 Volvo XC90 has front wheel drive.

The 2008 Ford Escape is 14 ft. 6.7 in. (174.7 in.) long.

first of all you must pull the axle nut. you will need a 32mm or 34mm socket, depending on the axle,a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a four foot piece of pipe. have an assistant hold the break while you turn the nut to the left.after you break th nut loose you may commence with taking the brake caliper and the caliper bracket off. next you will ned to take out the steering knuckle, however it is easier to just pull the tie rod, and both of the lower control arms, and then of course the upper control arm (1), because you cannot really get to the knuckle bolts that hold the end of the axle off until you can get it off and take a chisle and hammer to turn the nuts off DO NOT TAKE THE SHOCK BRACKET LOOSE!!. you DO NOT NEED A BALLJOINT, OR TIE ROD SEPARATOR!!! simply take a long handled screw driver or pry bar and push up or down, which ever you are trying to pull off, and any forged hammer and give the side of the joint a good smack while prying down or up on the joint. you may need to do this several times. and with factory hardware you need NOT worry about breaking the joints. after that the you must take the inner cv joint boot loose, this can be accomplished by using a screw driver and taking the end clip tabs and prying them up. the boot moves much similar to a pipe clamp on ventilation duct work. next pull out the inner cv joint end. you should not meet any resistance, however if you do, take a rubber mallet and tap the axle while pulling it away from the tranny. gently pull the axle through the shock/strut bracket and you magically have your cv axle. if you heard cracking in you axle you probably nee to replace the "tripod" on the inside, the axle is probably not messes up, but cracked boots allow sand, rocks, salt, etc. to get into the cv joint and you hear that great crackling sound when you turn, or go down the highway. if you are insistant on replacing the axle though, you can go to your nearest autoparts dealer and get yourself another set. before installing the new ones use a good degreaser and clean the inside of the inner (constant velocity) c.v. joints. use a good grease, i recommend Lubriplate grease and slop a good CLEAN handfull into the joit. if you don't already have the boot on the end of the shaft put it on now. then take your new shaft and tripod and coat the tripod and it's end liberally with grease before placeing it into the inner cv joint housing, reclamp, and reassemble the steering components in the reverse order you took them off. hope this long SOB helps out. PS: the outer CV joint can be replaced, but for the time and cost, you would be better off replacing it.

usually this information is on a sticker, under the hood, right beside the hood latch.

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if there is no drain plug on radiator, just disconnect bottom rdiator hose at radiator

Release the tensioner, and it will loosen the belt. Refer to the illstration under the hood of your car to put the new one on. If it does not have a picture, you must remember this, as it is not fun trying to figure it out on your own.

I need to know more, what model, what engine? It could be a belt, could be a pulley, could be a cam synchronizer.

Is it really getting hot, or is the gauge reading a little high? Did you replace the thermostat with the same temp rating? Thermostats of the same rating can vary by 5%. Also, if you had an overheat, it could have fried the temp sensor (sending unit), which could cause the gauge to be way off. The important thing is if the thermostat is opening and closing to regulate the coolant temp. Hope this helps. --Also have your radiator checked for proper air/water flow. This is often last checked or even overlooked. If the car is running cooler on the freeway with AC off but is running hotter in city driving, it's more than likely your radiator has issues. Also, if you require a new radiator, be sure to have the system completely drained/flushed, and refilled with Prestone (or any) GREEN antifreeze, NOT Dex-Cool.

First off, you need to know if you are just going to change the spark plugs or do a complete tune up, which is what I would recommend. For a good tune up I would recommend changing the distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires, and spark plugs. Also if you want to changing your air filter, engine coolant, oil, oil filter, etc. As far as changing the spark plugs, make sure you use only the spark plugs OEM for your car, dont buy any autozone stuff.

To change your spark plugs you will most likely need a 5/8 inch socket for the spark plugs, and a 3/8 dial torque wrench if its your first time.

1. Remove one spark plug at a time so you will not lose track of where each one goes

-make sure that when you remove the spark plug wire by the boot, not by the the wire

2. Check for any dirt or oil in the hole. Clean it if necessary with a towel that will not leave any lint or residue.

2. Place in the new spark plug. MAKE SURE YOU FIRST TURN IT BY HAND using the extension and spark plug socket. Using a wrench initially may strip the thread on your engine, which will cost you hundreds to fix.

3. Once the spark plug will not turn any more, use your torque wrench to tighten it to your owners manual's specs. For my Sol B16 it is 18 Nm (13 lb). This corresponds to about 2/3 of a turn after it is tightened initially by hand. I would recommend getting yourself a torque wrench to do the job right.

4. Continue and do the rest of the spark plugs one at a time, so there is no chance of installing the spark plugs to the wrong wire.

IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO TORQUE TO SPECS since if it is too lose the spark plug may overhead and cause engine damage, if it is too tight you may cause damage to the threads in the cylinder heads, which will cost a LOT to repair.

The 2005 Ford Expedition has rear wheel drive.

Since the tank was full, I don't think you'll have any trouble. Worst case senario, it might plug up your fuel filter. Doubt it though.

How to remove alternator on 2001 ford escape 4 cylinder

have you checked your brake fluid??