Brake Pads and Rotors

You more than likely have a defective unit. i own a '93 new yorker and my abs lights were lit on my dash, a few days later my brakes completely failed. ABS HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT CAN EXPERIENCE EXCESSIVE BRAKE ACTUATOR PISTON SEAL WEAR CAUSING PUMP-MOTOR DETERIORATION.

there is an open recall on this part, i got it replaced for free (a several thousand dollar job) less the cost of a diagnostic computer fee. here's a link with more info: http://www.motortrend.com/cars/1991/chrysler/new_yorker/recalls/index.html http://www.internetautoguide.com/auto-recalls/09-int/1993/chrysler/new-yorker/index.html

although the model year is '91 for the link ik believe they were still using the same abs assembly in 93. hope this helps.

Does the steering wheel shake worse when you step on the brakes? If braking does not cause the steering wheel shaking you probably just have an out of balance wheel, a bent rim or a faulty tire.

assuming you are asking if they stop better than the older semi-metallic pads, or even semi-ceramic, yes they are designed to stop better. although they tend to be squeakier

sounds like brake fluid level is still too low or the switch on the handbrake is faulty causing the light to stay on.

-----

It could also indicate that your rotors are wearing thin.

Under normal conditions you should get about 40,000 to 45,000 miles on the front. Generally you will wear out 2 sets on the front before you wear out 1 on the rear. This means do not rest your foot on the brake pedal or make hard stops.

Remove wheels Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place Loosen 2 caliper mounting bolts Remove one of them to allow caliper to swing off the rotor Remove outer brake pad Use "C" Clamp and inner pad to retract piston into caliper body--(Front only) Rear is threaded and special tool is needed (Not expensive available at Sears or auto part store) Replace inner and outer pads Re-install caliper and mounting bolts

PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE

Yes, some rotors can be turned if there is enough material to work with. I would check my local parts store and check the price of a new one cause sometimes the cost is about the same.

I had to use a grinder and cut two sets off. I used the edge of the grinder and scord a line across the face (entier with) almost all the way through the slammed with heavy hammer till it broke loose.

on most engines the minimum valve margin is 0.03 in. that is about the thickness of a US dime, or 1/32 of an inch. Always check service information for the exact specifications for the engine being serviced

The person who was following too closely to stop before hitting the car ahead.

A problem has been detected with your Antilock Brake System

It could be a fuse , a sensor , or some other problem

As long as the red " BRAKE " light in your dash is not on , you still have

" normal " brakes

Saudi Arabia

It really depends on how you drive, and under what conditions are where you are.

1. Do you stop and go in city driving where you always are hitting your breaks? Are you on dirt roads?

If so I would say from 50 to 60000 miles.

2. Do you drive on interstates or long drives on good highways distances?

Way over 10000 miles.

I drove 120+ miles a day to and from work, with 150,000miles on it and had almost 1/2 the pads left when I had to change them. The truck sat for almost a year as I had a stroke. 1 of the calipers stuck and wore 1 pad down to less than 10% left. I replaced the caliper and pads even though the ones on the other side were only showed about 50% wear. I also got over 100,000 miles on the tires. It is also very simple to install new pads on and cheep, unless you have let them go until you have metal to metal.

I have a service bulletin which covers the brake callipers but not the rotor replacement. If the calliper info would be helpful just post your email address or a hotmail location and I will upload the bulletin, it's a pdf file. Regards. Calliper servicing (front and rear)info can be found at this Russian site http://volkswagen.msk.ru/ I still could not find the rotor torque figures but they may also be there. Enjoy!

IF THEY ARE THE BACK PADS YOU NEED TO UNBOLT THE TWO STAR SHAPE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE CALIPER ON THEN IT IS EASYER TO UNCLIP HANDBRAKE CABLE FROM CALIPER MAKE SURE THAT YOU UNSCREW THE TOP OFF WERE YOU FILL THE BRAKE FLUID UNDER THE BONNET THEN WITH CALLIPER IN HAND YOU HAVE TO WIND PISTON IN NOT PUSH MOST TIMES YOU WILL FIND THAT YOU HAVE TO PUSH IT IN JUST UNTIL YOU FEEL IT OR SEE THE PISTON GOING IN AS YOU ARE TURNIG IT YOU CAN USE MOLE GRIPS TO TURN THE PISTON BUT PUT A CLOTH UNDER TEETH YOU DONT HAVE TO HAVE THEMM THAT TIGHT SOON AS THE PISTON IS IN FULLY REPLACE PADS PUT CABLE BACK ON DONE YOU CAN BUY TOOL FROM ANY MOTOR FACTOR TO SCREW PISTON BUT IT CAN BE DONE THIS WAY FRONT CALLIPERS JUST PUSH IN

You can expect to pay about $125 to $150 for parts depedning on the model of the car. The labor should go around another $50 to $75 unless there are some additional problems with the car.

