Power Steering

this job requires a special tool that you can buy or rent from the local auto parts store , ask them how to use the product because telling on a computer just doesnt cut it, you need to visually see it, trust me.

Low power steering fluid or fluid pressure, due to a leak or component failure.

It adjusts how much power assist is given. In one direction less boost is given than in the other. To me it works much better in the 'less assist' position. In the 'more assist' position is too much assistance, you lose the feel of the road and can oversteer very easily. But if one was weak or disabled the extra help could be useful. Note this is controlled by the same processor that handles air bag suspension. If a fuse for air bag suspension had blown or been pulled, you will be on full assist all the time regardless of how the switch is set.

Rear P/S top of engine. A black cap with orange writing that says Power Steering.

if the noise is a high pitched squealing noise, the belt is slipping....if the noise is a whine or growling noise, the pump is low on fluid or the pump is bad

answeres does not know

It a pretty difficult job for someone who isn't a mechanic, but if you have the tools and want to try it, go for it. You will save yorself A LOT of money on labor (because I would charge a pretty penny on this car)

Tools:Good socket and wrench set, pair of pliers, *pitman arm puller, and some screwdrivers.

Procedure:1) loosen lug nuts2) jack up and support front of car (both sides)3) remove wheel4) remove the cotter pin from tie rod end and remove nut (17mm) tie rod end is located behind the brake rotor on the side closest to the fire wall)5) use your pitman arm puller (you could use a ball joint seperator fork, but arm puller is generally easier) to pop the tie rod end out of the nuckle.6) turn the tie rod end jam nut to the right to move it up the tie rod some. this will allow the tie rod end to turn so you can remove it. Count the turns it takes to get the tie rod end off.7) remove the tie rod end and jam nut and save them. You will need to put these back on your new rack.8) repeat steps 3 through 7 on the other side9) remove the air filter box (top and bottom) and disconnect the intace duct work to allow access to fittings on rack10) remove the hydraulic lines with a wrench (there are two. one leads in, and one returns p/s fluid) PS fluid will flow freely. you should catch this in a drain pan. I wouldn't reuse it, though. There could be contaminates in it from the damaged rack (depends how bad it was damaged)11) there is what appears to be some sort of solenoid with two vacuum lines on the opposite side of the two hydraulic lines. remove those lines, and unscrew the solenoid. save this. you will need it for your new rack.12) there is a plastic cover held in by small nuts just above the hydraulic lines where the rack is joined with that universal joint and the steering wheel assembly. remove this cover.13) there is one bolt that holds the spline coming from the rack into the u-joint. remove this completely14) there is another bolt inside the driver compartment on the top side of the u-joint. if you remove this, you can slide that u-jount up the spline and separate it from the rack. your car has an unusual ammount of leeway there. that is lucky for you.15) there are two brackets holding the rack to the firewall. each has two bolts. (one on top, one on bottom.) remove these two brackets and save the rubber behind them. If the rubber isn't there, or is not any good, you could just cut some radiator hose and wedge it in when you put them back. It just helps keep the rack from moving (which it generally won't anyway.)16) it is recommended that you remove that transmission mount that is right in the way, but it is possible to work around it. once the rack is completely free of all connections, brackets, and the u-joint, you will have to wiggle it out. The easiest way (listen carefully. this is tricky, but it will work) is to slide the rack toward the driver's side as far as it will go, making sure the tie rod on the passenger side is out of it's hole and free to move about. then, tilt the passenger side of the rack down and wedge it between the oil pan and the c/v axle. You will probably have to rotate the rack a half turn to make the spline face down. I don't believe you can get it out with it facing up. It should, with a little work, slide out.17) if you actually made it this far, you should become a mechanic. Istallation is exactly the reverse of removal. you may have some trouble connecting the steering wheel to the rack so that the wheels and the steering wheel is straight. the easiest (really the only) way is to put everything back together and set the car down. straighten the wheels and then you can disconnect that u-joint again and set it straight. The only thing to keep in mind when putting the new rack is remembering how many turns it took to get the tie rod ends off. This should get it somewhat close to proper alignment, but not close enough. You will still need a front end alignment after replacing the rack. That's just one of those things. and do not forget to put power steering fluid back in!!!!! Good luck.

