Serpentine Belts

There should be a sticker on the fan shroud or on the bottom side of the hood. If your sticker is missing, that is the same truck I drive. I could post the routing sticker somehow.

First put a floor jack under the engine and raise it just high enough to support the engine, do not raise the car.

Secondly, remove the moter mount on the left side of the car.

Using a serpentine tool or a small drive breaker bar (not sure on the drive size, I used a serpentine tool that costed around $9 at a discount tool store) move the tension pulley to release tension on the belt.

Slide the belt off and out, you may have to wrestle with it a bit to get it thru the small opening where you removed the engine mount.

Reverse the steps to install the new belt.

If the smell is like burning or heated rubber, then it could mean the belt is rubbing against one of the pulleys that it's supposed to be powering. That probably means that particular item isn't getting powered. For example, if your alternator seizes up, your battery won't charge, and the fact that it's stuck could cause the belt to heat up near it, causing the bad smell. If that's the case, then the belt may be wearing slick, in which case it'll need to be replaced as well.

a 19mm socket,breaker bar to tensioner and release tension by applying force towards the front of the vehicle. remove the belt from the alternator pulley. this will also be the last pulley for easier installation. it will save you a headache if you make yourself a diagram.

Seems to be pretty logical, doesn't it?

Possible misalignment of items on the belt path, causing wear to the sides of the belt, which would cause it to break. If the water pump was installed using excessive tourqe on one side, this could cause the pump to drag, and cause wear to the belt and overheating.

There is a pulley called the Tensioner, you must fit a socket or special wrench to release the tension on the belt, on mine I used a 15mm socket and a pair of vise grips as I did not have a tool that would fit the limited clearance. Pull towards the front of the car just enough to slide the new and much stiffer belt on. Make sure to note the way you take the old belt off and follow the sticker on the inside of the hood (Passenger side).

It took me a while but I got it done.

PS; If you do not have the time, you could have it done at any reputable Repair Shop.

Make sure you purchase your own belt as some places charge double the price of the belt. Cost would be about $15 plus the belt another $20.

You have to remove the bottom bolt and spacer for the motor mount. Easiest way is to take the right front tire off, remove the inner fender well access flap. The bolt has a nut on the out side that has to be removed. Then the stud that goes through the mount into the engine has to be removed. Slip the belt over the pulleys and reverse the procedure. Thirty minute job.

2004 Mazda B3000 Serpentine belt change.

See related pictures

Tools needed: 15 mm box end wrench

Time: 1 hour

Last belt change 101,196 km

Part: Dayco Polycog 5060885 (always varify and compare old belt before installing new one)

Step 1

Make sure you have the correct belt. Double check the part number etc.

Step 2

Make sure you have the correct routing of the belt. This can be found a lot of the times on the fan cowling of the vehicle. Do not trust the diagrams that come with the new belt. If you have to draw a simple diagram then do so. Your diagram should be pictured facing the engine.

Step 3

Identify the belt tensioning pulley. This will be the one pulley with a small arm attached to it that will be making contact with the backside or smooth side of the serpentine belt. Do not confuse this with the fixed/non moveable idler pulley.

Step 4

Identify the correct direction you must push or pull to collapse the belt tensioning pulley. This can be done by placing a wrench on the nut in the center of this pulley. Make sure you use the correct size. I strongly recommend a box end wrench. With my 2004 Mazda B3000, 3liter, V6, place a box end of a 15mm combination wrench on the pulley nut with the wrench about horizontal. Push down with one hand as the pulley will swing in and remove the belt off the top large compressor pulley.

Step 5

At this point you will take the belt off all pulleys and the belt should be in one large loop on the outside of all pulleys.

Step 6

Place one part of the belt over a fan blade while rotating the fan with you hand. You should see that you are taking the belt through the gap between the radiator and the front of the fan. Once you have the old belt out be sure to check the length with the new one by placing them side by side. They should be very close in length.

Step 7

Start with Step 6 in the reverse order to get the new belt on. At this point I left the belt beside and off the compressor pulley and adjacent power steering pulleys. This will allow enough slack to complete the rest of the belt routing. At this point I found that it was easier to complete the center portion from underneath the front end of the vehicle.

Step 8

Repeat steps 4 to get the last portion of the belt on the compressor pulley. Check to see that the belt is on all pulleys with the correct routing as mentioned in step 2.

Step 9

Turn over engine but do not start it. This should allow the belt to automatically seat and align with various pulleys. At this point check for belt seating and position. If everything is good then start engine. Let the engine idle. Your belt should appear to be moving smoothly

Step 10

If your old belt is not badly worn I would keep it in case of emergency and a backup on long road trips.

Anytime it is loose, cracked or glazed, or at the service interval specified in your owner's service guide.

