Starters and Ignition Systems

attached to the engine near the flywheel You have to go under the car. toward the back of the engine.

It depends on the age of the vehicle as newer cars use a coil for each spark plug, resulting in more expensive labor. It also depends on engines, if it is a V6 or above, the positioning of the engine could be so that three cylinders are positioned towards the rear of the engine compartment (the firewall) in which case you'll be paying more for labor really than parts (it's hard to work back there)

It can cost anywhere from $100 - $500+

How much 'older'? I have a '78 Bronco. Ignition switch has a bezel ring that secures the switch to the dash. Simply unscrew the ring from the front, then pull switch assembly from the rear of dash. Once it is free from dash there are plastic clips holding the assy together.

green signal wire goes to the negative side of coil, not the positive.

On your tach you probably have a ground(black),power(red), signal(green) and illumination(yellow?) wires. The signal wire splices into the positive side of the coil. The rest of the wires are pretty self explanatory. Make sure you have a solid ground and power. The illumination wire can be hooked into the headlight switch so it goes on with your lights. Tim

The statement above is true for hooking up a tach. I just installed one in my 87 gmc s15. the trucks are set up from the factory to come with one, so you will find a wire located in the wiring harness that has a hookup for your tach. This is so you dont have to mess with the distributer set up. This may save you some time.

The ignition coil creates the high voltage necessary in spark plugs to create the spark that ignites the gasoline fuel that creates the expanding gas that pushes on the cylinder making it move and turn the crank shaft of the engine. The rotating crank shaft powers the fuel pump, alternator, air conditioner. The rotating energy is passed to the transmission and to the drive shaft and wheels making the car or other gas powered vehicle go.

Unhook the wires on the starter, replace the fuse, turn the ingnition key on as if you were going to start the car. If the fuse does not blow, it is your starter. I just had this problem with a 1996 Dodge Stratus. I replaced the stater and it now works.

It's quite a process that shouldn't be attempted without the factory service manual. Basically, you need to remove the intake manifold to get to the starter. After the intake is off, it's easy to do. But the factory service manual would have all the info you need to safely and correctly remove the intake without damaging any of the delicate fuel injection parts.

What is the trick for removing the starter, from the engine, I have the starter unbolted but has a small compartment that stops me removing it from the engine?

The 1995 Pontiac Grand Am starter relay switch can be found on the firewall in the engine compartment. The starter relay switch will be on the drivers side of the firewall.

Call a locksmith. They have the tools necessary to take the lock apart and pop the key out. Or at least they have the tools to pull the key out - perhaps without taking anything apart.

its a long process,you need a steering wheel puller, once its off take the hazard button assembly out, take the turn signal loose, pull old ignition out, carefully install new one, and reverse procedure

To remove a starter on a Polaris Sportsman 400 one must either decide first whether they understands well enough to do the task on their own or if a mechanic should be called. Many times people who don't really know what they're doing wind up having left over parts from a vehicle when there should be none other than the replaced part.

if the motor cranks when you turn the key it is not the starter because in order for the engine to crank the starter must be turning the motor. it could be electrical or fuel related or sensor related, ect. depending on the model and year you could check for fault codes ie:OBD 1 or OBD 2

next to the oil pan (that big sqaure-ish pan on the bottom of the engine where the oil drain plug is), in front of the bellhousing . The easy way is to climb under the vehicle and look . you will see a cylindrical metal object about four inches in diameter, and eight inches long attached with a couple of bolts, to the forward side of the flywheel housing (bell housing). Looks like an electric motor....because it is one.

The key code for an ignition key is different for each make and model of car. The thing to do is contact the dealership or a locksmith to find the correct key code for the make and model of the vehicle in question.

put the key in the keyhole and turn it while holding the detent(the little metal cylinder that sticks out of the flat portion of the outside of the unit) when you feel the detent drop that's where the key needs to be. now slide the whole thing just as it is into the socket on the steering column, making sure its completely seated. voila!

