VW New Beetle

Inside the trunk there is a round panel about 6 inches in diameter just in front of each tail light. Typical German engineering dictates that you take a small flat blade screwdriver and pop this panel off the light you want to access. Then you reach into the access hole and unscrew a large plastic nut with your fingers. It takes several turns to get the nut to come off. Make sure not to drop it into the fender well, quite frustrating if you drop it like I have before. After you get this plastic nut removed, you will then move to the outside of the trunk - just to the side of the trunk opening. You will be prying the now loosened tail light assembly out of the fender. To do this, you will need to find something that like a sharp rigid plastic wedge and slowly pry it under the rubber weatherstripping on the tail light assembly. If you were to resort to a flat blade screwdriver, I would place something rigid and flat under the screwdriver so you do no not dent the fender while prying the light out. Even with the plastic nut removed from the trunk, the light is still difficult to pry out of the fender. The assembly has plastic tongs that catch under the outer edge of the assembly (the part on the outside of the assembly) toward the outer edge of the rear fender.) It is important that you only pry on the assembly from the part of the tail light assembly closest to the trunk opening. If you pry elsewhere, you will break the assembly. You slowly insert the wedge and pry gently on the rubber weatherstripping to lift the edge of the tail light assembly out of the fender. It takes kind of a popping action to pry and "pop" it this corner of the assembly out of the fender. Notice it will appear to be hinged on the outside, but again, this is not a hinge but a sizeable lip on the outer edge of the tail light assembly. Gently pry the assembly out of the fender, and as you pull it completely out of the fender well, you will notice that there is a piece of spring steel that is attached to the stud that you removed the nut off at the beginning. You will want to pay attention to the placement of this stud as you will have to put it back into the hole in the trunk when you re-insert the tail light assembly later. After you have removed the tail light assembly, you can then remove the bulb and put in a replacement.

Re-assembly: You insert the tail light assembly with the tonged portion - the part with the lip first, put this lip under the fender, then push the stud into the hole in the trunk for use later. Press firmly on the tail light assembly and it will pop back into place in the fender. Reach into the trunk, take the plastic nut and place it through the the access hole in the trunk to re-install it onto the stud that holds the tail light assembly. Tighten several revolutions, you will know when you have secured it properly, just turn it until finger tight is as tight as you can get it. Pop the plastic cover back into the access hole and you are done.

Try Chilton's Electrical Manual

Its probably in the same place it is on my 2002 VW Passat. The fuse panel is on the left side of the dash (you have to open the drivers door to get to it. The fuse for the blinkers is the little "10" fuse in the far top-left of the fuse panel.

I just fixed my blinkers but it wasnt the fuse... i had to replace the turn signal relay. It is built into the hazard light button on your dash. If the fuse is not blown...this is probably your problem. Buy a new hazard light button/turn signal relay for $25 and you're good to go. Just yank the old one out with a screwdriver/pliers and plug in the new one.

When my 1999 VW Passat seemed low on fluid, I discovered the manufacturer's theory it would never need fluid, hence, no dip stick. A dealership wanted $200 to change the fluid, and if it was ever low again, same problem. I dropped the pan and changed the filter, drilled a 7/16 hole in the front of the pan, tapped the hole 1/4 NPT, screwed 1/4 x 2 brass pipe nipple into hole, and installed pan. I then pushed 1/2" x 3' heater hose onto nipple, clamped it and brought the end up to hood level. I put in 5 quts. Pennzoil Muti-Vehicle ATF. That was one year/15000 miles ago- no problems.

to the right of the tranni under the hood a small ball dip stick for auto tranni if manuel you must take it to a shop

Their is a great Volkswagen site called thesamba.com it has VW owners from all over the world. you can post pics and buy parts. I myself have a Bus.

first torque step is 84in-lbs...second torque step is 18 if you have small m8 studs or 23 for big m10 studs

The distributor gear is off by 1 tooth, you probably recently have a a timing belt.

There are pages and pages and items that can cause a check engine light. You need to have it checked for codes with a scan tool. After repair light can be shut off with scan tool.

And then in two weeks it will come on again and it will be something else. Save your money trade it in or go broke chasing your tail.VW Beetle's are to expensive to own.

If its manual you obviously don't know how to drive it. I have a 1985 Cabriolet and I don't have any problems with it and its been sitting on a driveway for 5 years.

"Stalling while driving" could have a number of reasons. I'm afraid this question is too vague to genuinely answer; more details are needed, but the most likely cause lies with a fuel delivery issue.

----------------

Manual cars can be tricky if someone doesn't know how to drive a stick shift one way to see if its you or the car is have a friend that drives a stick test drive your car with you in it.

