Alternators

It is located in the front passenger side of the vehicle at the top. It will be mounted with one black bracket at the top and two bolts at the bottom. It is at the highest point of anything else connected to the belts.

The voltage regulator is NOT built in the alternator, it is part of the ECM, that is the Engine Control Module. The module (computer) monitors the charging system and signals the alternator how much voltage to send it to keep the system working properly. the voltage regulator is built in to the alternator

You blew the voltage regulator. Depending on the model, it is either a separate component or located inside of your alternator. Based on your problem, I would guess you need a new alternator. Replace it and your car will be fine.

Failure of bearing may be due to : (1) Over Load (2) High Friction or Low/correct Lubricity (3) High/Low temp. uses (4) Manufacturing defect in alloy (5) Wrong set being used at wrong place

1) Disconnect negative battery cable. Jack up right front of car. Be sure to protect yourself with jackstands and rear wheel chocks. Safety first! 2) Remove the engine undercover (plastic under engine protector) on the right side 3) Remove the right front wheel. 4) remove the right hand side inspection cover inside the wheel well. (I did not say this was a simple job.) 4a) Optional: Curse Nissan engineers for lack of foresight in maintenance. 5) Loosen the belt idler pulley (center of the pulley itself, I think its 14mm, but Do NOT loosend the bracket bolt) 6) Loosen the idler pulley tension (large, vertical nut above the idler pulley) 7) remove the belt. 8) replace with new belt. Install is opposite of removal. You may have to wiggle a bit to slip it on correctly, but be patient, it will go. To replace alternator: 9) get your butt under the car, fully supported on jackstands, and remove the 4 Air conditioner bolts 10)Slide the A/C compressor forward (don't drop it on your head!) 11) Disconnect the alternator harness connector (This may be tricky to do while mounted. If so, then with the help of a friend, remove the alternator following the steps below and remove the connection after the alternator is loose. DO NOT let the alternator hang by the wiring harness connections.) 12) remove the wiring harness bracket from the alternator. 13) Remove the alternator upper and lower bolts. Slide Alternator down and forward to remove. 14) Install is opposite of removal. Good Luck!

First you back off the stud at the top of the alternator, than at the back of the alternator there is an adjuster tensioner bolt has to be loosened, then you need to loosen the power steering pump (3 bolts), then remove power steering belt, then remove alternator belt, then to install new belt do the same except in reverse order.... (found out the hard way.)

go to Oreilly auto parts or other part store. Buy a Hanes manual specifically for that van and read the step by step instructions. For about $16 it will tell you how to fix anything on your van in simple and easy to read instructions.

Depends on the year, make, model, and engine size. They can run anywhere from $30 to several hundred.

Typical alternator with internal voltage regulator will be about 80$, But when you return old one you get $20 back. So if returned, about $60 (give-or-take $10).

This doesn't apply in all cases, obviously; the make and model of the vehicle is a factor. Those are fairly reasonable prices for the part itself assuming the vehicle isn't an antique or something where the part may have to be custom-made.

Go to autozone.com and enter truck info.,year make, model and engine size,then join to register to where you can use there repair guides.Look up alternator ,then to right of screen, click on repair guide and it will show and tell you how to replace.

I could give you a more specific answer if you told me which engine your car has, but hopefully this will work:

1. Disconnect the battery ground. Use gloves to keep from getting any acid on your skin.

2. Take note of the routing of the serpentine belt and release the tensioner, move the belt out of the way.

3. Disconnect the wires from the alternator.

4. Remove the bolts that hold the alternator in and lift it out.

Reverse the procedure to put it back.

Start by moving the power steering reservoir out of the way. Disconnect the battery and then remove the wires from the alternator. Take the tension out of the tensioning pulley and remove the belt from the alternator. Remove the bolts from alternator, you may have to take the top mounting bracket off of the engine. The hardest part I found was to get the alternator out after everything was unbolted. My brother-in-law the mechanic came over and advised me to put a floor jack under the motor (use a block of wood to protect the oil pan etc.). Remove the bolt in the engine mount and raise the engine with the floor jack until there is space to bring the alternator out of its hiding place. Bring it straight out from the front of the engine (front being the passenger side of the car. It might be easier to raise the engine and then take out the alternator, but I didn't have the opportunity to try that. But it's definitely easier to put the replacement in with the engine still raised. I spent all day trying to figure it out, after my brother-in-law helped me with the engine jacking, it took about 20 minutes to complete the job.

I've got the V6 and I didn't need to lift the engine, just remove the radiator fan directly in front of the alternator. The fan has 2 screw bolts(10mm) on top, 1 on bottom(which I could just manage to access from the top with a deep socket), unplug the wires and you can lift it out of the way. This gives you enough clearance to remove the alternator (be careful not to ding your radiator though). Also, I didn't relized that the tensioner pulley was a spring-loaded type...I've never seen one till now. Just put a wrench on the middle of the pulley and you can adjust it to move the alternater back in place. Another tip, since you're replacing the alternator, might as well replace the belt too. Good luck. 2hours - not hard, just hard to get to till you figure out what items you need to move out of the way.

