Alarm Systems

Sit in the driver's seat and lock all the doors.

Unlock and open the driver's door.

Insert the key into the ignition and remove it (don't turn it...just remove it).

Using the MANUAL lock switch on the driver's door, lock and unlock the door 5 times.

Close the door.

Open the door.

Lock and unlock the driver's door 5 times (I'm almost certain you use the MANUAL lock switch again, but if this sequence fails to work, try again with the power switch).

Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ON" position.

Remove the key.

The driver's door will now lock and unlock itself one time.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob for at least 1 second.

Close the driver's door.

Open the driver's door.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob for at least one second.

Close the driver's door.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob. The door will lock.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob again. The door will unlock.

You should be all set.

I am researching this myself due to a faulty alarm that keeps me from starting my own car. As soon as I get the answer I'll pass it along.

Newer vehicles come with "Smart" Keys, these keys have a small chip built into them. A dealer or true Lock smith can look up the vehicles VIN and contact the manufacturer to get the codes to program into the chip to make their key act like the original. If the car does not use a smart key, the alarm should have a remote that came with the car, it should be able to deactivate the alarm, if not it's battery may be dead, and can be replaced. If you want to totally disable the alarm, you can either remove the alarm module if it is an "After Market" type, but if it is truly factory equipment, it will be integrated with the body computer, and removal is not an option. I hope this helps; Phill

notified colonists of the approach of British troops

check the lines that run to the sensors for a short. the trunk and hood usually have a switch and the doors are usually hooked to the dome light circuit. if you have a motion sensor try lowering the sensitivity

The blinking alarm light on the instrument cluster can indicate a few different issues. It may signify a malfunction in the vehicle's alarm system, such as a faulty sensor or wiring problem. Alternatively, it could be a reminder of a security feature, such as key fob detection or an unarmed alarm system. If the light persists without any alarms, it's advisable to consult the vehicle's manual or a professional mechanic for diagnosis.

I had a similar problem when I first got my Avenger. My remote was not working, so everytime I locked the door ( while open)the alarm would arm. This is the trick: Lock the door when it's closed, don't lock it when it's open otherwise the alarm will go off.

OR

You can disarm the alarm by unlocking the trunk with the key. I learned of this from a Dodge dealership. Had issues with the remote and once you lock the car from the inside or out it is armed. I ran into times where i would lock the door after getting in then once i started the car alarm would go off or once locked you cannot open the door from the inside or alarm will go off.

When you turn the ignition, Tahoe trys to start, but cuts out. Security light flashes. The security system opens and lock doors and is connected to the horn. How do we get this car to start?

We could not reset by holding the lock and unlock buttons at the same time for 7 seconds, nothing happened with the door locks. New battery replaced in remote unit.

===

Here's what I do that works for me: put the key in and turn it to the accessory position, but don't start the car. Wait about 12 minutes. Start the car - it should work. (Sometimes I put the parking brake on to kill the headlights and prevent unnecessary drain on my battery while the key is in the ignition.)

YES! I have one. Its just the remote start manual correct, cuz the 560xv is the remote start and alarm model.

try turning the ignition on(leaving vehicle off) and press the manual override button that is installed inside the vehicle once(if not, press the button keep it press and turn on the igniion).the light should go off. and you'll be set.

In order of complexity:

As long as you don't allow your kids to play with the remote, since, if you

read your owners manual, one of the features is a 'panic' mode....

We'll assume that since you're here searching for an answer, you're smarter

than that.

Either the battery in your remote control is going dead or the remote itself

needs it's push button switches cleaned, usually with a decent electronics

cleaner that doesn't attack plastic.

In the meantime, remove the battery from the remote to stop 'falsing' @

the truck anti-theft unit and use the key to unlock the drivers door.

If removing the battery from the remote stops all the weird alarm behavior

you've found your problem. There's also the possibility that the circuit board

in the remote was stressed after one too many battery replacements

and solder connections are starting to come loose. You know, worn out?

Next, clean your trucks' battery terminals/battery posts! Dirty power connections play

havoc especially with the factory alarm. But it'll mess up your ECM (Engine

control module) also and give you terrible fuel mileage, to boot!

If deactivating the remote (usually does in 80-90% of cases) doesn't work

and the truck anti-theft unit keeps 'falsing', you're going to have to refer to the

service manual to 'massage' the connector on the anti-theft unit, which is the second

most common problem with these units.

Personally, I pack the cable end of the connector with silicon spark plug boot grease

which allows the individual connectors in the block to float and make better connections since the silicon is electrically neutral and doesn't attract dust. This is not

referenced or recommended in any way by Nissan, but my experiences have

proven me correct, at least on my own 2000 4x4 Crewcab.

Finally, if all else fails, unplug the anti-theft unit or replace it.

In most cases, you'll find replacing the unit doesn't fix the problem. It's

located above in one of the mentioned items, or a bad detector (switch, probably

dirty) in the truck door/body.

