Honda Odyssey

this could be the cause of low brake fluid or that your foot is on the brake and it is indicating that the ABS is working.

Sometimes its best to get a couple prices on Replacing Brake Shoes (rear) and Pads (front). I noticed on New Pads (front) they were NOT a Good fit. The Pads MUST move slightly in their holders.. If They Don't Fir right- The Pads will Get HOT Quickly and may CRACK.. Notice how the old ones slide easily, and the new ones should also. As for ROTORS (Front) If there is too much "rust".. they won't come of without a Puller. If the Vehicle Vibrated when BEAKING,m chances are the Rotors got Warped by Over heating. Even if there are No Grooves from Work Pads, they could be warped, and REPLACED. I would NOT have Rotors Turned down (cut) Because they are not MADE as good as years ago. As for Rear Drums.. They also might be Very Hard to GET OFF, because of RUST on the Outer HUB. Pay the Extra, and get PEACE OF MIND.. But Trust the Person doing the Work, that You can SEE The Parts going on..

I had the same question for my 1999 Odyssey and found a surprising answer on other pages. My symptoms were that the driver side sliding door would not function either by the door handles or by the switch on the dash. The passenger side door worked fine. I had checked all the fuses that were obviously related to the power doors; they were all OK. The solution was to remove fuse #13 from the interior fuse panel on the passenger side. Fuse #13 is a 7.5 amp fuse that is also labeled "clock backup". Apparently this causes the door to reset because as soon as I put the fuse back in, the door was immediately functional. In my case, when I removed the fuse, both power doors were closed and the main door switch on the dash was in the "on" position. When I read about this solution on other pages they indicated that the fuse should remain out for 30 seconds. I did wait 30 seconds before replacing the fuse but I am not sure it made any difference. The only side effect is that the clock has to be reset to the correct time. One other time I had a problem in that the doors would not close completely. At the dealership I learned that by holding the dash swith down in the "close" position it will cause the door to adjust the point at which it considers the door completely closed. Also: I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey and have taken the van to the dealer to get the power door reset.... $50. There is apparently a breaker of some sort (not the electrical fuse) that causes the door to stop functioning if it has a problem opening or something causes it to stick when you try to open it. AVOID THE $50 CHARGE and the wasted time of having this "repaired". To reset, I tried both of these suggestions below at the same time. I found these elsewhere online... not sure which worked, but the door is working again without a trip to the mechanic. Posts elsewhere indicated that this worked on both 2000 and 2001 Honda Odyssey vans.

Suggestion #1

1.) Disable the power door switch on the left dashboard.

2.) Remove the power door fuses located under the front passenger leg area.

3.) Manually open and close both sliding doors.

4.) Restore the power door fuses located under the front passenger leg area.

5.) Enable the power door switch on the left dashboard.

6.) Try opening the sliding doors.

Suggestion #2

Remove fuse #13 (clock) for 30 seconds or more from the passenger side fusebox. This will reset the door and the clock. Not an edit, but a money-saving thanks from a soccer mom who doesn't have the $$ to have the dealership fix my door. This was an easy fix that worked! I gently used pliers to remove fuse #13, counted to 30, replaced and my door worked! Thank you!

The 2003 Honda Odyssey's engine produces 242 ft-lbs. @ 4500 rpm.

The blower motor resistor on a Honda Odyssey is located under the dash of the passenger's side towards the front. The resistor helps to the air conditioner blow cold air.

Under the bottom of theengine. It may be under your skid plate.

I'm assuming you want to remove the handle and the door panel on the inside. The trickiest part of removing the panel and handle is the handle itself. The handle uses a "U" clip to keep it attached - many window handles use this same type of clip. There are tools that can remove it, but the shape and location of the Odyssey's door handle make that difficult. The clip is in the shape of a bent "U" (think of "pinching" the U in the middle). You usually just push down on one of the open ends of the U and it will pop straight down and off. Or, if you have a VERY stiff hook (like a dentist pick shaped like a U) you might be able to hook the bottom part of the "U" and pull it straight down. After the clip comes off, you can just pull the handle off. Then there's a trim screw hidden behind a small cover (pry the cover off). Once that screw is off, the panel will pop off by gently prying all the way around. The best thing to use is either a door trim remover, which has a "U" section cut out so you can surround each trim connector and pry upward. But you can use a 1-inch-wide utility knife or slim screwdriver - just don't pull out too hard. Around the window, there are 2 more pieces. Gently pry them towards the center of the window (not away from the window, but towards the center. They also have trim clips and will pop off. Remove the 2 pieces. You can now lift the entire door panel off.

Look on the battery and see who made it. It really does not matter who produced the battery. You can install any brand battery you want as long as it fits and you get one with the correct CCA rating. If you want an OEM battery then buy one from your Honda dealer.

The recommended spark plug gap for a 2004 Honda Odyssey is .044" Keep in mind, many OE manufacturers (i.e. Denso, NGK) pre-gap their plugs for specific applications. If you happen to buy the iridium or platinum style plugs with the very thin center electrode, they should come pre-gapped. It can't hurt to check the gap before installing the plugs, but if any adjustment is necessary, do so with caution because the ultra-thin electrode may crack if any excessive pressure is placed on it.

you might just want to get a Haynes or Chiltons from your local auto parts store or amazon.com . it's a great investment

To change the cabin filter , bring down the lower glove compartment and right behind it you can't miss it, you will see the filter door.

