Radiators

Answer

There might be air trapped in the radiator, try bleeding.

It's usually a flow problem. If the valves on all of the radiators are wide open, the steam will flow through the path of least resistance, often leaving some of the radiators lacking for heat. Try turning down the flow on some of the hotter radiators. You will need to spend a little time adjusting the flow... assuming that you have flow adjusting valves on the radiators. These old cast iron radiators have sections that are bolted together. Each section has a gasket to keep the steam or hot water INSIDE the radiator. Of course these old radiators collect rust over the years unless you are very careful and scientific about your water chemistry (most folks are not). You probably have a plugged hole in one of the gaskets between the section of the radiator that is getting hot and the section that is not getting hot. This "cold" section is being bypassed and not receiving any flow.

SLIDE OFF THE LOWER RADIATOR HOSE AT THE RADIATOR...

under the radiator, driver side.

Antifreeze manufacturers recommend changing the coolant once a year, and some service manuals stipulate flushing and refilling the radiator every 24 months, regardless of mileage. Antifreeze Importance Antifreeze serves two important functions: protecting the cooling system at temperature extremes and inhibiting rust and corrosion in the system. Many antifreezes also have additives that help lubricate the water pump and thermostat, so coolant has multiple advantages over plain water. Glycol Styles Antifreeze's active ingredient is glycol. "Standard" coolants contain ethylene glycol (EG), which is toxic to people, pets, wildlife and groundwater. In recent years, less-toxic antifreezes containing propylene glycol have become available. These products advertise comparable cooling qualities to EG antifreezes but with less environmental impact. Either way, always clean up any coolant spills/radiator boil-overs promptly. Draining & Flushing Rust and sediment can accumulate in the cooling system. Flushing the radiator helps keep the cooling system clean. Begin by parking the car away from kids, pets and storm drains. Elevating the car on ramps can make the job easier. With the ignition off, engine cool, car in Park and emergency brake set, remove the radiator cap. Place a bucket or pan (minimum 2-gallon capacity) under the radiator drain plug and open it. Close the plug once the coolant flow ends. For more thorough draining, remove the plug(s) in the engine block (if so equipped) to release the coolant that remains in the engine. If the old coolant appears rusty or contaminated, flush the system with a radiator-cleaning product to further remove sediment. With all drain plugs closed, fill the radiator with a flush/cleaner product and plain water. Then run the vehicle with the heater on high for as long as the flush product's instructions specify. Once the engine cools, drain the flushing solution, refill the radiator with plain water, and repeat the sequence following the flush's instructions. Refilling Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and the antifreeze bottle for proper coolant-to-water ratio, which can vary between 40% and 70% antifreeze based on vehicle and climate. Fill the radiator appropriately then fill the overflow reservoir to the appropriate level with a 50/50 mix. Clean up any spills immediately. Close the cap(s) and run the vehicle up to operating temperature with the heater on high to circulate the coolant throughout the system. Once the engine cools, check for leaks. After a few days of driving, double-check the coolant mixture with a hydrometer or test strips (both of which are available inexpensively from the parts store) and adjust the concentration as necessary. Additives Various chemical additives are formulated to improve cooling-system performance while you drive. Rust inhibitors are designed to reduce oxidation and neutralize acids; many also include lubricants for the water pump and thermostat. Other chemicals improve the coolant's heat-dissipation properties and claim up to a 20-degree F reduction in operating temperature. Flushing your car's cooling system isn't the most glamorous way to spend a Saturday morning. But just as your refrigerator's coils need periodic vacuuming for proper operation, keeping the car's cooling system clean is cheaper and easier than the consequences of ignoring it. Most motorists know it's recommended that our vehicle's oil should be changed about every 3,000 miles. Drivers are less educated, however, about proper intervals for their