Saturn S-Series

The 2002 Saturn S-Series SC2 uses synthetic 5W-30 motor oil. One suggested brand is Motorcraft synthetic blend motor oil, and another suggested brand is Valvoline SynPower.

there are two

follow the spark plug wires down

they are mounted on or near the tranny

I believe the gap is 040 on the 1.9 liter engines

If the low side is normal but the high side is low, you may have a worn compressor.

You can't know the details without having a professional test the system for you; it should be tested by someone who knows the details of how temperature interacts with the internal pressures of the A/C system.

you must remove the front panel that surrounds the stereo

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c227/kx250ryderBezelRemoval.jpg

then remove the screws that hold it in place

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c227/kx250ryderRadioRemoval.jpg

If you want to put a new radio in then you will need to buy a mounting bracket for the stereo, I bought one on eBay for $7 and it works great. I got mine from this seller about 6 months, I was suspicious since it was so cheap but i got it anyway because he had %100 positive feedback and i wasn't disappointed. The bottom part is a little storage compartment you can put like you iPod or cellphone it there while plugged into your new radio.

http://cgi.eBay.com/Radio-Stereo-Dash-install-kit-SATURN-SC-SC1-SC2-00-02_W0QQitemZ310072601167QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Electronics_Installation

Replacement of the window motor on an SC2 (or SC1) is probably the most difficult and protracted of any car ever built. If you succeed on this model, you will be qualified to do the same job on any car ever built on this planet. It just takes guts and willpower. First you take off the inside door handle (and lock switch if you have electric locks). Removing the inside handle requires sliding the assembly forward 3/16 inch then removing the plastic retainers on the actuating rods with a flat screwdriver and lifting the rods upwards with needle-nose pliers. Then rear view mirror trim is taken off, then the interior trim panel comes off because this has to come off to drill off three rivers holding the window regulator (the up/down mechanism) to the door. Remove the mirror because it covers outer window seal, that has to come off in order to remove the outer (plastic) door panel. On the outer handle, press in two plastic mandrels and prize out two plastic rivets at each end of the door handle. Then prize the handle off the plastic attachment bar. The outer door panel is held on with torx bolts. If the window motor has failed in the down position, and the motor gearbox is still sound, you will not be able to raise the window to get at the motor. Removing the glass from the lower slider rail requires a very special tool comprising four pins to turn the two disc nuts that hold the glass to the slider. Without the tool, you have to drill out the threads of the disc nuts and replace the threaded portion with 10-32 � bolts or equivalent. The glass slides out and up easily and needs the forward edge tilted down to get it out of the door. (At this stage of the saga, check the motor connector pins for voltage � in case it is not the motor after all that has failed.) Grind off the mandrels of the four pop rivets holding the regulator to the inside of the door. Punch out the remains and drill out with a �� drill. Having someone on the other size to stop the rivets spinning will save a lot of time. Keep fingers out of the way of the mechanism if the window mechanism is down as the counterbalance spring is pre-loaded when the mechanism is down. With the motor and regulator on the floor or on a bench, drill out the three motor attach rivets with a �� or next size bigger drill bit. The motor I bought at Main Auto Parts for $60 came with three long bolts to attach the motor back on the regulator and four short bolts to attach the regulator to the door. It is easiest (least pre-load on the counterbalance spring) to install the motor on the regulator with the window lower slider in the up position. Note that the long, flat-head bolt needs to go adjacent to the regulator gear sector (using one of the other dome-head bolts will foul the gear teeth). Flat-head or countersunk bolts are best to secure the glass to the slider � with the bolt head outer most � otherwise the bolt tails will foul the door structure when the window is up. Check the window up and down several times before putting the panels back on the door.

the interior door panel is tricky to get off. first remove the two screws in the finger well and one screw in the control panel, behind the door release, and one more on the driver mirror panel. using a large flat blade screw driver, place it on the edge of the plastic panel containing the door lock and pull latch. gently hit the handle of the screw driver to push the pannel toward the front of the car, it should slide about 1/4 of an inch. next, with the same screw driver, begin by prying the door panel away from the door frame starting from the bottom and working your way up around the sides. the panel is held in by white ribbed plastic clips, there are two of them hidden just above the control pannel you just slid to the right. slowly work them out as to not rip the door panel. once they are all free, grab the upper left corner and the lower right corner with both hands. pull out toward you gently to keep the clips from resetting into the door body, twist the door panel in a clockwise rotation, the lower left side of the control panel should slide down into the door panel as you twist, sometimes it needs some help. once you start twisting the panel it should be apparent on how to bring the rest of the control panel through the opening. the installation is just the reverse.