If anti freeze or coolant gets on an accessory belt it could cause the belt to be noisy, so avoid this whenever possible. If coolant gets on the belt, rinse it off with water as soon as possible preferably before running the vehicle. Avoid spraying water into and on the alternator. After rinsing, run the vehicle and allow the water to dry off, it may squeal momemtarily. The belt should be fine, however sometimes the belt will be noisy still. I do not recommend belt dressing because many times too much of this is applied, the results normally don't last and a tacky residue is left on the pulleys, which has to be cleaned off prior to installing a replacement belt. As a last resort before replacing the belt to eleminate noise try a small amount of "Sil-Glyde" gel, not the spray. Apply it only while the vehicle is not running, put it on the grooved side of the belt and run the vehicle. If the squeak returns the belt may need replacement.

On some cars there is a sticker in the engine compartment with a belt diagram.

Many cars can have the ac compressor bypassed. Buying a belt for the same model vehicle without ac should be the correct length for a replacement.

You don't have an alternator belt, it is called a serpentine belt. It is very easy to change on the Z-tec engine, you just loosen up the tensioner pully bolt (turn it with a wrench) and the belt will come right off. look on the belt diagram sticker on the engine if you don't know where the tensioner pully is.

They don't have a belt diagram sticker on this vehicle so take care to remember how belt is put on or track down diagram on line, also much easier to install if raised in the air since tensioner is on bottom of vehicle

Steps to Replace 2003 ZX2 Serpetine Belt:

Make sure you need to replace the belt. My factory manual says cracks in the Vs is okay. Only missing chunks indicate the belt should be replaced.

Before removing the old belt, make sure you have a diagram. It would take a long time to figure it out from scratch. (Best I can tell, there's a difference between early and late ZX2s. Maybe Escort too.)

Remove the left wheel and remove the splash shield.

Use a 13mm wrench on the bolt at the center of the tensioner pulley and turn the tensioner clockwise to take tension off the belt and remove the old belt.

String the new belt over all pulleys except for the water pump. (A straightened coat hanger wire with a hook bent on the end is a good tool to get the belt positioned.)

The final belt routing requires that the wrench that is turning the tensioner clockwise be held in the wheel well as the belt is positioned over the water pump from under the hood. An extra person would be best, but I used a vise-grip to block the wrench while I went under the hood.

Not a bad task. Most of my time was spent deciding that I had to remove the wheel.

NO

This site will help you understand what years of buick lesabre are compatible.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buick_LeSabre

Just copy and paste it into your browser, it covers the lesabre from it's birth to it's end in 2005.

I've done this before, and it is difficult. You have to remove 1 of the bottom motor mount bolts and remove the bolt and spacer. The belt actually goes through the mount. How Dumb is that. Good luck.

Near one of the top pulleys is a spring loaded tensioner; find it and insert a ratchet on it and pry it back to release tension. Pay attention to how the belt runs so you can remember how it goes around the pulleys.

If you are talking about the secondary belt you will notice a pulley on the right side (driver's side) of the engine slightly below the level of the radiator shroud. That pulley has a nut on the face of it (14 mmi f I recall) and another behind it (same size it's a tensioner) loosen the front one and then use the back one (with a socket) to move the pulley down (loosening the belt). Then you can replace the belt. Use the tensioner to tighten the belt to the correct tension and then tighten the front nut thus locking the pulley in place. It should take you longer to snake the old belt out and the new belt in than adjust it.

Place a 3/8 drive racthet in the square itting on the tensioner assembly - push to the left (towards passenger compartment). The serpentine belt is now loose and can be removed. To remove the tensioner - loosen the retaining bolt located in the center of the tensioner mount assembly - use a 15 mm socket turn CCW - until it comes out .. When re-installing take notice of the PIN and the SLOT on the mount against the Engine - the pin fits into the slot.. I found that my rachet head would not fit into the narrow space. I used the 3/8" breaker bar that came with socket set that I rarely use. I also used a piece of 3/4" copper pipe (or whatever fits over the handle) to leverage the tensioner easier and allow my free hand to work the belt off the alternator.

Under the hood, up towards the windshield, on the passenger side, above the front wheel. There is a diagram there. Try a google search of auto parts or Pontiac Grand Prix belts

There is a spring loaded pulley that keeps tension on the belt, it should be located near the top left of the engine depending upon which engine you have. The front of this pulley has a torx bit bolt that you'll have to insert a torx bit/star bit socket into and use a breaker bar to back off the tension on the pulley, then you'll be able to remvove the belt. There should be a diagram of the location of this pulley along with the route of the belt on your framework to the left of the hood latch assembly. Hope this helps. My '95 e250 300 6 cylinder has a 3/8 hole in top of pulley assembly. A 3/8 ratchet fits right in and crank to right to remove tension.

If Its Not On The Hood, Or Near The Radiator. Stop By A Dealer The Parts Dept. Should Be Able To Run You A Copy Off.

There is a spring loaded tensioner near the top of the belt. Insert a wrench (whatever fits the job) and pull/push against it. Remove the belt.

On some vehicles, yes. Others, no.

Yes