It might be a clog in the fuel system somewhere or a backed up catalytic converter. It would help to know exactly when and how its stalling out IE at red lights going up hill,downhill around curves. I say this because when a car stalls at different points its symptomatic.

i have a 1992 volkswagen GTI and it was doing the same thing stalling while driving and we found the it was the fuel pump relay good luck

---------------------

My 87 Jetta had an intermittent stall problem, even while doing highway speeds it would just die. Sometimes it would restart... sometimes it would restart after several minutes off. I removed the fuse/relay box cover and by tapping on the tops of the relays it would occasionally recover.

It turned out to be the fuel pump relay. It has a control circuit built in, the part that causes it to shut down the fuel pump if the engine isn't running, used to prevent gasoline being pumped after an accident that may have damaged the fuel lines causing gas to pump on the ground.

I had to resolder a few of the connections in the relay and so far it's been fine. The problem was a couple of broken solder connections to the PC board, and it is fixable if you have some experience soldering. Otherwise, get another relay and you're good. There is also a known issue with those cars having grounding problems in the fuse block, thankfully that wasn't the problem.

Since that relay can be non-destructively disassembled, I'm going to check it on every one I deal with in the future, since it seems to be a recurring problem on the gas engine variety of those cars.

I had this problem a few years ago with my 93 Cabriolet and it turned out my steering column was lose. It was a quick inexpensive fix and has been fine since.

I just paid my VW dealer $469 for the 40k service ... they wanted an additional $315 to "fix" the "electrical problem" with my turn indicator lights. I said "screw that!" So the bastids gave my car back without an inspection sticker.

I looked everywhere for the flasher unit (some months ago) whenever the turn indicators ceased working properly (intermittent) ... then again before I took it in to the dealer ... but to no avail. I figured it might be well hidden up underneath the dash in some totally inaccessible location ... or buried beneath all that plastic shrouding underneath the hood ... but I couldn't see anything that looked remotely like a flasher unit.

So, remembering that it would "flash" once about every 20 times turn signal lever was flipped, I determined to find it. I parked in my quiet driveway and lay down with my ear near the dash and flipped the turn indicator lever until I got a single weak "click." It appeared to be coming from the "emergency flasher" switch ... you know, the one in the lower switch panel (flanked by the rheostats for the heated seats) with a triangular icon. That's it! The emergency flaser switch IS the turn flasher relay, too! Getting access isn't easy.

You need one of those fancy-smancy star-shaped screwdrivers (and a stubby, at that) to remove the 4 screws ... two at the bottom of the plastic housing in which the switches are mounted, and two more are revealed whenever you pry off the plastic trim that surrounds the rheostats at each end of the switch panel (yep, they just pry right off with your fingers ... pull TOWARD you). Once you have the 4 retaining screws extracted, you can pry the whole switch panel downward at the back, and free up a lip on the upper front edge, dropping the whole thing downward so you can access the wiring harnesses and back-sides of the switches. Pry off the wiring connector from the back of the unit (there's a plastic keeper, but just wiggle the plug & pull sternly and it'll come right off without breaking anything). Then push down on a retainer at the top front of the switch unit and shove it forward and slide it out of the switch panel.

This is the cheapest crappiest constructed switch I have ever seen on a German engineered automobile (maybe it's made in Mexico?). The trouble with mine was the burnt-up contact points of the relay. You have to remove the activator button (the iconized cap) off the front of the switch in order to get the case off (it slides right off if you pry up the edges with a knife tip to free the latches) to get inside for surgery. Doing some micro-surgery to clean the single relay contacts and bend them (with a very fine needle nosed pliers) slightly so that they once again touched when the coil was activated, solved my problem.

Wow! Charging $117 for this cheap piece of crap ought to be felonious!

I forgot to mention ... I checked several different parts houses for a flasher for my 2001 Beetle (AutoZone, NAPA, O'Reilly] ... but they didn't even have a listing for one in their systems. One said his only entry was "dealer item."

Here is the exact numbers from the side panel on mine:

[VW logo] PNT Germany ICO 953 235 WBS + D1 PA6.6 GF30 [a symbol looking like a musical note]

Hey ... hey ... hey ... found a VW Hazard Flasher Switch here for $22:

http://www2.discountvdubparts.com/parts/parts1/discountvdubparts/wizard.jsp?year=2001&make=VW&model=BET--004&category=P∂=Hazard+Flasher+Switch&dp=false

, THANK YOU, THEY Wanted to charg me about $250 and they say it was some electrical problem, i replaced the part myself for $30 thank you again.

You can find the VIN number on the frame at the steering head.

Replace either the Catalytic converter or the Smog Pump and Charcoal Canister.

on the bottom of the engine there is a round plate with like 8 little bolts around the rim and 1 big one in the middle. to drain the oil remove the big one. to replace the oil screen (Filter) remove the small ones after you've drained the oil. Put the screen and the plate back on and put the big oil plug bolt back in. Then fill the engine with oil. I think it takes 2.5 quarts but I'm not positive about that. You put the oil in next to the generator, you can't miss it. It's a very easy job. about 30 minutes.