You either have a leaking heater core, leak at the windshield, or a A/C condenser drain line stopped up. Taste of the water. If it taste sweet, it is coolant and your heater core needs replacing. If not then, check the drain line. Look under the car, passenger side, and find the line. Use a pencil or other blunt object to clear it out. If the line is clear, you have a windshield leak. Take it to an auto glass shop and have it fixed by a pro.

If the transmission is in neutral and the engine is racing would indicate that your throttle body cable is binding somewhere. Check the assembly, check by the gas pedal. I have checked with a dealer on the same problem. I have a 96 sc2 and it does the same thing. They told me it idles down due to the engine computer. They said if it is cold outside it will idle high like this. Once it started getting warm outside mine stopped doing this. Please let me know if you have found out anything. -insaneman2@hotmail.com Mine was doing the same thing. I changed the temp sensor and it worked. yours is probably cracked.

I've never heard of a timing chain that needed replacing unless there was a serious problem with the engine... I could be wrong. Timing chains do on occasion need replacement. But the difference in a chain and a belt, is that the chain will give you warning of it's immanent failure. The will become noisy, and the engine may become hard to time. Normally a chain will last 150,000-200,000 miles, or even more.

My boyfriend took off the outside door panel by removing screws along the inside of door so that he could replace the window.

All four speakers are 6 1/2.

NOOOOOOOOO

they are 6¾ NOT 6½ i just did my sound system all around and 6½ DO NOT FIT everyone online seemes to thing they are halfs, and so many people get agrivated when they dont quite fit, but they install them anyway because its a small difference that only makes a difference if you want the best quality sound

Just replaced mine this morning. It is covered up by a little hose at the top of the back part of the engine (right in the center). Just pull the hose off and the valve pulls right out!

Lift the vehicle on a car jack, remove the tire, remove the brake shoe/caliper, and remove the old brake pad. Put in a new brake pad, replace the brake shoe/caliper, replace the tire, lower the vehicle to the ground.

lease gas cap on 2000 sl1

Depending on the year, the EGR valve is easily removed by removing the electrical connector and the bolts.

Looking down at the engine from in front of the vehicle, the EGR valve is connected to the right side of the head, just above the transmission bell housing.

Replace intake manifold gasket. Refer to saturnfans.com for a how-to with pictures.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/us70444.htm

According to the website above. It will not suffer severe engine damage if the timing belt breaks. However you should still get the belt changed every 60,000 miles.

It is a non-interferrence engine. The valves generally will not be damaged by the cylinder if the timing belt breaks, however engine wear & high engine speeds can play a roll in this equation. There have been a few occasions of higher mileage vehicles experiencing valve damage. The change interval in the published in the manual for the 1999 Contour is 130,000 miles. Change the belt every 100,000 or 6 years & you should be fine. Be certain you get an entire timing belt kit installed as the idler & tensioner pullies are wear items as well. This is also generally a good time to replace the water pump as the labor is only another 15 minutes or so plus the pump cost.

The purpose of an oxygen sensor is to sense the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas. If oxygen is present, an insufficient fuel mix has been added to the cylinder to make it fire. The oxygen sensors job is to send a signal to the computer that regulates the intake mixture to richen the mixture until enough fuel has been added to combust all of the oxygen in the mixture, ensuring the proper mixture. A lean fuel mixture will take longer to burn than a rich mixture due to the lack of fuel in relation to oxygen. The engine will still opperate though poorly, and when the piston moves up in the cylinder, it will be pushing burning gasses through the exhaust port. This is normally what causes the engine to run hot on a lean mixture. A failed oxygen sensor could easily cause an engine to run rich or lean. Some vehicles may have programs to automatically richen an engine's fuel/air mixture to protect the engine from premature mechanical failure in the event of a failed oxygen sensor. A rich mixture will not likely damage an engine, just your pocketbook.

Not to say that this is exactly your problem. Recently, I filled my Saturn up and know that I got very bad gas. So bad it took 2 bottles of dry gas, 2 bottles of STP superconcentrated fuel injector cleaner and a lot of driving to remedy. Consider that it might be your fuel and do the same. Is it doing it mainly when it is damp or wet out? or all the time. Damp or wet could signify a need for plugs, wires, check coils, etc. Also check the air filter. I would lean towards either bad gas or dirty injectors and the first paragraph covers the basic remedy.

Usually the owner's manual.

