Serpentine Belts

Check to see that all belts are tightened to factory specs. Too tight or too loose and they will break. Check the alignment of the pulleys. One out of alignment will cause this. Check the tensioner idler pulley if equipped. Installing incorrect type belts will also cause this.

Refer to the link below for the diagram. If you have a serpentine belt it replaces the V-belt in (3) of the diagram. If you have the upper smog pump fitted it is powered from the power steering pulley.

To replace the serpentine belt on a V6 3800 series non-supercharged motor, you must jack up the motor and remove a motor mount. Before going any further make sure that the factory belt diagram sticker is still somewhere under the hood; if not, make a detailed diagram of the path of the belt. You must then use a breaker bar with a socket (I believe 13/64") and pull it toward the front of the car to release the belt tensioner. Put the new belt on, tighten it, put the mount back on, and lower the jack. Personally I believe that this one is a tough job for the average person with limited tools, and may be better to bring it to a mechanic. **Driving without a belt can cause the motor to overheat, will cut power steering, and will not recharge the battery, so you should probably get a tow**

Look on your timing chain cover there should be a diagram attached.

Bent, Broken, or misaligned pulley

This is the escort forum not the E 150 forum.

how to take off old serpentine belt and insall new belt

how to take off old serpentine belt and install new belt need help

first u need to loosen the engine mount located in the passenger side close the coolant refil container . before u do that make sure that the engine supported by the jack and awood block.

Needs to be posted in the auto section.

if you have to ask how to replace the belt you should not open the hood take it to a shop

Release the tension with tension pulley. Follow belt pattern printed on a sticker under the hood

you need a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar to fit the square hole in the spring loaded tensioner and release the tension on the belt so you can remove the old belt from the closest pully you can reach at the same time. Make sure you have a diagram of how it goes back on before you take it off. The tensioner is a pully affair located in the belt path and you find it by looking for the 1/2 inch square drive "hole". When you get the new belt on all the pullys except the last one you have to release the tension again with the 1/2 inch breaker bar while you slip the belt over the final pully. It helps to have a 2 foot water pipe on the breaker bar to make it easier to release the tension while you work the belt. A helper would be useful also.

You'll need to examine the alignment of all of the pulleys to see which one is misaligned, then figure out why. If your serpentine belt keeps coming off, check for. 1. Belt getting worn on the edges. Replace belt. 2. Pulleys coming loose. Tighten pulleys and re-install belt. 3. An accessory may have been replaced incorrectly, so that the belt does not track correctly.

The 2001 Honda Civic is not equipped with a serpentine belt, but has 2 v-belts. These are tensioned through use of a tensioner.

This is actually a fairly straight-forward and easy job. I completed it in my garage in about 15 minutes.

0. Make sure engine is COOL. otherwise, you WILL burn yourself.

1. Take a picture or diagram the path of your existing serpentine belt. This is critical to getting the new belt on. While it will only "fit" 1 way, it is much easier knowing how to "snake" the belt around, in-between and under the water pump, alternator, a/c compressor, tensioner, etc...

2. the tensioner is the key. you will need the biggest ratchet (3/4") that you have and it is even easier with a "breaker" bar (long bar that increases your torque, with socket head on end).

3. The belt tensioner is (using a clock face) about 2:00 - 3:00 oclock from the main crankshaft pully (if you were standing in front of the car, looking through the radiator, at the front of the engine). It has a 15mm or 17mm nut on it's center. If you put a socket to it, the tensioner will move by applying pressure in the counter-clockwise direction. This is compress the spring insid the tensioner, it will move in and provide slack for the belt.

4. SO, snake the new belt into position except for going around the tensioner.

5. (This is a little tricky) With the belt "almost" in place, place the socket inside the belt and onto the tensioner nut/bolt, so that when you compress the tensioner, the belt will be able to slip onto the tensioner pully. Apply the counter-clockwise pressure to the tensioner, creating enough roon to slip the belt into place and in the correct grooves. Release the tensioner and you are done!

I was able to replace my belt without removing ANYTHING from the front of the engine. If you must have the room you can remove the electric fan shroud by unbolting the two top bolts behind the radiator and disconnecting the two electrical feeds (on to each fan motor). The shrould will pivot back and lift out. It is easy, but not necessary to remove this item.

Good luck!

There will be a tensioner pulley, that is a pulley that is connected to an arm that is spring loaded in order to produce tension on your belt. By releasing tension on this pulley, you can remove the belt. The pulley will have a way to do this using hand tools. Most have either a bolt head you can grip with a pry bar and the appropriate size socket, some have a square hole where the socket - drive pry bar will fit directly, but the age old plain pry bar can be used by itself to release the tension. This should be done with two people if possible, one to release the tension while the other removes the belt...

