Ford Windstar GL

It sounds as if there is a problem with the rear electronics module in the Ford Windstar. This controls the front and rear lights and it is located in the back in the cubby with the jack.

Head gasket might be going. check for leaks first& try flushing system.

I would have the brakes checked ASAP. As to the rattle there maybe a nut that came off something and is inside something and the bump makes it move. The two may not be related.

If your 97 is like my 98, then this is the easiest way to get out the old pw motor. You will need a Phillips head screwdriver, drill with about 1/2 inch bit, a pull strap and a ratchet and socket (i think it's a 5/16 inch socket) . Start out by removing 2 screws at bottom of door panel, then pop off black plastic by mirror, then pop off trim around buttons, remove screw by the door handle, lift straight up on door panel to get above door lock knob. After the door panel, plastic, etc... is off , you see the pw motor on the middle of the left side, you will notice the metal clamp with a pull strap around the bottom, (it is pop riveted in, cut the pull strap) you will see 3 small holes on the door (roughly 1/8 inch) drill those out to expose the mounting bolts holding the pw motor in place (hold up the new pw to see and compare bolt holes), now that is about the easiest way I can tell you, hope it works for you. Btw, to get the bolts started back in the new pw motor, you might want to use a piece of tape, or something to hold bolt in socket or you will probably drop them several times due to finger space. You understand when you see it.

justjohn9150@yahoo.com

There is a Technical Service Bulletin out for this issue. The fix is to loosen the trans mount on the driver's side and reposition it.

You can view the owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

A high speed vibration can be the result of a wheel out of balance or a tirerod end getting bad. I would have my frontend check . actionjac

Noises when turning... things to check

* axle - CV joint
* struts - coil spring
* wheel bearings
* front suspension - tie rods, ball joint, control arm & bushing, radius arm bushing


In any case, your vehicle needs to inspected by a professional mechanic / shop.

First: Go to the Crutchfield website and put in your year and make Windstar. The results will show you the various types of speakers used in the front door and mid-panel.

Write down the cat.# of the lower priced sets of 5 1/2" round and 5"x7" oval speakers.

Then check the Wal-Mart near you for those styles. I found a pair of Pioneer 51/2" speakers for $12 less than Crutchfield, including sales tax.

Finally, very carefully follow the answers for removing your door panels.

In football, "GL" typically stands for "goal line." It refers to the line that marks the boundary at each end of the field where goals are scored. When the ball completely crosses the goal line, a goal is awarded, provided that the play is not ruled offside or a foul has occurred. Additionally, "GL" can sometimes be used as an abbreviation for "goalkeeper" in certain contexts.

My 92 Protege didn't have a block heater, I had to get one installed.

First shut all the doors then use your light switch to turn off or on dome lights if that doesn't work it could be a bad door pin switch

Autozone.com has an illustrated repair guide for the 1995-1998 Windstar on-line!

See link below under "Related Links"

This is really easy to do.... much less of a pain than most other Hondas.

The beeper is located on the ceiling between the visors, inside the housing that covers up the screw mounts for the rear view mirror. Simply remove the rear portion of the cover by pushing up and outward, away from the mirror. This will expose the base of the mirror and it's screw mounts. Around the perimiter of the base of the mirror you will see two screws that hold the rest of the plastic cover in place. Remove these screws and the cover should be able to be pulled down, exposing a wire harness and a small plastic connector plug (don't know if they're all the same color, but mine is colored light blue). Disconnect the plug, shove the wires back up inside, replace the cover.

It's done!

I was looking at the ( 1996 ) Ford Windstar Owner Guide and it shows :

In the Power Distribution Box ( which is " live " ) located in the engine

compartment near the battery

( " M " is a 60 amp fuse for the Heated Backlight , that's what Ford calls their rear defrost )

The 1998 AX4S transaxle has a total of five (5) solenoids located in different locations

within the transaxle itself. There are three shift solenoids, 1st , 2nd, 3rd. Also there

is a torque converter clutch (tcc) solenoid and an electronic pressure control (epc) solenoid.

