Ford Probe

the fuel cut off light comes on when there is a problem with the fuel cutoff switch (whether its bad or tripped) and/or when there is a problem with the charging system. your situation seems to be that the alternator belt is slipping which would cause lights n such to dim and lose power and the fuel cutoff light to come on. inspect the alternator belt, replace if worn or tighten it

Look to spend at least $400, if not more, depending on who you take it to. We had ours done from the manifold back to the tune of $427.00

Most are in the gas tank . You can get access to the tank underneath the back car seat. There are 2 latches that can be released by sliding a screwdriver in the middle of each seat where your legs would hang over. once you pull of the seat, the top of the gas tank is right there with the pump showing. Easiest fuel pump repair ever. Probes rock.

Remove Alternator from car, mark housings before removeing thru bolts, carefully loosen thrubolts (may need to use heat) remove thru bolts. loosen pully nut,back off a few turns (don't remove nut) lightly tap front housing with small ball pein hammer the drive end housing will move foreward on rotor shaft, there will then be a gap between the drive end housing and the stator. use two large slotted screwdrivers on opposite sides of stator (pry between drive end housing and stator DO NOT PUSH SCREWDRIVERS IN THIS WILL DAMAGE STATOR) just go in far enough to get a bite between the two sides. twist the screwdrivers in opposite directions gently but firmly. the alternator will separate. you will hear the brushes pop that is ok. with a solder gun (high temp works best) weller pro 240 works well unsolder the two bridges that connect to rectifier bridge (THIS IS TRICKY) once un-soldered remove screws (note which screw goes whare) voltage regulator & brush holder are one assembly. pull out and reverse to install ( IM830 ) transpo electronics. when installing regulator make sure screw threads are clean or you will have binding that will make you think screws are tight when they wont be. also make sure you pull brush pin before you install alternater. tighten pully nut before assembly,line up marks on housings,line up thru bolts gently tap on rear housing (GENTLY) until housings seat together and tighten in a sequence until tight. DONT get nuts tighten until snug and then 1/2 turn more that's it. don't remove battery cable while engine is running to test. you will damage new voltage regulator. Good luck

No special tools are needed and once you get the dust cover off the drum you will see just how easy it really is. Make sure you pack the new bearings well If you are doing this to replace the brakes it should have over 150000 miles on it. I have never seen them wear out before that. Ray

Thanks Ray. My vehicle has 176,000 miles on it, runs like a top, but has a "mud tire type" growl at speed, so I checked the tires out, rotating them, and still had the same growl. It gets really load when turning left. I appreciate the help!

First thing i would check is to see if the plugs/wiring behind it came loose. If not then the cluster may be faulty and you should be able to find one at a local junk yard.

very simple, I've done it. Goto http://www.angelfire.com/la/dreamer/pobase.HTML that is my right up and info on how to contact me with questions.

Small Block Chevrolet Torque Specifications Main cap bolts (oil on threads).....................................................70 ft.-lbs. first set wrench for 45 ft.-lbs and tighten each bolt, then set wrench for 70 ft.-lbs and torque each bolt again. Rod bolts (oil on threads)............................................................45 ft.-lbs. Oil pump bolt (oil on threads).......................................................55 ft.-lbs. Head bolts (sealer on threads).....................................................65 ft.-lbs. Screw-in rocker arm studs (oil on threads)....................................50 ft.-lbs. Cam sprocket bolts (oil on threads)..............................................20 ft.-lbs. Intake manifold bolts (sealer on threads except four corner bolts)....35 ft.-lbs. Harmonic balancer (oil on threads)................................................65 ft.-lbs. Flywheel/flexplate bolts (oil on threads).........................................65 ft.-lbs. Pressure plate bolts (oil on threads)..............................................35 ft.-lbs. These specs are for stock-type bolts, if you are using aftermarket bolts you should follow their recommended torque specifications.

The flasher unit is located up and behind the fuse box. It is black with a socket that has @ 10 wires into it.

I had a hard time finding this relay also. I went to the Ford Dealer and looked it up in the service manual. The fuel pump relay is the one in fuse box by the battery; the relay is located top right(green nf02) listed on cover as circuit relay.

Bought a used '90 Probe; a dealer repair involved adding transmission oil through the fitting that houses the speedometer cable. On the '90, that was seized; a replacement part was available only from Mazda. (The '90 has a Mazda 5 speed manual transmission.)

Make sure your mass air flow electrical connection is connected tight.

you don't. it's hydraulic and, automatically adjusted hydraulically.

The 1994 Ford Probe has a brake fluid reservoir that should be mounted on the drivers side firewall. Remove the cap on top to add fluid.

Under hood, driver side, side of strut tower, mounted on tower in fuel line

These bolts are very tight. 200 ft lbs and more. The fastest way is with an impact gun, but if you are a DIY'er, the best method is to let the engine do it for you. Put the proper 1/2 in. drive socket on the bolt. Put a breaker bar on the socket and brace the end of it against the sub frame or lower control arm. No more than a half inch away. Rotate the engine if necessary. Turn the ignition key to start for a split second. The engine will rotate while the bolt stays stationary, effectively loosening it.

i found that in mine, it was the egr actuator

try this link it may help keep in mind ford probe's have Mazda engine's

http://www.iequus.com/support/obd2_definitions.php

Park/neutral switch high input circuit high

There is a fuel cut-off switch located in the trunk (hatch) under the mat, usually on the drivers side. If it's tripped, check the fuse as well. -CE

you have a magnetic starter on this vehicle, the starter is no good, you might try to hit it with a hammer to get it to start.

a man shift is a manuel shift button it drops the car down a gear for passing and such

If they have not done so already, they're going to dissolve - It'll slowly gum up your engine. Take it to a mechanic immediately and have the system flushed. Good luck.

might have a leak in the clutch lines somewhere check to see if you have any fluid should be by the master cylinder and look like a clear pill bottle change your slave cylinder..it would cost you about $45..i had the same problem last week..now its running new..my 89' probe..

The DLC (Diagnostic Link Connector) should be located in the engine compartment on top of an inner fender close to a relay/fuse center. It may be snapped into a protective cover.