This is a very good description. I'm going to add a few things... Everyone knows Volkswagens leak oil, right? (The rumor, when these cars were still being made, was that if Volkswagen accidentally made a car that didn't leak, they took it to a special room and drilled holes in the bottom of it.) If you want yours to not leak oil, at least around the oil strainer cover, put the car on jackstands and crawl under with a pair of vise-grips. Remove the cheesy little acorn nuts and throw them away, then unscrew the studs they were on from your engine case. Go to Home Depot with one of the studs and buy six stainless-steel metric bolts--IIRC the size you want is 6mm x anything between 20mm and 30mm. They have a little measurer sitting there you can check the stud size and thread pitch, but I bought the ones I used in my engine from there. Also get six split lockwashers. If you have a Bus that's 1972 or newer or any vintage of 411, be sure to use only 20mm bolts--anything longer and you risk hitting the camshaft. Volkswagen changed the oil strainer cover plate in 1974. They found out people were not cleaning the oil strainer during oil changes (mainly because the number-one cause of oil leaks is removing then replacing the notoriously-easy-to-strip acorn nuts), so they removed the drain plug. Now, the only way to get the oil out of the car is to remove the oil strainer, and the theory was that as long as you had it out anyway, you'd throw it in solvent for a few minutes. You've figured out the problem with this bright idea, of course: you will get DRENCHED in oil every time you change it. This is a historical note and not one of significance because the first thing the dealer's tech did when the car came in for its first oil change was to throw the new-model strainer cover in the trash and replace it with an old-model cover. What's NOT a historical note is the need to clean the strainer. You gotta do it, folks. Take the cover off, pull the strainer out and clean it in solvent. And please note: even though, right now, gasoline is cheaper than mineral spirits, I beg of you to NOT try to save money by washing parts in gas. It's dangerous for you, the environment, and (if you don't get it all out of the strainer) your car. Please wash this in mineral spirits. Oil capacity is 2500ml. Two and a half quarts is close enough.

It is a 20 amp fuse and located in position 27.

how do you check the transmission fluid in a jetta 2003

I just changed the oil on my 2005 Bug. I suggest you surf the interent and pull up a few webs sites. Look for pictures, big help. I just changed the oil on my 2005 Bug. I suggest you surf the interent and pull up a few webs sites. Look for pictures, big help.

Depending on your temperature, 10-30w. If the temp regularly gets below zero (F), then switch to 5-30w during colder months.

If you look at the front grill, below the bumper, the small bulb like sensor is snapped into the lower drivers side there.

Ive heard of some volvo's Running well past 400,000 but they usually say "high milage" is 75,000 or more. Some may dissagree, but alot of imported cars run longer with less trouble. Not always true tho. This can be estimated from published figures on a country's vehicle miles, total number of vehicles and vehicle sold per year. Estimate rather than calculation as the last figure varies a lot between year and year. Roughly: US 160000 Australia 145000 UK 125000 Canada & France 115000 Rest of Europe 105000 Japan 70000 Before my 1988 Mustang LX was demolished last month, the odometer had reached a whooping 479686 miles.. and still performed excellently, well until the accident. I used to have a 91 Infiniti G20 that have 315000, but then I crashed it :( ... ran like a marathoner, though, smooth and quiet.

I am uncertain about the 1998 LSI. However, for the 1993 Geo Metro there are two bolts located at the bottom of the exhaust manifold which need to be removed, then there is a hanger right behind the engine on the firewall which has a rubber piece on it from which the exhaust system is suspended upon. The easiest way to get that off is to pull the rubber piece off of the end of it. In total there are three hangers on the "93" Metro exhaust system with a place approximately in the middle where the exhaust system is bolted together with two bolts. I certainly could be wrong, however I can't imagine the exhaust system being too different on a "98" LSI. If a person takes a board, like a 2X6 and puts it under the passenger side of your vehicle, another 2X6 and places it on the ground under the passenger side of your vehicle and uses it for a base to place a jack upon, and uses the first 2X6 as a buffer between the top of the jack and the bottom of the car to eliminate any buckling of the underside of the car due to the small amount of area the top of the jack is lifting the car by, lift the car up. The passenger side of the car is the side usually where you will find the exhaust system. Once a person has the car jacked up fairly high (12 inches or more) then it is an easy process (usually) to slide under and replace the exhaust system. I am not an certified mechanic and from start to finish I can replace the exhaust system on a "93" in about 20 to 30 minutes. Hope this at least gives a person sort of Idea of how to approach that small task.. rhage2

J C Wwitney has manuals

Unless you have all the tools you need to fix it (you don't; a lot of the tools you need for a transmission repair are specific to that task), do not attempt to open a transmission. You can remove it from the car and clean it, but go no further.

Hi

I have a 2001 and there is a leave (small) in side behind the head light you push it up. That will unlock it then the light it tight but you can then pull it forward to remove it. Very simple once you unclock it.