If this is the LX or EX (4 cylinder)

1) Disconnect the battery cable (*).

2) Remove the green connector on the back of the alternator and the single wire (to help ensure you don't loose the nut, screw it back on the terminal).

3) Loosen the power steering pump - slip the belt off and then push the pump up out of the way. You do not need to remove the pump.

4) Remove the lower alternator bolt.

5) Loosen the upper alternator bolt.

6) Remove the tension bolt.

7) Slip the belt off the alternator pulley.

8) Remove the upper alternator bolt.

9) Grab hold of the alternator pull it out. You may need to move it up and down and wiggle it slightly to get it out.

Installation is in the reverse order. Be sure to set the proper belt tension on the alternator and power steering pump. Check the belt tension the next time you fill up for gas and adjust if needed.

Total time to R&R the alternator should be under an hour.

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Looking at the alternator with the pulley facing you, the right mounting hole (where the large upper alternator bolt slips into) is a bushing. Carefully take some channel lock pliers and push it in so it's flush. This will help make installing it easier. As you tighten the upper and lower bolts, it will slide this bushing into proper position.

(*) = If your radio has a security code, be sure you know what it is before you pull the battery cables! If you have access to a battery charger, it may not be a bad time to re-charge the battery while you are R&R'ing the alternator. I would suggest that if you do elect to recharge the battery to take the battery out of the car.

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Email me if you have questions; rob@crxownersclub.com

while i was driving my car shuts off at nite while the lights are on, and i got it started back up and shuts off and comes back on

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If you have a bad alternator it can cause starting problems. More likely because you were driving and not charging the battery, while draining it. The alternator re-charges while you drive. When you turned it off & came back the next day there was not enough juice.

release the belt tension at the auto tensioner remove the belt at the alternator only remove the three holddown bolts using a 10 mm socket and ratchet remove the battery wire in back of alternator using a small pick remove the remaining wiring harness if needed remove the pulley to install reverse the above procedure forgot to mention remove the positive connection at the battery

A 95 LeSabre, with the factory alternator, would typically have one larger wire to the back of the unit, then a regulator plug on the side. The large wire is the battery connection, and is usually connected, using a fusible link, to the battery connection at the starter. The regulator connection I couldn't say for sure without the wiring diagram for the vehicle, but usually one wire always has voltage, and the other has voltage when the ignition key is turned on.

in the 98 model you have to find the tensioner pully (the one that doesn't look like it actually does anything). it's the one that keeps your belt tight to run your accessories i.e. a/c, alternator/ blah blah. find the right size socket for the front nut in the center of the pulley in the front, and torque it counter-clockwise? one way or another. when you turn it the right way the pulley will actually dip down and release tension on the belt (don't be scared to put a little weight into it). once the tensioner is depressed pull the belt off the rest of the pulleys. well if you don't know what an alternator looks like look for a cylindrical housing with a pulley facing toward the front of the car with slits going all around the circumference of the back of the cylinder. poor description but hopefully helps. anyways... find the 2 mounting bolts and remove. 1 will be for locking the tension after the belt is reinserted. replace. tension pulley down, belt back on, and tension pulley up. done

I use the public library. They have an entire section of automotive reference books including professional manual with wiring diagrams that are much better than those found in do-it-yourself manuals.

Here are some few more steps, in addition to the previously mentioned steps, that could help you in your repalcement:

1. Open the hood and locate your vehicle's alternator.

2. Using your digital multi-meter, check the battery voltage. A dead battery will usually have less than 9 volts. This would not be enough power to start most vehicles.

3. To verify that your alternator is bad, make sure your battery is fully charged and can pass a load test.

4. With the good battery installed, connect your digital multi-meter across the battery terminals with the engine turned off. A good battery should read between 12-13 volts.

5. Start your engine and read the digital multi-meter's output. The voltage should rise near 13.5-14.5 volts.

6. Using an open end wrench, disconnect the battery's negative cable

7. Disconnect the power and ground wires on the back of the alternator paying close attention to where each wire connects. Disconnect the wiring harness connector.

8. Loosen the alternator bracket bolts, and alternator adjusting bolts or alternator belt tensioner so that you can remove the alternator drive belt.

9. Using the proper size socket and ratchet, remove the alternator mounting bolts, spacer (if equipped), adjusting bolt, lower pivot bolt (if equipped), and the alternator.

10. Install new alternator.

11. Using the proper size socket and ratchet, loosely install the alternator mounting bolts, spacer (if equipped), adjusting bolt and lower pivot bolt (if equipped).

12. Install the alternator belt.

13. Pull the alternator until the alternator belt is tight.

14. Tighten the alternator mounting bolts while gently moving the alternator unit to achieve proper alternator belt tension.

15. Reinstall the power and ground wires to alternator. Install the wiring harness connector.

16. Push down in the middle of the alternator belt to check belt tension. If the alternator belt moves more than a half an inch, it is too loose, adjust the alternator belt to proper tension before proceeding to next step.

