Starters and Ignition Systems

battery,solenoil coil,cable wires,ignition switch

The ignition module for this vehicle is mounted on the driver side fender well just below the hood hinge and behind a round vacuum diaphram.It is rectangle in shape and has a connector plug at one end(facing towards the front of the vehicle)and is mounted on a aluminum base with cooling fins(much like a small lawn mower engine)

disconnect the battery first

remove the horn cover

use a 10 mm Allen 3/8's drive and remove the steering wheele its very tight

the steering wheele will slide off without a puller

remove the 3 screws holding the blinker/cruse switch housing in unplug them under the dash on the left side of the steering shaft. slide the steering shaft cover housing off and set aside

insert the key turn it to the on position and now you can remove the hole ignition housing from the steering shaft

if only trying to change the ignition and not the housing

insert the key turn it to on and unscrew the outside of the housing and then pull it out then remove the the tumbler housing

go to www.autozone.com,

Hello, If you are talking about the gear on the fly wheel, 1. remove the fly wheel from the back of the motor. 2. Remove any grease and oil. 3. put it into the kitchen oven at 400 deg. for about 20-30 min. 4. Then use pliers to remove or relocate the gear. The gear is made of softer metal than the wheel, so it will exspande at a lower temp and wheel need a higher temp to exspande. The heat from the oven will heat the gear evenly so it can be lifted off with pliers. J.

I have a 94 Nissan sentra but it's the same body style. My starter is located right below all the air intake hoses. the easiest way to find the starter is to take the airbox stuff out and then follow the ground wire from the negative end of the battery (the only wire leading off the negative end) to where it attatches to the transmission. The bolt that that wire attatches to is one of two bolts that attatches the starter to the transmission.

Start by pulling the horn button off of the steering wheel, just grab it and pull, you'll see a big nut in the middle you will need to remove it and at this point you will need a wheel puller to remove steering wheel, probaly can rent or borrow one. Then it's a screw that holds the turn signal in place, pay attention how it goes and remove, next remove the screws holding the turn signal assembly in place. You'll have to wiggle it around to get the 4 way flasher button to come out with the assembly, leaving the wires intact just pull to the side out of your way. Now theres a outside snap ring around the splined shaft below where the big nut was, very hard to see it helps if you have someone to push down on the steering wheel lock disc, that's the black disc with teeth around the outside. Once you get the snap ring off the disc will pull off also, At this point put key in OFF position and remove the last screw behind where disc was, should be in the upper right. This screw holds the lock cylinder in place it is longer than the others. Now gently pry the lock cylinder out, Don't move anything inside of steering coulum until you get new cylinder back in place. Then just reverse what you did to put it back together. I will admit snap ring is tough to remove, but process is kinda simple. On a scale of 1 - 10, i'd rate it a 4. Hope this helps..

The PGM-FI unit is located under carpet at the passenger side. It covered by frame. Good luck. The ignition control module of any late model Honda/Acura product is always the PGMFI computer, which controls all fuel delivery and ignition timing coordination. Now, if you have a problem, that is ignition related, first replace the plugs, then the wires, and shortly after the ign coil itself. That's how you approach a Honda ign prob.

under hood right side,follow the pos.batt.cable to it ____________________________________________ Starter Relay Test Place transmission in Park. Apply parking brake. Check for battery voltage between starter relay battery terminal and ground. Connect jumper wire on starter relay between battery and ignition terminals. If engine does not crank, connect a second jumper wire to starter relay between ground terminal and good ground and repeat test. If engine cranks in step 3, transmission linkage is misadjusted or neutral safety switch is defective. If engine does not crank in step 3, starter relay is defective.

Right side of vehicle under the oil filter for 4.0 engines.

It is located on the starter. The solenoid is another smaller cylindrical shaped device that is mounted to the starter.

If you have to replace it you have to buy the whole starter assembly that comes with a solenoid.

I have not found a way to replace only the solenoid.

Jeep engineered this to benefit their dealer service garages.

The steering wheel and key are linked together for anti-theft purposes. Try turning the wheel hard one way and see if the key becomes loose - can turn or be withdrawn. If no luck, try turning the wheel hard the other way. ***** Mine was tied to the electric system. My wife pulled the electric seat controls off of the door by closing it to hard. I had to rewire those first then the ignition unlocked. Good Luck.

Assuming it's a 4 cylinder, it's buried way up behind the back of the block and REALLY not a lot of fun to change because you need eight inch fingers with four knuckles to reach one of the bolts.

it my be that the steering wheel is to far over in order to realese. try pulling down the oppsite way from where the wheels are turned to. ie if the wheels are turned to the left turn the wheel to the right, at the same time try turning the key an remove it .

