Serpentine Belts

It's usually on the inside of the hood when you open it, just look up.

The relay center should be in hte engine compartment. Once you open the hood and are facing the front of the car look to the back left by the hood hinge. You should see a black box that has a diagram on it. Take the cover off and use the diagram on the cover to pinpoint which relay is the horn. Hope that helps.

Yes, there's a fuse + relay box in the engine bay, but that's not where the horn relay is.

Horn relay is on the under-dash fuse panel. Left (driver's side, in the USA) side of car. Horn relay is way up at upper edge of the panel, mounted on a tab so it's sort of off the edge of the panel. Relay has a gray housing with a 4-wire connector going to it. Squeeze tab on the connector lets you pull it off the relay. Squeeze tab at base of relay lets you pull it off the panel base.

Reference:

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2153943

The tensioning pulley is the one just above the ac pulley 13mm wrench, pull it backwards.

more help at this site

http://www.rldassociates.com/zx2/howto/belt.htm

hope it helps, michael

tips: lace all lupes through pullies except last one, I went underneath vehicle to have space to use common wrench to manipulate tensioner. That way it only takes one person to put belt on. My car had no belt diagram on vehicle and repair books for my year don't show diagram. Used this free website to obtain belt diagram...http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528008d82b I had to search a while to get free diagram... . For the mechanics answering these questions, do the research to help your fellow man...

Quite simple, really. 1) Remove battery ground cable. 2) Lightly jack up front of engine to remove weight from mount. 3) Remove front engine mount and serpentine belt. 4) Remove old tensioner bolts. There are 3 or 4, possibly 13mm. Look at new tensioner to note locations. 5) Install new part and reassemble car. Good luck.

loosen the tent ion on the pulley and the belt should slide off easily

Theres a video demo on you tube detailing how.

It's easier with a helper. First make sure you have a routing diagram before you remove it (usually under hood). Next find topmost smooth pulley (not ribbed)-that's an idler. Find a socket that fits the bolt in the middle and a long handled wrench. Move it right against spring tension using that bolt to create slack in belt. (Note-if it moves left, same concept, use pry bar instead) while you do that someone can remove belt. Reverse to install.

Technology was never made at any specific point. For example , The discovery of fire can be considered a technology advancement just as well as the invention of the I-Pod can be considered a advancement in the ever changing landscape of the technology outpour. So to answer your question technology was never made it will always be changing long after you and I have passed away.

As your belts are made of rubber, any kind of oil on it WILL deteriorate the rubber and eventually cause the belt to break. I do NOT recommend putting brake fluid on the pully. I would replace the belt as in the long run it usually ends up being cheaper than trying to fix the problem yourself. If the pulleys still squeal, then I would make a stop by a mechanic and have him check on the squealing pulley as there may be a more serious problem than you think. A friend of mine just ignored the squealing and kept driving the car, and a couple of weeks later the water pump shaft snapped and blew the water pump literally to pieces and sent rad fluid rushing out all over the road.... To make a long story short, he could have avoided the $450.00 repair bill if he had it checked out by a mechanic.

DO NOT POUR ANY OIL ON A BELT go to any auto store and buy a stick of belt dressing if that doesn't fix it, buy a new belt and for sure, do not take sand paper to it

I also agree don't even think about putting Brake fluid on it. I would check the tension on all the belts first before going out and buying a new belt. Over time the belts can loosen. They can easily be tightened . go to any parts store and buy a car manual. They have all the specs and give every detail on how to tighten and how much tension each belt should have. Also if you do use belt dressing it might stop the squealing for a little while , but once it dries up the squeal will return if in fact it is loose.

Look at the front of the bracket underneath of you alternator, you will see a bolt that connects to the back of the pulley below the alternator itself. That will dial in/out your alternator and then you can tighten down the nut that holds the pulley in place. WHile it is true the tensioner is located on the top of the alternator with a dial type ratchet system, I have not had an 89-90 Jetta where this works. Usually you have to tension it with a bar of some sort prying against another pce of the engine.

turn belt tensioner clockwise to loosen there is a special tool you can get as loaner tool

Standing on the passanger side of car looking under hood, you will see the belt. Looking straight down the middle in front of you, you will see a pully with a nut inthe center. Put a box end wrench on it a push down. Tension will release on the belt. Take off and put on new belt. Once new belt is routed around pulleys push back down on wrench a pull belt over top pully.

It's usually on a sticker under the hood but if not you can ask an auto parts dealer, the van dealer or buy a motor manual with one in it.

nthow to change the belts
on the dodge neon

If the outside casing is slightly blackened, by rust or wear, you should avoid using it. However, many people have suffered severe consequences because of lack of recognition of inner damage, particulary in commercial models.

A industrial raw edge cogged belt is a high-performance belt used in applications where slippage or failure must be avoided. Made of rubber with cogs or nubs running all along the inside of it, the industrial raw edge cogged belt is designed to interlock with grooves or notches on the drive pulley. This interlocking design allows the industrial raw edge cogged belt to operate without slippage even at high engine speeds. Much like a chain and a sprocket, the cog belt can turn engine accessories without the fear of failure or slippage traditional rubber V-belts - or fan belts as they are most commonly called - are known for.

I was quoted $130 parts and labor by a VW Dealership Service Dept.

just had to replace mine and had to undo the motor mount. be sure to jack motor with a wood block on jack unde the oil pan. just enough pressure on jack to hold up motor. take out the motor mount bolts and drop motor just enough to get belt between the mount and the support where the bolts go through.

If you need a diagram to figure out the routing then you should not mess with it! Hint: It's serpintine! That means that first it runs over a toothed pulley and then it runs over a smooth pulley. The biggest pulley is the crankshaft and is toothed because it drives the belt.[[User:67.86.249.138|67.86.249.138]] 02:33, 1 Mar 2009 (UTC)Get it?

Look to see first if there is a spring loaded belt tensioner, if not you will have to loosen the 2 bolds that hold the pully in, if it is spring loaded, find a socket or crescent that will fit it

Trouble code P1391 means: Intermittent loss of CMP or CKP

You should have a belt routing guide on the radiator support of the vehicle when you open the hood, somewhere around the hood latch. You will notice a spring tensioner pulley under the alternator, you can use a socket or a wrench to remove the belt, turn the tensioner clockwise to take the tension off the belt to remove the belt. You do not need to remove anything other than the belt. Can be removed with fan shroud in place. Notice the belt routing guide while reinstalling. To install route the belt as in belt routing diagram, the tensioner will be the last pulley to put the belt over.

Its a little easier to put the belt on the alternator last. Usually the wrench or socket gets in the way of trying to put the belt on the tensioner last.

If you have a 1.9 liter engine: If you look down at the belt area, you will see a pully toward the front of the car that looks like it's attached to an arm. That is the tensioner pully. The tensioner is spring loaded. If you look at the arm of the tensioner there should be a square hole in it to insert a socket wrench or a breaker bar/pull handle to use as a lever to remove the tension from the belt. If there is no hle, then use a wrench(possibly 15mm) on the bolt head of the pully itself as your lever. As you hold the tensioner out of the way, unloop the old belt. Pay attention to the routing, so you can reinstall the new one correctly. Then, you route the new one in and again use your lever to move the tensioner so you can get the belt over the last pully. I usually put it over the alternator last. Use a light to make sure the belt is fully on all 5 grooves of every single pulley before you start the car.

A 1/2 inch ratchet should do the trick.

You need to losten the screws on the alternator to losen the belt, then you can take it off, and replace it.