Alarm Systems

have you tried disconnecting the battery then reconnecting?

THE REMOTE CONTROL

Your remote control has been designed to fit the natural contours of your hands so that it is easier to use. It works off three long-life lithium batteries.

It can control two vehicles separately. Up to four remote controls can be assigned to your vehicle. See your dealer for replacement batteries or additional remote controls.

NOTE: The range of your remote control can be affected by a weak battery, interference from nearby metal structures, hydro poles, or crowded parking lots.

USING YOUR REMOTE CONTROL

Your remote control can transmit on two different channels, allowing control of two separate vehicles.

Only the "Panic" command is transmitted on both channels simultaneously (6-button remote only).

Audible (piezo) and visual (LED) confirmations are emitted with the 6-button remote while the 5-button remote allows only visual confirmations.

CHANNEL 1:

CHANNEL 2:

To transmit a command on channel 1, press desired button for two seconds.

To transmit a command on channel 2, press desired button, then as soon as a tone is heard or that the LED flashes once, release the button for a moment then press it again and hold down for two seconds.

A command will not be executed if you do not press button long enough.

Only one command is transmitted even when a button is pressed for more than two seconds, except for the "Panic" button, which repeats command as long as button is pressed.

The remotes shown may differ from the one(s) included in the kits.

BATTERY REPLACEMENT

Your remote works off three 3-volt lithium CR-2016 batteries or equivalent.

We strongly recommend that you keep a replacement set in your glove compartment.

To replace the batteries, remove screw on back of remote case, remove old batteries and replace with new ones. Make sure that batteries point the right way; see illustration opposite.

A pictogram in the bottom of the case shows correct battery orientation.

CODE LEARNING OF ADDITIONAL TRANSMITTER(S)

Four different remote controls can be programmed for a given vehicle. If a fifth remote is added, the first remote is deleted. Note: When the first code learning command is sent, all the old codes are cleared out. therefore if you want to add a new remote, all the old ones must be reprogrammed as well.

One or more remote transmitters can be added. To do this, the programming is accessed as follows:

􏰀 Open hood

􏰀 Place key in the ignition and turn to the RUN position

􏰀 Apply the brakes once

􏰀 You now have 10 seconds to turn the key from the RUN to the OFF position 3 times.

􏰀 If this sequence is correctly carried out, the control module flashes parking lights (4 flashes). You may then

proceed to the next step.

􏰀 Press the button on the new remote control. When access code of new remote control is memorized, the control module will confirm with flashing parking lights (1 flash).

􏰀 Repeat the above procedures for each remote control that has to be programmed (up to 4 remotes).

􏰀 Apply the brakes.

New remote(s) is (are) now added to the system.

Yes, on a Series One 3800 V6 use a shorter belt... AutoZone Duralast Multi-V belt Part Number 795K6.. which is basically a 79 1/2 inch belt. I routed the belt exactly as the diagram shows, just omitting the Supercharger. I took it to a mechanic I trust afterward (even though he said it couldn't be done) so he could take a look and make sure I wasn't going to blow the motor. He said that all his references showed no danger, just that the performance would be "a little less peppy", and since then I've driven 1,000+ miles and everything seems to be running along just fine.

Please note: there is a power steering line that the belt may rub against so adjust by bending that metal hose very gently upward with a crow bar until the belt is clear (maybe 1/4 inch).

On a Series Two 3800 V6 supercharged engine, the supercharger has it's own separate accessory belt which can simply be removed and the car will run just fine, the computer adjusts automatically and there are no intake manifold problems.

A Spider key is a homemade tool used mostly by shop lifters to disable certain electronic loss prevention devices stores put on their higher end items like the digital cameras and flat screen TV's at Wal-Mart. The key is made out of a credit card sized piece of wood or plastic with four small strong magnets glued on each corner in a specific pattern of "pulling" and "pushing" magnetic fields. The credit card sized key replicates the magnetic code the store uses to remove the security devices once the product has been purchased. These keys are technically not illegal but if you are caught with one inside a store you can expect a burglary tools misdemeanor charge and confiscation of the key at the least

Ok, I have an active dealer code figured out. You're going to need to take a pen and paper with you out to the car.

1) Go out to your car, and put the key to the 'on' position (not run). When the radio turns on, press and hold #2 and #3. After about ten seconds, three numbers will appear on the screen. Take your time and write these down.

2) After you have the first three numbers, press and release the AM/FM button. Three more numbers will appear on the screen. Write these down.

3) With your new-found 6-digit code, go inside and call 1-800-537-5140. It's just an electronic answering machine. Once the guy finishes talking, press 202108, followed by the *Asterisk* button (not pound).

4) He'll then tell you to enter in your 4- or 6-digit code, followed by the star/asterisk again. So, type in the numbers you got out of your radio, and hit star/asterisk.

5) He'll then tell you your 4-digit unlock code. Write it down.

It might never work again, but the worst thing to do is to try and use it because if any charge goes through then it will fry it. If possible remove the battery, either way put the fob in a baggy or bowl that's filled with rice, this will remove all the moisture. Leave it in there for at least 24 hours.

You can also remove the battery and spray inside with an electronic cleaner which will remove the moisture.

I have the same problem and have been serching for an answer for two months.What I found out today the anti-thief system is tied into the radio. A professional installer has a by-pass kit[w/thin gauge wire]. My concern is what to bo about the key lock cylinder? If I still need to buy a a dealer cylinder, I found prices for aboyut $250.00 w/o installation. So if your Tanoe has a reasonable priced cylinder and sensor[at any local parts store,] I'd replace those items. For me I'm going to use a push button to start the car untile I find a used cylinder lock and ignition switch.Hope this is of some help to you, aagsr

The fuse box on an Infinity G35 is located under the dash, near the hood release. It contains most of the fuses for the vehicle's electrical system.