It is the distance of movement that you can turn your steering wheel without it actually turning your tires. "My first car had a lot of play in the steering."

Watch P.S. level Place newspaper under vehicle

Assuming the drive belt is there and has the proper tension, my guess would be the power steering pump is bad.

Since There is no tensioner pulley you have to loosen your alternator.

in the engine compartment

It is time for a professional car mechanic to have a look. The steering may be caused by dry joints (needs greasing), the revs may need the engine to be adjusted to run slower.

Replacing your power steering pump is a relatively easy task with the correct tools. Those being the pulley removal and installation tools, often sold in a kit. You will also need a pair of pliers, and open end wrenches. First remove the drive belt. Place a drain pan under the pump to catch the power steering fluid. Detach the two hoses on the back of the unit, which are the pressure and return lines. Remove top bracket nut which secures the battery ground cable. Then proceed to remove the bracket mounting bolts. Typically a replacement pump will be sold without the pulley. Hence the necessity of the pulley installation and removal tools. You can also save a little by re-using the old reservoir. The installation is just the reverse of the removal. Be sure to replace any o-rings. After mounting the new pump and re-installing the drive belt, fill the reservoir with power steering fluid and bleed the system to remove any air by jacking up the front of the vehicle, start the engine and allow it to run at fast idle, if necessary add more fluid to bring the level of fluid to the cold mark on the dipstick. Begin bleeding the system by turning the wheels side to side without hitting the stops. Keep the reservoir full of fluid as this is done. when all of the air is worked out of the system return wheels to the straight ahead position and allow to run for several minutes more. Road test to insure proper operation of your steering components. Recheck fluid level to be sure it reaches the hot mark when the engine is at normal operating temperature.

In the unmodified corsa (c) I find at speed or during hard acceleration in the 1st and 2nd gears that the steering is like driving on ice and at times can make me slightly nervous. But its not really much of a problem on straight roads or roads with slight curves however when taking tight corners the corsa definitely benefits from late and hard braking to force the nose down to keep the tyres in touch or the car has a habit of understeering. Lower the car 40mm and buy better tyres and the problem will be greatly reduced.

the power steering reservoir is located next to coolant expansion tank in the engine compartment.

Typically, it may start to make a fairly loud humming noise, especially when turning the steering wheel (a little noise is sometimes normal). It may also 'pulse' when turning the wheel or while driving straight. While turning, steering may intermittently become stiff and then easy. The power steering fluid reservoir may be low (this should be checked regularly and never be allowed to run low). Power steering fluid leaks may be present (check for spots under the vehicle and/or 'wet' power steering lines and components). Also, many shops can help diagnose the problem for little or no cost. Try and find one you trust and take advantage of their expertise.

Clean the power steering are real good check for where the leak is coming from and go from there. For example if a hose is leaking replace hose, if power steering pump seals are leaking replace pump, exc.

In my 1994 ram 250, 5.9 ltr, I use a long nozzle funnel.

With the engine cold, remove the cap on the power steering pump. Inside the cap is a dipstick with a marking for both the cold and hot fluid levels

Lower ball joints call for 1.7 hrs per side for labor, app. $50 per hour = app. $85 per side for labor.

If you have the SS, it's toward the back on the passenger side but its low in the engine compartment. It's kind of behind/underneath the alternator. It's very difficult to get at. I need to check mine out too but I think I'm going to have to take it somewhere.

The alternator will move in and out to tighten the belt and the PS pump will do the same

The PS Reservoir is located in the engine bay and is marked "ATF Fluid Only." The ATF fluid I use for my 528i's PS is Redline D4 ATF, but you can use any Dexron 4 - grade ATF such as Mobile 1. Good luck.