Remove wheels

Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place

Remove caliper mounting bolts

Slide caliper off rotor

Use a "C" clamp to fully retract piston into caliper body

Replace inner and outer pads

Replace caliper

PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE

Just turn the key to on (second) position - where you see all the lights come on the dashboard and wait till the brake wear indicator light go off.

If you replaced the tripped brake wear sensor, the light will go off in about 10-15 seconds...

a volkswagen? . . . . . bout 10 minutes

Remove wheels Re-Install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place Remove caliper mounting bolts Slide caliper off rotor Compress piston into caliper body using a "C" clamp (front only) Rear pistons are threaded and require a special tool available at Sears or auto parts (not expensive) to compress piston in to caliper body Replace pads inner and outer Re-Install caliper REMEMBER TO PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE

Call Chevy dealer ask for the phone number for the 'Service Manual'.

Mine ran me about $120. About five or six books, eight inches high when stacked.

A rear brake diagram for this vehicle can be found in the cars maintenance manual and repair manual. Those can be bought at a local auto part store.

1. Prepare a clean, flat area for the wheel that you will be doing.

2. Loosen the wheel nuts. ( just get them to turn, don't unscrew yet )

3. Jack up this wheel. Place a jackstand in appropriate place. ( probably just to right or left of where the owners manual says to place the jack. )

DON'T RELY ON ONLY THE JACK ! !

4. Finish unscrewing the wheel nuts, and remove the tire.

5. The caliper is obvious - - it's the big metal "pincher" thing wrapped around the wheel disc.

6. Get an old coathanger, bend a solid hook in both ends, about 10 in. from hook to hook.

6. It's pretty easy to see the 2 large bolts on the back side ( toward the engine) of the caliper. Loosen preferably with a socket wrench. ( you will probably have to bang the arm of the socket wrench or regular wrench with a hammer to get the bolt started. This caliper has been bolted there for 4 years or so ? ) Remember to go counter-clockwise to UNSCREW these bolts. But this is CLOCKWISE from where you are ! ( facing the wheel from outside the car) AFTER these 2 bolts are loose enough to turn with your fingers, hook one end of the coat hanger somewhere above the disc/wheel, like on the upper suspension, etc.

7. These two bolts will come out easier if you hold the caliper with your other hand and sort of "wiggle" it. ( especially when the bolts are almost out ) DEFINITELY have a grasp on the caliper when you completely remove the bolts. DON"T let the caliper fall and hang by the rubber brake line, because this could damage, crack the brake line. Suspend the caliper by hooking it to the bottom hook of your coat hanger. This should be done so there is NO STRAIN on the rubber brake line.

8. The two brake pads are on the inside of the caliper, facing each other. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry them loose. They should slide toward the "open" space in the middle of the caliper and then come out fairly easily. Keep them to compare to your replacements, to verify they are correct.

9. There are two little " Y " springs that are BEHIND the pads. ( at least on the '96 Maxima there are ) Try to see how they are hooked in, but this may be difficult, as they may just drop or pop out when you remove the pads.

- - - Now you just put in the new pads, but here is where my knowledge gaps - - I don't exactly know how to put the little "Y" springs back ! ( I am in this process this morning - - so maybe I will finish this answer later ! ! - - - -

Rims get hot due to brakes getting heated. Most vehicles have disc brakes in the driver's side front. Disc brakes have 3 major parts, pads, calipers and disc rotors. If your brake pads have worn down you can be causing scrapes or scratches into the rotors. Heavily using the brakes can also cause the rotors and the pads to become "glazed" over due to heat.

A glazed rotor is one that appears smooth and glazed over. There are usually two reasons for glazing. The first is using cheap brake pads. Another reason is an excessive amount of heat between the pad and rotor.