vehicle's other vital fluids. For the cooling system, antifreeze manufacturers recommend changing the coolant once a year, and some service manuals stipulate flushing and refilling the radiator every 24 months, regardless of mileage. Antifreeze Importance Antifreeze serves two important functions: protecting the cooling system at temperature extremes and inhibiting rust and corrosion in the system. Many antifreezes also have additives that help lubricate the water pump and thermostat, so coolant has multiple advantages over plain water. Glycol Styles Antifreeze's active ingredient is glycol. "Standard" coolants contain ethylene glycol (EG), which is toxic to people, pets, wildlife and groundwater. In recent years, less-toxic antifreezes containing propylene glycol have become available. These products advertise comparable cooling qualities to EG antifreezes but with less environmental impact. Either way, always clean up any coolant spills/radiator boil-overs promptly. Draining & Flushing Rust and sediment can accumulate in the cooling system. Flushing the radiator helps keep the cooling system clean. Begin by parking the car away from kids, pets and storm drains. Elevating the car on ramps can make the job easier. With the ignition off, engine cool, car in Park and emergency brake set, remove the radiator cap. Place a bucket or pan (minimum 2-gallon capacity) under the radiator drain plug and open it. Close the plug once the coolant flow ends. For more thorough draining, remove the plug(s) in the engine block (if so equipped) to release the coolant that remains in the engine. If the old coolant appears rusty or contaminated, flush the system with a radiator-cleaning product to further remove sediment. With all drain plugs closed, fill the radiator with a flush/cleaner product and plain water. Then run the vehicle with the heater on high for as long as the flush product's instructions specify. Once the engine cools, drain the flushing solution, refill the radiator with plain water, and repeat the sequence following the flush's instructions. Refilling Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and the antifreeze bottle for proper coolant-to-water ratio, which can vary between 40% and 70% antifreeze based on vehicle and climate. Fill the radiator appropriately then fill the overflow reservoir to the appropriate level with a 50/50 mix. Clean up any spills immediately. Close the cap(s) and run the vehicle up to operating temperature with the heater on high to circulate the coolant throughout the system. Once the engine cools, check for leaks. After a few days of driving, double-check the coolant mixture with a hydrometer or test strips (both of which are available inexpensively from the parts store) and adjust the concentration as necessary. Additives Various chemical additives are formulated to improve cooling-system performance while you drive. Rust inhibitors are designed to reduce oxidation and neutralize acids; many also include lubricants for the water pump and thermostat. Flushing your car's cooling system isn't the most glamorous way to spend a Saturday morning. But just as your refrigerator's coils need periodic vacuuming for proper operation, keeping the car's cooling system clean is cheaper and easier than the consequences of ignoring it. A reverse flush is the best way. I would get one of the Prestone flush kits and follow the directions. That is if you like to do things yourself, if you don't has a radiator shop do it and tell them you want the radiator flushed and not drained. Usually, if a radiator gets plugged, you will not be able to clear the blockage just by flushing it. Radiator shops are able to pull the "tanks" from either end and use a rod to clear the blockage. The process is called "rodding" the radiator. Generally, it isn't terribly expensive but is definitely worth the effort if your engine is overheating. A good radiator shop can usually recondition the radiator and it will be as efficient as when it was new. On the other hand, some of the newer radiators with plastic tanks do not seem to be as easily repaired. The radiator shop will be able to tell you if they can repair your radiator.

there is a radiator plug on the bottom passenger side of the radiatior, take that out and flush from the radiator cap.

park your car on a steep hill and let run until you see or hear all the air bubbles come out

In most vehicles, you will find the drain valve at the bottom of the radiator. Look on the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side of the truck. It is a small plastic hand operated twist nut.

