Toyota T100

Hi there, I hope that I can help as I have had a heck of a time trying to find the answer to this question myself. The valve setting for a Chevy 350 engine is as follows :- Intake 10 - 27 thou (inches) Exhaust 10 - 27 thou (inches) I have a 1977 Chevy Scottsdale camper Special C20 2 wheel drive, 3/4 tonne Pick-up truck and tried setting the valves as directed by Chevy, and also the Haynes manuals. Don't bother as the info that they provide is so vague, it's a joke. I actually found the valve settings in an obscure part of the Haynes manual and the description was so poorly written that if I couldn't read between the lines, then it would have gone unseen. Having taken into account the age of my engine, mileage etc etc I decided to set all my valves with a setting of 10 thou. Ideally you should take the middle of the difference, 10 - 27 thou, difference of 17, split by 2, ......8 and add to the smallest setting, 10 thou + 8 thou gives 18 thou !!!!!!!!! After having set my valves the engine now runs like a dream. And, to prove that it is correct, 4 days later I did a road trip from Vancouver Island to Alberta, a distance of approx 800 miles/1200 kms and the engines still runs like a dream and starts on the very first turn of the key. The exhaust is a clean sooty black, the power range is improved, mileage is also improved and the sound of the engine just purring is also prove. I hope that this helps out all that are looking for the answer, Tony.

cam92rs- hydrolic lifters and solid lifters are completely different. chances are you have hydrolic flat tappet cam and lifters. the best way to adjust those are to run the engine and losen 1 rocker at a time, till it chatters, then tighten till the chatter stops, then go a quarter turn tighter. that's an old mans tip and they have been doing it this way for years. the correct lash is (0) zero. tighten the rocker while turning the pushrod until you feel slight resistance.. there should be no up and down movement.

Trouble code P1300 means: Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1

I've been researching it myself and most answers I've seen say anywhere from a couple of days to a week

On a **1986** Toyota Pickup (Hopefully they are similar): Unhook the positive end of your battery from the rest of your truck's electrical with a wrench. Next, there is a plug on the back of the alternator, push in the clip on the side and unplug. Next to the plug us a rubber housing, pull this back and take the screw off, removing the wire cable it was holding. There are now only two bolts holding the alternator. The first one is up top and connects to a rail that guides the alternator left and right (to tighten the alternator belt) unscrew this. Next, remove the trucks skid plate up front, there should be 4 bolts holding it in place. Once this is done, take out the coolant hose (a 1' hose with a slight S-Bend in it, it may take some wiggling to get it off). Next remove the lower bolt from underneath the alternator and pull the alternator out from the bottom. Once you replace the alternator you need to tighten the belt, it needs to be about 80 +/- 20 lbf You may have to take your truck into a local shop to have them tighten the belt for you ($30 labor) if you don't have the right torque equipment.

It is a good habit to always disconnect the negative battery post first when you start the job and reconnect the negative battery post last when done with the job.

I can tell you what NOT to do. Do not install after market intake or exhaust. Those absolutely kill low end power.

^^^^don't listen to this guy

adding an aftermarket cold air intake and free-er flowing exhaust will help improve low end torque. Don't add a massive diameter exhaust pipe, but a smartly built mandrel bent pipe will improve you're overall power.

Yes, a 1998 T100 SR5 bed should fit a 1996 T100, as both models share a similar frame and body design. However, it's essential to check for any minor differences in mounting points or bed design between the two model years. Additionally, consider any potential variations in trim or features that may affect compatibility. Overall, the fit should generally be compatible with some minor adjustments if necessary.

Pontiac 3.1

Pontiac 3.1

Timing belt

If you are just dropping the pan and replacing the filter, it will be approx. 3.5 - 4.0 liters.

6.5" fronts

The Toyota brake light fuse can be found in the fuse box. The exact location is dependent upon the year of the vehicle. The location of the fuse can be found on the inside cover of the fuse box.

The factory sticker on mine says it should be .008 on both intake and exhaust.

Take it to a Toyota dealer. After the gas pedal sticks or the brakes don't work! Or wait and see if it goes on a recall list.

I am currently replacing the fuel pulsation dampener on a 1994 T100, and it absolutely requires the manifold plenum be removed from the lower half of the intake manifold simply to gain access to the fuel rail and the pulsation dampener. Accessing and removing the pulsation dampener is not very hard to do, I did it this evening in a little less than an hour with basic hand tools. First all fuel lines, vacuum lines, coolant lines, EGR exhaust feed tube, electric connections, Throttle cables, etc.. and the bracket under the pass. side need to be removed from the plenum. Then the plenum can be unbolted from the lower half of the manifold and lifted off (if it has been on there a while you'll need to replace the plenum gasket. Be sure to stuff paper towels down in the lower manifold runners to prevent debris from entering the engine.) Then the line that transfers fuel from one fuel rail to the other fuel rail at the back of the rails needs to be removed. Now a good crescent wrench can be used to remove the pulsation dampener. Viola... Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to run a fuel line from the pressure regulator back to the fuel tank return line, and using the diagnostics connector and a jumper wire between FP and +B with the key on, pressure test the fuel system while you can see everything before the plenum is reinstalled and blocking your view.

Look above the fuse cluster behind the left kick panel.

Not 100% sure about the Toyota truck, but I had that same problem with a late 90's Chevy. Turned out to be the clutch fan ($25 part) after I had replaced almost everything in the cooling system.

On the 3.4 liter it is on the side of the throttle plate assembly which is on top the engine. If you are looking at the engine with the hood up, it is on the back side of the throttle assembly toward the firewall. The one I saw is black and has an electrical connector It is perpendicular to the throttle plate shaft and is attached to one end of it on the back of the assembly.
They are expensive... about $100 when I called about one the other day.
AE_pgh

Haynes Auto manuals from AutoZone.Best books I've found yet. Toyo joe

If you have the 3.0L engine with a manual transmission it is a direct bolt up i dont know about the automatic but i am sure it is the same if you are switching from a four cylinder to the 3.4L then it requires a lot more work but it can be done a well

follow the 2 hoses that go into the firewall-drivers side hose should be the heater core--on the 95 T100 it is located behind the controls for the heat and air--

On the passanger side under the dash, behind the blower motor. there is a wire harness with 2 screws unscrew the 2 screws and unplug the wire connector and the relay will fall right out Install in reverse order

yes

you have to take off the top two peices of the intake to get to it but be careful of the gaskits because they are over priced. there are about 15 hoses and about 5 wires to take off. I would label the hoses. and be careful not to over tighten the valve cover bolts only about 53 inch pounds

Crawl under the truck and look. If it has one you will see it.