Remove the plastic shroud from the steering column by removing its screws in the holes underneath first, and then you look under the steering column near the igntion lock (probably half way back down the length of the lock) for the location of a small hole that you would put an icepick into,, and when you have the lock picked and turned 1/3 to the right (towards dash) you push up in the hole with the icepick to push in the set pin located in the lock-then you pull out the lock.

If you cant do this you will have to very, very gently drillout the lock by driling straight into the keyway bypassing two small hardened steel pins in it. If you do this be very careful not to damage any more of the lock center than you have to, or it can damage the outer casing of the stering column lock retaining mount and destroy it.

REmove the steering wheel then the lock plate. Then the t/s switch. Remove the key reminder contacts and there is a screw with a different head close to the lock cyl. Remove this screw and the lock cyl will come out. You will need a puller for the steering wheel and a tool for the lock plate both rentable from the parts store.

I have the same problem, going to have a locksmith make sure its the ignition switch and cylinder and just not a key problem or a tumbler problem.

In the absence of any other problems (such as lean running condition, worn or non-iridium spark plugs, or damp weather) expect an EGR valve stuck open or a faulty MAP sensor.

This happened to me. I took it to the dealer and they said they didnt know why it was stuck and they couldn't remove the key either. They suggested pulling out the steering column to remove the key. I declined due to time and potential cost...I could live with it for a bit. One of my employees was married to a guy who worked for a locksmith so I figured I'd check with him to see if he had any suggestions. He came and picked up my Passport and was back in less than 30 minutes, problem solved. He said there is a cable that runs from the gearshift (Automatic Trans) to the column or locking mechanism (it's been a few years and I don't recall exactly) that indicates the vehicle is in park and that cable was loose. If your vehicle isn't in park (or doesn't know its in park!) you can't remove the key. He tightened it up and viola. Check with a locksmith.

The Caddy STS Seville Came Out With a North Star Engine, And The Starter Is Under The Intake Manifold. It Is A Difficult Job To Replace. If You Are Not Well Adversed In Auto Engine Repair It Would Most Likely Best To Have A Good Garrage To Service It For You.

Depends on how heavy the rust is. Light surface rust comes right off with 0000 steel wool and a good gun oil. Heavier rust may need the attention of a gunsmith.

sales@countrygunsmith.net

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Good answer above. Remember that bluing is a FORM of rust, so rust removing chemicals, such as Naval Jelly, will also strip bluing in a blink.

it's underneath and bolts to the transmission via two bolts. it's the size of a small coffee can. it runs parallel to the oil pan.. it's big. you can' miss it. if you car is having trouble starting, look for corroded wires or a malfunctioning starter realy, which is bolted to the inner fender by the battery. email with further ?'s

Short answer: Fires the spark plugs. The ignition coil is nothing more that an electrical transformer. It contains both primary and secondary winding circuits. The coil primary winding contains 100 to 150 turns of heavy copper wire. This wire must be insulated so that the voltage does not jump from loop to loop, shorting it out. If this happened, it could not create the primary magnetic field that is required. The primary circuit wire goes into the coil through the positive terminal, loops around the primary windings, then exits through the negative terminal. The coil secondary winding circuit contains 15,000 to 30,000 turns of fine copper wire, which also must be insulated from each other. The secondary windings sit inside the loops of the primary windings. To further increase the coils magnetic field the windings are wrapped around a soft iron core. To withstand the heat of the current flow, the coil is filled with oil which helps keep it cool. The ignition coil is the heart of the ignition system. As current flows through the coil a strong magnetic field is built up. When the current is shut off, the collapse of this magnetic field to the secondary windings induces a high voltage which is released through the large center terminal. This voltage is then directed to the spark plugs through the distributor.

Remove the dash trim around the gauge cluster and radio. It helps to put the shifter in 1st to get it out. Remove the upper and lower steering column covers. Disconnect the air bag(unhook the battery first). You'll have to remove the steering wheel to gain access to one of the bolts that holds the tumbler housing to the column. I think there are 3 in total, they are torx heads. Remove those bolts and the housing will come off.

If I misunderstood the question and all you want to replace is the plastic switch that is turned by the tumbler when the key is turned. You can get to that by just removing the plastic around the column. Below the key you will see the big wiring harness.(disconnect the battery) This piece can be pulled out of the bottom of the tumbler housing with a screw driver. Once it's out you will see what the tumbler actually is turning when you turn the key.

Disconnect the battery Remove the plastic column cover. between the ignition and the steering wheel towards the bottom you will see a pin hole. inside that pin hole you will see a little silver pin.you will need a metal pick that fits into the hole. insert the key and turn like you are going to start it.insert the pick,push the pin and pull the key out. the whole lock cylinder will come with the key. just pull straight out to the right --do not turn it should already be on the furthest forward position.

On the 2.2 and 2.5 common block the starter is always at the rear of the engine, below the exhaust manfold on the drivers side. It is nestled on the back of the block and goes into the transaxle housing. The bolts are not easy to get to.