Ford Windstar SEL

We would need more information in order to help you. First, if the Check Engine light is on, that means that your car's onboard engine management computer has detected a problem. This could very well be related to your hard start cold complaint. Stop by any auto parts store that offers a free code retrieval service, find out what the stored fault is, and ask again, please. Be careful, though, and don't rush out and buy the parts they may recommend. A cold engine needs more fuel to start than a warm engine. The Engine Coolant Temperature sensor is the primary reporting sensor to the computer on how cold it is. I would like to know what it's telling the computer to see if it's accurate.

Actually , the engine on a 2001 Ford Windstar is fuel injected so there is no

carburetor

Without knowing more it could be anything. Torque converter clutch could be stuck if it stalls at a stop sign. Carburator if it stalls after it warms up or when you mash the gas pedal. Points if its old enough. Shorted ignition wire ( coil wire or distributor power or ground ) if it happens in a corner or after you hit a big bump. Ignition modual if it does it in damp or hot weather.

It could be a dirty throttle body. With the age of the vehicle & the fact that that PCV valve draws its venting vacuum thru here you may need to pull the air intake hose, remove the snap ring holding in the screen, then CAREFULLY the screen. Go to a good parts store & buy some throttle body cleaner & a plastic toothbrush. Hold the throttle open (ENGINE NOT RUNNING) spray the throttle plate & bore thengently clean with plastic brush until all carbonived oily reside is gone. Next you could have a bad idle air control valve if it dies while at idle speed I'm assuming that you,ve checked for vacuum leaks. If it happens only when warm while driving or sitting still, then takes a few minutes b4 it restarts it could be a bad ignition module. Hope this helps.

You will need to take off the old part and then replace it with the new. You can do this on your own or with the help of a mechanic.

In my experience, any noise coming from the wheel bearings is an indicator of wear - and ultimately a repair job in my future.

See "Related Questions" below for questions/procedures on Windstar front wheel bearing replacement.

Not sure of the actual intent but in the S10 Blazers the power heated mirrors are turned on with the same switch that turns on the rear window defogger

The first off-the-top-of-the-head diagnosis is that your wheel bearings have failed and are crumbling away. or - it could be just small gravel & debris in your hub cap, but since you used the word 'wobble', I would check out the wheel bearing.... SOON. And if it turns out that's it, be sure to check/change the other side (left or right side of car) , too.

Sounds like it could be a bad wheel bearing

It should be in the oil pan.

There is a fault with your Anti lock braking system, if you hit the brakes hard the wheels will skid rather than automatically cut in and out. Its worth getting to the garage ASAP as its a very important crash prevention mechanism.

"crossover tube"... (??)

If this is referring to the coolant bypass hose/tube, we've got you covered with the "Related Question" below.

If not, please elaborate on what/where/symptoms are related...

Possibly here http://www.alldatadiy.com/

I TO HAVE A 96 WINDSTAR THAT HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM WHILE DRIVING ON ROUGH ROADS. WITH THE SLIDING DOOR OPENED I WOULD TRY AND SHAKE IT TO TRY AND MAKE THE SOUND, BUT NO SOUND. WITH SOMEONE DRIVING THE VAN AND DOOR CLOSED TRIED PUSHING ON THE DOOR , THE NOISE WAS STILL THERE . EVENTUALLY TRACED IT TO THE REAR SHOCK ABSORBER RUBBER BUSHING, THE SHOCK WAS VIBRATING AGAINST THE FASTENER THAT SHOULD HAVE HAD A RUBBER BUSHING. AFTER REPLACING THE BUSHING THE NOISE WAS GONE HOPE THIS SOLVES YOUR PROBLEM.

I have 98. I searched for that noise everywhere on my van. I could not get it to stop. When I messed with the side door and the noise continued, I started to think it was the jack moving around, then maybe the lock in the rear door. Going insane I thought. Then while under the van to get a child's ball, I noticed the shocks were so worn, the rubber bushing was gone. I had the absorbers replaced and I can`t even get my 98 to make a noise now even when I push it to the limit over bumps. If the absorbers are in good condition but the bushing is shot-NEW BUSHINGS, but if your absorbers are riding low-NEW SHOCKS.