This starter is directly under the fuel injector bar. It is virtually impossible to remove it from below but because you can touch it, that is a temptation. Don't try it! You are going to have to remove the fuel rail to get that starter out. Different shops quote varying prices but I opted for Pep Boys at $ 89.00 plus tax (and that included the rebuilt starter).

Yes it does, if it needs to be replaced i suggest going to your local auto parts store and buying one, this will give you an idea of what your looking for. There are two other relays that look exactly like this one and they are all located up against the fire wall. The Starter relay and the Fan relay are located on the drivers side. The Fan relay is the one closer to the fender and the Starter relay farther.

You have to remove the intake manifold, you should be able to get to the nine bolts through the wheel well. Once intake manifold is off, you will see the Starter. Two Connection, one Bolt, and one Nut. Disconnect the Battery first. Very Bad Design, and Strater placement. Good Luck.

In my experience with your hand anda few craftsman sockets and lowring the engine (there is no space for a tool to remove it so losen the engine mounts and transmounts takes about 3 to 6 hours to remove&instal plus a can of beer for me and your famiy (babies tooo)

I recently replaced the entire motor on an SL2 97 and the starter wasn't really a big deal.

It is behind the engine so you will need to first disconnect the positive battery cable.

Raise the vehicle.

The area you will be working in will be a bit tight but workable.

I found that removing the mounting bolts, lowering it gave me easier access to removing the wiring from it.

Reverse for installation.

#2 is an improvement over the first, but here's some additional info:

Two bolts. One is almost inaccessible. I used a 13mm deep well socket and a couple of different length extensions (one 4" and one 2") to reach the two different bolts and remove them.

While it helps to get as much room under the car as possible (I was only able to achieve a little under a foot working height with the ramps and jackstands I had), I also used a socket wrench (Stanley part #89-962--http://tinyurl.com/3587et) that allowed me to _twist_ the handle in addition to using a normal ratcheting action. Without it, I seriously doubt I would have removed the old starter and installed a new one in the time I did, since the working area is very, very constricted.

In addition to the two bolts, there are also the two nuts (referred to in answer 2) attaching the electrical leads. Frankly, I found them to be little trouble to remove before removing the mounting bolts, and my Mitchell's and Haynes books suggest removing them first to acoid damaging them.

Quick tip: working under the car in constricted spaces, keep track of nuts and bolts by attaching a STRONG magnet to the oil pan. Simply drop the nuts, bolts, sockets (and even extensions!) UP *heh* onto the magnet for handy retrieval later.

Still, if you are able to rent bay space and use a lift, the removal/installation would be much easier. Still constricted (and the Stanley tool or its equivalent still HIGHLY recommended!), but standing to work would make this a much, much easier task.

on the left side of the steering column remove the knob and rod(the one that adjust the steering wheel height) that goes into the steering column. stay on the left side (you are bypassing the key switch) look in the column and you see a rod that goes down the column. use the rod that you removed earlier to push that rod toward the dash. push like crazy you are trying to break a little metal clip in the switch. when it breaks you just push that down. push it a little you are the acc mode. push it a little more and it is the on position. push it some more and the motor will start. hold it in the on position while driving the truck or the steering column will lock and no steering from there. i know you wanted a simple way like they do in movies. sorry no cutting and touching of wires together is required. this is not hard to do and can be done in under a minute if you what you are doing.

When you insert a key into an ignition and it won't turn could be a couple of resons. One could be that the ignition is worn out and unable to match the cuts on the key or the key was improperly cut. Many GM vehicles (and potentially others) have a steering wheen lock that will lock the ignition key. Simply turning the steering wheel in either direction will fix this.

More than likely because of a short. its probably a shorted ignition switch

The Control module (I am assuming you are referring to the ECM) is located forward of the center consol and below the dash. The center consol and radio a/c control trim faceplate must be removed to gain access to it. Stan

Not easy you have to remove radiator and loosen steering pump to get access to it there are 3 bolts holding it on , slacken drive belt first and remember to disconnect the battery lead before you start good luck