I just installed a belt on a 1998 ZX2 and used the tension release tool from underneath the car (safely jacked up and blocked) You should remove the right front wheel and plastic splash shield from wheel well (10mm socket). Use the tensioner release tool from underneath and rotate it towards the rear of the engine until you meet the lower heater hose. At this point, have another person use a tire iron / long screw driver, etc. to jam the tensioner pulley in place in order to get another "bite" on the tensioner pulley center bolt (use 13MM socket on the tool) You should have the entire belt pre-routed except for the AC pulley. This is the easiest one to install the belt on once tension has been released. Check for any looseness on the other idler pulleys as well as component pulleys.

use a ratchet on the tensioner to draw it back it will be tough note you must put on belt at the same time.yes it will take muscle but can be done in less then ten mins.most tensiners square hole you should be able to use 1/2" drive ratchet all by it self if no fit use other but Lincoln at least all my v8's use this size.if no tensiner with you will be able to see whether or not is stationary pulley then the alternator will slide in a bracket.

how to replace drive belt on a 2005 ford escape XLT 3.0 V-6

The serpentine belt on a Saab 9-5 4 cylinder is replaced by loosening the idler pulley and slipping the belt off. It can then be removed from the remaining engine accessories and a new belt put in place.

The serpentine belt tensioner is not adjustable. If a new or 'young' belt is loose, likely the tensioner is going to have to be replaced.

2 other causes of squealing are a worn belt, or if the surface of the belt has become glazed are a couple of causes of squealing.

NOTE: The belt tensioner has a built-in wear indicator - it'll be hard to see, but there really are markings on the side to indicate when the spring is weakening and not holding the belt tight to the pullies.

See "Related Questions" below for more

It is important to have a diagram on hand when making changes to the belts of a vehicle. A diagram for the belts of this vehicle can be found in its maintenance manual or at a shop that specifies in freightliner auto parts.

First, draw a routing diagram of the belt system to refer back to when putting the new belt on.

Drive the vehicle up on some ramps or raise the front end of the vehicle, take off the bottom plastic cover to access the belt / pulleys. Two bolts in this case on the cover, easy to get to them.

Next, from top of the vehicle, if you look closely with a light, the tensioner has a 1/2 square socket fitting on top of it for a 1/2 extension to fit in, use that to take the tension off the belt. You don't need to put a wrench on the pulley bolt, it is to hard to get to. I had to use a 3/8 rachet with a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and a short 1/2 extention to get to it. The 1/2 rachet will not fit in, to small of an area, the 3/8 rachet just fit with the adapters.

I then used a long breaker tube to fit on the handle of the 3/8 rachet to use as leverage to pull the tensioner loose and then placed a piece of wood between it and any obsticle I could find to keep the rachet handle tension on the tensioner and proceed to go underneath and start taking the belt off.

If you need a diagram of the belt routing I can email it to anyone that needs it, in case you did not draw a diagram before you started the project.

The last obsticle is to take the piece of wood out, that is keeping the tensioner open and let the tension off the tensioner and then be able to get the socket extension off the tensioner. Two people make it easier but with a little work you can accomplish it.

Randy

Website: cammhsm.com

Email: rharper@cammhsm.com

Find the belt tensioner at the top of the belt run; it has a pulley attached to it. Insert a wrench on it and put tension against the spring loaded tensioner. Simply remove the belt and install the new one. Review the belt path before you begin the removal.

Nothing is impossible but they rarely split down the middle. They usually fray along the edges first. It depends on how long you have had the mechanic and if you have trusted him before. Anytime you have something replaced you have the right to ask for the old part. It belongs to you. This causes them to give you the part so you can look at it for yourself.

I have a 96 astro van and just replaced the serpentine belt after the idler pulley barring froze. never doing this before i read some on-line suggestions then went to work...it is suggested a two person job but i did it myself...it was also explained to me that at bottom left, the idler tension pulley can be adjusted to make easier the task...but i found it hard to get to the tension bolt on the lever...so i skipped it and did the following:

On the front engine compartment right above the radiator facing you as you open the hood is a sticker just to the left, indicating the belt routing. be sure to check it a couple times before you begin...i started from left to right..as you face the engine...wrapping the belt around the AC/power-steering side first..then under the idler pulley and over the alternator saving the the clutch fan pulley and main bearing pulley for last....(the belt should be groove to groove on all accessories except the idler pulley(not the idler tension pulley) and the clutch fan pulley. After you've routed the belt around all but the idle tensioner and main bearing pulley(big bottom wheel)...get under the vehicle and loop it over the idler tension wheel(little plastic wheel with a spring loaded arm)...with your right arm pull on the tensioner and from left to right begin to loop the belt under the main bearing wheel(big one ..right in front of your face at this point)push the tensioner and begin to push the big wheel to the right(HARD!) as the wheel slowly turns the belt will..slowly pull itself onto the big wheel using it as leverage it should pull the belt on. Make sure all loops look correct on the accessory pulleys and turn the engine over just for a second to make sure all is in line...see that there is no misconnected or damage...after a quick visual check...start the car again and let it run for a few minutes...as you check all the functions....if it looks,feels and sounds right you should be good to go...make sure light cluster does not indicate problems.

I read alot before i tried this...some suggestions for example said to use "a crow bar" or "breaker bar" to relieve tension while trying to slip the belt on the idler tension wheel....not a good idea, ...you cannot get a bar in the right place for leverage and slip the belt over it at the same time...*especially by your self*...also this will cause damage to the wheel itself if not careful...remember the tension wheel is plastic.

One suggestion i didn't try but sounds right is to lessen the tension on the spring using an apparent bolt located on the front on the spring arm..but again i had trouble reaching it let alone getting a good turn on it...

Hope my suggestion works..prepare to be slightly frustrated...but hang in there it can be done...i just did it.

good luck!!!