Kia Sephia

The 2001 Kia signal flasher relay switch can be found beneath the drivers side dashboard. The signal flasher relay switch will be above the brake pedal.

you can only reset it with an OBDII diagnostic code reader.

I recently replaced the battery in my '97 Sephia, and took it in to get inspected. They said that because my battery had been replaced that morning, the computer had reset and I would have to drive it for about 75 miles to reset the codes (if present). So I drove it a while and took it back, and it was ok. I tried that the next time the check engine light came on, and the light went away (for about 75 miles, then the computer reset and it came back on). If you have recently acquired this car, you'll find out that the check engine light and the associated problems are common with '97 Sephia's. Good Luck!

If you reset the code for the check engine light and it comes back on after a while of driving that means that you just reset the code not fixed the problem. You will have to goto someone who has a tech to that they can hook upi to your computer and there will be a code that will come up and the mechanic should be able to tell you what is wrong.

The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSIONS of the vehicle.. Don't let it bother you as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say a small percentage of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have multiple computers aside from the powertain computer) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they are different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests or �monitors� are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. There are many different sources for the light to come on. Anything that caused combustion to fail, commonly called a misfire will set the light. Various sensors such as oxygen sensors that evaluate the exhaust before and after the gases are burned in the converter. Transmission codes may set the check engine light to appear. If the car is running okay, get it fixed in a reasonable amount of time such as within the month. It will probably save you fuel if you do. However if the Check engine light is flashing, you should be driving it as damage is being done to the converter. Some emission components are covered beyond the standard warranty. The converter for example is covered up to 80,000 miles by the manufacturer. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage. To start testing for the check engine light, you�ll need to find the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. There are self-tests for the oxygen sensor circuit, egr system, evaporative system to name a few. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related.

OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that it won�t come back on. But don�t bet on it. Lastly, disconnecting the battery in some cars will clear the memory of the computer and may temporarily turn the light off. Beware that this may also cause other problems such as the car not rembering it�s idle and will have to relearn it, the radio may be rendered inoperative or in the case of the new Toyotas, the air bag can blow.

try 2639

no. 1997 and 1998 are different body styles.

take it off and install a cherry bomb muffler or another hotter sounding one.

Sit in the passenger seat and kick your right foot forward and up under the dash. Your toes are touching it. Its mounted with at least 4 Phillips head screws that are very inconveniently located. My '99 makes a noticeably loud rumble on the 2 highest settings. I tried tightening the screws...no luck. so I placed a wood wedge under it. good luck getting it out.

In the engine compartment there is "L" intake valve. It has a green cap with an "L" printed on it. It is located on the left front side close to the headlight.

An A/C compressor takes about 6 horsepower to turn it and when an engine is idleing, it is producing about 30 hp so when you take away 6 hp from 30, it puts quite a load on it. There is also a device which increases the idle speed when the A/C is switched on. If this is not working or the idle is set too low then rough idle may occur.

i had the same thing happen in my 1999 sephia. the problem was a poorly crimped connector pin in one of the wiring harnesses. I found it because the connector was slightly burned looking and somewhat melted. In my case the connector was buried next to the drivers left leg under the dash. All i did was to use a piece of metal to bend the tab on the connecting pin down some more. No problems since then. Hard to find, but an easy fix

LOOK UNDER FUSE COVER ---EACH FUSE IS NUMBERED AND EXPLAINS WHICH IS WHCIH LOOK FOR TAIL LIGHTS

It is the CV joint within the axle. I would replace it with the entire axle assembly.To save money I would buy a good used axle then bring it to a local garage.

clutch is going, slave cylinder is either shot or full of air

10W-30 weight oil is recommended for your 2000 Kia. If the vehicle is operated in extreme climates you can use a heavier motor oil.

This is an incorrect spelling of the word "sepia" which itself is a darkish-brown color or the tones and shades of brown that give a faded impression of aging.

http://www.kiatechinfo.com/index.asp Register

Then go to "shop"

choose model / year / engine / capacity

click heading on the left

engine electrical system

charging system

alternator

repair procedures

Sephia [FB] > 1996 > Engine > 1.8 DOHC

REMOVAL

1) Reversing the battery connections will the rectifier.