17. Now that the alternator belt has been installed and adjusted, reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check the battery voltage to verify proper alternator charging.

18. Turn off the engine and recheck the alternator belt tension. Readjust the alternator belt tension if needed.

Disconnect the battery. Then unplug the alternator and take the belts off. Unbolt it. Put a new one back on. Bolt it in. Put belts back on. Plug it back in. Reconnect the battery. Viola! Replaced alternator.

On the 4 cylinder engine, there is an belt tensioner right under the alternator pulley and slightly back. It keeps spring loaded tension on the belt so that you don't have to ever adjust the belt tension. Put a 15mm wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt and push towards the back of the car. This will allow enough play in the belt that it can be slipped off the pulley. Be careful when replacing that the grooves are properly seated in all the pulleys or the belt can be destroyed in very short order.

The V-6 engine is probably similar.

Good luck!

Remove wiring harnesses, unbolt it, remove from engine. Install new alternator, apply tension using bar, bolt it, hookup wiring harnesses.

The easiest way is to take it to a parts store where most of them will check them out free. It also helps if we know what kind of car you have. GoodluckJoe

turn your head lights on and try to start it if the headlights go out its more than likely your battery if they stay bright or barely dim its your starter

try the lights, do they turn on? if yes, then it probably isn't the battery. if its the starter motor, you should hear a loud clicking sound from the engine when you turn the key in the ignition. if this is the problem, turn the car off, open the door, stand on the sill at the side of the car while holding the edge of the roof and rock the car. if the car starts after this - its your starter.

If your starter was bad your car would not even crank. If its your battery the starter will click repeatedly.

96 grand Cherokee doesnt have a fan belt, its a serpentine belt. And if you look down to the right of the fan there is a pully which acts as the tensioner, youll use a socket to loosen it up and then youll be able to slide the old belt off. Keep the box from the new belt so you can see how the new belt loops around each pulley. Be sure to tighten the belt pretty tight so it has minimal play or youll get some sqeaking whenever you run your AC.

Below is what I did on my 2002 Stratus 2.4L.

Note: This is a description of how I chose to repair my vehicle and should not be taken as me advising anyone in any way on how or whether they manage to repair their own vehicles.

You have to remove the passenger tire and wheel wall to do it.

1) Engaged parking brake, loosened lugs on passenger front tire.

2) Jacked-up and placed jack-stand.

3) Removed piece of black under-carriage which surrounds the oil filter and attaches to front bumper. There are at least 10 plastic push-pins to remove and I managed to destroy half of them in the process.

4) Positoned belt over lower pulleys and tensioner (as best as possible) then used a bungee to hold the top end of belt up while I worked under the car.

5) Used a 3/8 ratchet and inserted into square hole attached to the tensioner, disengaged the tensioner (moves clockwise) then used a brace to keep the ratchet handle in that position.

6) From top, removed bungee and finished placing belt over alternator, checked the position of entire belt, reengaged the tensioner, and replaced wall and wheel.

on a 2000 v6 Astro you need to disconnect negative side to battery, remove the air filter housing by loosening the ring clamps to the throttle body, snap off cover, lift out air filter, pull entire unit up off pegs, then remove upper half of fan shroud, theres 7 bolts holding it and they're 10mm. Move top hose out of way before pulling up, it has a couple rubber things holding it it needsto clear. Then put the end of a socket extenion without a socket on it into the square hole below idler where belt is at your extreme left when facing engine, attach a ratchet to it and a bar for leverage and pull and belt will come off. Same thing when you put it back on. Change it if its been on a year or two. There are two bolts at bottom of alternator 13mm i think, and one on backside you'll have to remove the doghouse to get to. A couple of electrical connections back there also.

you must lift up the civic with the driver side tire off then u gotta get the axle loose u might need to remove the whole left side suspention to free up the axle then u gotta get the alternator loose and remove it and then reverse.

/ The alternator can be removed by lifting front of car and driver side suspention lowered so that tire is just touching, then the alternator will have clearance to slide by driver side axle from under vehicle without removing any suspention. My son and I just did this so it should work on yours. (Aug 21, 2008)

first remove positive battery cable from battery. Then remove front passenger tire, then remove strut and hub, then remove cv axle undo two mounting bolts from bottom, once this is done access to three mounting bracket bolts. to remove mounting bracket then slide alternator btwn frame and engine and replace, have fun this takes avg 4-5 hours!

i found out that if you take out the oil filter u can get to the bolts with easy access. it beats taking of the drive shaft. once the bracket is off you can take it out from the top. it would be easier if you unbolt the tension assembly. it took me about 2 hours to do all this and put back together. $20 extra bucks for the oil beats the extra hours i would have to put into working on the car. have fun :)

OOOOOOOORRRRRRRRR,,,,,,,,

It is possible to remove it from the top of the engine. I know this becasue i just accomplished this in under 3 hours. Start to finish with a coffee break in between. If you want to know exactly how i did it feel free to email me atomic_aura@hotmail.com 03 ford escape v6