Antifreeze manufacturers recommend changing the coolant once a year, and some service manuals stipulate flushing and refilling the radiator every 24 months, regardless of mileage. Antifreeze Importance Antifreeze serves two important functions: protecting the cooling system at temperature extremes and inhibiting rust and corrosion in the system. Many antifreezes also have additives that help lubricate the water pump and thermostat, so coolant has multiple advantages over plain water. Glycol Styles Antifreeze's active ingredient is glycol. "Standard" coolants contain ethylene glycol (EG), which is toxic to people, pets, wildlife and groundwater. In recent years, less-toxic antifreezes containing propylene glycol have become available. These products advertise comparable cooling qualities to EG antifreezes but with less environmental impact. Either way, always clean up any coolant spills/radiator boil-overs promptly. Draining & Flushing Rust and sediment can accumulate in the cooling system. Flushing the radiator helps keep the cooling system clean. Begin by parking the car away from kids, pets and storm drains. Elevating the car on ramps can make the job easier. With the ignition off, engine cool, car in Park and emergency brake set, remove the radiator cap. Place a bucket or pan (minimum 2-gallon capacity) under the radiator drain plug and open it. Close the plug once the coolant flow ends. For more thorough draining, remove the plug(s) in the engine block (if so equipped) to release the coolant that remains in the engine. If the old coolant appears rusty or contaminated, flush the system with a radiator-cleaning product to further remove sediment. With all drain plugs closed, fill the radiator with a flush/cleaner product and plain water. Then run the vehicle with the heater on high for as long as the flush product's instructions specify. Once the engine cools, drain the flushing solution, refill the radiator with plain water, and repeat the sequence following the flush's instructions. Refilling Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and the antifreeze bottle for proper coolant-to-water ratio, which can vary between 40% and 70% antifreeze based on vehicle and climate. Fill the radiator appropriately then fill the overflow reservoir to the appropriate level with a 50/50 mix. Clean up any spills immediately. Close the cap(s) and run the vehicle up to operating temperature with the heater on high to circulate the coolant throughout the system. Once the engine cools, check for leaks. After a few days of driving, double-check the coolant mixture with a hydrometer or test strips (both of which are available inexpensively from the parts store) and adjust the concentration as necessary. Additives Various chemical additives are formulated to improve cooling-system performance while you drive. Rust inhibitors are designed to reduce oxidation and neutralize acids; many also include lubricants for the water pump and thermostat. Other chemicals improve the coolant's heat-dissipation properties and claim up to a 20-degree F reduction in operating temperature. Flushing your car's cooling system isn't the most glamorous way to spend a Saturday morning. But just as your refrigerator's coils need periodic vacuuming for proper operation, keeping the car's cooling system clean is cheaper and easier than the consequences of ignoring it.

if radiator was just put in and refilled you may need to get air out of the hose lines to get the water to circulate. some late mod cars have a vent port on the area near the t stat. or goose neck. i have been able to squeese the hose some and get it moving . check the temp of the hose after the engine is running some dont let it run too long or get too hot. you might check with manufactor service dept. for that perticular model.

Talked to a neighborhood mechanic-he looked and could not find a petcock-he called a service deptmartment and was told not all 2000 Dakotas have a petcock and I should pull the lower hose and clean out the coolant reservoir by siponing the fluid out and flush and sipon until the water was clear. Believe this guy!!! I searched the net to find the radiator drain on my 2000 Dodge Dakota. I found about 6 answers that said it was on the lower part of the radiator on the drivers side. I found this answer and one more that said it didn't have a drain. I searched for it for half a day and decided that mine doesn't have a drain. I removed the hose to the water pump and some coolant drained out. I then ran a hose from the fawcet to my radiator and let the water overflow. I then disconnected the hose from the fawcet and let it syphon. I repeated this several times. I also removed the cap on the upper hose that mounts on top of the engine and flushed this hose with water. When you refill the radiator be sure to remove this upper hose from it's mounting clamp and hold it up and fill hose so that it will run into the engine. Otherwise you will create an air lock and cook your motor

It should be on the passenger side of the radiator in the back (engine side) by the lower radiator hose. It is possible that it is on the driver side as well. Regardless, it will either be a white or black plastic threaded plug, or it will be a draincock which looks similar to a wing nut.

The radiator is more than likely plastic and cannot be repaired ..DO NOT use any of those quick fix things like the radiator repair crud .. just take it like a man and replace the radiator............

On the bottom right of the radiator there should be a small square piece that is the plug. You twist it out and the coolant will come out.