Hope this helps. Use it as general guide.

-Ric

you have a black box when you trace the wires back when you get to the box on the left will be four black connectors disconnect them then loop the first two then the second two and disconnect the rest and away you go

Insert the key as normal, but do not turn key all the way. Stop at "acc" accessory, wait no less than 10 min. (I waited 12 once). From "acc" you should be able to start the vehicle. This is called a Passkey re-learn procedure. Basically resetting the computer to recognize your encoded key. Dealerships can hit you hard if they convince you that a scanner is needed!

1 remove battery from fob

2 press both buttons in turn for 30 second once this has been done replace battery.

3 now make sure car is unlocked by the key

4 place remote close to door lock pin and press lock button 3 times quickly this should lock the door then your done

<<take a wrench and crawl under the car, there should be a few colored wires next to right front wheel. take the red wire and cut it close to its starting point, the alarm will start. then cut the blue and yellow wires immediately afterwards

>>

That is a crap answer...

1993.5 Infinity G20 alarm removal / disengage /disconnect. Pulling the wiring connection off of the theft module cured my problem, who needs an alarm on a 1993 car anyway? The alarm mode was on with dead key FOBS and no way to reset it, horn beeping, would not start, and the alarm would not turn off with the key or remote.

1. disconnect battery

2. disconnect theft module, the theft module (black box the size of a pack of cigs) is located next to and right of the steering column next to the flasher module (turn flashers on and you can feel the flasher module pulse). It is tucked up under, but the push tab can be reached as you pull the connection out, I took the steering column cowling off and the metal dash shield so I could get at it better (a few screws and bolts., no big deal)

3. assemble dash

4. connect battery

Ok, I had the same problem with a Nissan Maxima! Here is what I did:

First, you need to cut all the wires from the alarm and splice them back where they came from. Its a difficult! Secondly, you have to find the fuel pump relay switch, which should be a blue box in the kick panel. Jump the relay switch so it by passes the relay. All the alarm actually does is cut off the power to the fuel pump. Or, if you take a hot wire and run it to the fuel pump the car will start. In the box under the dash should be a black box. It has a key inside of it with a mirror. You need to take that key and try starting the car.

GM DELCO THEFTLOCK RADIO UNLOCK CODE:

1. Press and hold presets 2 and 3 for about 5 to 10 seconds until you

get 3 digits on your display. This is the first 3 of 6 digits you will

need, so write 'em down.

2. After doing step one and writing down the code, immediately press

the

AM/FM button to get the last 3 of the 6 numbers you'll need, and write

'em down. (if you wait too long between steps 1 and 2 and the LOC code

displays again, just start over).

3. Call this number, it's a prerecorded message, so don't worry about

having to talk to anyone...1-800-537-5140. The voice will ask if

you're

calling for Chevy, Pontiac, Cadillac, etc... When you here him tell

you

to press "2" for Pontiac, press 206010 and hit the # key. He'll ask

you

for the 6 digit code that you've written down. Enter that and press

the

* key. He will then give you a code, and the option to get additional

4

digit codes, but one should be sufficient.

4. Follow the normal procedure in your owners manual for unlocking the

radio with your new code...press the hour set button on your radio

until

you get the first two numbers of the code, then press the minute set

button until you've entered the last two numbers. Immediately press

the

AM/FM button once the correct code is entered and the code SEC or

"secured" will be displayed on the display screen. Now, just turn the

radio on, and your ready to roll.

There is an additional step you can take to remove all codes from the

radio and start from scratch by entering your own personalized 4 digit

code so that it won't get you in a pickle again! Just repeat step 4

and

you should get a display screen that reads ---. This means the code is

out, and you can now program your own code. Of course, once you

receive

the 4 digit code from the GM recorded message, just keep it in a safe

place, because you can use that same code again and again should you

have any more problems with it in the future. Good luck, and yes, it

does work.

what all is it doing

i have a 99 mystique and my CPU went out and i had to find a new CPU but what my car did was try to start but it couldn't what i would do is take to a dealership and find out if it is the security system first off then i would go and replace any thing that is wrong with the vehicle such as CPU ignition coil knock senser and try again if it is still doing the same thing take it to the dealership and have them reprogram your vehicle it is not that expesive if you do it yourself and when ford resets your security then it should start wright on up i did have a problem but that is how i fixed my car so you should try to the CPU's in the car could have just burnt up and that is what would stop it from starting because mine would turn over but not start well i hope this will help you in this little matter

check your fuses

Something may have gone wrong with the alarm so try cutting power to the alarm by pulling the fuse and see if things go back to normal.

The usual format for remote alarm reporting is the DTMF system. This is the Dual Tone Multi-Frequency system.

Alarm reporting formats differ depending on the monitoring station, but the most common are Contact ID & SIA.