2000 Saturn SL2, Windshield Wiper Motor Assembly Removal Replacement, 3-4hr job

1) First be sure the wipers are in the park position. Then flip up plastic covers over wiper arm nuts, remove nuts, flip wipers up vertical and remove wiper arms.

2) remove cowling grille under wipers that spans across bottom of windshield by removing 4 star torque bolts and about 5 plastic retainers. Some are accessed with hood down, some with hood up. To remove plastic retainers, first pop up round center post with a thin screwdriver to unlock retainer leaving the outer circular part in place, then pull out plastic retainer. Close hood and detach the windshield washer hose from the cowling, then lift cowling up over the antenna. Once cowling is removed you can see wiper motor assembly.

3) Remove top dashboard, by first removing 2 star torque bolts just above the glovebox, then just lift up firmly, starting above the glove box, to release multiple retainers, if you look under the dashboard you'll see the retainers, then just pull the whole dashboard forward, you'll see front clips that the front edge slides into, these are held by Velcro and come may come off.

4) Remove the large defrost duct by removing the 2 bolts on either side close to the windshield. Then get outside the car and look through the windshield to spot 2 plastic retaining clips on either side of the defrost duct - they are low and towards the back of the duct. Once you spot them, get back in and reach down to feel them and release them. Now slide the duct to towards the passenger side about 5 inches, that's all it will move, to access the 2 wiper motor retaining nuts that are just under the left side of the defrost duct near the windshield. They are covered with a thin sheet of sound insulation, just pull it down to see them and remove these 2 nuts.

5) Outside the car, remove the 2 bolts on either side of the wiper arm assembly. These are the main bolts that secure the assembly to the chassis.

6) Rotate the linkage arm on the enter shaft of the motor to re-position the connecting arms until you are able to remove the assembly.

7) Installation is the opposite.

NOTE: I replaced a 2000 SL2 factory assembly with a used 2001 SL coupe assembly that is sold as a compatible replacement but looked different - the motor and electrical connections were positioned differently, but the whole assembly fit and worked.

NOTE: When I turned the wipers on, I noticed a large white plastic connector on the dash near the windshield driver side inside the car moving - the wiper arm mechanism was hitting it. I removed the plastic clip as it was only holding some sound insulation.

NOTES: My problem was my wipers would not turn off, I had to turn off the car to get them to stop. This was intermittent at first but then it happened continuously. It may have been caused by turning the wipers on when they were frozen to the windshield. Don't do that if you have a Saturn!

I recently performed this task, and learned a lot! 1. Remove wiper arms, air cowl, antenna, etc. to expose wiper motor on engine side of firewall. 2. Remove top of dashboard. 3. Move defrost louver to one side, and access nuts against firewall on driver side, which hold wiper motor bracket to fire wall. 4. Remove wiper assembly...motor and transmission. 5. Move trasmission to new motor. 6. Re-install.

First of all, you would need to buy a replacement from an Infiniti dealer. I searched literally every auto parts store and none had the one for the I-30. It's pretty much a specialty item. Use a screwdriver to gently pry the complete cigarette lighter out of the dash. Unplug the wires from the old unit and connect them to the new unit. Push back into console. It's actually a very simple process.

Cable run from back side of shifter to the tranny. The center console will have to be taken out, its easy to remove. Cable snaps into the bottom of the shifter mechanism. Hooks to the tranny with a shim type clamp. Located on drivers side below the break master cylinder. You will need to remove the intake hose from the throttle body to the air box. To include the airbox and filter. The cable has grommets that keep it secure and keep water and air out of the cars interior. You can email me at stewblank6669 at yahoo, I can give you my number if you need to hear this explained. I work on these things. Butch

The oil viscosity is more dependent on the condition of the engine than on the year or model.

A new engine, in perfect condition with absolutely NO wear on the rod/main bearings calls for 5W15 oil.

As the engine wears a little and the space between the bearing and the crankshaft opens up, you should use an oil that maintains the oil pressure.

At first, switch to a 10W30, and if that doesn't keep the oil pressure up, change to a 15W40.

But once an engine has been down the road a good distance, it's time to change to a higher viscosity.

Note too, an engine that has been properly maintained and has not been abused will also not wear as fast. I've seen a Saturn with 160K miles that still used 5W15 oil, and I've seen vehicles with 50K miles that have had to use 15W40. There are too many variables to make a blanket statement about what oil viscosity you should use in your engine.

Simple rule: If the oil pressure drops significantly when the engine is hot and at an idle, change to a higher viscosity. A little drop is okay though, just so long as it doesn't drop more than half way down the gauge.