Gently remove the side cover tab(s) by sticking a flat screwdriver in the slot and prying it. NOTE: the tab is notorious for breaking during this operation and it costs $6 to replace (you have to buy it from a dealer). If it sticks at all, put some WD40 on it and push it back in. Work it back and forth to get the WD40 on the area that is sticking. If you are still having trouble, use something like a dental pick (rigid, very small diameter, with a bend in it) by sticking it into the crack where you can and using it to pull on the tab piece.

Once you have the tab off, remove the Phillips screw. The light lens assembly can now be pulled out (but it will be held to the van by the wires. The bulb mount twist locks into the back of that assembly.

The bulb simply pulls straight out of the mount. Once you replace it, just reverse the process.

Push at radio #1and #6 at same time when turning ignition on and will show code and input code(you may find it in glove box sticker 5 or6 numbersand press those numbers and will unlock radio.

That may not work, so if it does not, go to the Honda Owners Link, sign up, and you can get the code if the radio is an OEM unit. Click the link.

To reprogram you remote download and the instructions here.

http://handa-accessories.com/crv/KEYLESSPROG.pdf

It worked for me and I'm sure it should work for you.

Cheers

you dont have to take out the rear panel....it have two separate window, one in each side, the only thing you needs is a screwdriver to open it... and you will see the lights bulbs cable....just twist and done.....

The maximum cargo capacity of the 2010 Honda Odyssey is 147.4 cu.ft..

It will either be leaking which you can inspect visually (the oil inside the strut gives it the dampening ability. Or the car will tend to bounce a great deal, rather than once or twice whilst the vibration is cushioned. You can also push down on your car to test the struts effectiveness, it should wobble about 1-2 times and then stabilise. hope that helps.

You read the trouble codes on the dsahboard "engine check" light. To get the codes out you connect two black, single wire connectors under the dash near the steering column while the ignition is turned off, then turn the key on and the light should flash a code. More information can be found at... http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ .

how to change front brake pads on a 1994 lexus es300

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To replace the filter follow the procedures outline below:

1. Remove the glove box. This involves the simple procedure of

removing two screws that attach the glove box to the dash frame on the

bottom of the glove box. The screw on the right side of the glove box

is in a crappy location so I had to use an 8mm socket and a pair of

Robogrip pliers in order to remove the hex head screw. A short 90

degree angled Philips screwdriver may also work. Once the two screws

are removed, pull the glove box release button and take it out.

2. Cut the 18 Inch wide plastic brace that was behind the bottom part

of the glove box. YES, cut it. It does send chills down your spine

knowing you have to cut this perfectly good brace but trust me there

is no way around it and it is not structurally needed. There is a

metal brace behind it that actually carries the load. Except for maybe

removing the entire lower dash there is no way of not cutting this

plastic brace and getting to the filter element! If you have your

filter changed at the dealer they are going to do the cutting so don't

worry about it. In order to cut the brace out I used a utility knife

(Stanley knife) following the lines near the ends of the brace. It

looked pretty obvious to me where to cut so you'll most likely see it

too.

2. Remove the metal brace that was behind the plastic brace. With a

Philips screwdriver remove the two screws holding part of the lower

dash to the metal brace. Next, remove the two screws that hold the

brace to the rest of the dash frame. Use an 8mm socket to remove the

hex head screw on the right. The hex head screw on the left is a bit

trickier because it is hidden behind the dash. The head of the screw

faces the back of the vehicle. I used an 8mm closed end box wrench to

remove it. I loosened it with the wrench then took it out the rest of

the way with my hands. I small pair of hands helps!

3. Remove the AC Filter (a.k.a. Dust and Pollen Filter). The filter

element is held is place by a vertical black plastic cover almost dead

center in the middle of the hole left by the removal of the glove box.

It simply locks in place with a clip at the top and bottom of the

filter box. Just use a flat head screwdriver to pop loose the top and

bottom tabs. A vacuum with a small hose will come in handy to sweep

out any extra debris left back in there after the filter is removed.

Again, the filter is mounted in a vertical position with the two

"faces" of the filter facing the left and ride sides of the vehicle.

4. Insert the new filter. Match the "Air Flow" labels on the filter

box and on the filter element itself. The little black tab that is on

the filter element will be towards the front/bottom of the filter

facing the rear of the vehicle. Snap the filter cover back in place

then you are ready to reassemble.

5. Re-install the metal brace (4 screws total). Keep in mind that the

plastic brace is no longer needed and can be thrown out.

6. Re-install the glovebox (2 screws).

Try disconnecting battery for about 10 mins. or have vehicle scanned to determine problem and have codes cleared

open it up if u can and put all pieces in some very warm water maybe with some denatured alcohol - the kind without oil in it.

let it set till all the "stuff" desolves of it then let it dry for a couple of days before putting back together.

5X114.3

The exhaust gas recirculation system (EGR) is an emissions control system that recirculates some of the exhaust gas back into the intake in order to re-burn any excess fuel vapor that leaves the engine. It is basically operated by a valve to control circulation. "Valve lift insufficient" means that the valve is not opening enough to circulate exhaust gas as much as the engines computer deems necessary. The vehicle will not pass an emissions test in this condition.

there is no way of knowing unless you have your vehicle scan for trouble codes.anything we tell you will be nothing more than a guess. You can go to Advance Auto or Auto Zone and they will scan it for free and tell you the code and what the code means.