Radiators

1. Check coolant level 2. Check to see if you have heat in the cabin 3. Feel the hoses and see if you feel any coolant passing thru them. Be careful the hoses can be hot. 4. Your thermostat may be stuck not allowing coolant to circulate 5. Your water pump has quit and will not circulate the coolant even with a good thermostat.

The radiator drain on a 1995 - 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 Classic pick-up truck is located at the inside bottom left corner of the radiator (driver's side facing the wheel). It is difficult to access due to the front metal wheel well guard (using hands to slightly bend - an inch or so out - the lower inside front corner into the wheel well provides a little better access without removing any bolts & you can bend it back later to its original position). The radiator drain petcock is plastic with a plastic turning blade. You will need a narrow diameter petcock tool to open this as it tends to stick if not opened/closed for a couple years and there in almost no room to use your fingers. (I made a quick "tool" out of a 10 inch long piece of 1/2" thick-wall PVC by cutting a 3/16" wide by 1/2" deep notch into one end, drilled two 1/8" thru holes at 90 degrees to each other thru the opposite end and used a nail in these holes for leverage to turn the "tool" - saved $12+ and a 30 mile trip to the parts store). The petcock needs to be turned approximately 90 - 120 degreescounterclockwise to pop out and open (do not force further counterclockwise or you may break the petcock!). The contents of the radiator will run onto the frame due to GMC's poor engineering) and drip from several places, so have additional buckets ready to chase the mess. (The draining process was relatively slow, taking about 10 minutes to drain 8.2 quarts of old fluid, so be patient!). Often Overlooked: Don't forget to remove the old antifreeze mix from the overflow reservoir (on the passenger side firewall). Carefully remove the overflow hose from the radiator at the radiator cap and lower it below the reservoir tank to drain it.

1, but if you have A/C there will be 2.

One on the left between the bumper and the radiator to push air in, one on the right between the engine and radiator to suck air through.

i had a similar problem on a 97 ford taurus, not overheating but it would boil out the resivior, changed the theromstat, no help, took of the water pump and the impeller was rusted, almost gone, replaced it and it works good, also before changing it, the antifreeze was rust colored. hope this helps.

The fan is ran by the computer. It will continue to run for a short time after the engine is shut off and is normal. If it doesn't shut off, that is NOT normal.

I have a 2001 4.7l. Mine had no drain valve on it. I just took off the lower hose and let it drain that way.

If you take the grill off of the front of the vehicle you should be able to see the radiator. Look on the passenger side of the radiator, your wing nut type plug should be on the side of the radiator.

The Jeep Cherokee radiator drain plug is plastic and very fragile. You should remove the lower radiator hose to drain the cooling system.

there is a drain plug under the bottom of the radiator. just unloosening it und there you have it.

you have to take the entire assembly out the bottom of the car. Be careful when getting replacement parts as there are a number of part numbers available with deifferent harness connections

First off, make sure that the fuse for the electric fan is good. Then, hot wire the fan to the battery to make sure that the fan motor works. If the fan is good, and the fuse is good, probably the fan sensor is bad.

Drain the radiator by removing a petcoc on the bottom of the radiator. Then remove all the hoses and lines going to the radiator. unplug the fans, then unbolt the radiator from the top, most cars have 2 little bolts holding it in, then remove it. Then put the new radiator back in, bolt it up, plug the fans in, and put the hoses and lines back on, make sure you do not cross thread the lines if they screw in. Fill it up with antifreeze until it does not take any more. then start the car up, once the car gets hot enough the thermostat will open and it will take more antifreeze. fill it until it is full and put the cap back on the radiator, then fill the overfill bottle to the appropriate mark. when the car is running, make sure the temp. does not jump way up, if it does turn the car off imediatly, it means there's an air bubble in there and the thermostat is not opening and the car will overheat.

the bottom of the radiator, but it faces the engine...get it? :)

If it's leaking at the radiator, make sure you haven't accidentally bent the fitting. Sometimes a brass fitting can be accidentally bent and you'll never get it to seal until it's round and cleaned up. If it's leaking at the block or water pump, make sure it's clean and there are no large corrosion pits. If everything looks good at those locations, check for leaks elsewhere. The radiator could be leaking where the hose connects. The water pump could be leaking and it only LOOKS like it's leaking at the hose.

Common for a cracked coolant temperature sender. Although there are many other possiblilites. Don't wait, get it figured out ASAP.

figure out the capacity and then mix 50/50 anti freeze and water

For original equipment diagrams, check your local auto parts stores, or even your local library, for repair books for your specific vehicle. Those Published by companies such as Chilton's or Haynes are usually good choices for diagrams and pictures.

No.

It is located on the bottom or bottom side of the radiator. You will actually turn the stem to drain your radiator.

Yes you flush the entire cooling system.what probably happened is that the cooling sustem was filled with straight water and sat for an extended period of time. back flush system until clear water is coming out then use a chemical flush to strip out any other contaminants. refill with a 50/50 coolant /water mix. You'll probably need to take the radiator to a radiator shop and have it "rodded" and reconditioned. Rust sediment and mineralization can cause serious problems that will not be removed by flushing the system. Avoid that problem in the future by using a water pump lube/rust inhibitor every year that you do not change your anti-freeze.

the motor wll get very hot very quickly when you get stuck in traffic or stop at a red light The engine will overheat if it's running and the vehicle is not moving. It will probably be ok on the highway, but you'll have problems when it gets warmer and you don't get enough air across the radiator. as in all cars, if the radiator fan stops working your car will more than likely overheat.the radiator fan is there to cool the radiator when it gets hot, and believe me it does get hot. that's why you should never try to take the radiator cap off until your vechicle cools down because the hot steam will burn you if you do!!!!!!!!!!!

Could be an airlock. try bleeding the system until the heaters are hot. If it keeps doing it the i would suspect cyl head gasket. Hope this helps

No. The expansion tank will not let coolant drain into the radiator. Doing this will cause the whole system to be clogged up. WHO POSTED THIS MISSINFORMATION. OPEN A REPAIR MANUAL BEFORE YOU ANSWER QUESTIONS.

Sounds like you have a coolant leak. When cold, put a pressure tester (hand pump with fitting to the radiator neck) and see if you can see any coolant leaking. Once found, fix the leak.

If the smoke is coming from the electric fan itself, then it needs replacing. It could be the smoke is steam that the fan is drawing from the radiator, and you have a coolant leak at the radiator.