Hi, I am also searching for such answer. My 97 crv keeps leaking oil from the engine. 2 days ago I have an oil changed in a local mechanic shop. They noticed the problem too and I was quoted $260 for fixing it by changing a new valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket and a drain plug, of course, including labor charge. I didn't expect to pay close to $300 to solve this problem in a regular oil change visit. So I took the checklist they gave me and quoted the price for the parts I need from Autoadvance, end up to be $140 something. With the help of my friend who loves fixing car, hopefully this is all I need to pay to fix the oil leaking.

2) I had my oil pan gasket replaced in Long Beach, CA in December of '06. The oil pan gasket cost $10, if purchased from an after market auto parts store, the repair shop charged $25. It was $100 for the labor and that was after haggling them down to that amount. I too was shocked it was going to be so much to have it replaced.

3) I just spent 5 hours changing out the oil pan gasket on my '84 Landcrusier. I have to say that it was a terrible experience. Pay the $100 dollars! It will be well worth it. I'll give you a run down: 1. Drain the oil (easy) 2. pull the oil pan off (not so easy) 3. Clean the oil pan gasket area from the pan and the engine block (easy but time consuming) 4. Put sealant on the engine block and hold the gasket up to the block until it holds (not so easy) 5. Put sealant on the oil pan and mount (you'll swear alot on this step) 6. Put all the bolts back in and torque to spec (not so easy unless you have an unrestricted path to the bolts) 7. Drink alcohol to unwind.

4)I replaced a valve cover gasket on a 1996 Honda Odyssey which would be the equivalent job as on a 97 CRV. It is about the easiest gasket job you can do for this vehicle. A rubber gasket should not cost more than $25-$35 at a local auto parts store. They are simple to install since you do not use any sealant with this type. You just remove the bolts and gently pry it off. Clean up the mating surfaces really good. Line up the new gasket and valve cover then put the bolts back in and torque them to specs. It's an hour job with clean up for a DIY. I've not done the oil pan gasket but have looked at it under a 1998 CRV. This looks a little bit harder since you have the engine shield to remove and the exhaust pipe runs right over it and very close. I think $100 is reasonable to do the oil pan gasket. If you do it yourself I recommend getting silicon gasket maker. It will make the job much easier. You just put a bead of it on both mating surfaces, let a skin form then mate them. Lightly tighten them down but not all the way. Let set for 12 hours then tighten down the rest of the way.

== == You need a diagnostic download tool that will tell you the actual stored memory codes, which is the first step in fixing the problem. These tools are about $130 USD to buy, or you can go a licensed gagage and have the technician do it, for a price. By having the test done by a tech you will not be guessing as to what the problem is, and throwing money at it trying to get it fixed. Spend the money for the test, and know for sure what is wrong with the car. Then have it fixed and be happy. Many autoparts stores now offer to read those codes for free. Of course they're hoping that you'll buy any needed parts from them. I use Autozone for this virtually every time to find out what the car is complaining about. I agree using Auto zone or Advanced Auto. They read and cleared my code for free. CEL stayed on all the time on my 2001 Windstar. Turned out to be the EGR sensor I replaced.

Bad tire?, try rotating the tires to see if the noise moves.

Since the Windstar has both struts (front) and shocks (rear), both procedures are covered in the 2 "Related Questions" below

This same thought is what caused me to disable the anti-theft system. My car is eight years old and I started thinking all it would take is a dead remote battery to leave me stranded. To disable the anti-theft in my 1997 Sunfire, I plugged the valet switch/button into the slot under the dash. After using my remote to turn it off and start the car, I pushed the button on the valet switch and left it that way. Now it starts without the remote. If anyone wants to steal an eight year-old banged-up Sunfire, it's their loss. Ha ha ha...

The Chevrolet Malibu 2004 manual lists the tank size as 16.1 gallons, or 61.1 liters for both the 2.2 and the 3.5 liter engines.

Honda recommends it -- But I would not have it done for at least double ot even triple the mileage they recommend.

Yes - in fact most vehicles for the last 20 years or so have used some form of fuel injection (as contrasted to a carburetor based system.)

Some early fuel injection was built around an extension of the carburetor idea: a central point of fuel distribution.

Then individual fuel injectors became the norm - which are typically mounted across the top, middle of the engine, or angled downwards into the top of each 'bank', or cylinder head.