Shocks and Struts

Struts run about $75 each at retail. Shops generally charge between $50-75 each for labor. Plus, you should have the van aligned after.

Go to this link to learn all about shocks and struts.

http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com/2007/05/shocks-and-struts-what-they-do-when-to.html

Rick

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

Crawl under the car and inspect the suspension. You may have a loose or broken shock.

"Its not possible, the car must be scrapped."

This just isn't true, I recently had the wishbones changed on my Ford Fiesta, it only cost about 40 quid or there abouts.

Traumatic shock is a condition that occurs when a person has been severely injured. This usually happens when there is severe blood loss or a long lack of oxygen to the brain.

There is a small " shock absorber " that is angled to stabilize the differential

So , I guess the answer would be ( yes )

It depends on the suspension type, it could be trailing arm bushing, strut bushing, shock bushing... Jack it up, get the tire off the ground, then use a long bar or 2X4 to move the tire up and down while you or a friend watch to see if there are any loose parts. Don't get under a vehicle that is up on jacks or even jack stands if you're playing around with the 2x4.

Yes

c/v axle is bad if its front wheel drive

Please ask this question again in spanish.

i paid about 280 dollars just for both sides of struts and shocks. struts alone were about 160.

You need a lighting coil (not happening on the stock motor), or a generator (like bicycles have), or you can put a battery from a motor cycle on it and run it like that, and just charge it each time.

not hard for the rears you will need to block the front wheels and jack up the rear end support it with jack stands cause ther will be a lot of shaking and yanking should be two bolts holding each shock in i would spary them with PB blaster or wd40 and let them soak for a minute then unbolt and remove the fronts are a little more difficult there is 3 bolts 2 on the bottom and a nut on top u may need a pair of vise grips for the front on the top of the shock there is a part of the shaft that is rectangular put the vise grips there so when you turn the nut on the top side of the shock you can keep the shaft from turning too jack each side of the front end up on the lower controll arm then remove old shocks and replace with new ones make sure you put on all the bushing and washers that come with the shocks or the shocks could fall off while on the road

The last set of these that I fitted,were vauxhall supplied,and required just fitting.They were oil filled and ready to go. Don't think I remember any that could be filled with oil,just regard them like a big shock absorber.

On the Roadmaster Estate Wagon 94-96 it is located in the driver's side front fender beneath the air cleaner and the PCM competer. It is most easily accessed from uderneath by removing the front air deflector and plastic inner fender-well cover. The cover is held on by several small screws and one push clip. Once the covers are removed the pump will be visible. It is attached by a mounting bracket to the car's frame and has two wiring harnesses and a small air line running from it.

youre automatic air ride suspension went out it happens to alot of navigators/expeditions that came from the factory with rear air ride shocks

As of 2014, there are a few places where one can get rear shocks for a 1994 Chrysler New Yorker with air ride. This can be purchased at Auto Zone and O'Reilly's.

I, too, am trying to change the struts on my 1993 Lasaber. So far I have removed the backseats to get to the top of the strut, but the access hole on top of the strut is too small...it needs to accommodate a 1" socket. Anyone who can take this to the next level would be greatly appreciated.

Was just quoted about $1700 by the dealer.

How about trying to put a sway bar or stabilizer bar. This part of the suspension usually aids in increasing the suspension's roll stiffness and the resistance of the car to roll in turns.

Remove the caliper, 2 bolts, then the bracket bolts, 2 bolts. Thread an 8.8M screw into the rotor and keep screwing it in until the rotor pops off. If you don't have such a screw handy, you can bang on the rotor with a hammer (although this process is much more aggressive in nature and it is possible to damage a wheel bearing while banging away at the rotor).

I've posted some videos to help illustrate the process:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOqwwkoG0Y8 (part 1)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0QBj0RJ7F4 (part 2

you can but it will ride a little bit more rough

Because you pee on an electric fence.

yes

the_front_end_of_the_vechicle_will_ethier_allow_the_front_to_droop_and_it_will_also_end_up_being_stiffer in_the_ride.Another_way_is_too_bounce_the_car_by_hand_watching_for_the_number_of_bounces_that_it_takes more_than_two_is_considered_sloppy_and_in_need_of_replacement.