Mazda MX-6

its hell easy mate. all u do is take off the bottle thing that's on top of the cylinder and quickly put ur finger oever the end of the hole so u don't lose all ur brake fluid. then simple unbolt the cylinder. its hell east but a bit fidely. don't bother taking it to a machanic they said to me 50 bucks for a 30min job. once u have replaced the cylinder u will have to bleed the lines. u will need two people to do the its impossible to do it with one person. hope this helps!

just a quick question im trying to find my wastegate but cant can u help me out on where abouts it is thanks! i have a 88 mx6 turbo thanks!

its on the front of the engine, on the drivers side of the head. they usually cost about 200-250 new and would not take a mechanic more then 1 hour to replace. so cost +labor= how much u might expect to b charged

UNDER HOOD, DRIVER SIDE, UPPER ENGINE AREA, ENGINE END OF UPPER RADIATOR HOSE, MOUNTED IN COOLANT OUTLET HOUSING

If your asking this question than you shouldn't be performing this job yourself<

the belt is simple to change you actually have two one is the powersteering belt and the other is ac belt. you need to first lower the top pulley closest to the front of the engine remove the belt of the three pulleys then lower the alternator using the tension screw and remove the pulley to install just follow in reverse

a 14 inch rim should fit on the 1993 Mazda MX-6, but it must be a 5x114.3 bolt pattern. tire size is usually p195/55/r14 or p195/60/r14

you have to turn the piston like a bolt

If you are talking about the IAC idel air control valve,It is as simple as disconnecting the electrical connector from the IAC valve.removing two mounting screws and remove the valve from the throttle body.Installation is reverse.Be sure to install a new O-ring. Good luck!

in the trunk (boot) there is a alarm box in the left fender inside the corner carpet between the water bottle (washer fluid filler ) .just remove the two black female connectors.the box is black with the name samcor on it..By ivan from SA

You can try spraying some carburetor cleaner into the intake by way of a vacuum line or pcv hose Just a little dab will do you. If the engine tries to start it would indicate that you have a fuel problem.

There are 2 adjusting screws new the metal air intake body. The Phillips is mounted by the dual cables for the throttle and and if for adjusting the intrenal butterfly ONLY - DO NOT TURN IT!!

The IDLE speed is adjusted by the slotted screw (uses a straight screw-driver)- NOT Phillips head screw on the air intake housing. This screw in in the metal body of the air intake. I asked a local deal service dept and got great advice: Turn it clock wise until you hear the idle speed slow, check the RPM's.. should be appox 900rpm. Turn the screw 1/4 turn at a time - WAIT 30 secs for the onboard computer to adjust... still too fast? Give it another 1/4 turn until you get the idle rpm to appox 900rpm.

it MAY run a little rough on cold starts after this adjustment: IF So turn it back COUNTER_clock wise and 1/8 of a turn at a time to 'tweak" the cold start. I did it after a few days of trail & error..

good luck!

JD sacto, ca

Take a look at www.mx6.com for most answers to questions regarding these cars

I just changed mine yesterday. Most publications will tell you to remove the driveshaft on the passenger side. If you are like me, and don't think you are up to (or just don't want to )do it that way, this is how I did it: 1. Remove the charcoal cannister. It is the cylinder shaped black object on the left side corner. 2. There are 4 vaccum hoses connecting to the cannister. If the color coding on the hose and/or the cannister is missing, ensure you mark them yourself so you hook them back up in the correct location. 3. Once the hoses for the canister are removed, slide the cansister off of it's bracket. After you slide the canister up and out of the way, remove the two bolts holding the bracket on. 4. To the right of where the canister was, is a cable harness which is clamped to the front. Remove that clamp, and move that harness as much out of the way as possible. 5. Once these are out of the way, you can pull the alternator out. It will appear as if there still isn't enough room, but if you fiddle with it enough, moving it to different angles, it WILL come out. I think that was much easier, than the alternative method of removing the drive shaft on the passenger side!

1. disconnect the battery, 2. loosen the bottom pivot bolt which u will have to feel for because u really cant see it too well. it should be almost directly at the bottom of the alternator, 3. loosen the lock bolt(left side) on the tensioner and then begin to turn the tensioner rod/bolt to the right(gives slack in belt). this should be on the top left side of your alternator. after enough slack u can take off the whole tensioner unit. YOU WILL BE ABLE TO FREELY POSITION THE WHOLE ALTERNATOR ABOUT 50 DEGREES SINCE THE PIVOT BOLT WILL STILL BE INTACT BUT LOOSE ENOUGH. 4. un clip(2 little "push tabs") and un screw the 2 different electrical plugs on the back and under side of the alternator. 5. completely remove the bottom pivot bolt(#2) 6. basically wrestle out the alternator unit between engine, couple hoses and the firewall. PERFECTO! mission complete. depending on your situation #'s 5 and 4 switch around to make easier. Its ALWAYS a good idea to bring the old alternator with u when purchasing a new one. plus, they may knock a couple bucks off

There is a short in the wiring block behind the driver's side front headlight.

This is according to the Chilton's manual. Locate the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and timing belt lower cover. Start the engine and allow it to come to normal operating temperature. Make sure ALL accessories are OFF. Check idel speed and adjust if needed. (approx. 650 RPM). Turn off the engine. Connect a jumper wire between the TEN terminal and the GROUND terminal at the underhood diagnosis connector. Connect an inductive timing light according to manufacturers instructions. Start the engine and allow it to stabilize. Aim the timing light at the timing marks. The mark on the crankshaft pulley should align with the specified BTDC degree mark on the timing cover scale plus or minus 1 degree. (1995 mx6 2.5l engine is 10 degrees BTDC). There should be a sticker on the inside of the hood that has the specified timing for your car on it. If not, you can call a dealer and get that info. If the marks are aligned, then your timing is good, if not, then you need to adjust it. Loosen the distibutor lock bolts just enough to turn it. While aiming the timing light at the timing marks, turn the distributor until the marks are aligned. Tighten the distributor lock bolts to 14-19 lbs and recheck the timing. It is now set. Disconnect the jumper wire from the diagnosis connector and disconnect all test equipment. I just did this yesterday and it worked great. Good Luck!

what year is it? if it starts and dies after few seconds, then your fuel pump relay is gone bad. check for it under the instrument cluster on the driver side, just under there deep in the wall. you will see the relays, its the No 1 on the left down. The best way to test is start the car, when it wants to die , hold the key in the crank position, if it continues running, then you found the problem. Dont worry this will not hurt the starter. let me know if this help.

Replace the idle air control valve right below the throtle body this can be a very expensive part so go to a u pull it junk yard

on the driver side you have to remove the intake hose, follow the fuel line going to the fuel rail and you'll find it.

It is not a RWD car the only cars that are rear wheel drive from Mazda are the RX7's and the RX8's

Miatas are ALL RWD.

Adjust the timing. Backfiring is usually a sign that the car needs a tune up. The timing can be a big factor. Check the timing belt to see if it has jumped a tooth or two. If so, this is the reason why it would backfire. You also might want to check the tension pulleys to see if they are too tight or not tight enough.

You may want to have the ignition coils checked by a free diagnostic retailer (Autozone, for example). One of my engine coils seems to go out every few months in my '98 Continental. They are real easy to replace and certainly not free but at $20-60 per coil they aren't as bad as some things to replace on a car. If it's not this I at least tried for ya buddy. Good luck!

mx6 got no moonroof - only a sunroof and YES its interchangeable

An intermittent miss in a 94 Caprice could be something in the ignition system. Check the plug wires and ignition coil to start with.

On the top of the transmission. I leads into the fire wall so it should be easy to find.