Mazda

what size in the fuel tank 2001 ford econovan

my ones on my fc3s weigh roughly 6.4pounds

rggerger

There is nothing to "check". Look in the owners manual and change the belt according to the service requirements. They never "look" bad until they fail and destroy the engine.

Trouble code P1131 means: Lack Of HO2S11 Switches - Sensor Indicates Lean

The starter cut relay is mounted on a large U-shaped bracket just to the right of the steering wheel under the dash: barely visible through the "spaghetti." Factory manual calls this bracket the "relay box," and it also mounts several other relays. The Theft-Deterrent CPU is mounted against the outside driver's footwell (Kick-plate)and is one of three small brains in the area, near the fuse box.

On a 2000 Ford Expedition the ABS Relay problem is a problem with the braking system. Either the ABS Relay needs to be replaced or the brake pads are worn down. The ABS Relay is located in the fuse box that is on top of the battery in the engine compartment.

Behind the engine towards the top, it has two hoses connected, one on top and the other at bottom, I just replaced mine but want to get a metal one and replace the plastic one most auto parts stores sell for about $4.00

The map sensor is on the air intake line to the throttle body....

The oil pressure sensor helps to measure the amount of oil pressure in the internal chambers of the engine. To replace it, access it from the front of the engine block, remove the fuel filter first and detach the wires connecting to the outside. Unscrew the screws holding the sensor housing and remove it. Put a new one in place and return the housing, wires, and the fuel filter.

I own a 2000 B3000 2WD. To date, all repais have been consistant with those of a Ford Ranger ( Same Truck ). There are two on the ranger, both on the drive train, a simple bolt on. One on the Trany, and one on the Diff. You can see them both..

First of all I know this procedure is for a 1996 Mazda B2300 pickup which I own.There are two clamps(fasteners) to the fuel filter. The rearward one has a plastic safety clip that must be removed before the line and filter can be separated. You can use a screwdriver to pry off the plastic clip,while simletaneously spreading the "forks" of that plastic safety clip. You can buy another safety clip ant any auto parts store. Btw,if you cant manage to "spread the forked end of that clip,just pry it off and break it. Now, the front side of the filter(towards the engine) has an entirely different fastening clip. It has a metal "holding clip" to help keep the line from separating from the filter. You must first pry off this metal "holding clip" which is usually tethered to the fuel line itself via a short plastic or metal wire,to keep it from being lost. You will re-use this clip! Now you MUST use a special tool,available on loan to you for free from the auto parts store to separate the line from the filter. It is called a fuel line/ a/c line removal tool. It simply clips around the line then you push it inwards towards the filter to release the spring inside the locking mechanism. while doing this,you simply pull apart the line from the filter.

lOCTION IS 12 O-CLOCK POSITION ABOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY WITH "V" BARK ON THE OIL PUMP CASING.

It may mean that you are manually "holding" the transmission from upshifting to highest gear "Holding" in 2nd not allowing to go into 3rd or "Holding" 3rd noth allowing to go into Overdrive

Bleed the clutch the same as you would the brakes - have someone press down on the pedal while you open the bleeder valve, which should be on the bell housing near the driver's side of the engine compartment. It's below the brake fluid reservoir, might help to look at a diagram first. If you do this a few times until only brake fluid is coming out, and no air bubbles, it'll solve situations such as having to pump the pedal to get any resistance, or difficulties in shifting into first gear.

so far the only answer is to pay the dearler $35 dollars and wait 45 min. while they clear the memory of the radio. Personally, that sounds like unpluging something until the memory is erased, but as to what I am not sure.

There is a magic code for 93' models only (each year has own code), "0532" and you enter it in during the following sequence.

1 disconnect power for at least 30 sec. 2 put key in ign. and turn to aux. power or whatever setting allows the radio to play. 3. if locked out you see Err. on the screen. 4. press Scan key 5. press am/fm key 6. press Auto M key 7 press Tune up arrow 8. Enter code 0532 9. press Scan and Auto M keys same time until radio restores (5-10 sec)

Most cars and trucks today have what is called a serpentine belt which runs most accessories.They are very dependable and usually easy to replace. To decide if your belt needs replacing, simply look at the grooved side of the belt to see if it is cracking badly. A couple of cracks every 3 inches is normal, but if you see cracks every 1-2 inches I would recommend that you replace it. On most cars and trucks the procedure is basically the same. First off, get the correct belt by bringing your cars VIN number to the parts store(located on your cars dashboard) the parts store may need it. If there are two choices, get them both so you can complete the repair. Once you have the correct belt, take a minute to review how the belt runs across the pulleys and also check to see if your car/ truck has a underhood diagram of belt routing in case you need it. In most cases you will need a socket wrench or breaker bar with either a 3/8" and /or 1/2" head on it and possibly a short extension. Some models may require a wrench of these similar sizes.Now that you are ready to go to work, you will need to find the spring loaded tensioner which is generally located near the top of the belt path; it usually has a shinny pulley on it. Look at the tensioner and insert the tool into it and apply opposing pressure to release the belt.Now, simply install the new belt making sure it fits into the grooves on all the pulleys. Start the car to check it and you are done and you saved yourelf some money!

Yes but it inot easy. I have done it 3 times. You need to first get a repair manual with photos to follow and read it carefully, and get all the needed supplies and tools. you might want to use a engine cleaner degreaser and a hose or steam clean your motor so it will be easier to work on and you can clearly see all the parts. You can do it without taking of the front grill and bumper and only removing the radiator and fan but is easier to see and get to if you reemove th front bumper an grill , radiator, fan etc. on my 91 v6 the hard part was getting the Bolt on the Main crankshaft to loosen up . also lining up the gears with the corect timing marks is VERY Very Very IMPORTANT, you can doit if you are fairly mechanicaly intelligent and patient and resourceful, best to have helpful friend who has some expierience to call or come by if you have questions or get stuck. there are usually unexpected chanllenges on most projects of this type ; one bolt may be really stuborn or even break or strip off or out,be ready to maybe replace the belt and possibaly the water pump while you are in ther since they are all intertwined, it can be help full to take Digital or polaroid pictures along the way to remind you of how things were assembled in the first place, you may want to replace your belts and hose to while you already have them off . and ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! Shop around for parts and ask about a "timing best kit" that will probaly sve you some $ besure to ask what is included in the KIT? you may want to get a piece of card board, 1 ft x 1 ft or so and draw the general shape of the timing belt covers on it and the approximae positions of the bolts you are removing and then push them through the cardboard to hold them until you reassemble since they are different lengths and need to be correctly placed. Good luck My Friend Dave 949 678-7103

Mazda Discontinued the Millenia in 2002.

On the outer edges of the audio unit there are two small, soft, rubber plugs. Remove these two small plugs to reveal two small holes 1.5 inches or 35mm apart vertically. You will then need to locate one pair of what are commonly called Ford Radio Removal Tools that are available from many auto parts outlets. These tools look like a "U" shaped piece of very stiff wire with a taper and ball on either end of the "legs" of the "U". These tools will then be inserted into the exposed holes on either side of the audio units with the curved handle portion held slightly inward. Once inserted approximately 1 inch you should feel a slight "click". When both tools are installed, spread the handle portions apart while gradually pulling outward. The audio unit should pull out and allow you to disconnect the electrical connectors and antenna wire to complete removal. The tape deck and CD player portions of the audio unit are removed separately as needed.

Lift the bonnet and look at the area below the wipers. Number is comonly printed there.