Grand Am GT

In a 1987 it's under the steering column, to the left. Hope it's the same for the 1988.

It could be the lifters. Depending on the mileage and care as far as frequent oil changes one o rmor eof your lifters may be making a tickign sound. As the oil pressure builds up..........say after a minute or two does it go away? Try this....just turn the engien on and let it on and see if the ticking goes away when it warms up. If not, then it is probably not the lifters. The lifters are hydraulic and they maintain a certain oil pressure and as they get old they gum up from infrequent oil changes and they lose some of their ability to hold the pressure so they tick.

Some professional drivers are required to check their tire pressure every day. This is a good practice even for a casual driver. It is a good habit to visually check your tires every time you drive by making a quick walk around the vehicle and use a pressure guage if any tire appears to be less inflated than the others, or show any unusual change. Also if you notice your car handles differently, pulling to one side or the other or tending to sway when you change lanes you might have lost pressure on one tire. Every 250 miles or weekly when filling up on gas is also a good practice. Periodic inspection of your tires may spare you the inconvenience of being stranded with a flat tire. It can also provide you with vital information about your steering and suspension so problems can be addressed before major damage occurs.

remove cover around lights with a torques bit then remove the 2 or 4 screws holding in the light disconnect light and repeat in reverse. == == == == == == If 1987 or newer, on passenger side, open hood unplug the headlight bulb turn counter clockwise, install new light, being carefull not to touch the glass part of the bulb. On the driver side, the plug and bulb can be reached if you have small enough hands, if not, then remove the battery first.

check the timing or the distributor or a shaft inside of it. 2) Check the fuel pressure if it is not within the limits it will not start. The 4.3L engine is sensitive to pressure. If it is low even by a few pounds yo umay need to change the fuel pump.

6x9

Fuel pump is located in fuel tank

I assume you have the 3.1 L V-6, or there'd be no problem. The tools you have are part of the serpentine belt kit installation tool you can buy or borrow (deposit required) from Auto Zone or Advance, etc. The hex bolt you refer to is the tensioner mounting bolt, not the adjusting port. What you need to remove the tensioner is the SHORT 13 mm (as I recall) metric socket that comes with the tool kit. It will allow you to slowly unscrew the tensioner mounting bolt. When getting a replacement tensioner, get a good one. It should cost you about 50 bucks for a Dayco. You do NOT need to remove the tensioner to put the existing belt back on the pulleys. Instead, you just have to relieve it. Use the 3/8" square drive on the long tool and put it in the 3/8 square recess, or hole, that is cast into the passenger side of the tensioner. Alternately, you can slip a 19mm open end wrench on to the front-facing rectangular boss on the tensioner. Either way, rotate the tool and tensioner counter clockwise (as viewed from the passenger side) and you will find you will attain enough slack to re-install the belt. Ease off the rotation when the belt is on, and check that the belt is centered all the ribbed pulleys. Now, if the original belt was broken, or you are replacing it, it's a tougher ball game. Search "How to replace the serpenine belt on a 1996 Grand Am 3.1L" for a more detailed explanation of that joyful little task! I hope this has been helpful to you. I'm new to posting here, and this is the question I need answered please: The alternator on my 1996 Grand Am died, so I successfully changed it, but now I can't get the serpentine belt back on. I worked for several hours trying to move the belt tensioner with no luck. It appears to have a 1/2" bolt/nut in the center of the tensioner pulley, but I can't get a good hold on it due to the tight space constraints. How can I rotate the belt tensioner to allow me to put the serpentine belt back on the alternator? I have a special flat tool with a 3/8" square socket drive, and also an attachment with a 1/2" square socket drive, but neither fits into any spot on the belt tensioner that I can see or feel - I looked and tried for hours. Any information, pictures, diagrams, or knowledge would be VERY much appreciated as my Grand Am is dead in the water right now until I can get this belt on. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!

Take of the plastic covering 3 screws on bottom, unscrew titlt wheel lever, turn key to on or start posistion there is a little metal clipon the bottom that you can pull out (not all the way) towards the key then on the back side of the cylinder you will see a lever in side a hole push it in the cylinder should come out

Just below alternator.

You could be pressing the brake pedal too hard. Another reason why it may jerk is because the pull brake is engaged.

You might check your vehicle speed sensor. My 1997 Tracer is acting up along the same lines.

Sure. Can you open the lid? If so, there is only a clip that holds the lock in. Remove the lock, and with a small screwdriver, or pin, work what is left of the shank out of the cylinder of the lock, replace the lock, and you are back in business.

It is actually pretty easy. There are 2 clips that you have to pull up on. One of them is on the right side of the light and the other is on the left. The clips look like small pieces of metal that look like an upside-down \"L\" push then back a little bit while pulling up on the clip and vioal the whole assembly comes out.

