Mufflers and Tailpipes

Thank-you for including the year/make/model and engine size as this was critical to my answer. The quad four has a funny ignition system, on top of the motor the is a plate with a couple bolts, remove this. Under the plate there is a ignition coil and module assy. There are also 4 boots the extend down into where the spark plugs lay. Remove each plug and check the condition of them. I would bet they are black from excessive carbon due to lack of detonation in the cylinders. If so I would be also willing to say there is a excellent probability the problem is in one or both of the coils and or the ignition module. If it were mine, I would replace the ignition module, both coil packs, spark plugs and the boots going to the plugs. If you look at the boots, the probably have a yellow-brown appearance at the base of them nearest the plugs. Or if you enjoy taking it a part and putting it back together, start with the module, boots and plugs. It is imperitive you change the oil. Fuel in the oil is getting there from the fuel not being fully ignited in the cylinders and draining into the oil. The fuel acts as a cleaner and washes the oil of the internal parts of the engine preventing lubrication. This will ruin the engine. Obviously change the filter as well. Carbon is a by-product of combustion. Poor combustion will provide more carbon. This is the black that you see. I would expect the check engine light to have come on with this condition. The catalytic converter can be compromised with this condition as unburned fuel can reach the converter and damage it as well. Since the engine is not combusting properly, the lack of power will be present, thus the surging. Be sure to get the correct spark plugs that this motor originally came with. I prefer Autolite or AC Delco regarding the brand. Get a quality brand coil and module such as Standard, Delco or Napa. Stay away from cheap, generic or white box ones. I also do not like any Autozone electrical componenets. IF you are going to fret over cost, then get a used coil/module assy from a junk yard, new plugs and boots. Good luck, post you findings please.

scrap metal

If it stops after a minute or two, it was condensation. If it continues the whole time the engine is running, it's smoke.

Depends, a nicer setup like GReddy or HKS, or maybe Skunk2 (my favorite) would run you in the several hundreds, but return atleast 10 hp and probably more like 20 hp, IF, your cars other parts are working well. Considering how easy it is to replace an exhaust system (for most people with tools) the price to horsepower ratio isn't bad. Think about it like this, for $1000 you can upgrade your exhaust, add a performance chip, change your air intake (cold air), and add a stabilizer or other suspension parts (but not the entire thing), and be kickin some a$$ on the street over most non-engine mod Hondas, Acuras, Colbalts, etc

heres a link to that exhaust by Skunk 2 (http://www.racingworks.com/skunk2_exhaust_catback.htm).

I had the same thing. There is a oil pressure gauge leaking causing it to drop right on the exhaust. Go get a Oil pressure sending unit about $7. Real easy to repalce and it will stop the smell. Might want to do a engine bright clean to get it all off. You should see oil pooling on top of the transmission.

someone in the back seat asking Whoop there it is

Yes is the short answer. You will want to change the jetting after you change the pipe the pipe manufacturer should have the specs for that. Most people claim more power and imagine there is since less restriction. That said I put the stock exhaust back on, I know I am weird but prefer the quiet over the deep throaty hog sound. I have not noticed any power loss in going back to stock.

You can't.

1. Removing a muffler will cause a drastic increase in audible engine noise up to 90 decibles; possibly higher. So loud you can't talk easily while driving.

2. Removing a muffler can cause on average a 10% decrease in fuel efficiency.

3. You will get a ticket for 'noise pollution'. When your car is unsafe or makes too much noise, the police have every right to pull you over and ticket you. It is considered a public service.

4. If you take it off, you'll have to put it back on no matter what, so save yourself the hassle.

Really it hardly allows more exhaust throught since it is a dual muffler not a true dual exhaust system. You could block one of the exhaust pippes and your car would still run fine. Most of it was for sellin props like mentioned in the previous answer. to allow more exhaust gas to flow out than a 4 cylinder. and for selling purpose

Sorry, but there is not enough room (in a few places) for a dual exhaust - the cross over pipe shift it to the drivers side and if you look at the car from the back , you'll also see that the gas tank is offset to the drivers side. I'm sure you might find a custom shop that will bend you new pipes but the fit will be way off - you'd be better off putting in a new pipe from the crossover to the back but have them use a larger pipe - it'll give you a bit of a boost - banknotes@rogers.com

This is a pain in the butt Job.

The Original system is all welded 1 piece.

So Slide under the car and figure out what parts you need.

Usually the tail pipes, muffler and Catalitic converter to Muffler are all sold seperatly.

Now you need a saw, I use a Construction saw with metal blade, a hack saw will do but its tough work, If you have a cutting torch that makes it easy.