All of these solenoids are output devices, placed in an on-off position by the vehicles powertrain control module (computer) at different times.

The powertrain control module (pcm) also receives input from four (4) sensors, the transmission range (tr) sensor, the turbine shaft speed (tss) sensor, vehicle speed (vss) sensor, and the transmission fluid temprature (tft) sensor.

From the information received from these sensors, (input devices),the computer actually controls every thing the transmission does by the solenoids, (output devices).

As far as the actual placement of the solenoids, I would highly recommend a manual!

On my 96 Windstar I removed the air cleaner and tube to the fuel injectors and the Battery and the case..you can then see the valve cover pan on the end of the Transaxle..this cover has to be removed to access the 'shift' solenoids. there are three. the pan can be removed only after you remove the the bar suporting the back of the transmission and it's rubber mount..this will give you enough room to remove pan-cover over the valve body..the three shift solenoids are stacked in a row, white in color,brown if burnt or bad..disconnect wire to each and twist to the left to remove, best to replace all three..p.s. you will need a jack to support the back of transaxle to remove the rear support.....

The blend door actuator is located behind the glove box, and a sign of failure is an audible "clicking" sound when you adjust your climate controls. The most common issue with heat or A/C in the late model Ford windstar is a broken blend door. A broken blend door actuator is almost as common as a broken blend door itself. Typically, the fix requires disassembling the entire dash and replacing the whole plenum box, which can be a costly repair.This details the best DIY option on how to replace a broken blend door or actuator, accessing the plenum box by removing the glove box rather than the entire dash.

It is in the alternator.

The voltage regulator will be inside the alternator. Replace the alternator, or take it to a place that rebuilds/fixes them.

It requires metric sockets, internal torques sockets, a soldering iron, a small flat screwdriver and some thin wires or drill bits.

There is a plastic cover on the alternator over the connections for the voltage regulator, these need to be taken apart with the soldering iron and flat screwdriver to be able to take the alternator apart. Then remove the housing bolts (pay attention to how the two halves line up with each other) using the internal torques sockets. After separating the two halves of the alternator look at the brushes to see if they are too worn, also check the bushings for play. If the bushings are bad replace the alternator, or have it rebuilt. If the brushes are worn, they can be replaced, but try not to lose the springs. If I remember correctly the voltage regulator is held in with 2 small screws, removed with a metric socket.

Putting it back together, bolt in the new regulator. push brushes into the slots and hold with wire or drill bits. Put two halves together exactly as they were before, re-solder it, remove wires or drill bits and replace the plastic cover.

Also, when you have it apart, is a good time to tighten the hot wire stud if it is loose.

I did this on one of mine and the $5 voltage regulator gave me another year of use out of the alternator before I had to replace it.

a do it your self will cost about $45 to do it right. a garage will charge between $750-$1200

I had the same problem on my 98 Windstar. I found out that the white vacuum line runs up to the rear ac/heat switch in the climate control in the dash. In the "Blue" area, the vacuum is supplied to the damper switch to make the air blow out the side and top vents. It also runs down to the valve under the van that cuts off the coolant runnig to the rear heater core. In the "Red" area the vacuum is cut off from the damper to only blow the air out the bottom vents. It also cuts the vacuum to the coolant cut off switch under the van and coolant flows through the heater core allowing the air to be warm. The switch is a dealer part. The switch has a built in "valve" inside that either opens or closes the vacuum supply to the white line running back to the rear unit. Usually the rubber piece wears out and does not allow any more vacuum at all. It will get soft and permanently plug the incoming vacuum supply line. I actually took out the switch and fabricated my own new rubber piece to make it work rather than pay way too much from the local ford dealer! Be aware, it must be a hard rubber that you use or it will still fail and not supply the vacuum correctly. Good Luck!

it should be behind the front wheel on top it has 2 wires running to it.

Chime

bad wireing or your insterment panel dimmer switch is bad. the switch is a dealer only part so get one from a junk yard or new its up to you