Ford Probe

yes

There are too many steps to enter it all here. Your best bet would be to get a Haines manual. I used one to do my 95. Make sure you read the steps first before doing the work. Unfortunatly you have to take a lot off to do this.

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A BUCKET OR SOMETHING TO CATCH THE COOLANT!!!! IT WILL SPILL OUT.... AND DO NOT REUSE THE COOLANT, JUST BY SOME NEW COOLANT...

Actually there are not to many steps, what you are going to want to do is remove the drive belt, (there will be 2 the belt on the outermost side is for the power steering, the inside belt is for your alternator and water pump), then remove the inside belt. the water pump is behind the pully just under the power steering pump. you'll want to remove the pully from the water pump as the new one often doesn't come with one, then remove the pump, this should be 3 to 4 bolts around the pump. SAVE THESE BOLTS!!! remove the old pump and make sure to remember what way it set in, put in the new one, PUT THE PULLEY ON AFTER YOU BOLT IN THE NEW PUMP... put the pulley back in place, make sure all bolts are tight but not to tight...put the belts back on and make sure they are properly tightened... add your coolant and start it up... wam bam your all set...GOOD LUCK!!!!

I am working on this right now and when I know for sure I will post another answer, but here is what I do know. It is not a bolt in swap and there is fabrication required, I dont know your definition of little modification, but I dont think it is as much as most people believe, Every thing I found on the net says that it is not easy not cheap, and a waste of time, I plan on proving them wrong. Here is where I am at so far, I am using a 5 speed out of a first gen probe because it is smaller lower geared and has a hydraulic clutch unlike the sho trans with a cable, the flywheels are exactly the same between 3.0 probe and the sho 3.0 a probe 3.0 clutch will work fine and the first and second gen probes are not that much different so the axles will be less of a headache with the probe tranny. I have both the motors out and have meausred the overallwidth of the motor and trans and how much room I have to work with and it is tight but not impossible I may have to do some clearancing on the frame towards the firewall for the accesories. since the sho motor has more power and torque I am fabricating a cradle to hold the motor mounts on the passenger side and reinforcing the core support underneath the radiator. I will be test fitting the combo pretty soon.

The egr valve is located on the back center of the engine. It is right under the intake manifold.

first of all close the sunroof fully, then pull down the trim cover (held on by pop type clips). Then you will see 4 10mm nuts, 1 in each corner. Remove them and then carefully lift up the sunroof to remove.

What can be the problem with the overdrive light flashing on and off?

that depends....is it right after you start it? most cars have a high idle during a cold start, its the computer compensating for a cold engine. if it were to idle at a normal speed right after starting it would run rough and most likey stall out. the idle should drop after about 30sec to a min..longer depending on how cold it is out....

if it does this all the time...theres prolly somthing wrong with the idle control solinoid (its a device usally located near the trottle body that the computer uses to adjust idle speed. it could possibly be stuck due to old age) another possibly is a vacum leak somewhere on the intake. perhaps a hose is cracked or somthing...you will prolly here a hissing sound from the motor if that's the case.

that depends....is it right after you start it? most cars have a high idle during a cold start, its the computer compensating for a cold engine. if it were to idle at a normal speed right after starting it would run rough and most likey stall out. the idle should drop after about 30sec to a min..longer depending on how cold it is out....

if it does this all the time...theres prolly somthing wrong with the idle control solinoid (its a device usally located near the trottle body that the computer uses to adjust idle speed. it could possibly be stuck due to old age) another possibly is a vacum leak somewhere on the intake. perhaps a hose is cracked or somthing...you will prolly here a hissing sound from the motor if that's the case.

buy a manual this is too gentle two guess. a nice trick two throw your way is use light duty spring clamps to hold the belt two the cam sprockets. you will see do not crimp. a small spring clamp will not hurt and will help a great deal. also assemble belt starting from last point of slack. usually the rear cam sprocket keeping pressure and clamping on the way. before setting around crank sprocket back off ONE! tooth. follow through and release tensioner this will make up for the one tooth you cant possibly stretch a two inch plus belt. usually work first time for me. make sure you turn over by hand first and double check all marks. hope this helps.

To begin with, the rear brakes may be out of adjustment. Try backing the vehicle up at a comfortable speed, and then tapping the brakes firmly. Repeat several times, and see if this affects the hand brake operation. If not, the cable between the lever and the brake actuators may need to be tightened. This requires getting under the vehicle and locating the hand brake cable. Somewhere near the rear of the vehicle, there should be an adjustment nut. With the brake lever in the 'off' position, tighten the nut until there is only about 1/2 inch of slack in the cable. Try setting the hand brake and see if it works. If not, take the car to a garage and have the rear brakes inspected.

there's a product you can purchase at most auto parts stores called a split boot. this eliminates the need to remove the cv joint from the vehicle.comes with instructions on how to apply..

The type of induction an engine uses is not directly relevant to its transmission type. In other words the engine can be naturally aspirated, turbo or supercharged and use an automatic, manual, cvt etc.

odds are if you own a 96 anything and it hasn't been done yet the answer is either A.) long overdue, or B.) now :) general rule of thumb for any vehicle is 100k...some manufacturers say 80K but mostly 100....

The Gates book and Ford lists 60,000 miles as the recommend change interval. This is an interference engine so I would change it every 60,000 miles as recommended.

It is located on the air filter box. Has a plug with 3 or so wires in it.

abought 8 hours if everything gose good drive safe

The starter is located on the front, right side of the engine right underneath the air box assembly.

r134a

In my case when the fuel cutoff light came on and the engine died it was the distributor. hope this helps.

-- jamieazure: I just had my 1994 Probe GT fixed after trying to troubleshoot this problem for the last week. It's pretty cold here in MN, so when I started the car up it was perfectly fine. It would run for about 10miles, then the tach would just drop out like the power was cut off to the car. I'd drift to the side of the road, wait about 10min and it would start back up. Turns out my distributor was failing when it got too hot. Replaced it last night with a new (remanufactured) one ($240.00) and it appears to be working great now.

Yes. body parts, interior parts and most motor componets are interchangeable.

However, the 94 Probe is an OBD-I and the 97 Probe is an OBD-II so there are additional sensors on the 97 Probe to consider if swapping motors/wire harnesses, etc.

You have to remove the inside door panel then you can see the holding assembly

Coolant is getting into the combustion chamber. Sounds like a head gasket problem.

where are timing marks on 89 ford probe 4 cylinder I have the bottom not the top

in the center of the dash, just below and behind the stereo

I have a 1994 Probe GT and that has happened to me before. To fix this problem, there is a fuel cutoff switch on the driver's side of the trunk hidden behind the plastic trunk panels. Make sure the red button is clicked down all the way, and you should be good to go. The car will cut off all fuel to the engine if that switch is tripped.

Due to it's an 4 cyl. Mazda 626 2.0 Liters with a low gear change ratio.