You can, in this order: Disconect Pipe a Catalitic convereter, Suport system at tail pipes and toward catalitic converter. Disconect all suport points usually by undoing or cutting clamps.

Drop the whole mess on the ground and drag it out from under the car.

Cut the pipes as close to the muffler as possible.

Test fit all new and old parts together triming and determineing what additional clamps and such you need. DO NOT TIGHTEN ANYTHING!

Slide the pile of parts under the car, test fit everything. At this point you need blocks of wood etc to suport the system in place.

Hangers First tighten and align everything as you go.

Allow a whole Sunday or Saturday, its time consuming but not particuallarly dificult.

You get a ticket for noise violation

yes they do come with it, different size too.

Blue smoke is a sign of oil burning. I'm not sure if your 170 is gas or diesel, or, if they even had a gas model. But either way, the only difference would be if there were a turbo on the diesel. If the smoking started all of a sudden, it could be a turbo going out or the seal in the turbo leaking oil into the exhaust. It could also be a cracked piston ring, or a cracked piston, and they could cause blue smoke gradually or immediately. If there is a turbo on your skidloader, remove the exhaust pipe right at the turbo. If the turbo is failing, you should see some unburned oil right there. If not, the problem is further back in the engine. I have a Gehl with a Ford gas engine. Ford used a rubber stem seal at the top of each valve under the valve cover. With time they would dry out and crack allowing oil to seep down the valve stem into the engine causing a lot of smoke. Whether gas or diesel, your engine may have something similar, or, you could also have a cracked or bad valve guide.

The best place to purchase Harley Davidson exhaust parts will be at your local Harley Davidson dealer. This will ensure that you are getting a genuine part that is of high quality.

Replacement parts for exhaust systems in older cars may not be too easy to find. Scrap yards are a great place to start looking, as they have a larger supply of older cars available. Some auto parts stores, like Canadian Tire or NAPA, may have some available to be ordered in.

no that shouldn't make the check engine light to come on but that's not good on the fuel pump i would change the gas in the tank

Your boiler tank may be too small for your needs, the thermostat set point too low, or, you may be spending way too much time in the shower and need to give someone else a chance. With regards to the boiler tank being too small, it is obvious that if it only heats twelve gallons at a time, it is probably inadequate. Most units maintain hot water in the capacity of thirty to fifty gallons. Choose according to recommendations based on your needs. As to the thermostat, a setting too low may cause a user to overuse the hot water supply side. In other words, if the tank is set to hold only moderately hot water, a shower user may crank the supply handle all the way over to the hot side, thus quickly draining the inadequately heated water quickly, in turn causing the unit to run repeatedly under this excessive demand. If you require water hotter than the tank is storing, turn the thermostat on the unit to a higher setting. CAUTION: HIGHER SETTINGS CAN CAUSE SCALDING, AND CONSIDER THE SENSITIVITY OF OTHER USERS!!!! Lastly, as far as the amount of time spent in the shower, only consider the above two comments and disregard my unsolicited opinion. Good luck!

White smoke is uaully a sign of a blown head gasket, the seal between the engine block and the heads with the valves. When the gasket blows it leaves a gap so coolant gets into the combustion chamber and mixes with the fuel and apprears as white smoke. Check your coolant level and pull your dipstick and see if your oil is becoming foamy.

Spark plug wires are installed incorrectly, or the enigne is out of time. Too much fule that is not being combusted in the engine. Fuel gets into the hot exhaust, then ignites.

depends on whether the exhaust is blowing from the top or the the bottom of the the exhaust, if from the top you will need an exhast bandage which might fix the problem, if under neath use exhaust putty such as gun gum , if the muffler rattles when you rev the engine,sorry but you will have to buy a new one this is not repairable.

It can be nothing more than condensation when you first start the engine. But it may be more serious. White smoke from the exhaust can be a sign that coolant is entering the combustion chamber. Normally this would indicate a blown head gasket, but on some vehicles where the coolant flows through the intake manifold, it can indicate a blown intake gasket. Bottom line is, that if, coolant is entering the combustion chamber, you must find out from where. Are you loosing coolant, even a small amount? If you indeed have coolant entering the combustion chamber it will cause engine damage.

It can be nothing more than condensation when you first start the engine. But it may be more serious. White smoke from the exhaust can be a sign that coolant is entering the combustion chamber. Normally this would indicate a blown head gasket, but on some vehicles where the coolant flows through the intake manifold, it can indicate a blown intake gasket. Bottom line is, that if, coolant is entering the combustion chamber, you must find out from where. Are you loosing coolant, even a small amount? If you indeed have coolant entering the combustion chamber it will cause engine damage.

The exhast valves are larger.