You may ned to adjust the sensitivity of the motion detector. The wind is probably blowing, or a cat is walking across the car and causing the alarm to activate.

my camaro was doing the same thing and i found a bad ground. check and clean all cassis grounds

Sit in the driver's seat and lock all the doors.

Unlock and open the driver's door.

Insert the key into the ignition and remove it (don't turn it...just remove it).

Using the MANUAL lock switch on the driver's door, lock and unlock the door 5 times.

Close the door.

Open the door.

Lock and unlock the driver's door 5 times (I'm almost certain you use the MANUAL lock switch again, but if this sequence fails to work, try again with the power switch).

Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ON" position.

Remove the key.

The driver's door will now lock and unlock itself one time.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob for at least 1 second.

Close the driver's door.

Open the driver's door.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob for at least one second.

Close the driver's door.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob. The door will lock.

Press and hold the "LOCK" button on the key fob again. The door will unlock.

You should be all set.

I am researching this myself due to a faulty alarm that keeps me from starting my own car. As soon as I get the answer I'll pass it along.

Newer vehicles come with "Smart" Keys, these keys have a small chip built into them. A dealer or true Lock smith can look up the vehicles VIN and contact the manufacturer to get the codes to program into the chip to make their key act like the original. If the car does not use a smart key, the alarm should have a remote that came with the car, it should be able to deactivate the alarm, if not it's battery may be dead, and can be replaced. If you want to totally disable the alarm, you can either remove the alarm module if it is an "After Market" type, but if it is truly factory equipment, it will be integrated with the body computer, and removal is not an option. I hope this helps; Phill

notified colonists of the approach of British troops

check the lines that run to the sensors for a short. the trunk and hood usually have a switch and the doors are usually hooked to the dome light circuit. if you have a motion sensor try lowering the sensitivity

The blinking alarm light on the instrument cluster can indicate a few different issues. It may signify a malfunction in the vehicle's alarm system, such as a faulty sensor or wiring problem. Alternatively, it could be a reminder of a security feature, such as key fob detection or an unarmed alarm system. If the light persists without any alarms, it's advisable to consult the vehicle's manual or a professional mechanic for diagnosis.

I had a similar problem when I first got my Avenger. My remote was not working, so everytime I locked the door ( while open)the alarm would arm. This is the trick: Lock the door when it's closed, don't lock it when it's open otherwise the alarm will go off.

OR

You can disarm the alarm by unlocking the trunk with the key. I learned of this from a Dodge dealership. Had issues with the remote and once you lock the car from the inside or out it is armed. I ran into times where i would lock the door after getting in then once i started the car alarm would go off or once locked you cannot open the door from the inside or alarm will go off.

When you turn the ignition, Tahoe trys to start, but cuts out. Security light flashes. The security system opens and lock doors and is connected to the horn. How do we get this car to start?

We could not reset by holding the lock and unlock buttons at the same time for 7 seconds, nothing happened with the door locks. New battery replaced in remote unit.

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Here's what I do that works for me: put the key in and turn it to the accessory position, but don't start the car. Wait about 12 minutes. Start the car - it should work. (Sometimes I put the parking brake on to kill the headlights and prevent unnecessary drain on my battery while the key is in the ignition.)

YES! I have one. Its just the remote start manual correct, cuz the 560xv is the remote start and alarm model.

try turning the ignition on(leaving vehicle off) and press the manual override button that is installed inside the vehicle once(if not, press the button keep it press and turn on the igniion).the light should go off. and you'll be set.

In order of complexity:

As long as you don't allow your kids to play with the remote, since, if you

read your owners manual, one of the features is a 'panic' mode....

We'll assume that since you're here searching for an answer, you're smarter

than that.

Either the battery in your remote control is going dead or the remote itself

needs it's push button switches cleaned, usually with a decent electronics

cleaner that doesn't attack plastic.

In the meantime, remove the battery from the remote to stop 'falsing' @

the truck anti-theft unit and use the key to unlock the drivers door.

If removing the battery from the remote stops all the weird alarm behavior

you've found your problem. There's also the possibility that the circuit board

in the remote was stressed after one too many battery replacements

and solder connections are starting to come loose. You know, worn out?

Next, clean your trucks' battery terminals/battery posts! Dirty power connections play

havoc especially with the factory alarm. But it'll mess up your ECM (Engine

control module) also and give you terrible fuel mileage, to boot!

If deactivating the remote (usually does in 80-90% of cases) doesn't work

and the truck anti-theft unit keeps 'falsing', you're going to have to refer to the

service manual to 'massage' the connector on the anti-theft unit, which is the second

most common problem with these units.

Personally, I pack the cable end of the connector with silicon spark plug boot grease

which allows the individual connectors in the block to float and make better connections since the silicon is electrically neutral and doesn't attract dust. This is not

referenced or recommended in any way by Nissan, but my experiences have

proven me correct, at least on my own 2000 4x4 Crewcab.

Finally, if all else fails, unplug the anti-theft unit or replace it.

In most cases, you'll find replacing the unit doesn't fix the problem. It's

located above in one of the mentioned items, or a bad detector (switch, probably

dirty) in the truck door/body.

Hope this helps. Use it as general guide.

-Ric

you have a black box when you trace the wires back when you get to the box on the left will be four black connectors disconnect them then loop the first two then the second two and disconnect the rest and away you go

Insert the key as normal, but do not turn key all the way. Stop at "acc" accessory, wait no less than 10 min. (I waited 12 once). From "acc" you should be able to start the vehicle. This is called a Passkey re-learn procedure. Basically resetting the computer to recognize your encoded key. Dealerships can hit you hard if they convince you that a scanner is needed!