Pulleys

Serpentine belt and pulley diagrams at www.alldatapro.com

I suppose you could, but these idler pulley's are not that expensive to replace the whole thing. They do fail (a weakpoint for these motors), but usually give some audible warning, also check for loosness. Do your best to purchase the steel idler pulley and the bearing will come with. When these items do "let go" they can leave you stranded, if you see a problem replace as soon as possible. Hope this helps. "G"

remove serpentine belt center bolt in idler remove, and install new pulleyand rplace belt the way it came off

Look at the front of the engine and down low you should see a large pulley (a metal wheel that the fanbelt runs on). On the outer circumference of that pully should be marks stamped into the metal. There should be a small tab visible that lines up with the marks on the pulley.

Although I am not familiar with your '92 Lincoln, the answer is pretty well generic to all vehicles. Assuming that new tension/idler pulley is available [in some cases, the entire tensioner arm assembly is sold as a single unit], its replacement is fairly simple. The tensioner arm assembly consists of an "arm," with an idler pulley on one end and a spring loaded pivot on the other end, which is mounted to the engine with a single bolt right through the center of the pivot. IF it is ONLY the idler pulley which requires replacement, then you do not have to remove the tension arm, and the following steps apply. 1. With a "breaker bar handle," and a socket which fits the pully bolt hex head, lever the tension arm just enough to allow removal of the serpentine belt from the idler pulley. This bolt ALSO mounts the idler pulley to the tension arm. Be VERY CAREFUL to draw an ACCURATE diagram of the belt routing over ALL pulleys. Then, if you use string to tie the belt away from the tensioner pulley assembly, BUT firmly attached to all the other pulleys, you can finish the job WITHOUT removing the belt entirely. The other option, if you are knowledgable, or have the guts, is to remove the belt entirely. 2. Then, using the same socket and breaker bar, on the same center mounting bolt in idler pulley, remove the bolt and the pulley. With a replacement pully being available, installation and reassembly is simply a matter of reversing this procedure. As the tension is pre-set, no adjustment is necessary. j3h.

Go to www.zzperformance.com and you will be able to rent a pulley puller do not use a regular pulley puller they. It is about 30 bucks to rent. It will take about an hour to do

The easiest way to access the pulley is to remove the front right wheel and fender liner. The pulley will be right behind the liner.

there is one, but two if you count your belt tensoiner.

near the belt

27mm

You need a really massive impact wrench--something that cranks off from 300 to 400 lb-ft of torque. A lot of people at Tegger's Honda FAQ swear by the DeWalt 1/2" drive electric, which puts out 350 lb-ft. Ridgid (sold at Home Depot) sells a 1/2" drive model that kicks off 400 lb-ft. Harbor Freight sells one that is 3/4" drive (they also sell 3/4"-1/2" adapters because 3/4" drive impact sockets are generally huge) and that develops 400 lb-ft torque. I work at Home Depot but I bought my wrench from Harbor Freight...the $80 I saved bought sockets, the adapter and beer.

Air wrenches? The ones that develop enough torque are really expensive and they don't really work any better.

An impact wrench this big will screw that bolt out so fast you won't need to lock the crankshaft.

there is a hole on the rear of the block on the drivers side located just behind the rear balance shaft so you can lock your engine #1 cylinder @ TDC with a 6mmX100mm bolt or screwdriver. there is a hole machined into the balance shaft that holds everything still so you can get done....I would also recommend the use of an impact....

I just change my timing belt and water pump. In order to do this, you must drop the engine and remove the crankshaft pulley.

I could not have done it correctly had I not purchased a Chilton's Repair Manual.

Also, you will probably have to purchase or make a special tool in order to get the nut loose, although you might be able to do it with an impact wrench.

Either way, Chilton's gives a very detail explanation of how to do everything without messing up your timing. It explains how to set TDC (top dead center) on the #1 cylinder.

Don't try using a breaker bar and hitting the starter. These Hondas turn the wrong way for that.

