Ford Excursion XLT

under the motor

Should be in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

On a 2004 Ford Excursion :

( 166.6 liters / 44.0 U.S. gallons )

TRY IN BACK WHER THE TRUNK OPENS UNDER THE CARPET TRY IN BACK WHER THE TRUNK OPENS UNDER THE CARPET TRY IN BACK WHER THE TRUNK OPENS UNDER THE CARPET TRY IN BACK WHER THE TRUNK OPENS UNDER THE CARPET

It all depends on how you take care of your vehicle.The engines will last you over 300,000 if not more as long as you do proper maintenance.I have a 2000 Ford Expedition with the 5.4 Triton and my truck has 230,000 plus miles without no problems misses or anything.Proper maintenance and be careful on changing plugs in these vehicles because they did not put enough threads in the head so it is easy to strip them and really cost you.

Current door lock code is stored in the computer. Dealer can read it / they charge about 1/2 hr ($40.00 )

1150 watt, 10A

Try under the hood in the center of the firewall.

44 U.S. gallons

BCI group size 56 ( 500 to 550 cold cranking amps )

4 " x 6" speaker

It's got spring loaded clips. Press to either side and down to remove the bulb.

You have to program the ignition with the computer the pass lock system is lock in you may be lucky by putting the ignition on for 10 min x3 put it on for 10 turn it off for a fiew sec do this 3 times

Ok, you didnt specify which engine, but it really doesnt matter which engine or even which type of vehicle (to a point anyway). But generally this is a real simple job..ten minutes tops. 1. Locate the belt routing diagram under the hood in the engine compartment, if its not there, draw your own based on how your old belt routes. 2. Locate the belt tensioner pulley...on mine it has a 15mm bolt on it (damn metrics!). 3. Put the 15mm (or whatever size your bolt is) socket onto a breaker bar or a long ratchet , then put it onto the belt tensioner pulley bolt. 4.Push the pulley (in the direction as though you were trying to tighten the bolt)..this will move the whole spring loaded tensioner pulley assembly, so that belt gets very very loose). 5. HOLD the tensioner pulley in that position as you REMOVE the old belt (the longer the ratchet the easier this is as it gives you leverage, requiring less physical strength to hold the tensioner pulley in position) 6. Slip the new serpentine over all the pulleys saving the last pulley to be any smooth bore, non-ridged pulley (like the water pump pulley)...this will make the job...oh so easy... you will call your 10 year old daughter/sister out to do it for you next time! 7. take the pressure off the belt tensioner pulley and the belt should go tight (make sure the pulley is centered on EVERY pulley and follows the proper routing. WAH-LAH your done...Its that simple. I would rather change 10 serpentine belts than wash one cup or fold one shirt...its that easy.

6 quarts with a new filter

water pump will cost about 140 bucks to buy if you are at all mechanical it is an easy do it your self jobremove serpentine belt. remove clutch fan. remove radiator hoses. remove water pump. install new pump. re attach hoses and fam clutch,ansd belt fill with coolant easiest water pump on any vehicle to change

94 to 03

This question gets asked so much for all cars that I would say it is already answered many times - just go back on previous posts and find one of the answers. Why wait for an answer? This model has a spring loaded idler pully called the tensioner. The pully has a slot in it's metal mount to insert a flat bar or pry bar into (or maybe even a tire tool)and force the pulley away from the belt - push towards the back of the engine. (It may have a 1/2 square hole for a socket wrench.) When you force the pulley away from the belt you can take the belt off any other pully on the engine then release the tensioner and take the belt off all the pullies. Sometimes this is not easy depending on how strong you are and you don't want to let the tensioner slip with your fingers under the belt and pully before you get the belt off. Make sure you have a diagram of the belt's route back on before you remove it or you will be back asking for that and have no wheels for a day or two. Route the new belt correctly around all of the pulleys except the last one which you can get to easily. Again push the tensioner out and slip the belt onto that last pulley. Release the tension on the tensioner The tensioner has a 15mm bolt head, use a 1/2" drive 15mm socket and breaker bar. There is also a long bolt and spacer that needs to be removed from front engine mount in order to get belt completely off engine, you will need to support under front of engine before removing this bolt. A floor jack works great. There should be a belt routing diagram sticker on top radiator support.

THIS APPEARS to be generic answer, not specific to the Delta 88... Please expand on how to remove the three-point motor mount, or which points need to be removed to get the belt to thread through the mount.

Answer... Oldsmobile Delta 88 (Delta eighty-eight). 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998 & 1999. The serpentine belt diagram is in the owners manual, end of chapter 6. You will not have to remove the engine mount, just the one bottom leg of the three legged mount which is really just a spacer, nut, & a threaded post. First support the engine at the oil pan. I used a floor jack and a 18 inch 2x4. The nut is accessed from under the mount and you do not have to remove any plastic or rubber pieces. When I removed the nut, the post came with it (I'm not sure if it was seized, had chemical applied, or was welded). If the post needs to be removed separately, there may be a special tool required as the end is star shaped. I'd try a socket, but gently so you do not strip it. You can get an imprint of the end by placing pressure on the end with your finger.

Remove the post. The spacer then can be removed upward. Put the belt on following the above instructions. Move all tools to the side and test. Once satisfied and the engine is cool, replace the mount leg. The spacer is the hard item to replace,,, Insert it from the top horizontally... the tendency is to align the engine side and diagonally lower the spacer to the mount side. That seems not to work... horizontal twisting the spacer as it is lowered. Insert the post and nut. Tighten the post first if removed separately. Of course, remove the floor jack :)

Troy. #

If you are trying to locate the Keyless Entry Module, it is: bolted to the top of the left side rear wheel-well, accessed by removing leftside interior cargo panel. My KEM has ceased to function. Key fob batteries are OK. My only solution, so far, is to buy a used one from a salvage yard.

Most block heaters are located in one of the "freeze plug" holes on the block. Freeze plugs look like 2 inch diameter indentations low in the block. One will have wire harness connected to it. The best way to find is probably to track back the electrical plug-in wire. Depending on how much room you have to work in, this can be a royal pain. You might want to find someone who routinely installs these as aftermarket parts and ask them what they would charge to do it. Or ask the dealer what it would cost. On my 2008 they pull off the whole cab to work on the engine because it is all jammed in. I would not be surprised if they would want $300 or so to change it out.

There is a diagram, either under the hood or on the radiator shroud, that tells you how to "re-string" the belt. For technical data, such as torquing the pulleys, consult a repair manual, which can be gotten from an Auto Zone

It is a Noun and it can be use in the following meanings:

# A usually short journey made for pleasure; an outing. # A round trip on a passenger vehicle at a special low fare. # A group taking a short pleasure trip together. # A diversion or deviation from a main topic; a digression.

The fault is in the switch itself, quite common on this age of car, the dash lights and rear lights are worked off the same contacts on the back of the switch, replacement is the usual answer,

I have a 2002 Excursion; My horn is located under the battery tray on the passenger side. They are between the fender and the inner apron. To get to them you have to remove the bolts in the plastic wheel liner, plus the plastic pushpins. Pulling this back should revel the horns. They are fastened onto the inner apron by one no#8 bolt which is located from the battery side of the apron. They have a clip that works similar to a clothes pin, pinch them togather and pull wires free. Good luck