I know that the early 90's have two round rubber mounts above the radiator near the windshield fluid reservoir, and one towards your battery. You would first want to unbolt those from your front framing that your hood latch is mounted to. A 10mm. socket makes this simple. Then you must remove the radiator hose that runs into the radiator near your battery, and another one that is on the passenger side at the bottom of the radiator. They will either have clamps with screws on them that you will need a flat head screwdriver for, or the mostly likely option is they will have clamps on them that you squeeze together to slide down the hose using pliers. Make sure you slide them 3-4 inches or more away from where they originally were because you must clear the flare that is on the pipe inside the tubbing. Next, you would want to remove your fan so that the radiator comes out easier. There is a bolt at the top of the fan shroud near the passenger side, and one below the pipe that you will have just recently removed the rubber tubbing from near the battery. Once you have removed these, unplug the fan and it you will pull it up and out. You may have to wiggle it around a little if it is caught up on something. Lastly you will need to unscrew the transmission lines that run into the passenger side of the radiator. You will want to use a crescent wrench for this. Also, there are two brackets that hold the lines to the bottom of the radiator. Make sure to unbolt those first or you may crimp or snap the lines. After all of this is done, you will simply have to pull the radiator up and out as with the fan.

Depending on model, the radiator cooling fan(s) will be replaced by disconnecting the power (an automotive connector) then physically unbolting it from the radiator. Newer vehicles with less room in the engine compartment might require pulling the radiator, fans and all and then disconnecting it. Pretty much the same thing.

Just remove the trim around it. You may have a couple of screws around the ashtray. Make sure to look for and remove all screws in the trim and then just pry the cover off. This should allow you access to the fan switch. It should be held in by a couple of screws. Those switch controls are just pushed on so they should pull off pretty easily. Once you get all of that out of the way, you should be able to see what you have to do. And no, they don't go out regularly, but any switch is capable of failure after 10 years of use.

As a matter of fact I've seen these switches fail in many metros....to be honest it is a poor design with a small steel ball sandwiched between plastic and copper. It does function as a variable speed switch but the ball can become caught when the plastic warms and cause switch failure. auto yard is the best place to find replacement and repair parts for these. fan switch is common throughout the metro/sprint years.

I agree with the poor design... if the existing switch is repairable... you can fashion a wire clip or strap to hold the back of the switch together... yes the heat and use will cause the plastic clips to fail and the spring will push the switch apart.

You will have to unplug the switch to get access... in order to avoid having to remove the vent cables you can unplug the switch and turn the assembly enough to pull it partially out of dash to get to the switch parts... be careful cause the ball is spring loaded.

Bottom of radiator on driver side. open radiator cap, and turn drain plug at bottom counter clockwise, you should see the water/coolant drain out. Once empty, place water hose on radiator and let it flush for a few minutes or till you see the water come out clear, shut off the water, let radiator drain, screw drain plug back in place and fill radiator with a mixture or 50/50 water/coolant.

the radiator fan fuse for a 98 cavalier(30 amp) is on the top of the fender well, under the hood, driver's side there should be a fan relay and protection circuit of some kind, read up everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and a professional shop manual should be available at the library in the reference section--you can make copies of the necessary information...good luck :)

It is fairly simple,maybe one of the simplest job on an escort.First unplug your battery ground,between motor and radiator is your fan,unplug connector,undo 3or4 no.10 mm bolts,take to autozone,replace.

Usually there will be a repeating chirping noise during engine running, also your tempurture gauge reads hot . with me, i was leaking antifreeze/coolant, but not all the time

Blown head gasket, wrapped or cracked head. Can also possibly be Transmission fluid, entering due to a leak within the radiator.

Probably about a quart as long as you keep the fluid from draining out of the cooling lines once you disconnect them.

The thermostat could be bad not opening when the temperature reaches the opeing stage and the water is boiling back over to the tank and over flowing....

It could be a number of things. Timing, bad thermostat, bad fan or just low on antifreeze.

coolant is most likely leaking into combustion chamber,via cracked head