Honda makes a tool that has a hex head which fits in the crankshaft pulley, with a hole in the middle that you can fit the required 19" socket. I refused to wait for the dealer parts department to open M-F to get the special Honda tool which holds the crankshaft pulley and I'm too cheap to spend the $50 bucks. So, I went to Lowes and got a 1.5" X 2" galvanized coupling and a 1.5" X 1" galvanized bushing. The bushing has a hex head that was slightly too big. I used an angle grinder to shave it down and each side. I needed the coupling to give me enough length to get past the pulley. I then used a 12" pipe wrench on this with a brick wedged under it. the handle of the pipewrench was under the coupling the pointing to the front of the car. I had to turn the pulley with my breaker bar to get tension on this as it didn't fit snug enough to hold itself up. Initially, I found the only progress I was making was continuing to tighten the bushing/coupling joint but eventually it bottomed out and the torque started to apply to the bolt.

Next, I couldn't figure out how to get a long cheater on the breaker bar. Here, my friend led me to add to my 19mm, 1/2" drive socket, 10" and 6" extensions (16" total). I supported these extensions with a jack stand. I attached my 18" breaker bar to the extensions and a 4 foot cheater pipe to the breaker bar. I put all my weight on the pipe and in a few seconds I heard that beautiful snap of the bolt breaking loose. Once I got the right leverage, it was a piece of cake. Getting the right leverage took two days of talking to a whole bunch of people, trying many different setups, using heat, a sledge hammer and my friends impact. Ultimately, it all goes back to leverage.

YOU DONT HAVE TO DROP THE ENGINE FOR THAT!!! ITS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO GET IT OFF THOUGH. THERES A TOOL CALLED A PULLEY HOLDER THAT YOU CAN USE IF ALL ELSE FAILS.

The comment about the galvanized coupling needs an addendum: For some reason no one can understand, Honda used three different crank pulleys on Accords. Only one of them works with the galvanized coupling tool, but if you have one of those pulleys the aforementioned tool works very well.

Household objects that use pulleys are blinds, garage doors, and clothes lines are just a few examples. Hope this may help!! Cheers!!

Use a "straight edge" to make sure that the "valley" area (where the belt rides) is in alignment with the other pulleys

Belt tensioner? Idler pulley?

It is the cast iron shaft in an internal cumbustion engine which is driven by the pistons in a circular fashion. The shaft in turn transmits power to the transmission or gearbox. It also drives the pulleys which power your alternator, water pump, A/C, power steering & brakes or other accessories.
The cranksfat turns up and down movement into rotational movement.
crank shaft is nothing but the part of vehicle which is connected with piton with suitable rod to transfer power produced by engine to fly wheel.

It requires a special PULLER to get the pulley off and too press it back on. Some auto parts stores will rent it to you.

Try resetting the computer first, you do this by disconnecting the battery for 5 min and then reconnecting it. You may want to check the fuse for the 4 wheel drive first.

In most cases you can purchase the bearing and pulley as an assembly from your local auto parts store.

the bolt comes out with the oposite lefty tighty and righty loossey. over righty tighty and lefty loosey

Not a good idea. The P/S cooler is there for a reason. But if you must then just purchase a coupling, and couple the inlet and outlet hoses from the cooler together. Be sure that you buy high pressure hose and the proper clamps.

The bearing gets old and starts to heat up. The pulley fatigues... It's all just part of stuff wearing out.

I bought a 17mm ring end wrench to apply to the belt tensioner pulley nut. When you bear down on this, the tensioner pulley moves out of the way and the belt can be replaced or removed much more easily. I suggest you check the necessary wrench size before you buy one, just to be sure for your application.

A static force is a frictional force between two forces!

If your car has a serpentine belt it will have a tensioner pulley. A tensioner pulley is easy to spot. All of your bolt on accessories i.e. water pump, alternator, a/c compressor etc. will have a pulley to run each one. There will be 2 other types of pulleys, a idler pulley and a tensioner. The idler pulley will be a single stationary pulley with a bolt going through the middle and the tensioner pulley will be on a spring loaded piviot.

You dont adjust the tension on a serpentine belt, Dodge uses a spring loaded tensioner located just below the alternator, If your belt is loose it is either worn, the wrong size belt or your tensioner has frozen and not moving. If it is a brand new belt I would suggest making sure the correct one was given to you from the auto parts store. If the belt has been on the vehicle for an extended period of time I would suggest replacing it.