Here is a company that offers several self install DRL kits for the do-it-yourselfers of the world: www.daytime-running-lights.com On-line install instructions are posted here: http://www.daytime-running-lights.com/blank?pageid=86&catstart=0&prodstart=0

you need to let the engine warm up so the oil and other lubricants will protect the moving parts of your engine and tranmission ***The 3400 V6 is, and always has been poorly manufactured - The noise you are getting is due to loose/incorrect factory internal engine clearances. There is nothing you can do about this problem besides use a small amount of oil stabilizer, like "Lucas oil additive". There is good news, though - As long as you change your oil regularly, this problem should not get worse, and therefore is more of an annoyance than anything. One thing you should know, if your car uses any coolant at all (if you have to add coolant more than once a year) then you need to have your car inspected for leaks in the intake manifold and head gaskets - These repairs are very common (ALL 3400's will have to have their intake gaskets replaced by ~100,000 miles) and can result in coolant getting in to your oil. Coolant in your oil will do permanent damage to your crankshaft bearings, and can also cause galling of the sidewalls of your pistons. Both of these problems will cause a severe engine knock (like a hammer on the bottom of your engine) and will ultimately result in catastrophic failure.

Very true. My 3.4 turned 100,000 miles and about a month later the head gasket and intake gasket both blew. My car also had this noise, but like mentioned before if you maintain regular oil changes it shouldn't get worse.

well, first throw it away then buy a new one.

There should be 2 screws holding it in from the outside just unscrew them and replace the bulb. If there are no screws most likely the bulb can be accesed from the inside of the trunk lid and easily replaced aswell

front of the motor bottom of the block on my 96

The top speed limit is set in the program running in the ECM (Engine Control Module). Someone once told me for the Grand Am, the limit was set by the speed rating of the OEM tires.

It should be the same as a 1997. I just did one on 9/22/07 I had to undo the upper two engine mounts, passanger side lower mount and driver side. Do not undo the bolts that are under the car undo the once on the top of the mount, you can see them if you remove the inspection covers, then just below were your belt runs you will see two nut, all the mounting nuts are 15 m. Here is the hard part and I mean hard I had to remove 5 bolts that hold the mount to the block and remove the mount, the pan would just not come out by unbolting it from the sub-frame. the 2 front bolt and 2 in the back are not bad but there is one in the back that I could only get 2 fingers up there to get to the 5 bolt. Getting it out not bad getting it back in took me 1 hour. Make SURE YOU REMOVE THE OIL LEVEL SENSOR. If you brake it check with a napa to get a new one they are the cheapest 26 dollars auto zone has to order it and it was 30 some dollars. After you get the oil pan back in and bolted down the rest is not bad, if you can use a chery picker would be best so when you lower the engine back down you can guid it back into the mounts. I was on this job for 8 hours it calls for 3, if you have never unbolted a engine on the newer cars or in you do not have paitents TAKE IT IN it is a lot of work and time. I will never do one again for FREE I did this one and it was a good $300 dollar job. Good luck

on the driver side of the car theres a fuse panel on the side of the dash when you open the door. there should be a reset button inside there. if there is turn the key to the run position push the button toill the oil change light starts flashing. after a few seconds there should be 3-5 beeps and the light should go out. if that buttons not there then turn the key to the run position still and pump the gass to the floor three times. leave the key on till the light flashes and you the beepeing sound and the light should go out. if in doubt check your owners manual aswell it tells you how to reset it there to

Hello!!! ok plese take a seat, ready! ... for a regular vehicle here in Fresno,California the averege price runs about 4 cylinder car $350, 6 cylinder car $650 , REGULAR V8 car $650 to $750 usdlrs., NOW for a V8 32valves twin cam sports car that your fingers can't reach a single nut the price is around $1000 t0 $1200 usdlrs. but you can always get a garage mechanic for around $850usdlrs. so I rather to do itmy self Im not a mechanic but I like to work on my own cars an let me tell you it is a pain in the a%# work on this kind of muscle cars but is worth it. you ending expending around $350 dlrs for head gaskets,engine oil,antyfreeze,new water pump,valve covers gaskets,ohh the most important .....bandaid. Hope it helped. thanks ! From Fresno ,CA. CENTRAL VALLEY

Bad Battery, starter, low gas, fuel pump, engine control computer, sensors, and five hundred other possible problems. Be more specific in what wont work at the time.

I found this page with a decent step-by-step process to help guide me in replacing my LH Front Wheel Bearing Assy on my 99 GrandAM GT. It shows how to replace one on a Grand Prix, but they are extremely similar. http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/GM-Wheel-Bearing-Hub-Assembly-Replacement/index.html