2) The use of high-voltage testers(such as a magger) will damage the rectifier.

3) Remember that battery voltage is always applied to the generator B terminal.

4) Do not ground the L terminal while the engine is runing.

5) Do not start the engine while the connector is disconnected from the L and S terminals.

1. Remove in the order shown in the figure.

2. Inspect all parts and repair or replace as necessary. (Replace generator as one unit; do not disassemble.)

3. Install in the reverse order of removal.

REPLACEMENT

1. Remove the A/C and P/S drive belt, if equipped.

2. Loosen the generator mounting bolt and adjusting bolt.

3. Remove the generator belt.

4. Install the new generator belt and adjust it to specification.

5. Tighten all bolts to the specified torque.

Tightening torque :Mounting bolt : 27-38 ft-lb (35-52 N-m)Adjusting bolt : 14-19 ft-lb (19-25 N-m)

6. Install the A/C and P/S drive belt, if equipped, and adjust to specification.

INSTALLATION

1. Install the generator mounting strap and tighten the bolt to specification.

Tightening Torque : 27-38 ft.lb. (37-52N·m)

2. Install the generator and the generator drive belt.

3. Loosely tighten the generator mounting bolts.

4. Adjust the deflection by tightening the adjusting bolt. then tighten the mounting bolts to specification.

Deflection : (at 22lb.{98N})New : 0.22-0.27in. (5.5-7.0mm)Used : 0.24-0.29 in. (6.0-7.5mm)Tightening torque

:Bolt(A) : 27-38 ft.lb. (37-52N·m)Bolt(B) : 14-19 ft.lb. (19-25N·m)

INSPECTION

1. Check the drive belt and pulley for wear, cracks, and fraying. Replace if necessary.

2. Measure the drive belt tension with a tension gauge.

Tension

Drive Belt New Used

Generator 0.31-0.35 lb (8-9N) 0.35-0.39lb (9-10N)

A/C and P/S 0.31-0.35 lb (8-9N) 0.35-0.39 lb (9-10N)

3. Measure the deflection by applying moderate pressure (22lb, [98N]) midway between the puleys.

Adjust if necessary.

Deflection

Drive Belt New Used

Generator 0.31-0.35 lb (8-9N) 0.35-0.39lb (9-10N)

A/C and P/S 0.31-0.35 lb (8-9N) 0.35-0.39 lb (9-10N)

ADJUSTMENT

1. Loosen the generator mounting bolt and adjusting bolt.

2. Deflect the generator to achieve the specified deflection.

3. Tighten all bolts and recheck the tension.

on top of the transmission

In the kickboard fuse panel, marked as "meter" and it's a 10A fuse.

In order to change the brake pads, the tools needed are a floor jack, jack stand, tire iron, metric wrench set, small wire bristled brush, mechanic's acid brush, large channel locks, screwdriver, torque wrench and metric socket set. You will also need brake lubricant and two bricks.

1. http://kia.com/index.php

2. (lower left side) hover "Kia Owners" >> click "Service Information"

3. Create Login (worth it!!!!!!!)

4. Technical Information

This is a HUGE online repair manual. I was very impressed, overlooking some translation errors.

The Socket Size for a 2001 Sephia Is a 32 mm

Dead Battery

On the back of the transmission, there is a 14mm bolt on the top of the transmission that u must take loose and a bolt on the bottom the the starter that you must take loose, you must get this final bolt from the bottom of the vehicle

answer

Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a hand wrench. Lift the car up on the car lift to gain access to the starter. Put on the safety glasses before going underneath the Spectra.

There is no known way to reset the Kia Sephia immobilizer. It is best to go to a Kia auto dealer or repair shop to see what needs to be done in order to reset the immobilizer.

The inside of the fuse box cover has a small diagram, also the manual has one. As for finding one online, I haven't seen one.